Sun Destinations Blog - Page 101 of 117

Dec 05, 2014
Blog, Botswana, Camp Linyanti, Camp Savuti, Haina Kalahari Lodge, Nokana Safari Camp, The Week in Pictures, Umkumbe Safari Lodge Riverside, Uncategorized

Week in Pictures: Unexpected elephants, and more safari gold

Rhino having a rub. Image by Angele Rouillard.

Sometimes you see what you expect, sometimes something quite the opposite comes your way. While on safari with Camp Linyanti, we encountered so many elephants that we grew to expect them around every corner, but we had to stop and take a look at one particularly wrinkly old female. She didn’t have any tusks, and her ears were folded over, shapelessly hanging on each side of her head. She stared for a while and then shook her head at us, releasing dust from between these unfamiliar crevices. What a strange beauty she was…

An elephant out of the ordinary. This female elephant seemed to lack cartilage in her ears, and she also didn’t have any tusks, but her unusual features didn’t make her any less of an elephant, and she soon ordered us to get out of her way! Image by Chloe Cooper.

Odd ears, but no less confrontational. Image by Chloe Cooper.

At a buffalo carcass on the Linyanti swamps, a disturbing number of vultures and marabou storks gathered, waiting for their turn to feast on the remains of the beast. The lion standing guard gave them space when he lumbered off lazily to the water for a drink. Next to one very energetic sneeze, the walk to the water was about the most energetic thing he did in 3 days.

The scavengers gather at a lion kill site. Image by Chloe Cooper.

Bless you! Lion caught mid-sneeze in the Linyanti. Image by Chloe Cooper.

All puffed up. A Cape glossy starling visits guests at Camp Linyanti. Image by Chloe Cooper.

Further south from the Linyanti in the magnificent Chobe National Park, Camp Savuti produced great, grassy plains, fossilised trunks of trees, and muddy marshes that were celebrated by thousands of giraffe, birds, buffalo, and zebra. The sight of the Savuti brands itself in one’s mind, demanding to be remembered as one of the most wildly beautiful regions of Botswana.

A giraffe in the evening light. Image by Chloe Cooper.

A rufous-naped lark putting on a show in the Savuti. Image by Chloe Cooper.

Zebras come in the thousands in the Savuti. Image by Chloe Cooper.

A Savuti elephant profile. Image by Chloe Cooper.

A hamerkop struggles to swallow a frog in the Savuti marsh. Image by Chloe Cooper.

An exhausted pride of lions take advantage of the dappled shade in the Central Kalahari Game Reserve when we were visiting with Haina Kalahari Lodge. The second largest game reserve in the world, the Central Kalahari is largely unexplored and is home to some weird and wonderful desert-adapted species, living in peace in their pride lands, which is an arid dust-bowl until the arrival of the rains.

Nap time. Mother and cub enjoy a siesta. Image by Chloe Cooper.

Entertained by the butterflies. A pride of lions relaxes in the shade after a big meal in the Central Kalahari Game Reserve. Image by Chloe Cooper.

Haina Kalahari Lodge waterhole attracts all sorts of animals throughout the day and night. Here, a kudu and an impala pause in the sunlight. Image by Kevin MacLaughlin.

A northern black korhaan striking a pose. Image by Chloe Cooper.

Back in South Africa, Umkumbe Safari Lodge in the Sabi Sand has been showered with safari blessings. Guide and photographer, Angele Rouillard, sent us the following update from this past week:

We have been spoiled with a variety of sightings that have included new life, and the inevitable circle of life, both around and away from camp. General game has been somewhat sparse the last few days but of those sightings, the impala lambs and the warthog piglets have proved to be “ahhhhhh” moments for our guests! The sighting of the week, however, must be the large breeding herd of elephant that crossed in front of the lodge and delighted our guests for most of the afternoon. During the afternoon drive, we relocated the herd and they proceeded to come out of the bush ever so quietly to surround our vehicles and wow us into silence. Of course, no week would be complete without updating everyone on our predators. Although we experienced a 15 day leopard drought, we were treated to lions on kills, lions mating, lions calling and lions just being lions, as well as two fantastic cheetah sightings. Am happy to report that as of last night’s drive, the leopards have returned! Until next time, happy sightings!!! – Angele

A very young elephant moving with the herd. Image by Angele Rouillard.

A brown-headed parrot. Image by Angele Rouillard.

Elephant ivory. Image by Angele Rouillard.

A giraffe silhouette in the Kruger National Park.

A lion in the dark. Image by Mariana de Klerk.

Meanwhile, in the Kruger National Park, Nokana Safari Camp has also been enjoying their share of elephants. Paying no mind to the rules of the road, this big bull crossed in front of Nokana’s guests, providing wonderful photo opportunities and memories to last a lifetime. Yesterday, being International Cheetah Day, felt like an appropriate time to take guests to see cheetahs on foot. At Karongwe game reserve where Nokana conducts game drives, guests can get out on a guided walk to approach a pair of cheetah brothers in the wild.

Making an exit. An elephant heads for the bush after stopping traffic in the Kruger National Park with Nokana Safari Camp.

Spots in the grass. A cheetah chills out in the Kruger Park on International Cheetah Day yesterday.

Getting up close. Safaris with Nokana Safari Camp enjoy close encounters with cheetahs.

A giraffe silhouette in the Kruger National Park.

Lions on a kill charged by elephants at Camp Linyanti

Photographer, Kevin MacLaughlin, capturing footage of the elephants as they moved through our campsite at Camp Linyanti.

One muggy afternoon on the Linyanti swamps we set off for a routine game drive. We were spending 2 weeks making our way through some of the best wildlife zones in Botswana, and game drives had become something of a marvelous habit. Guests at Camp Linyanti are led by their guides in kitted out Land Cruisers, while their accommodation in permanent tented suites looks right out over the Linyanti swamps to the Caprivi Strip on Botswana’s northern border.

One of the 5 unique tented units at Camp Linyanti. Image by Kevin MacLaughlin.

Settling in at Camp Linyanti for the night. The deck that overlooks the swamps all the way to the Caprivi Strip. Image by Kevin MacLaughlin.

As the Sun Destinations media team, photographer Kevin MacLaughlin, and I stayed at the neighbouring campsite for a more rustic experience and for ease of access into the bush. This particular evening we had no tip-offs from passing motorists or safari guides in-the-know, so we headed out to see what we could find by chance. It didn’t take us long after leaving our spot at Camp Linyanti to come across elephants (it actually didn’t take us any time at all – the elephants were in our campsite). Once we had edged our way through the browsing herd we regained an unobstructed view of the treetops, and we saw they were sagging under the weight of vultures and marabou storks.

An elephant visitor at our campsite at Camp Linyanti. Out of frame are another 5 bulls that we had watched move through our camp and towards the water.

White-backed vultures giving the game away and leading us right to the kill.

Bush Signs 101 would tell you that where there are scavengers, there is prey. And where there is prey, there are predators. Our eyes lit up and our hearts swelled with anticipation at the idea of what predatory activity lay ahead. The Linyanti is an undiscovered and almost secretive part of the well-established Chobe National Park, so when we stumbled across one of the most magnificent lion sightings I’d ever seen, I felt well and truly in tune with the wild.

Our eyes fell from the scavenger-filled trees and landed upon the ground where a big, grubby male lion lay panting, directing an unwavering glare at our approaching vehicle. Just beside him was the maggot-filled cavity of a buffalo, buzzing with flies, and looking rather close to explosion. Much of the animal remained intact, however it was swollen to twice its size, and I entertained quite a genuine fear of it popping under pressure.

The face of gluttony. Image by Kevin MacLaughlin.

Our approach alerted this lazy lion and it gave us a look of warning. Image by Kevin MacLaughlin.

What a resplendent vision this was of Africa’s apex predator in a private part of Botswana’s most popular park, settled on the banks of a bird-laden swamp, and we had found him in ‘the golden hour’. To our utter delight, we saw on the right of us a second male lion, also panting lazily on the edge of the water. Trying to position ourselves upwind of the carcass and in the correct light for photographs of both lions was challenging, and in the end we suffered a bit for the cause. (Note to self: nose pegs are necessary safari items).

We spotted the second lion looking relaxed in the golden sunlight. Image by Kevin MacLaughlin.

The lion stays close to its prey as the sun sets on the Linyanti swamps.

As we sat (mouth-breathing) in between 2 massive, golden-maned male lions, we were surrounded by a variety of vultures and marabou storks, lurking at a safe distance and waiting for their chance at the buffalo carcass. Some white-backed vultures stood in hunched groups, while others were comfortable enough to lie down; hooded vultures with their pink and white faces perched on shady tree branches watching the lions’ movements carefully. Eventually, as the lion got up for a drink at the river, the birds moved in for a brief bite. We were so intrigued with the scene we had found ourselves in the middle of that it took us a while to notice that the elephants in the middle of the swamps were moving closer…

A hooded vulture bows slightly to the bigger white-backed vulture on the back of the buffalo kill. Image by Kevin MacLaughlin.

Hooded vultures claim their spot on the buffalo carcass as soon as its guardian has gone to drink. Image by Kevin MacLaughlin.

A loud, angry, trumpeting shriek came calling across the Linyanti, and the wildly flapping ears of 2 elephants grew bigger very quickly. They had spotted the lions, and they were not having them on their swampland. We watched the elephants determinedly make their way through the water (not without an amusing tumble into an unexpectedly deep pool) and emerge on our bank with every intention to chase the lions away. One remained, guarding the buffalo carcass, as the elephants focused on the brother they were closest too.

From across the Linyanti swamps, a pair of elephants comes running towards the lions. Image by Kevin MacLaughlin.

An elephant charges across the Linyanti swamps in the direction of the 2 male lions. Image by Kevin MacLaughlin.

Looking towards the danger as elephants come hurtling across the swamps towards them. Image by Kevin MacLaughlin.

Reaching the water, the elephant gets right in and crosses to get to the lion. Image by Kevin MacLaughlin.

Making a splash. Image by Kevin MacLaughlin.

The charging elephant hits a pothole and plunges into the water at full speed. Image by Kevin MacLaughlin.

The elephants arrive on our bank and one of the lions begrudgingly gets out of the way. Image by Kevin MacLaughlin.

Better get going! The lion finally decides its safest to move once the elephants make their approach. Image by Kevin MacLaughlin.

What an unbeatable performance of nature to be able to witness so exclusively. We knew the lions would still be there for the next couple of days – as they very rarely leave their meal for the ever-so-desperate vultures, hyenas and jackals. After a quick sundowner and some time for contemplation over the extensive marshland of the Linyanti, we made our way back to camp where a fire provided light that was fairly unnecessary under the bright light of an almost-full moon.

As the light fades, the marabou storks and vultures vacate the kill site to perch for the night.

The Week in Pictures: The birds, the bees, and the big things.

With such a diverse range of camps in various areas of pristine wilderness, its not surprising that the photography coming out of these areas each week is reliably great. The Okavango Delta, Chobe National Park, the Sabi Sand, and the Klaserie Private Nature Reserve have produced some fantastic footage lately, and photographers Em Gatland, Kevin MacLaughlin, and Jochen Van de Perre were around to capture some special moments with the beasts and the birds of Southern Africa. Take a look at this edition of the Week in Pictures!

nDzuti Safari Camp, Klaserie Private Nature Reserve, Greater Kruger

A giraffe embrace in black and white by Em Gatland. Taken at nDzuti Safari Camp in the Klaserie, Greater Kruger.

Big dagha-boy with a milky eye joining the action at the mud wallow at nDzuti. Image by Jochen Van de Perre.

Having a good scratch on a well used rubbing post. Image by Jochen Van de Perre.

A huge herd of elephants occupy the banks of the Klaserie River near nDzuti Safari Camp. Image by Jochen Van de Perre.

nThambo Tree Camp, Klaserie Private Nature Reserve, Greater Kruger

A grey heron chases an African spoonbill out of its dam. Image by Em Gatland.

A grey heron chases an African spoonbill out of its spot in Jason’s Dam near nThambo. Image by Em Gatland.

A leopard tortoise in detail. Image by Em Gatland.

An intense image of the Ross Pride lioness and her warthog kill by Em Gatland.

Blue waxbills and a green-winged pytilia enjoy nThambo’s bird bath. Image by Jochen Van de Perre.

Africa on Foot, Klaserie Private Nature Reserve, Greater Kruger

A young elephant photographed on its own by Em Gatland.

Perspective from the tracker’s seat on the Africa on Foot vehicle. Image by Em Gatland.

Ross Pride lioness looking more than satisfied with her impala kill. Image by Em Gatland.

Hiding rhino and an oxpecker. Image by Em Gatland.

Umkumbe Safari Lodge, Sabi Sand Wildtuin, Greater Kruger

Wild dogs at Umkumbe – a guest favourite! Image by Em Gatland.

A blue-headed agama – one of the most striking reptiles in the bush. Image by Em Gatland.

Scratching behind the ears. Image by Em Gatland.

A lion looking into the sunlight. Image by Em Gatland.

Camp Savuti, Savute Marsh, Chobe National Park

A black-backed jackal enjoying the sun in the Savute. Image by Kevin MacLaughlin.

A malachite kingfisher on the move. Image by Kevin MacLaughlin.

A typical Savute sight. Waterbucks on the yellow plains. Image by Kevin MacLaughlin.

Caught mid-yawn on a lazy morning in the Savute. Image by Chloe Cooper.

Camp Linyanti, Linyanti Swamps, Chobe National Park

A pearl-spotted owlet poses for a picture in the Linyanti. Image by Chloe Cooper.

Nose and toes. An elephant encounter in the Linyanti. Image by Chloe Cooper.

A crested barbet coming to visit at Camp Linyanti. Image by Chloe Cooper.

A lion and his meal on the banks of the Linyanti swamps. Image by Chloe Cooper.

Afrika Ecco Mobile Safaris, Okavango Delta

A white-backed vulture takes off from its perch to get its helping. Image by Em Gatland.

A hyena glances back before escaping with its prize from the kill. Image by Em Gatland.

An strikingly coloured African green pigeon feasting on some wild figs. Image by Kevin MacLaughlin.

An elephant silhouette. Image by Em Gatland.

Mapula Lodge, Okavango Delta

Squacco heron in flight over the Okavango Delta. Image by Chloe Cooper.

Action shot as the lion rose from the sun-drenched airstrip in search of a shady spot to rest. Image by Chloe Cooper.

New, green grass replaces the moribund after a wildlife and the rains in the Delta. Image by Chloe Cooper.

A lazy day for giraffes in the hot Okavango Delta. Image by Chloe Cooper.

It all comes down to excellent guides! A review of our Klaserie camps.

Jochen and Mira at nDzuti Safari Lodge in full view of the elephants at the waterhole.

Our very frequent guests, Jochen and Mira, return again and again to nThambo Tree Camp, Africa on Foot, and nDzuti Safari Camp. What is it that makes these camps so special for them, and why do they leave with happy hearts and a renewed appreciation for the Lowveld every time? Jochen’s latest message to us held the details, as well as some superb photographs from their recent trip! Enjoy.

Hey Chloe,

Your question is a very good one. What makes us return to the Lowveld camps each time? We’ve been there so many times now that we have lost count. So we should be able to come up with a swift answer right?

Well, not really. At first, the best we could come up with is “it’s complicated”. Like the dreaded Facebook status! So we had some thinking to do.

Mira said, “it’s the accommodation”. She was referring to the amazing semi-canvas, semi-wooden huts they have at nThambo, which – granted – are as close to perfection as a room can get for us, avid ecotourists. But then I reminded her that we’ve been to camps with similar rooms, and those camps are not on our list of favourite camps.

“How about the food then?” Well ok, there’s something to say about Gertie’s amazing cooking skills and enthusiasm at Africa On Foot, for example. But no one comes to the bush just for the meals, right?

Over the weekend we’ve been making suggestions to each other about what the reason could be for why we keep coming back to Sun Destinations camps. We also reviewed ideas like, “the atmosphere in camp”, “the amazing tracking skills of guys like Isaac at nThambo and Enoch at Africa On Foot”, and of course “the animals”. While those are all perfectly good answers, individually, none of them quite cover the load.

Ross Pride lionesses are sighted frequently at nThambo and Africa on Foot. Image by Jochen Van de Perre.

On top of all the above, there’s one other factor that’s essential for us, and that is the quality of guiding. Obviously this should be very important for any person going on safari, but it’s only when you’ve been to a few different camps that you start noticing little differences. Any guide can get you close to some magnificent animals, but the encounter can be very different depending on the guide.

Image by Jochen Van de Perre.

Let me illustrate with an example; at nThambo we were on a game drive with our guide, Matt, and we spotted some elephants a bit far off the road and in rather thick bush. We were eager to get close to them, but Matt just watched them for a minute or two, and then drove on, saying, “we’ll catch these guys later”. So our game drive continued. We saw plenty of other nice things (including the Ross lion pride), and after an hour or so Matt decided to stop for a morning coffee break at a small dam. The dam was deserted, so I asked him, “why here?” And Matt just said, “you’ll see in a few minutes”.

Image by Jochen Van de Perre.

We had forgotten the elephants by then, but lo and behold, all of a sudden there they were! One by one they popped out of the bush, and started to drink from the water. Matt had known, an hour beforehand, where the elephants were going. And he had positioned us at the other side of the dam to give us a perfect view.

Jochen captures the scene as nThambo guests enjoy their morning coffee at the waterhole with the elephants. Perfectly executed by guide, Matt Roberts. Image by Jochen Van de Perre.

Matt just went to stand sowewhere in between us and the elephants for a bit, as to tell them to what side of the dam they should keep. The elephants were very relaxed, and seemed to understand him perfectly. As a result, we had the most amazing sighting ever, much better than if we would have approached them in that thick bush where the were an hour prior. And I was able to take perfect shots of drinking elephants, from the waterline.

Matt, enjoying this special moments with the elephants. Image by Jochen Van de Perre.

Elephants captured from the waterline. Image by Jochen Van de Perre.

But perhaps best of all was the little bundle of joy that trotted into view, accompanied by his mom, as one of the last elephants. I’m not even sure we would have seen him in that thick bush. Cuteness overload!

The little bundle of joy experimenting with its newly discovered trunk. Images by Jochen Van de Perre.

Two young elephants interacting in front of nThambo guests on game drive. Image by Jochen Van de Perre.

It’s these kinds of encounters that we want to come home with. It’s this kind of experience that keeps us coming back, time and again.

And I’m glad to be able to announce that we’ve added another great guide to our list; Brett at nDzuti Safari Camp! I don’t know how the Sun Destinations camps do it, but they seem to have a sixth sense for excellent guides.

Brett gave us similar experiences to Matt, one of which was as close to perfection as possible. He spotted a rhino with a very young calf, but instead of approaching her at that time (which would have been from the wrong direction both in terms of the wind an the sun), he decided to drive around a whole block and wait for them, while giving them both time to relax.

Rhino and calf at nDzuti. Image by Jochen Van de Perre.

We spent a long time with them, and in the end the calf was so relaxed that it looked as if he wanted to play with us.

So, if you’re asking us, “what makes you go back to your favourite camps in the Lowveld time after time?” then the best answer we can come up with is this:

Most important is the excellent guiding and tracking skills of guys like Matt and Brett, combined with all the other factors mentioned above, which turn a lodge into a well-oiled machine.

Without further ado, here’s the “perfect camp formula” we’ve come up with:

…where…

qG = quality of guiding

qT = quality of tracking

aV = appropriate vehicle (don’t put us in a vehicle with a roof!)

pA = presence of animals

qA = quality of accommodation

nF = non-fenced camp

qF = quality of food

cA = camp atmosphere

Hope this helps!

Mira & Jochen

PS. You might wonder what that “cb” at the end is. It’s chilli bites. There must be chilli bites!

Zebras in the sunset shadows. Image by Jochen Van de Perre.

Old buffalo bull having a good old time at a mud bath near nDzuti. Image by Jochen Van de Perre.

Week in Pictures: All sorts of everything wild!

An African wild dog strolls in front of the Umkumbe Safari Lodge game viewer. Image by Em Gatland.

This week we’ve got a roundup of incredible images from Botswana and from Kruger where our exceptional camps nestle in their wild homes. Surrounded by the African bush, everyday is brimming with opportunity to witness something phenomenal. It is the new season of rain, and the heat is rising for summer, and with the new flourish of greenery come the migratory birds. Animal activity is changing, and there is a sense of celebration in the air. Take a look at what superb wildlife sightings have come out of our camps this week!

In Botswana’s Okavango Delta, Mapula Lodge is located on its very own hippo-filled lagoon. After flying in with Major Blue Air‘s 6 seater plane, we enjoyed a series of game drives and a cruise on the mokoro, which resulted in some fantastic game viewing. The first morning began with a lone male lion on the airstrip – a sighting we enjoyed for a luxuriously long time as he rose and eloped into the bush. Game drives were full of elephants, giraffes, and general game, like the zebras (pointed out by Mapula’s guide, Albert) and the buffaloes whose united interest in us made for a good capture.

A sun-bathing lion lies confidently between Mapula’s 2 game viewers on a morning game drive. Image by Kevin MacLaughlin.

The Okavango Delta is brimming with game as the rains come down on Botswana. Image by Kevin MacLaughlin.

Chobe National Park's precious Linyanti swamp is home to countless buffaloes, often the lions' first choice of prey.

The Delta is home to countless buffaloes, often the lions’ first choice of prey.

Great egret and its reflection in the Okavango Delta. Captured on a mokoro excursion with Mapula Lodge. Image by Kevin MacLaughlin.

Haina Kalahari Lodge lies on the fence line of the Central Kalahari Game Reserve in its own wildlife concession. The fence does not mean anything to the lions however, as we witnessed a huge male effortlessly squeeze himself through the wires! A fantastic kill site was the highlight of our game drive, and we got to watch a pride of 3 lionesses, 6 cubs and one male feed off a kudu bull. That night we set off after dinner for a night drive in search of some nocturnal activity. We were very lucky to see a genet, a pair of spotted eagle owls, and the precious bat-eared fox.

A lioness growls at one of the cubs as she protects her share of the kudu. Image by Kevin MacLaughlin.

A feast for the whole family. Lion cub feeding on the ribcage of a kudu bull. Image by Kevin MacLaughlin.

Two bloody lion cubs (out of a total of 6 at this sighting) at Haina Kalahari Lodge. Image by Kevin MacLaughlin.

The elusive desert-dweller, the bat-eared fox, spotted on night drive with Haina Kalahari Lodge. Image by Kevin MacLaughlin.

Headed for Camp Linyanti, we drove through the marvellous Chobe National Park, famously known as the home of elephants. Before we had entered the park we had had elephants crossing the road in front of us, alongside giraffe and zebra. A truly wild country, and we were entering its oldest and most diverse park. After arriving at our campsite, neighbouring the permanent 5-bedroomed Camp Savuti, we pitched tents and said hello to the elephants, which were ambling passed our braai place and headed towards the Linyanti swamp in front of us. We set out on game drive and saw some incredible things! An African rock python was seen strangulating its meal and thereafter, eating it; plus, 2 male lions were panting on the green banks of the swamp with their buffalo kill, while a couple of elephants were angrily making their way over to the lions to chase them away. What a game drive that was!

One incredible sighting at Camp Linyanti – an African rock python devours the last mouthful of his meal. It is still a debate as to whether it made a meal of a squirrel or a mongoose. Image by Kevin MacLaughlin.

A pair of elephants hurtle across the Linyanti swamp, targeting 2 male lions relaxing with their buffalo kill on the bank. Image by Kevin MacLaughlin.

The lion looks warily at the oncoming elephants just before he decides he better get out the way and vacates his spot in the sun. Image by Kevin MacLaughlin.

A hooded vulture grabs its opportunity while the lion is having a drink nearby and lands on the buffalo carcass with the intention to feed. Image by Kevin MacLaughlin.

Afrika Ecco Mobile Safaris, conducting water-based and on-foot tours in the Okavango Delta, takes adventurous guests into the wildest regions of this wetland. You are always likely to see things other guests may not, as you delve deeper into the details and discover a new world of wilderness. Here are some of the sights stumbled upon recently with these passionate, Setswana guides.

A western green snake gliding through the Okavango waters. Image by Kevin MacLaughlin.

The endangered wattled cranes, seen here looking elegant in the Delta with Afrika Ecco Safaris.

A pair of male red-billed spur fowls have it out on the road in the Okavango Delta.

A marabou stork surveys the area in the Okavango Delta. Image by Kevin MacLaughlin.

Meanwhile, back at the ranch, the Greater Kruger Park has been a hive of activity lately. The Klaserie’s Ross Pride lionesses have made numerous kills, all in view of guests at nThambo Tree Camp and Africa on Foot. The camps are full and guides are busy showing their visitors just what Africa is all about. Elephants are everywhere with lots of young babies to ‘ooh’ and ‘ash’ over, while guests have also been treated to a young rhino calf, and some exceptional bird life.

Always a wonderful sight. A young rhino sticks close to its mother and watches Africa on Foot’s game viewer as Em Gatland captured a beautiful shot.

Happy guests in a full vehicle at Africa on Foot when the 2 Ross Pride females were making regular appearances this week. Image by Em Gatland.

Cat fight. Ross Pride females get aggressive with one another over a meal. Image by Em Gatland.

An African scops owl makes a meal of a spider at Africa on Foot. Image by Em Gatland.

A young elephant browsing the trees in the Klaserie near nThambo Tree Camp. Image by Em Gatland.

The lionesses are pro huntresses, and with tiny cubs to feed, they must remain well-fed. Image by Em Gatland.

The Ross Pride’s breakaway lionesses unite for a shoulder rub on game drive with nThambo Tree Camp. Image by Em Gatland.

A white-backed vulture taking off from its perch and captured perfectly in the dark by Em Gatland.

nDzuti Safari Camp, placed at the beautiful ox-bow of the Klaserie River, is surrounded by ridges and valleys, which makes the landscape indescribably beautiful. Sundowners are a highlight at this camp, as Bruce and Judy know just the right spots to boast the phenomenal views as the sky turns pink and orange. While photographer Em Gatland was visiting, she captured wonderful images of nightlife, birdlife, and some of nDzuti’s common residents.

Nocturnal predator, the hyena, emerging for a hunt after dark. Image by Em Gatland.

Giraffes at dusk. A beautiful picture of Africa for nDzuti’s guests. Image by Em Gatland.

The migratory birds are flocking in. Here, a European bee-eater perches on a branch in the Klaserie after a long journey from its homeland. Image by Em Gatland.

A profile of an elephant observed near nDzuti Safari Camp in the Klaserie. Image by Em Gatland.

In the Sabi Sand Wildtuin – little introduction needed – Umkumbe Safari Lodge elevates itself overlooking the Sand River, and there is little reason to move from your comfortable poolside lounger, as so many species gather right in front of the lodge to drink and graze. As superb as Umkumbe’s placement is, it is not its only appeal. Game drives are chock-full of predator sightings, just as the Sabi Sand is known for. Take a look at the recent sightings Em Gatland bore witness to…

A rhino rises from its slumber in front of the Umkumbe game viewer giving guests a wonderful view of this special herbivore. Image by Em Gatland.

Wild dogs have been spotted in the Sabi Sand and have behaved in a relaxed manner offering Umkumbe’s guests a very lucky sighting. Image by Em Gatland.

A baby elephant investigates with its newly discovered trunk, picking up our scent at Umkumbe Safari Lodge. Image by Em Gatland.

A beautiful chameleon spotted on a night drive at Umkumbe in the Sabi Sand. Image by Em Gatland.

Ross Pride lionesses kill a warthog at Africa on Foot

Image by Em Gatland.

The Klaserie is on fire with wildlife activity and excitement, and lucky for us, photographer Em Gatland has been hanging out at Africa on Foot capturing it all! Recently, Em and JD headed out in search of lions, and what they got was an unexpected thrill. JD writes about the time the Africa on Foot guests saw the Breakaway Ross Pride lionesses kill a warthog. Check it out…

A day of high drama, tension, failure, and ultimately, success! The Africa on Foot and nThambo Tree Camp rangers, JD, and photographer, Em Gatland had been tracing the spoor to find the Breakaway Ross Pride lionesses to film. Located at Twin Pans early that morning where there was water to drink, the lionesses were looking very hungry and alert – up and on the move. Conditions were great, and these females are renowned and excellent hunters; Em & JD followed the 2 as they set off on the prowl.

We came across a herd of impala within 20 metres of the drainage line and both lionesses exhibited a charging run. Alas, it was a complete miss. The lionesses moved westwards towards some giraffe in the tree line. Em & JD rushed the film vehicle into a closer position to see if the lions would attempt to take down the giraffe. Patrick, guide at Africa on Foot, joins the search party and suddenly, warthogs emerged from the thickets at full escape speed. We waited close by to hear for any alarm calls or death rattle sounds… Then, fearful and terrified squealing some 200 metres away signalled a warthog had been caught! We rushed towards the sound to find the Ross Pride lionesses killing a large male warthog. Kill Zone: Swart Dam. Success!

The drama continued as the lionesses fed; epic and awesome, growling and snarling. And, in the death of the one, life given to the other.

Image by Em Gatland.

The Week in Pictures: It’s baby season in the wild!

On a recent trip to Botswana, we bore witness to some of the first impalas to be born of the season, baby warthogs tearing up the ground in an excitable game of ‘tag’, and some of Africa’s fiercest predators in their cute n fluffy youth. Well, their presence at a bloody kudu kill tainted their innocence slightly, but soon their playful tug-of-war with the kudu’s ear took them right back to cub-hood. Take a look at this week’s Week in Pictures, provided by Sun Destinations’ photographer and filmmaker, Kevin MacLaughlin.

Lion cub feasting at Haina Kalahari Lodge. Image by Kevin MacLaughlin.

A pride of 6 cubs, 3 lionesses, and 1 dominant male lion was settled just along the main road bordering the Central Kalahari Game Reserve near Haina Kalahari Lodge in Botswana, and resting under a nice, shady tree was the glassy-eyed remains of a kudu bull. Scattered on both sides of the fence line, the pot-bellied lion cubs were in full view of our game viewer, and they were too fat to go anywhere. Two out of the 3 mothers rested on the sand road in front of us, while the black-maned male was secluded under a tree, having eaten his fill. One lioness was feasting greedily on the kudu, as was a pair of determined cubs, while the rest of the family lay uncomfortably with swollen tummies. What an incredible sight and photo opportunity with the setting Kalahari sun!

Young lion cub testing out the kudu innards that had been discarded from the favoured meat. Kevin MacLaughlin.

Lion cub at a kill site at Haina Kalahari Lodge. Image by Kevin MacLaughlin.

After flying with Major Blue Air in a stylish 6 seater airplane over the Okavango Delta, we set off on a game drive to Mapula Lodge in a private concession of the northern Delta. On the way to the lodge, a flurry of action turned our attention to a termite mound on the left, and what we saw was a pair of warthog siblings engaging in a chase of one another. Mother warthog grazed around them without batting an eyelid and we managed to drive right up to them and watch them fly along the ground in true child-like fashion before settling down for a rest and allowing us to take a couple of photos.

Warthog piglets in the Okavango Delta. Image by Kevin MacLaughlin.

A pair of young warthogs spotted on the way to Mapula Lodge in the Okavango Delta. Image by Kevin MacLaughlin.

Camping might have been the most fun out of the trip through Botswana. Removed from the comfort of lodges and placed into the simplicity of the bush, tent-life at Camp Linyanti allowed for some of the most up close encounters with elephants and hippos throughout the whole trip. A shady patch of ground with a fire block, a braai area and a nearby tap made up the basics of the campsite, while the unbeatable location of this Chobe oasis was what made it unforgettable. Only a few steps down the bank in front of our site were the waters of the Linyanti swamp, and elephants moved freely between us and the water as we watched from the comfort of our camping chairs. Just around camp was an unlimited supply of birds, and small mammals that frequented the area. One afternoon a troupe of baboons foraged under ‘our tree’, while a juvenile bateleur perched, poised, on a tree branch.

A young baboon at Camp Linyanti. Image by Kevin MacLaughlin.

Juvenile bateleur eagle in the Linyanti, Chobe. Image by Kevin MacLaughlin.

Returning to South Africa meant returning to Africa on Foot and nThambo Tree Camp where we headed out to see what we had been missing! Sure enough, baby season had hit the Klaserie bush, too, and we spotted numerous young impalas skittishly bolting from sight and hiding behind anything they could. Kevin managed to capture one as it paused to look around at the vehicle. In the next few weeks, many female impalas will be ‘dropping’ their young, and the rounded bellies will even out once more, but we know that such high numbers of easy kills will bring the predators even closer…

A couple of baby impalas spotted in the Klaserie Reserve. Image by Kevin MacLaughlin.

Just before departing the Klaserie and heading home to Cape Town, my morning game drive game me something to smile about. A flock of vultures drew closer to the ground just ahead of us and eventually landed on the surrounding trees. A kill! We had just seen a leopard hanging out in a tree before it leapt down and headed into the thick bush, and the presence of vultures made us suspicious. We ventured into the bush and saw an elephant looking nervous. Soon enough our eyes were drawn to the tiny bundle of elephant joy that wobbled at the feet of its mother. This elephant had just been born and could barely walk; its afterbirth was what was attracting the vultures. Its mother began to relax and she threw dust and grass over herself in a satisfied manner, leaving the debris on her head like a crown.

Newborn elephant struggling with its balance in the Klaserie Reserve. Image by Kevin MacLaughlin.

Tiny elephant calf seen around Africa on Foot and nThambo Tree Camp. Image by Kevin MacLaughlin.

Only just met – mom elephant and her baby together only an hour or so after birth. Image by Kevin MacLaughlin.

Birding, fishing, and walking safaris at Marakapula

Photo by Kevin MacLaughlin

Marakapula is no ordinary game reserve. It is land that is owned by the local Mashishimale Community, and has been converted from overfarmed cattle grounds into 20 000 hectares of pristine, Big 5 territory. It’s location near the Kruger Park, the Blyde River Canyon, the Panorama Route, and the Olifants River means that guests here have a wide variety of choice when it comes to their days on safari.

To make choices even more tricky, this scenically beautiful and wild reserve offers a number of activities itself. If reclining next to the pool at Makubu Lodge with a good book doesn’t appeal to you, and you’re not a keen bird-watcher, there is more than enough to keep you entertained in between activities.

Morning and evening game drives are conducted in the reserve, navigating through the abundance of trees, driving along numerous rivers and lakes, winding in between boulder koppies, and always stopping for a look at the surroundings with a drink in hand. Guide and tracker follow the footprints to find the big animals, while the general game includes kudu, impala, waterbuck, zebra, giraffe, wildebeest, bushbuck, and baboons.

Alternatively, guests can head out on an exciting walking safari with their guide. This is something truly special, and the incident of viewing a potentially dangerous animal on foot is an awe-inspiring experience. Head out either from the lodge directly, or from a location reached by vehicle. Climbing the iconic boulder hills in this region offers magnificent views of the surrounding 20 000 hectare reserve and the town of Phalaborwa beyond.

Back at the lodge, each chalet has an individual wooden deck that extends into the trees and reeds alongside the river. This proximity to the Selati River, and being placed beneath the leafy branches places you right in bird-watching paradise. Bring your binoculars and a bird book and get lost for hours in the melodic chatter of the many bird species in the reserve.

The Selati River is alive with fish! You can hear their splashing break the silence, and if you look fast enough you will see the ripples that remain of their presence. You will be offered fishing rods and you can find a quiet spot in front of the lodge to cast your line, but don’t expect to enjoy the tranquillity for too long because those fish bite quickly and they are not always the ones you want to catch! Silver barbels have spiney barbs that pack a real sting, so best to have a brave fisherman friend to release this little fish for you.

Marakapula to Kruger

Photo by Kevin MacLaughlin

You know you’re winning when you’re on safari in a Big 5 private reserve of almost 20 000 hectares, but when you’ve got the option to expand your horizons and also visit one of the most prestigious game parks in Africa, you know you’ve hit the jackpot. Only a 20 minute drive from one wildlife haven to the next, and you can do it all without checking out of your elaborately comfortable game lodge.

Marakapula Reserve is located in the gorgeous Limpopo Province, just 25km from the Phalaborwa gate of the Kruger National Park. It is luscious and green with huge wild fig trees and an abundance of water, which feeds the riverside vegetation and attracts a wide variety of species. Lots of bushbuck, waterbuck, kudu, impala, hippo, crocodile, leopard, elephant, lion. And that’s only ticking off a fraction of the species list! Game drives in the reserve are scenically beautiful with some striking lookout points, ancient baobab trees, hundreds of mopanes, running rivers, and a skyful of birds.

The beauty of Marakapula is its location in South Africa. It is positioned within a short distance to some of the most spectacular natural sites of the country. One of those sites is the Kruger National Park, which contains within its vast boundaries an exravagant species diversity and an intermingling pattern of roads that direct self-driving and guided guests via innumerable waterholes, viewing points, and bird-hides throughout its almost 20 000 square kilometre area. This is one of the best spots for birding in South Africa, while there are over 150 mammal species in the park.

After a short drive from Marakapula to the Kruger’s Phalaborwa gate, we entered the park and laid our eyes upon a ‘dagha-boy’ – a huge, lone, male buffalo, and our first of the Big 5. There wasn’t a car in sight, and the slightly overcast day meant some respite from the heat, and it was evident that the game was feeling more energetic. This buffalo bull trudged past us and we left him in peace. Only a few more minutes on the road and us ‘bird-nerds’ had to stop again because a beautiful bateleur eagle was perched on a bare branch close by. Busily preening its jet black feathers with its bright orange and red beak, we enjoyed a long time with this bird of prey.

Photo by Kevin MacLaughlin

While we were enjoying the bateleur (after having just left the buffalo), our focus was interrupted by the presence of an elephant crossing the tar road in front of us. Its almighty size is always staggering and we hung around taking pictures of this beauty…not knowing just how many elephant photo opportunities we would have!

As we carried on towards the Letaba River we stopped far too many times for birds, and we were spoilt enough to catch some of Africa’s endangered species in their natural, wild Kruger home. A young cheetah – Africa’s most endangered big cat – glanced back at us from its position in the grass before slinking away into the wilderness; and a white rhino and her calf surprised us around one corner, and we managed to sit and enjoy watching them graze in the presence of oxpeckers.

Photo by Kevin MacLaughlin

Photo by Kevin MacLaughlin

Some blue wildebeest stampeded in the dusty grass, and a klipspringer stood tall on its rocky lookout, offering photographer, Kevin MacLaughlin, some beautiful photo opportunities. At one of the numerous water sites in this region of Kruger, we stopped to admire some (more) birdlife. A white-faced whistling duck shook its feathers around in the water, bathing, while the emerald feathers of a comb duck shone in the sun while it bobbed around cleaning its feathers.

Photo by Kevin MacLaughlin

Photo by Kevin MacLaughlin

Photo by Kevin MacLaughlin

After a good few hours in the park – and a quick stop at the elephant museum at Letaba rest camp – we headed back towards the gate, passed the Masorini cultural site, where evidence of the lives of ancient people has been preserved, and exited at Phalaborwa gate. A short 20-minute drive later we were welcomed by the swimming pool and the shady deck at Makubu Lodge at Marakapula.

Other guests had been on a boat cruise on the Olifants River, while a few had been on a walking safari in the Marakapula Reserve itself. We all exhanged stories over a scrumptious dinner that night and set off for a supremely comfortable rest in our luxury river-facing rooms. All in a day’s holiday at Marakapula!

Week in Pictures: All the cats, the dogs, and rhinos in perfect light

Photo by Kevin MacLaughlin

Word from the camps this week comes packed with enviable tales of life in the bush. Kevin MacLaughlin has more from home-base at Africa on Foot:

A spotted bush snake was found at Africa on Foot just behind one of the guest’s rooms. It spends most of its time in trees in search of lizards and tree frogs, the beautiful green colouration helping with camouflage, as with its slender body, which might resemble a branch. There is no danger to man.

Photo by Kevin MacLaughlin

Photo by Kevin MacLaughlin

Early morning shots of the impala and rhino, which were seen around Africa on Foot and nThambo Tree Camp as the sun came up, allowing for the perfect light on the subjects. It was a group of 3 rhino – mother and calf and then a big bull.

Photo by Kevin MacLaughlin

Photo by Kevin MacLaughlin

The elephants have been on almost every road in the Klaserie, with this little baby being quite a character for nThambo’s guests.

Photo by Kevin MacLaughlin

Again with nThambo’s guests we saw a yellow-billed kite eating something (it looked like a rib of something big, but was probably a lizard). He dropped his prey and then flew off in search of something else.

Photo by Kevin MacLaughlin

Photo by Kevin MacLaughlin

There has been a dead buffalo on the property, which died of natural causes, providing food for many vultures and a tawny eagle. Unfortunately for the tawny, it was getting mobbed by a fork-tailed drongo, and eventually it flew off.

Photo by Kevin MacLaughlin

Photo by Kevin MacLaughlin

Photo by Kevin MacLaughlin

Just around the corner at Nokana Safari Camp, guests travelled into the Kruger National Park and ventured through an exclusive 4×4 trail where they enjoyed the wonders of the Kruger’s wildlife without having to share! The private Mananga Trail is only used by guides with certain privileges, and, naturally, this privilege belongs to Nokana. A beautiful kudu bull, a drinking elephant, and a young Speke’s tortoise were among the day’s fantastic sightings.

Photo by Kevin MacLaughlin

Photo by Kevin MacLaughlin

Bruce and Judy Meeser at nDzuti Safari Camp in the Klaserie sent through some wonderful images of elephants in the riverbed, a colourful skink sunning itself on the rocks, and a pair of elegant giraffes giving guests the eyeball.

In the Marakapula Reserve, located just 25km from the Kruger’s Phalaborwa gate, the Big 5 animals prowl in their own 20 000 hectare sanctuary. The Selati River, the baobab trees, the giant boulder hills, the wild figs… I could go on. A male lion and his lioness were spotted in the reserve, and Kevin snapped these two lovely portraits:

Photo by Kevin MacLaughlin

Game viewing in the Sabi Sand is never disappointing, and as it is every week for Umkumbe Safari Lodge, guests have been treated to some wonderful sightings. Guide and photographer, Angele Rouillard had this much to say:

We have had another great week in the bush! The end of last week was a little quiet, especially for general game, as we had controlled burns on the property. However, this made for some eerie mornings and stunning night displays which my group of photographers thoroughly enjoyed. By the end of the week, sightings had picked up with close leopard encounters, Charleston Pride lazing in the sun, wild dogs being chased by a herd of elephants protecting their young, comical elephant calf river crossings, and of course, our beautiful rhinos who always know how to pose for the cameras. The pyrotechnics of thunder and lightning just added that extra wow factor for our guests this week!

Photo by Umkumbe guide, Angele Rouillard.

Photo by Umkumbe guide, Cameron Engelbrecht.

Over in Botswana’s fantastic Savuti marsh, guests at Camp Savuti caught this leopard prowling through the grass. An African buffalo stands out in contrast with the yellow plains, and the tall and beautiful secretary bird poses for a quick picture.

The Delta Belle Houseboat, cruising along the Okavango River in the world-renowned panhandle, is a birding paradise where fishermen and twitchers alike can find joy in the peace and tranquillity of nature. Here, a squacco heron pauses in the sunlight, a pied kingfisher eyes the water from a high perch, and the guardians of the river – the hippos – settle silently in the still Okavango River at sunset.

Image by Jochen Van de Perre

Image by Jochen Van de Perre

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