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Guest blog: A little piece of Kalahari paradise at Haina

Mike and Fiona Clarke are back in the bush and, as always, we are happy to hear from them giving us their thoughts on our camps! Here’s the Haina Report:

A change to our usual South Africa trip; we decided to spend a few days in the Kalahari first. We arrived at Botswana airport, apprehensive of our light aircraft flight onwards to Haina Lodge. Our pilot, Ash, greeted us and took us over to a small 5-seater Cessna (1st time on a small plane!). We took off towards the Kalahari, a slightly bumpy ride due to the good weather, and thermals. We eventually arrived at Haina airstrip, greeted with a big wave and smile from Adriaan, the manager, in the game vehicle on the airstrip – our holiday had started!

Wanda and Adriaan - owners and managers at Haina Kalahari Lodge

Wanda and Adriaan – general managers at Haina Kalahari Lodge.

The lodge at Haina is wonderful, overlooking a small waterhole – a rare drop of water in the bare landscape. When we arrived, kudu and impala in abundance were having a much needed afternoon drink. The rooms (well, luxury tents), are also welcoming. Ours was called Itermagog – Afrikaans for pangolin (a good sign). There were female leopard tracks all around it, but no signs of her – apparently they were from the previous evening.

Kudu at the Haina waterhole.

We have travelled extensively throughout Africa, and this lodge ranks high in our list of excellent camps – as good as to say that there is nothing that would need changing as it is perfect the way it is. Food here is wonderful; if you love your food, you’ll be in heaven. Real South African dishes – pojtie, babotie, and kudu braai – all served to 5 star, a la carte standard, and plenty for everyone, plus some to spare. The atmosphere here is very relaxed, just chill by the pool, or watch the wildlife at the waterhole. Adriaan and Wanda are exceptional managers and hosts, as is their trusted dog, Dimples, a very friendly Staffordshire terrier (who loves travelling on the bonnet of the land cruiser when given the chance).

Luxury tent exterior.

Tent interior.

If you are looking for the Big 5 then this is not the place for you. If you are looking for an informative, adventure-filled time, then Haina is definitely the place to go. There is the walk with the San people – the traditional Kalahari Bushmen. They show you how to track, catch game, find water and light fire, the traditional way – a real experience not to be missed. For the more adventurous, there is quad biking in the sands of the Kalahari – a different and thrilling way to see wildlife. We saw kudu, impala, and a leopard tortoise whilst careering through the landscape at high speed, leaving clouds of dust behind us!

Kalahari bushmen experience.

Quad biking in the Kalahari.

Game drives are taken twice a day, where you have a good chance of seeing true Kalahari antelope – eland, springbok, hartebeest and most impressively, the desert-loving gemsbok (or better known as oryx). All these are seen on most game drives, posing nicely for impressive photos. There are also the small animals and birds, often overlooked on busy game drives. We were lucky enough to see yellow mongoose – an animal we have never seen before on our travels. Then of course there are the famous ‘black maned lions’ of the Kalahari – large impressive lions only found in this region of Africa.

Gemsbok: desert-adapted antelope.

Yellow mongoose standing to attention.

Campfire and a game drive vehicle.

Adriaan tried his utmost to find these elusive animals for us. We found fresh tracks for a female lioness who came to the camp watering hole one evening, while we were out on game drive. We tried to find her, but she had disappeared back into the bush. We then found her fresh tracks the following morning, but missed her by mere minutes as she vanished from the area. Adriaan is sure she has cubs not far away that she was returning to feed. On our last night we heard male lions roaring in the distance – would we be lucky enough to see them? Once again Adriaan tried to find them, looking everywhere for their large tracks in the sand – but not luck. We’ll just have to come back again to this little gem in the understated Kalahari to see them (not that we really need a reason).

So, our time was up, as the small Cessna plane landed at the locally named ‘Haina International Airport’ to collect us. We waved goodbye, promising to return. If you are planning a trip to Botswana to visit the Okavango Delta or Chobe, don’t forget this little piece of paradise, nestled on the northern border of the Central Kalahari. Add this to your visit and we promise that you won’t be disappointed!

Kalahari sunset.

September Safari Sightings at nDzuti

The waterhole in front of nDzuti Safari Camp in the Klaserie sees a variety of visitors, from its nighttime regulars – jackal, civet and hyena – to the influx of diurnal animals, like impalas and baboons. Grey go-away birds, owls, mongooses, and plenty of others are seen in front of the lodge almost daily and there is seldom a quiet moment.

Sometimes, guests are incredibly fortunate and whole herds of elephants amble up to the water, putting the shady lawn of nDzuti in safari paradise. Recent visitors were just that lucky!

Dave Jackson, our onsite videographer, put together this compilation of some recent sightings at nDzuti. The safari experience with Bruce and Judy (owners and hosts) is all encompassing; with just as much emphasis put on the stupendous beauty of the vistas as there is on the regular Big 5 sightings.

Take a look and be transported to the Klaserie Private Nature Reserve and all the majesty that surrounds nDzuti.

The Week in Pictures: baby elephants and herds of buffalo

©Kevin MacLaughlin

The Kruger camps are full of guests having undeniable fun with the big game species keeping well within the area. Our unfenced camps in the Klaserie Private Nature Reserve, Africa on Foot and nThambo Tree Camp, are often visited by wandering elephants and the ever-present pair of honey badgers. Game drives are always exciting, whether there are sightings of the beautiful leopard, or the delicate flap-necked chameleon.

This week was no different, and our report from photographer Kevin MacLaughlin leaves us as satisfied as ever with sightings of baby elephants and buffalo.

There has been a huge herd of buffalo moving through the area with numerous encounters on foot as well as in the vehicle. We were lucky enough to be in the middle of the herd as the sun was setting on our game drive. There has also been a massive herd of elephant (50+) moving between nThambo Tree Camp and Africa on Foot with quite a few week-old calves. In one of the photos you can see a bull elephant investigating a newly born ellie.

©Kevin MacLaughlin

Over in the Sabi Sand, there are babies of another sort making themselves seen. Ranger Cameron Engelbrecht at Umkumbe Safari Lodge sent through some of his beautiful photographs, which capture a young giraffe suckling its mother; a hyena caught in perfect sunlight; and a lone male lion blending in with the yellow grass during an afternoon siesta.

©Cameron Engelbrecht

A sneak preview of life on the Delta Belle

A houseboat safari is quite unlike the experience to be had at permanent game lodges where the hours of game viewing and exploration are confined to morning and evening. Cruising down the world-famous Okavango River in simple style with only the familiar faces of your friends and family creates an experience to remember.

The exclusive journey offers and unending tour of the precious Okavango Panhandle, while activities like fishing, island picnics, bush walks, and bird watching keep guests entertained. The decks are designed for lounging on and the bedrooms all have views of the surrounding waters and riverbanks, so prepare to be guided through this wetland paradise in utmost comfort.

Spend your nights enveloped in the tranquil sounds of Africa and wake-up every morning to spectacular views of the Okavango River. Positioned in one of the greatest wetlands of the world and moored in the Panhandle, the Delta Belle is a luxurious, 5 bedroomed houseboat perfect for a unique water-based safari.

Guests will have ample opportunity to discover Africa’s hidden wildlife secrets and a smaller tender boat will allow you to explore the narrow channels and papyrus-lined waterways. Spend your days game viewing, tiger fishing and relaxing on the upper deck of the houseboat while watching the sun set over the river.

A Lioness Stalking Warthogs in the Okavango Panhandle

The long, green grass of the well-watered Okavango River Panhandle is ideal for hiding the slinking silhouette of a lioness huntress out on the prowl for her dinner. She drops low into the grass and tries to disguise her form and get as close as possible before charging out of the bush, targeting her prey. It is quite something to catch a lion on the move during the day, as it is most common to find them lying in the cool shade with the intermittent swish of a tail being their only movement. “Flat cat”, they call it. Lions are big sleepers during the day, setting out to hunt at night; however, they are opportunistic eaters and catching them prowling during daylight is a possibility.

Here, in the Okavango Panhandle in the north-western region of Botswana, lions are well-fed on the abundant game, and the wildlife activity is constant. Guests aboard the Delta Belle Houseboat have the area all to themselves on an exclusive tour of the Panhandle from the privacy and comfort of this double-decker houseboat. Cruising along the Okavango River and using a tender boat to wind in between the narrower waterways, the Delta Belle offers a wonderful perspective on the surrounding wilderness.

Whether it be the ample birdlife, the famed fishing ground, the large herbivores, or the grand predator population, the Okavango Panhandle is a haven for wildlife. There is never a dull moment and game viewing from the deck is always exciting. In a moment like this one, guests happened upon a lone lioness, stealthily stalking a family of warthogs. It is an incredible moment to bear witness to and to watch how she approaches her potential meal. To remain unseen by these wary little pigs is not an easy task, and even though she seems to lose motivation at the end, it is a memorable occasion to have witnessed the queen of the Okavango demonstrating her nocturnal hunting practice in such clear sight.

Enjoy…

Elephants having a whale of a time in the Okavango

The earth’s largest land mammal is known throughout Africa as a lover of the water. Particularly, elephants in Botswana are known to spend a fair amount of time in the water, whether it be crossing wide Okavango waterways, or merely frolicking in the shallows as one big happy family. It is quite a sight to behold, as these great animals charge into the water and plunge, head first, into the depths – thoroughly loving the cooling waters on their hot skin.

All over Africa, elephants are found near water, as they need to drink almost daily in order to digest the vast quantity of coarse material they consume every day. It is one thing to watch these creatures stand neatly at the water’s edge and use their trunks as feeding devices, transporting litres of water from the source and into their mouths; other times one may catch elephants in a playful mood and be lucky enough to observe their celebration of water.

Here, on the Delta Belle Houseboat, guests on their own exclusive cruising safari arrived at one of these entertaining sights. Watch as a herd of elephants interacts with one another as they share in the cooling waters of the Okavango River.

“Elephants are especially partial to bathing and swimming, during which time they will either spray themselves down or submerge completely using their trunks as snorkels. Bulls are especially playful during swimming time and they engage in social dominance contests and play fighting while in the water.” ~ Extract from Megan Emmett and Sean Pattrick’s book, Game Ranger in Your Backpack

Take a look:

Birds of the Okavango Panhandle

The Okavango Delta Panhandle is home to such an array of colourful creatures, it’s hard to know which way to look! The Delta Belle Houseboat cruises through the area taking guests on a private tour of this magnificent region. These are some of the birds one will get to know in the epic Okavango…

We know him as Zazu, Mufasa’s loyal bird-PA in the Lion King, but off-screen, the red-billed hornbill serves another member of the animal kingdom. These commonly seen birds have a mutually beneficial relationship with dwarf mongooses, offering the luxury of a warning call in return for easy prey. The mongooses often await the arrival of the hornbills before setting out foraging in the morning, and similarly, if the hornbills arrive early, they send a noisy wakeup call into mongoose burrows to get the foraging started. On the lookout for predators, hornbills keep the mongooses safe, while swooping to snatch up any flyaway insects disturbed by the mongooses.

Hornbills have a complex breeding behaviour that begins with pair bonding and visual displays, and builds trust between the male and the female for the duration of the season. Prior to laying eggs, the female hornbill gets sealed into a pre-existing hole in the trunk of a tree using mud, food remains and droppings, leaving only a narrow opening big enough for her to receive food from her mate. The female sheds all her feathers, which then line the nest and cradle her eggs safely. Once the chicks are of age, the female has regrown all her feathers and breaks her way out of the nest, not forgetting to seal it up again with her chicks inside. Both male and female hornbills will take on the feeding duty until the chicks are old enough to fly. After 3 weeks as a family, the young’uns fledge and seek a mate of their own.

Aptly named in French (Marabou means ‘ugly, misshapen, old man’), the marabou stork is a terrifically unattractive bird that joins the hyena, wildebeest, warthog, and vulture in Africa’s ‘Ugly Five’. Its hunched form can be seen awkwardly balancing atop trees when it is not feeding itself by scavenging after vultures and other messy carnivores. Marabou storks are meat-eaters, but their beaks are not equipped for tearing off bites of their own, and instead they grab the bite-size scraps left over from others.

One of the much more beautiful species starring in Botswana’s avian parade is the lilac-breasted roller. Hungry for meat, this colourful bird perches high up on bare branches either alone or in close pairs, keeping an eye out for insects, scorpions, snails, lizards, even small birds on which to prey. A breeding pair of lilac-breasted rollers nest in a pre-existing tree hole where a clutch of up to 4 eggs is incubated and protected fiercely by both male and female. A roller’s claim to fame, and indeed its namesake, is its dramatic show of soaring into the air and plummeting from a height in a sort of somersault motion while exhibiting a less than songful call. This beautiful bird certainly does not have a voice to match its vibrant plumage.

Out of the 9 species of kingfisher occurring in Botswana, this small black and white bird is the only one demonstrating hovering behaviour. Instead of quietly awaiting the moment to plunge from an extended branch, the pied kingfisher flies above the water and hovers (not quite as expertly as a hummingbird) above its intended prey before nose-diving through the surface and retrieving its fishy prize. Its eyes naturally correct refraction of the water making sure the bird can judge the exact position of its prey, and its transparent eyelids are designed to cover the eyes yet maintain vision as the bird enters the water. Unlike most other kingfishers, pied kingfishers are co-operative breeders, meaning that the breeding pairs receive assistance in caring for their young from their older offspring and other non-breeding adults.

Woodpeckers not only drum furiously onto the trunks of trees to access the delicious mites that dwell within, they also rap their beaks quickly against the bark as a means of communication. The resounding noise can be heard afar and is the unmistakable call of these pretty birds. They have unique adaptations from their feet to their beaks that suit the birds to their heavy duty jobs. Woodpeckers’ brains are cushioned against the pressure of drumming into wood, and their exceptionally long tongues begin behind their eye sockets, providing a sort of shock absorber preventing the bird from falling unconscious. They have 2 toes facing backwards and 2 facing forwards, so that they can comfortably cling to the trees in a vertical position. Their tail feathers are sturdier than usual and press onto the trunk of the tree, providing support in the way that a tripod does.

Giant crocodiles of the Delta Panhandle

The Okavango Panhandle feeds the widespread floodplains of the world-famous delta that reaches across the north-west of Botswana. Recently named a World Heritage Site, the Delta has been officially recognised as a wetland paradise housing a diversity of Africa’s wildest species.

Water-loving wildlife and birdlife keep close all year round, thriving in the numerous waterways and vegetated islets of the Okavango. The depths of the Okavango River itself provide solace to some of the aquatic animals of Africa, and offer die-hard fishermen one of the best locations for tiger fishing, while unwinding and relaxing among some of the wildest creatures on earth.

The Ngwesi Houseboat is moored at a secret location in the Panhandle, bobbing gently on the surface of the water, cruising along, silently observing the animal activity that surrounds. One of the Okavango’s most ferocious and abundant creatures is the Nile Crocodile. Contrary to popular belief, these reptilian giants primarily feed on fish (which the Panhandle has in abundance), while also prey on antelope risking a drink at the shores of the river.

The size of a crocodile is simply determined by age: the older the crocodile, the larger it is, and the more dominant it is when it comes to vying for a mate. The crocodiles of the Okavango Delta are some of the largest in the world, and guests of the Ngwesi Houseboat are sure to come across some of these prehistoric-looking beasts sunning themselves on the banks of the river. Some of these crocs can reach 5-6m in length at their largest and weigh in at over a ton. Usually living to around 60 to 80 years, it is also possible that some Nile corcodiles can reach 100 years old!

Have a look at this monstor crocodile seen on the Okavango riverbank while on safari with Ngwesi Houseboat:

The Week in Pictures – Lions of Savuti, a dwarf mongoose and The Treehouse

Kevin has been hard at work visiting all the camps, and below are some of the highlights.

This was taken at Camp Savuti, the lions had killed a buffalo and we got there as they were moving off to find some shade from the heat which allowed the vultures to take over the scraps. (c) Kevin MacLaughlin

This Gemsbok was found in the Central Kalahari while on a mobile safari with Haina. We often found the Gemsbok feeding around the springbok in vast open plains. (c) Kevin MacLaughlin

Springbok are regularly seen in the Central Kalahari at Haina Kalahari Lodge. (c) Kevin MacLaughlin

This image was also taken at Camp Savuti, this female leopard was incredibly relaxed and allowed us to view her for about an hour. She scent marked a few trees in the area then moved to the shade of our vehicle, and then into thick bush.

This image was captured right in front of Haina Kalahari Lodge taken from the spa overlooking the waterhole. There were 3 yellow-billed kites that came down for a drink during the midday heat. (c) Kevin MacLaughlin

This little guy was captured at Africa on Foot. The family of Dwarf Mongoose were playing around a termite mound in the early hours of the morning before rushing down the holes from the sound of the vehicle, but curiosity got the better of them and they poked their heads up for their picture. (c) Kevin MacLaughlin

These playful lions were seen at Camp Savuti in the game rich Savuti Marsh. (c) Kevin MacLaughlin

The Threehouse at Africa on Foot; a firm favourite with many guests! (c) Kevin MacLaughlin

The Week in Pictures: A lion kill, a leopard cub, and… another pangolin

Last week we oohed and aahed over the footage and photos of a rare sighting at Africa on Foot and nThambo Tree Camp; a pangolin had been spotted on game drive and guests at both camps got to see it. Just when we thought the fun was over and we had got the ‘once in a blue moon’ pangolin sighting (and it was great), we hear from our rangers in the Klaserie that another pangolin had been spotted only a few nights ago! This time, the pangolin was being active during its preferred night time, and Sun Destinations’ videographer, Kevin MacLaughlin, managed to get some excellent footage. We are so glad our guests have been lucky enough to see these rare and wonderful creatures in the wild, but that was not all they saw this week – take a look…

News from Umkumbe Safari Lodge lately has been rather exciting with 2 of our favourite animal mothers giving birth! The Sabi Sand is renowned for incredible leopard sightings and is considered one of the best places in South Africa to see this spotted cat. Umkumbe ranger, Cameron Engelbrecht, sent me an update on the superb game viewing they have been having along the Sand River, and as I had hoped, the update comes with a leopard and her 3 month old cub! These are Cameron’s pictures of this beautiful female and her cute and fluffy male cub.

Keeping on topic, Cameron followed up on a young elephant this week, and managed to capture these stunning photos. If you’ve been following Umkumbe’s updates on Facebook, you will know about the unique ‘short-trunk female’, which is an adult elephant with a damaged trunk. It is shorter than it should be and she doesn’t have ‘nostrils’, so she has always fallen behind the herd. After keeping on her own for a while (very unusual for female elephants), it became clear she was pregnant, and by the time she gave birth only 2 weeks ago, the rest of the herd had joined her and were surrounding her during her birth offering support and protection. No wild mammal is quite as astoundingly emotional as the elephant. Here we have Cameron’s family portrait taken this last week, showing ‘short-trunk’ mommy on the left and her tiny calf in the middle.

There has been some incredible lion activity in the Klaserie Reserve this last week with the big Trilogy male lions coming in for a meal. Just the other day, the local legends – the Ross Pride – took down a buffalo and prepared to eat, but they weren’t so fortunate as to gorge themselves on their meal. Kevin MacLaughlin at Africa on Foot has more…

“The best thing this week has probably been watching the Ross Pride killing a buffalo. Both camps (Africa on Foot and nThambo) got to witness the kill taking place. Shortly after the kill was made, 4 young males chased the Ross Pride off their kill so they could tuck in; then they were chased off the buffalo by The Trilogy. The following day we found The Trilogy on another buffalo kill not far from the first one.”

Kevin added to his comments about the week’s game viewing in general, emphasising the excitement surrounding the second pangolin sighting in 2 weeks, plus visits from some other rare members of the wild.

“So the week has been full of excitement; the wild dogs gave us a brief visit earlier on in the the week. Now, for the second time we’ve managed to see a pangolin. The guests from Africa on Foot were already back from their evening safari when nThambo called over the radio and reported that they had found a pangolin. Unsurprisingly, AOF climbed back on the game viewer and managed to join the nThambo guests for a fantastic sighting.”

African wild dog seen around the Klaserie camps this week. Photo by Courteney Blunden.

Umkumbe Safari Lodge guests spent some quality time with this white rhino (and the oxpeckers on its back). ©Cameron Engelbrecht

Male waterbuck looking regal at Umkumbe Safari Lodge. ©Cameron Engelbrecht

Watch Kevin’s video of this week’s pangolin sighting here: