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The Week in Pictures: A lion kill, a leopard cub, and… another pangolin

Last week we oohed and aahed over the footage and photos of a rare sighting at Africa on Foot and nThambo Tree Camp; a pangolin had been spotted on game drive and guests at both camps got to see it. Just when we thought the fun was over and we had got the ‘once in a blue moon’ pangolin sighting (and it was great), we hear from our rangers in the Klaserie that another pangolin had been spotted only a few nights ago! This time, the pangolin was being active during its preferred night time, and Sun Destinations’ videographer, Kevin MacLaughlin, managed to get some excellent footage. We are so glad our guests have been lucky enough to see these rare and wonderful creatures in the wild, but that was not all they saw this week – take a look…

Female leopard ©Cameron Engelbrecht

Leopard cub ©Cameron Engelbrecht

News from Umkumbe Safari Lodge lately has been rather exciting with 2 of our favourite animal mothers giving birth! The Sabi Sand is renowned for incredible leopard sightings and is considered one of the best places in South Africa to see this spotted cat. Umkumbe ranger, Cameron Engelbrecht, sent me an update on the superb game viewing they have been having along the Sand River, and as I had hoped, the update comes with a leopard and her 3 month old cub! These are Cameron’s pictures of this beautiful female and her cute and fluffy male cub.

©Cameron Engelbrecht

©Cameron Engelbrecht

Keeping on topic, Cameron followed up on a young elephant this week, and managed to capture these stunning photos. If you’ve been following Umkumbe’s updates on Facebook, you will know about the unique ‘short-trunk female’, which is an adult elephant with a damaged trunk. It is shorter than it should be and she doesn’t have ‘nostrils’, so she has always fallen behind the herd. After keeping on her own for a while (very unusual for female elephants), it became clear she was pregnant, and by the time she gave birth only 2 weeks ago, the rest of the herd had joined her and were surrounding her during her birth offering support and protection. No wild mammal is quite as astoundingly emotional as the elephant. Here we have Cameron’s family portrait taken this last week, showing ‘short-trunk’ mommy on the left and her tiny calf in the middle.

Trilogy male ©Kevin MacLaughlin

Trilogy male on a (stolen) buffalo kill ©Kevin MacLaughlin

Trilogy male ©Kevin MacLaughlin

There has been some incredible lion activity in the Klaserie Reserve this last week with the big Trilogy male lions coming in for a meal. Just the other day, the local legends – the Ross Pride – took down a buffalo and prepared to eat, but they weren’t so fortunate as to gorge themselves on their meal. Kevin MacLaughlin at Africa on Foot has more…

“The best thing this week has probably been watching the Ross Pride killing a buffalo. Both camps (Africa on Foot and nThambo) got to witness the kill taking place. Shortly after the kill was made, 4 young males chased the Ross Pride off their kill so they could tuck in; then they were chased off the buffalo by The Trilogy. The following day we found The Trilogy on another buffalo kill not far from the first one.”

Kevin added to his comments about the week’s game viewing in general, emphasising the excitement surrounding the second pangolin sighting in 2 weeks, plus visits from some other rare members of the wild.

“So the week has been full of excitement; the wild dogs gave us a brief visit earlier on in the the week. Now, for the second time we’ve managed to see a pangolin. The guests from Africa on Foot were already back from their evening safari when nThambo called over the radio and reported that they had found a pangolin. Unsurprisingly, AOF climbed back on the game viewer and managed to join the nThambo guests for a fantastic sighting.”

African wild dog seen around the Klaserie camps this week. Photo by Courteney Blunden.

Umkumbe Safari Lodge guests spent some quality time with this white rhino (and the oxpeckers on its back). ©Cameron Engelbrecht

Male waterbuck looking regal at Umkumbe Safari Lodge. ©Cameron Engelbrecht

Watch Kevin’s video of this week’s pangolin sighting here:

New-born elephant in the moments after birth

Guests at nThambo Tree Camp were lucky enough to watch a new-born elephant calf during its first hour of life recently; a sight one never expects to see – not even the rangers!

Elephants are arguably the most fascinating creatures in Africa when it comes to family structure and herd dynamics. There is a purpose for everything, and there is a level of teamwork to be admired. Elephants are highly social animals and they live according to a disciplined regime that maintains order in the group. Splitting into breeding herds and bachelor herds, females and adult males live separately in ritualised harmony, but when order is thrown out and that structure is lost, chaos ensues.

A magical part of elephants’ lives that we should be so lucky to see, is birth. A baby elephant is carried in the womb for a whopping 22 months, and the mother will only have another calf after 4 years. The entire breeding herd is invested in the upbringing of the young. Guarding, rearing, and teaching calves happens from the moment of birth. And at death, elephants physically mourn their departed family members by carrying around bones, or visiting grave sites.

It is an intense and beautiful circle of life, and we are thrilled our guests were lucky enough to be a part of the experienced with these relaxed animals. Enjoy this footage by Dave Jackson and Luan Oosthuizen, and narrated by guide, Matt Roberts.

The Week in Pictures: The Ross Pride and a Pangolin

This week has been chock-a-block with wildlife sightings in the Klaserie Private Nature Reserve…which means nothing’s changed! We, in our Cape Town office, get snippets of news from our Kruger camps about the lions walking through camp, a leopard at nThambo’s waterhole, elephants ambling up to the camp’s pool, and the notorious honey badger giving guests a show. It’s always fantastic to be on the scene and to experience the safari yourself, but for those times we can’t all be there, we’re bringing you ‘The Week in Pictures’!

Kevin MacLaughlin, Sun Destinations’ photographer and videographer, takes permanent residence at Africa on Foot and makes it his business to capture the sightings we have to miss. Now, every Friday, we will post Kevin’s ‘week in pictures’, giving us a taste of what our guests are experiencing in the Klaserie.

This week, Kevin’s report includes the local Ross Pride females, a superb sighting of the rare and secretive pangolin, and a vision of buffalo at Africa on Foot and nThambo Tree Camp. Here’s the latest report from Kevin…

Ross Pride females, Mila and Lisa, spotted cleaning themselves after a night-time feast. ©Kevin MacLaughlin

“Mila and Lisa have been in the Ross Pride territory with sightings of them almost every day. They had made a kill during the night, and when we found them in the morning they were grooming themselves, trying to get the blood off their fur (what they killed is unknown). Both Lioness are in great condition and almost took down a kudu yesterday afternoon in front of the Africa on Foot guests.”

Hyena scavenging off an old giraffe kill. ©Kevin MacLaughlin

“We returned to the old giraffe kill (Africa on Foot) in the first light, and found 2 hyena trying to get hold of some scraps, but they soon realised there wasn’t anything edible and moved off.”

The brutal buffalo – making a frequent appearance around the camps. ©Kevin MacLaughlin

“Buffalo have been moving through the property almost every day, and lion tracks are always close by, but there hasn’t been any contact…yet.”

Something quite spectacular was the pangolin sighting, which caused a relative fuss among both the game rangers and the guests. Quietly enjoying the morning sunlight, this unusual, scaled creature was spotted by an excited ranger who (very politely) called it in on the radio. Soon enough everyone had taken their photo of an animal they may not likely be able to see again. Photographer, Em Gatland, who was visiting and photographing Sun Destinations’ Kruger camps, also managed to snap a few fantastic images of the endangered pangolin.

©Kevin MacLaughlin

Revisiting the Okavango Panhandle

The myriad of waterways, the plethora of wildlife and the lush vegetation in the Okavango Delta make it a sought after safari destination. With its brazen sunsets, hazy landscapes and bronze-coloured waters teeming with animals, this is Botswana’s most prized possession. The serenity of the delta creates a sense of peace that infiltrates the soul.

Reed rafts and papyrus make up the majority of the Okavango Delta’s natural habitat, offering seclusion to crocodiles and hippos. Most camps here base themselves in private concessions and are impressively built on the banks of one of the Okavango River’s various tributaries. Land-based camps offer safaris in game vehicles; those on water in traditional hand-crafted wooden canoes. Most of the camps are accessible via airstrips and you’ll experience safari opportunities in idyllic settings.

The camps are fantastic. However, we’ve got a secret – the forgotten part of the delta, where wildlife is rich and humans are sparse. It’s known as the Panhandle, where the river widens into channels across the sand in the north-western part of Botswana, an area best explored in a houseboat. This is a relatively underdeveloped, less visited section of the bountiful delta network.

The Panhandle boasts an array of fish; in particular, bream, pike and catfish. If fishing is your favourite pastime, then the Panhandle is ideal. Another attraction is the barbel run, during which time these fish congregate in their thousands to swim upstream, a unique phenomenon that takes place between August and October.

Due to the abundance of fish in these waters, an interesting array of birdlife flock to the scene. This is an ornithologist’s delight, and ‘twitchers’ can expect to see the African fish eagle, Pel’s fishingowl, rufous-bellied heron, bee-eaters, and more than 500 other recorded species spanning a wide range of habitats. A birding trip to the Panhandle on a houseboat will never disappoint.

Ngwesi Houseboat will see you navigating your way through 80km of reeds and thick papyrus, criss-crossed by canals, into flat, tranquil waters with panoramic views – ideal for game watching. Because of the diverse habitats, the wildlife is varied and at stages you’ll even see cattle wading through the reeds. Tender boats can be used to navigate the narrow channels to find private locations for fishing and photography.

While taking meals on the deck of the houseboat, you can enjoy the hues of the sky at both dawn and dusk. Don’t be surprised if you see a family of otters or even birds, such as grey-crowned cranes, lilac-breasted rollers, hamerkops, and other wading birds. You’ll sleep in comfort, surrounded by the sounds of wildlife, right in the middle of the action.

This is far, far more intriguing than being based on land…

Baby elephant in the Okavango Delta Panhandle

One of the most prominent wildlife sightings in the Okavango Panhandle is the elephants. Wading – sometimes fully submerged – through the waterways, drinking and playing in the wetland paradise. This region in the north-west of the Delta is historical, and forgotten by many except for the die-hard fisherman and travellers seeking the secluded and unexplored sanctuaries of nature. Here you will find the wildlife that lives freely under the Botswanan sun, and when you’re on a special houseboat safari, you’re likely to run into moments like this:

Video taken while on safari with Ngwesi Houseboat, cruising through the Okavango Panhandle.

This young elephant was carried in its mother’s womb for a grand total of 22 months! Elephants are reputably good mothers, and family bonds in breeding herds are strong. It is tradition (in the elephant world) that at the time of birth, the whole herd gathers around the mother and provides protection and support. There have been many stories describing the emotional display of elephants – that they celebrate their birth and mourn their dead. This is part of what makes them such fascinating creatures to watch, and when you see a tiny calf discovering the use of its trunk or practising taking steps, it is difficult not to be in awe of the majestic creatures they become.

Elephants have a similar lifespan to humans, sometimes living as long as 70 years. They can weigh between 4 and 6 tonnes and they have the incredible strength to uproot trees and tear off the bark without any effort at all. Elephants become superior by age and through genes. The matriarch is the oldest and biggest female and she leads the herd, and her eldest female offspring will be her successor.

Bulls leave the herd once they reach puberty and seek out an older, wiser bull to learn from. If young bulls leave the herd and do not find a ‘mentor’, they can become destructive and temperamental because they do not know how to channel their testosterone. In return for an older bull’s guidance, the young ‘askaris’ who have joined him will provide protection to him in his old and vulnerable age.

Why you should go to the Klaserie Private Nature Reserve

Blogger Carolynne Higgins has had a lot of experience in the Klaserie Private Nature Reserve and has called Africa on Foot her ‘home in the bush’. Many people have said similar things about this quiet, private bush camp, so Carolynne summed up what she thought the appeal of this particular reserve is, and why she would recommend it to anyone…

Sharing unfenced borders with the Kruger National Park and the Timbavati Reserve, the Klaserie Private Nature Reserve is a premier safari destination and one of the largest privately owned reserves in South Africa. Animals migrate freely throughout the reserves, creating an incredible biosphere and gene dispersion between various species. The Klaserie is one of the lesser-known private reserves in the Greater Kruger region and the visitors to the area will have unparalleled access to mammals, predators and other wildlife. The Klaserie spans a region of over 60 000 hectares of pristine Savannah and is a Big Five destination.

Why do I like the Klaserie? Because it’s off the beaten track, it’s unique and it’s not over-populated with visitors. When I visit the Klaserie, I feel like the place is mine. Even during the quiet season I have seen lions, leopard, rhino and even deadly snakes. The Klaserie is that hidden reserve that will intrigue your dinner party guests.

Here are my top 10 reasons for visiting the Klaserie:

1. The presence of white lions

The Timbavati region is renowned for its white lions and the Klaserie shares unfenced borders with the Timbavati Reserve. The Klaserie is actually dominated by two prides of lion – the Ross Pride and the Giraffe Pride. Two of the Giraffe Pride females are white lions and one of the males from the Ross Pride is rumoured to carry the white lion gene.

2. Birdlife, the honey badger, and large predators

A world-renowned film crew came to scope out the Africa on Foot camp for their honey badger documentary. Africa on Foot has a resident honey badger that helps itself to pretty much anything. It is rare to see a honey badger. There are a variety of bird species found in the Klaserie which makes it an ornithologists dream. Large predators, buck species, small mammals and the big five roam freely throughout the reserve.

3. Absence of game vehicle queues

There is a relative lack of visitors to the Klaserie which means an unrivalled game viewing experience. If anything, there’s perhaps only one vehicle at a sighting, if that.

4. The reserve is involved in ongoing research and conservation projects

For starters, the Klaserie hosts the Ground Hornbill Project which seeks to gain scientific data to understand environmental conditions promoting their survival. The Klaserie is also involved in helping to protect and track elephants throughout the Assoiciated Private Nature Reserve.

Southern ground-hornbill – an endangered bird that, without the help of artificial nesting in the Klaserie, would struggle to reproduce.

5. The presence of eco-friendly camps

If you’re an avid green warrior who is concerned about their carbon footprint, then you’ll be pleased about the eco-friendly nThambo Tree Camp. nThambo uses non-toxic cleaning products, firewood is brought into the property instead of destroying the surrounding bush, the camp is semi-permanent, solar power is used and uncontaminated water is directed into a wetland system and is recycled from there.

nThambo Tree Camp © Em Gatland

Africa on Foot © Em Gatland

6. Adventurous, professional big five walking safaris

The environment in the Klaserie is ideal for walking safaris which always provide an adventurous twist to your standard safari. Trained field guides will give you a brief rundown of the bush walking rules. This involves walking in single file, no sudden movements and respect for your guide at all times. These walks are as safe as the game drives. Africa on Foot is one the top destinations for professional big five walking safaris. And, trust me, there is nothing better than observing a crash of rhino from the safety of a Marula tree.

7. They have a sense of social responsibility

The Children’s Environmental Training Program (CET) is hosted by the Klaserie and the aim is to interact and educate children from the local community about the immediate environment. The program focuses specifically on the importance of the environment in their lives and how it impacts the future of South Africa. The youth are taught to conserve their environment and given tools to become the leaders of tomorrow.

8. An incredibly scenic, diverse habitat and vegetation

Whether you’re enjoying a casual stroll through the savannah or on a game drive, you’ll notice scatterlings of Marula trees, red thorn, wild teak and umbrella thorn. The reserve is located on the Klaserie River which creates the perfect diverse habitat for a variety of species. The reserve is located on the Klaserie River which means there are a number of waterholes throughout the region. The presence of water creates the perfect habitat for birds, amphibians, hippos and crocs.

9. The location of the reserve

The Klaserie is not a difficult reserve to access. It is located a mere 30 minutes from Hoedspruit airport which serves a number of local carriers. The lodges will generally, if requested, fetch you from the airport and transfer you to camp. The driving time from O.R Tambo airport is roughly six hours. If you are arriving internationally, you’ll either need to transfer, self-drive or take a connecting flight to the area.

10. Because I said so

I cannot elaborate on this point but trust me on this, I have visited the Klaserie on numerous occasions and the bush never fails to deliver with predator sightings. I’ll eat my proverbial safari hat if you’re disappointed with sightings – provided you’re there for a four-night stay.

Heaven on a Houseboat

A water-based safari adds an element of exhilaration, a combination of habitats, and a different experience of the senses. With such generous offerings of these wet wonderlands in Southern Africa, there is a stellar variety of methods by which to experience the wild. Possibly the most decadent of all boating safaris is the houseboat. The vibrant Okavango Delta, endless Zambezi River and the man-made marvel, Lake Kariba, each offer exceptional water-based activities that explore shorelines abundant with the activity of Africa’s greatest mammals, most colourful birds and armoured reptiles. Experience an uninterrupted display of wildlife from sun-drenched decks for as long as one’s eyes can resist sleep.

Wading elephants, diving kingfishers, basking crocs, grazing buffalo, grunting hippo and water-hunting lions adorn the rivers and their banks; all to be seen throughout the day and heard throughout the night as guests sail smoothly atop their floating homes, comforted by all the luxuries of land. Consider all the time between conventional game drives that is not spent out in the bush. On a houseboat safari, the landscape is ever-changing, and guests’ viewing pleasure is ever-present, as the entire holiday exists upon the flowing waters in these game-rich areas.

Ngwesi Houseboat is moored on the river near the village of Shakawe in the Okavango Delta. A double-decked houseboat, it offers comfortable sleeping space for up to 8 people down below and encourages lazy leisure up top with the view of Botswana’s most populated wildlife area. Ngwesi’s private tender boats provide an opportunity for guests to take some time out fishing for the Tiger fish; a fighting critter after which the boat itself is named. Travelling quietly along the waterways of the Delta, one should keep their eyes peeled for the rare Pels fishing owl – a true birder’s delight – whilst making use of the superb photographic opportunities as elephants take to the waters around you.

On Safari at nThambo Tree Camp

You know you’ve hit the safari jackpot when you don’t even have to leave the lodge to see some excellent game. The thing is, we HAD been out on game drive and we had already had our fill for the evening. The fact that we had a honey badger, a herd of elephants, and a spotted hyena visit the lodge after dinner was a bonus!

nThambo Tree Camp is an unfenced lodge, and we are escorted to bed by rangers with torches, just to be sure that there are no predatory creatures hiding out underneath our stilted chalets, or silent elephants walking their babies to the waterhole just a few metres in front of camp. For the lodge staff, it is not unusual to have late-night visitors, but any informed safari-goer will know one can never predict what will happen, so it was a thrill to experience such up-close and unexpected visitors.

Yesterday’s game drive made my personal top 5. Our land rover, driven by guide, Matt, happened upon a ‘shlambi of indlovu’, or, a herd of elephants. There were about 50 individuals, ranging in age and led by one dominant female, the matriarch. She let us know that she was in control of the situation and stood in the road eating for longer than necessary. Her little calf kept well underfoot of her and made it difficult for us to get moving again after a wonderfully long visit with the whole family. We were well and truly stuck in an elephant traffic jam! Matt expertly managed the situation and we moved slowly through the herd. A couple of members objected, and Mrs Matriarch made resounding stomach grumbles, which we felt right to the bone..

By the time we were back at the lodge and had tucked into all 3 dinner courses, we were alerted to a violent rustling in the bin area behind the kitchen. Honey badgers! One of beasts’ most fearless members had returned to nThambo Tree Camp and was determined to find some tasty leftovers. We shot up stalked him as far as we could before catching his rear end disappearing into the dark.

While we were being distracted by the antics of the honey badger, a small herd of 6 or 7 elephants had sidled up to the birdbath right next to our dinner table. A big momma and her baby drank first, as we stood merely 5 metres away, then the others stepped forward to drink. Their low, alto grumbles reverberated through the ground, but they were unfazed by our awe-struck presence. Photographs were difficult because of the poor light, but the experience was unrivalled; an extra special safari treat for the 6 of us guests at nThambo.

Just as we thought the show must be over, a spotted hyena entered the light surrounding the lodge. Walking on its own, it appeared to be on a mission, but slowed down to give us the once-over before skulking around the perimeter of the boma. We later heard that Matt was on his way to his room at this time and soon realised he was being followed by this lone hyena!

Needless to say, we went to bed hearing the eerie call of hyenas beginning their night’s hunt. The excited ‘whooooop’ was interrupted only by the distant roaring of those ‘ngala’ we are yet to find. Let’s just say our ears are pricked and our eyes are peeled and we are learning a lot about the paw prints of lions, as Isaac, our Shangaan tracker pays close attention to the evidence on the ground.

A safari to write home about with Africa on Foot

My exhilarating stay with Africa on Foot began with a transfer to the lodge with game ranger Enoch. While bobbing around on the back of the safari vehicle I kept my eyes peeled for a chance at spotting wildlife – you never know when something wonderful could pop out from behind a bush!

In between my mistaking a distant rock for an elephant and a tree stump for an impala, Enoch chatted away, telling me about the lodge’s history, the close bond the staff share and the naughty honey badgers that have been known to raid the lodge, crack open the liquor and pass out on occasion. I couldn’t have been more excited to begin my stay at the lodge and I arrived just in time to head off on a game drive…

Tracking the big five

I have no idea what they make Land Rovers out of these days, but boy-oh-boy did that safari vehicle deserve a badge after tackling the high-energy wildlife tracking mission we were on!

Within the first ten minutes of being on the prowl, Enoch received word that there were lions crossing the reserve, on their way out into the Timbavati. He politely turned around and said in his best English accent “Hold on, tight.” Grinning, I firmly grabbed the bar in front of me, and off we went. Arriving in the nick of time we watched as two lionesses casually slipped their way past our safari vehicle and out of Klaserie Private Nature Reserve. Wow.

A lioness in Klaserie Private Nature Reserve

A lioness walks right past our safari vehicle.

As we drove away from the sighting, we came across an elephant and her cheeky calf who playfully trumpeted his inexperienced trunk at us. Boom, around the corner and a pair of rhino… and the next corner a herd of buffalo!

It was as if Africa on Foot were employing these creatures to be at a certain place at a certain time to ensure we finished the game drive in absolute awe. Of course it’s all down to the sheer skill of wildlife tracking, but what a day!

To add to the already incredible experience in the reserve, we stopped to watch the sunset while we sipped on a brewsky and nibbled on traditional South African snacks of biltong and dried fruit squares. Having seen four of the big five on the game drive already, we were all perfectly content with heading back to the lodge to rehash the excitement of the day’s sightings. Next thing we know, we’re all back in the safari vehicle tracking a leopard. How Enoch managed to navigate his way around massive thorn trees, shine a steady spotlight, and radio in the sighting at the same time is beyond me. With that kind of go-getter spirit we got our leopard sighting… and bragging rights that go with it.

Watching leopard in Klaserie Private Nature Reserve

Tracking leopard while on an evening game drive.

The festive chatter around the fire pit that evening sparked a great atmosphere. The only time there was silence was when we all tipped our heads backwards to watch the brilliant stars sparkling overhead.

A safari on foot

At Africa on Foot, each day began before sunrise, heading off on a walking safari. On foot you get a far more intimate experience with nature. It’s just you, miles of stretching African landscape, the wild creatures that call this place home, and of course, your game ranger and his rifle.

During the stroll I learned so much about the wild. I learned how to track wildlife, which footprints belong to which animal, as well as useful survival tricks, like which tree’s leaves Bear Grylls would use for toilet paper if he were ever in the need of soft, safe material. Important stuff.

Ever heard of a game called Spit the Bokdrol? Enoch drew a line in the sand about 2 metres away, over which we all had to try to spit an antelope dropping. I popped the grass pellet into my mouth and gave it a go. My shot wasn’t the furthest, but I put in a good effort.

Walk on the African track

If I wasn’t found tucking into the delightful buffet spread of breakfast, lunch or dinner, I was taking a dip in the pool, reading or heading off on a game drive. As you can see, apart from the morning walking safari there wasn’t much physical exercise happening, so I asked if there was perhaps a safe track or trail where I could work off my second helping of last night’s dessert. I was in luck! There is a dirt road that encircles the lodge, so I grabbed my partner and we ventured off for a few laps, sure to use the knowledge acquired on the morning walking safari to identify various types of plants and wildlife tracks.

Sleeping in a tree house

You have the option of trading in a night in your chalet for a night’s sleep in a tree house, a few hundred metres away from the lodge. So my adventurous streak and I decided to give it a go. The tree house is a three storey, rustic structure with no doors or walls, only the most incredible 360 degree views of the surrounding reserve. I spent an utterly amazing night up there, falling asleep to the sound of the call of lions and hyena, and wondering what was happening out there…

Tree house accommodation at Africa on Foot

A rustic tree house with the most beautiful view of Klaserie Private Nature Reserve.

Africa on Foot delivered in every way. The accommodation was magnificent. The food was worth the hunt for extra exercise. The wildlife sightings were out of this world. The staff were just so friendly, fun and ready to help, and as for Enoch, well any game ranger who can spot a three-inch, camouflaged chameleon in a tree, at night honestly deserves their weight in gold.

Small things build a great safari at nDzuti

On my third day at nDuzti, I sat on the porch watching tree squirrels scurry from trunk to trunk while a hungry hare hoppity-hopped its way across the expansive green lawn in search of nosh. To my left, slow-motion giraffes drank from a waterhole, while their fellow thirst-quenched impala-friends succeeded in restlessly scaring each other into a scatter, like a bunch of nervous guinea fowl. That’s when I realised that even without spotting the big five in the last couple days, my safari experience at nDzuti would’ve been just as spectacular.

Welcome to nDzuti

The untarred road leading up to the safari lodge slithered through grassland broken by Acacias, elephants and giraffes. I arrived at nDzuti having just experienced a transfer which doubled as a game drive, and was greeted with a warm welcome by Bruce and Judy who run the lodge.

The thatched lodge gives off a homely atmosphere with its leather couches, Honesty Bar and feel-good art that hangs on the walls. Although, the enormous showers are nothing like I’d have at home. Seriously, the shower is large enough to comfortably accommodate a post-game-drive scrub-down with you, your significant other and a baby elephant.

Welcome to nDzuti Safari Camp!

Venturing off into the wilderness

Klaserie Private Nature Reserve shares an unfenced border with Kruger National Park which means you’re in big five territory.

Each morning our day started at 5:45 am with a cheerful wake-up call through the bedroom door. On the other side of the door, a light breakfast and piping hot cup of coffee awaited… as did the excitement of an early morning game drive. The guides have an incredible amount of knowledge and didn’t miss an opportunity to share quirky stories and fun facts with us as we ventured further into the reserve, spotting wildlife and brilliant bird life along the way.

Impala grazing in Klaserie Private Nature Reserve.

Satisfying more than a taste for the wild

I don’t know how they found her, but their cook – Mama Sienna – is what I call an African queen of the kitchen. The joy in her smile almost outshone the gratefulness in mine when I thanked her for the most delicious spinach pie I’d ever tasted.

Breakfast, lunch and dinner had to be the most scrumptious, love-filled feasts you could wrap your tongue around in that part of the world. To top the dining experience off, meals were rolled out on a viewing deck overlooking a well-attended waterhole. It was also the perfect spot for reading, taking a dip in the turquoise pool, or gathering around the fire pit.

nDzuti’s pool ready to refresh.

The fire side banter

In the evening I gathered around the open-air fire pit with guests from around the world. With my hands wrapped around a frosty Savanna from the Honesty Bar, we all exchanged stories of our travels and previous game drive sighting experiences. We laughed, swapped email addresses and enjoyed the magical atmosphere that the stars overhead and the call of wild dogs lent to the experience.

With so much to see, photograph, eat and enjoy, the evening could’ve quite possibly been ticking into the wee hours. All I know is that by 9 pm it felt like midnight and it was time for bed.

As I curled up under the down duvet, I silently thanked past guests for the shining reviews they had left on Trip Advisor, which fuelled my excitement for experiencing nDzuti.

So when I think about it, seeing the big five on a safari is only a fraction of the enjoyment of the experience as a whole. A safari is about so much more than just tracking wildlife, and I feel nDzuti understands exactly that.