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Exclusive Big 5 game drives with Nokana

At which other safari camp are you transported to not only the Kruger National Park, but 3 different private reserves in the Kruger region? A week spent at Nokana Safari Camp introduces guests to 3 different game viewing experiences in reserves all within an hour of Nokana’s peaceful home-base.

Never have I been so close to an elephant – in fact, this friendly cow did some investigating of her own gliding her trunk along the frame of the vehicle – and never have I been invited to approach cheetah on foot. Another first was driving through a herd of about 200 buffalo at an almost touchable range. These experiences are only a few of the many exceptional and very special moments had on 3 different game drives with Nokana.

Out of a 7-day itinerary, Nokana guests will visit the Kruger Park (twice) plus 3 of Kruger’s prime surrounding game reserves: Karongwe, Thornybush, and Tshukudu. Covering as much wildlife territory as that means that you can almost guarantee seeing a bigger variety of species and diversification of animal behaviour than at one reserve over 3 days. Here are a few highlights from each of these private reserves – all experienced within 3 days:

A hippo-occupied dam in Karongwe Game Reserve

Karongwe

We were woken up with a warning from Michel (owner-host-guide at Nokana Safari Camp) that Karongwe is a few degrees colder than the other reserves, so we had best pack scarfs and jerseys. Only a 20-min drive from Nokana, it is astonishing how the morning chill is felt at Karongwe, however, by 10am you will find yourself in short-sleeves again.

Karongwe is beautiful with its rocky landscape and presence of large dams and rivers. We travel off-road and experience a true 4×4 drive as our guide navigates the rocks and trees in search of animals. This time we were following a lead to a pride of lions, and we were well rewarded. A beautiful, big, unscarred male lion lay very relaxed in the shade of a rocky outcrop. His lady-friend and 4 young cubs were actively moving in the direction of water. One by one, each of the 4 cubs trotted in front of our stationary vehicle, following their mother who had already slinked passed the tracker’s seat keeping a careful eye on our movements.

One of the 4 playful lion cubs seen on game drive in Karongwe Game Reserve with Nokana.

Our tracker at Karongwe stays cool as the lioness prowls passed him.

The beautiful male lay in the shade as we edged in closer to get some pictures of him.

After this fantastic lion sighting, we trundled along in the warming morning sun to a spot in the bush where we parked. Our guide asked us to get off the vehicle, for now we were going into the long-grass on foot! We walked in single file and without talking until we came to a halt only a few metres from 2 resting cheetahs. These cats are the most endangered big cats on the planet, and they have some of the most specialised hunting behaviour. It was incredible to watch these 2 brothers panting in the sun, while we stood in the very same grass and snapped away a thousand pictures.

2 Male cheetahs lay in the grass as we stood back and watched.

Thornybush

When we visited Thornybush Private Game Reserve (bordering the Kruger Park), we enjoyed some beautiful rhino interaction and we got to watch the guides’ tracking process from beginning to end. As we set off on game drive, it was obvious that our guide and tracker were going to give us the authentic experience. These animals are wild, and it takes a fair amount of work to track them down – something that guests are not always aware of.

Within a couple of minutes, we were directed to look at the perfect outline of a rhino in the sandy road. Evidence that a white rhino had slept there the night before and had only recently moved. The shape of the head, ear, eye and horn were carefully carved in the sand, while its bulk had hollowed out a body-shaped dent alongside it. The tracker quickly pointed right and the driver followed his direction, and sure enough, on a sunny mound of grass was not only 1, but 4 rhinos happily grazing away. What a pleasure and a delight to watch these 4 interacting. A calf and its mother had met up with a big bull and another male. We watched them for a while before moving on in search of more.

This little rhino calf was grazing away next to its companions in the morning sun.

‘More’ certainly was the operative word. We followed an exceptional amount of dung and hoof-prints until we found ourselves smack-bang in the middle of an enormous herd of buffalo. Many, many babies, big-bossed bulls, and one very old looking cow surrounded us on all sides. They were unfazed by our presence and continued to graze and amble around us. It took a while before we cleared the herd and found ourselves alone again.

Very old buffalo cow has lived a long life in the brutal African bush.

Up close with a buffalo in Thornybush.

Tshukudu

I had one of the best cheetah sightings I think I will ever have at Tshukudu. There are 3 resident cheetahs (a female and 2 males) that are familiar faces in the reserve and they go about their business paying no mind to visitors like us. We caught the female beginning her night hunt and watched as she perched on top of a hill and surveyed the area. Then she trotted through the grass and lay in wait near the waterhole.

Tshukudu’s female cheetah takes a high perch as she eyes around for potention prey.

And she’s off…

This fantastic cat was only 1 of the cat species we were to see that evening at Tshukudu. We approached a pride of lions with large cubs and sat and watched them being the lazy cats they are. A male and female pair, however, treated us to some dramatic vocalisations, sending their vibrato into the darkening surroundings and stunning us all into silence.

Watch the video of the lions roaring here: http://youtu.be/2E64ZUgb0ig?list=PLzb0VX34oCV1jjNV_XrirNfGB9PBIy1cY

Tshukudu is home to only a few elephants and the matriarch seems to like it that way. She is an enormous, old girl, currently raising her daughter’s daughter. We saw this big female and the baby, as well as a teenaged-sized one browsing in a quiet area of the reserve. When the matriarch emerged from the bushes, she greeted her younger companion with a flap of the ears before turning her attention to us and coming right up to the vehicle. She was gentle, curious, and very relaxed with our presence. A heart-stopping moment that I now cherish as a personal encounter with these wonderful, great creatures.

Tshukudu’s big matriarch approaches her companion in greeting.

Exploring the Kruger National Park with Nokana Safari Camp

As a part of Nokana Safari Camp’s exceptional line-up of activities, guests are taken on full day trips to the Kruger National Park twice a week. Not only is the Kruger South Africa’s most famous wildlife kingdom, it is also brimming with game activity and its surface area is compared to the size of Wales!

Rising with the birds at the crack of dawn, we gathered at the bar/lounge area and were offered coffee, toast and rusks before heading off to get to the Kruger gates as they open for the day. Orpen Gate has a reputation with owner-host-guide Michel, who claims that this short stretch of tar road has churned out some of his best sightings. We were alert with anticipation after our 45 minute drive from camp and our eyes were peeled.

Sure enough, in those first couple of kilometres we had elephant browsing the trees right next to the road and a trio of rhino further back, while a pair of endangered Southern ground-hornbills crossed the road, unfazed by our presence. (Side note: birders keep your eyes peeled. Kruger has over 500 species that you can spot in the sky, in the trees, on the road, in the grass, and at the water’s edge).

Southern ground-hornbill spotted near Orpen Gate in the Kruger National Park.

Getting up close with the elephants of the Kruger National Park.

That day we were headed for a private off-road trail near Satara (one of the rest camps in the park). So not only are we seeing what the ‘regular Kruger’ has to offer, but we are getting a closer look at the private, seldom visited 4×4 trails that only certain people have access to. On the way to the Mananga Trail we had added to our immense list of animal sightings with incredible elephant sightings, lazy lions, wallowing hippos, a fish eagle, kudus, baboons, and a snoozing scops owl.

This large dam in the Kruger National Park was filled with hippo and a whole host of other species (can you see the fish eagle?)

This baby giraffe was still very young. It crossed the road in front of our vehicle to join its mother.

The Satara area of Kruger is open and flat, somewhat resembles the Masai Mara in Kenya. It is very beautiful, and we were heading into our own private sector where we would be able to get out and picnic privately (sandwiches, fruit and cold drink was the order of the day), and enjoy exclusive sightings of a great array of animals without having to share. We were welcomed to the Mananga Trail by circling bateleur eagles and 2 secretary birds, which was very special. Along the riverbank we were torn between watching a pod of hippos exhale their great, spraying breaths, and admiring a herd of elephants drinking from and swimming in the river.

We watched these elephants crossing the river, frolicking and drinking before bathing themselves in dust and moving off.

One large tusker seen near Satara. He was trying to keep cool by flapping his hears and throwing dust over his back.

Every bend in the road was occupied by either, kudu, impala, waterbuck, zebra, or a combination of the species. The ungulates are followed by a noisy collaboration of oxpeckers, fork-tailed drongos and lilac-breasted rollers eagerly awaiting a rogue grasshopper, or the likes. After passing a particularly large family of waterbuck, we managed to photograph a white rhino cow and her grown calf, grazing quietly behind a group of giraffes. We saw more hippos and buffalo before heading back into the public section of the park.

This big family of waterbuck all stood up to watch us drive passed.

Lilac-breasted roller on the lookout for leaping grasshoppers and other grubs.

Beautiful sight of this mamma rhino and her big calf. Oh, and the giraffes!

With only an hour or so left of our full Kruger day trip, we had to make our way to the park gates. Of course, we took the scenic route and passed a pride of lionesses lying in the grass, a crocodile sunning itself on a riverbank, some saddle-billed storks perched in a tree, a martial eagle, more elephants, and finally 2 male cheetahs beginning to hunt. What a lucky spot! (Excuse the pun). We departed the Kruger as the sky burnt red with the last bit of the sun’s energy, and by the time we got back to Nokana Safari Camp it, it was dark and starry.

The biggest eagle in Africa – the martial, perched on a lookout spot.

One of 2 brother cheetahs we saw prowling through the grass on our way to the Orpen Gate, Kruger.

The setting sun on Kruger.

As is routine at Nokana, we were given an hour to refresh, relax and unwind before settling down to dinner. I retreated to my luxury room where I put together a gin and tonic from the mini bar and pulled up a chair on my private veranda. I sped through my photos and smiled at the memory of the wonderful creatures I had seen that day. After that sentiment, I set about deleting all the unfocused and duplicated images because tomorrow was to be yet another day at Nokana, in yet another reserve, and I knew I would need to camera space!

Elephants and lions visit nDzuti Safari Camp in time for dinner

The dinner table at nDzuti Safari Camp. Under the stars and next to a crackling fire. Photo by Kevin MacLaughlin.

nDzuti Safari Camp has a strategically placed waterhole right in front of the expansive deck, adorned with sun loungers and, of course, the bar. In between game drives (which also take place mercifully later than at the crack of dawn) guests have nDzuti’s wonderful, green garden to relax in; either in the shade of the fever trees, or in the warmth of the sunny deck.

On this particular occasion, the guests at nDzuti were settling in for evening sundowners when a herd of elephants arrived for their sunset drink at the waterhole. Just when they thought the show was over and settled down for dinner under the stars, the arrival of 2 sub-adult male lions stole the limelight. All in an evening here at nDzuti!

nDzuti by night. The deck, pool area and bar all overlook the waterhole. Photo by Kevin MacLaughlin.

The biggest land mammals and certainly one of the Big 5, elephants can be some of the most entertaining creatures to watch. From breeding herds with babies, to lone bulls, elephants are everything from comical, to mesmerising, to nerve-racking. What a pleasure to have them come right up to the waterhole and bestow their gentle beauty.

The 2 male lions that visited next had caused quite a stir only a day or 2 earlier when they and 2 brothers were chased off a buffalo kill by one big dominant lion. It seems they survived the aggressive confrontation, and 2 of the lions had found their way to nDzuti’s waterhole where they lay, quite relaxed, providing a superb sighting right in front of camp.

On warm Klaserie evenings, dinner (scrumptiously home-cooked) is served on the deck too and, more often than not, there are nocturnal creatures that arrive to drink. Hyenas, honey badgers, civets, and jackals make regular appearances, while a giant eagle owl sends deep ‘whoooo’ sounds into the night.

On one occasion, a ‘clan battle’ between 2 groups of hyenas broke out and the silence was struck with excitable cackling and eerie shrieks from both sides of the camp. Close by, the hyenas called to each other, sending warnings and threats into the still night. We saw one or 2 of these predators running under the light at the waterhole, but we eventually just turned it off and listened to it play out. Another incredible experience from the deck at nDzuti, where guests can sit in comfort and have the Klaserie come to them!

Kevin MacLaughlin took this shot of a hyena at the waterhole the night of the clan battle.

Family Fun at nDzuti Safari Camp – by Kathryn Rossiter

nDzuti Safari Camp is something quite different. It is a personalised experience, it is private, and it is perfect for families. Recently, Kathryn Rossiter, owner of Becoming You, spent some quality time there with her young children. It can be tricky finding a safari spot that suits your kids’ needs and offers parents the equal right to relax and enjoy as those on a child-free holiday!

Kathryn wrote about how much her children thrived out in the bush (their first time on safari), and how happy she was to be able to experience big game viewing with them. Monster herds of buffalo, superb sunsets, and being taught facts about the bush from the warm and welcoming hosts.

See her blogs that tell the stories using great photos and offering excellent tips to other parents heading out into Africa with their young ones.

Kruger for Kids – Day 3 at nDzuti Safari Camp

Kruger for Kids – Day 4 at nDzuti Safari Camp

nDzuti Safari Camp and gardens.

The firepit (always flaming at night) overlooking the waterhole.

The bar and pool at nDzuti.

Looking over the Klaserie River on game drive at nDzuti.

Game drive has begun!

Trilogy Males feast on giraffe

Guests at Africa on Foot and nThambo Tree Camp were treated to a fantastic sighting of the Trilogy Males feasting on a male giraffe. The rangers had noticed the giraffe looking worse for wear and feared that it would not last long. The Africa on Foot and nThambo Tree Camp rangers suspect that the Trilogy males started to feed once the giraffe had died from natural causes. Often, however predators will not feed on animals that have died from tumours or disease, so there is a possibility that the lions killed the giraffe in its weak state or even started to feed on it while it lay down to rest and did not have the strength to get up.

Based on where the carcass is, the Trilogy males are deep within Ross Pride territory, so it is assumed that the remainder of the Ross pride have retreated deeper into the Klaserie to avoid them in their quest to save their cubs.

Guest David Williamson was kind enough to share this video clip

Africa on Foot ranger Fafa Pienaar captured the below images.

One of the Trilogy males see at the carcass.

One of the Trilogy males aiming to rule the Ross Pride

Cute Videos of Baby Hippo, Elephant and Giraffe

Who doesn’t love the “cuteness” factor when it comes to wildlife? Dave Jackson has captured a few precious moments on camera of an elephant, giraffe and hippo calf eagerly discovering the world around them.

These videos were filmed at nDzuti Safari Camp in the Klaserie Private Nature Reserve. The dam, which is close to nDzuti, is frequented by a diverse array of wildlife. Dave was lucky enough to be in the right place at the right time !

If you subscribe to our nDzuti wildlife moments playlist, you’ll be rewarded with videos of sightings at nDzuti Safari Camp.

Baby Hippo Clings to its Mother

A hippo calf will always cling to its mother for protection. Hippos walk on the bottom of rivers and dams, creating pathways. A calf does not have the strength and balance to wade through water until it has reached the age of two.

Baby Elephant Tries to Use its Trunk

An elephant calf cannot control its trunk and learns “trunk control” by exploring its immediate environment and touching the rest of the herd. The matriarchs and herds are protective over their young. When they feel threatened the elders will surround the calf in an attempt to hide it. Dave was lucky to be able to capture this moment.

Have you Ever Seen a Baby Giraffe?

A giraffe calf has a short neck when it is born and does not move around a lot. The short neck provides additional camouflage. Yet another great video moment from Dave !

Open Party at nDzuti Dam. All Wildlife Welcome.

As the sun kissed the morning and peeked through our bedroom curtains like an unwanted peeping Tom; we knew instantly knew what time it was. Game drive time. Chloe and I are now staying nDzuti Safari Camp which is run by Judy and Bruce Meeser – relics of the safari industry. Bruce animatedly claims that the wildlife in his area of the Klaserie are lazy and slow to rise; and that our game drive only needed to start at 8. We were only too happy to hear that our drive started at a reasonable hour. However, 8 in the morning when you’re on safari is still early – if you’ve been on safari you’ll know how often you need to sleep. Stepping out of the city and into the bush always makes me feel like I have been bitten by a Tsetse fly.

We departed at 8 and headed towards a rocky outcrop littered with flecks of Mica. The scenery was phenomenal. Rocky outcrops protrude over a reed covered flowing river with sandy riverbanks. Plains game seemed to be scattered throughout the traverse but not much else was spotted. I guess Bruce was right – nothing was awake. We stopped, had coffee and headed back to camp for breakfast.

A few hours later, Bruce suggested that the wonders of the Klaserie would be awake and we needed to observe the world coming alive. We headed straight to the nDzuti dam and a spectacle unfolded before us.

We observed a spoonbill lapping up water and frolicking on the shore. Then came the bloat of hippos and an endearing moment to follow. Out of the depths of the water arose a hippo calf who desperately clung to its mother’s back. On the opposite side of the dam, 4 giraffe approached. Gingerly they walked towards the water and scoped out the landscapes for predators. Our spoonbill had the courage of a honey-badger and the confidence of a lion. It waded past the hippo, around the dam and stood in front of the towering griaffe. The giraffe decided not to drink and awkwardly stumbled backwards at the mere sight of the spoonbill. This was interesting behaviour. When did one of nature’s towering beasts become so scared of a harmless bird? Who knows – but it did make us laugh. In the midst of giggles (homosapien species) we heard the crunching of leaves and the breaking of twigs. Behind us was a herd of elephants led by three impressive tuskers.

We sat for hours observing the natural behaviour of these incredible creatures. Numerous species of bird flew past us and there we sat – with our bird book, cameras and beers. Hours passed and the activity kept getting better and better. Eventually the herd of elephant came down to drink – much to the disgust of the hippo. A warthog scurried past, hoping to go unnoticed. Giraffe eventually decided to drink after flirting with the idea for quite some time. Giraffe are overly cautious and very indecisive ! Kudu, impala and zebra all decided to join the party.

Eventually we had to leave. We had overstayed our welcome and at some stage, the party had to come to an end.

What I love about nDzuti is their flexibility in terms of guests’ needs and their friendly, welcoming atmosphere. Not once do you ever get that over-commercialized safari camp feel that so many lodges are guilty of doing. nDzuti certainly hasn’t sold its soul to tourism. My suggestion when staying here? Always trust Bruce. He knows best.

The Klaserie River which is within the nDzuti traverse.

Kevin MacLaughlin filming the elephant herds.

Kevin and Chloe observing the wildlife party at the dam.

Giraffe drinking from the waterhole (finally made up its mind and drank).

Hippo calf wants to be on its mom’s back !

Oxpecker relaxing on a hippo..on a hippo !

Can you spot the hippo calf?

The spoonbill and the giraffe. Spoonbill behaved “Like a boss”.

The ever-confident spoonbill staking its claim at the dam.

This giraffe finally decided to drink.

Giraffe decides whether it wants to drink…or not.

One of the elephants decided to investigate the barking sounds coming from the hippo.

Spot the warthog sprinting past the elephant herd !

Beautiful tuskers drinking from the nDzuti dam.

Elephants drinking from the dam. Pretty spectacular !

This happened shortly after the hippo bellowed from the water. Seems like this elephant was pushed into checking out the scene !

Elephants drinking from the dam. Beautiful reflections !

Bruce Meeser, owner of nDzuti Safari Camp, watches elephants with us.

The impala eventually joined the party !

A zebra foal wanting to join the party at nDzuti Dam.

The only way to make game viewing extra exciting. With a traditional South African cider !

Chilling with Mila and Lisa from the Ross Pride of Lions

We arose to yet another cool, crip morning here in the Klaserie just in time for our early morning game drive in our famous open-topped Land Rover called Air Force One. Even though I felt like 40 ice-blocks had slapped my body, I still managed to get up. This morning was one of the coldest days we’ve experienced this week. But it was well-worth it in the end.

As we clambered into our vehicle we heard that Ngala had been spotted at Jason’s dam. Ngala in Shangaan means lion and these local terms for wildlife are often bandied about regularly among rangers. With much excitement and elation we approached Jason’s dam. Two females from the Ross Pride were sitting quite happily on the sand, basking in the sun. The lionesses we spotted were Mila and Lisa from the Ross Pride. Lisa is the older of the two and is clearly aging. It seems both females had just devoured a huge meal. They were relaxed with the vehicles and had Kwashiorkor sized bellies. A few low-growls mingled with gentle purrs could be heard as we fluttered the lenses of our cameras.

When lions find a food source they gorge until they cannot move. They tend to eat and then traverse their way to the nearest waterhole for their “after dinner drinks”. Kevin MacLaughlin managed to capture fantastic video footage of Mila and Lisa, which we will upload shortly. Mila and Lisa were quite happy to have us there. We even managed to capture Matt and his guests enjoying the sighting.

En route to the Jason’s dam we found an elephant herd, giraffe and a plethora of bird species. An exceptional morning of game viewing spent chilling with Mila and Lisa from the Ross Pride.

Article written by Carolynne Higgins

Connecting with the Elephants of the Klaserie

It’s winter here in the Klaserie and the breeding herds of elephants are in abundance. Winter time means that the vegetation is sparse and water sources are scarce. The once lush green thickets have turned into dry, amber colour grasses and wildlife becomes desperate for water. This is the season when our wonderful pachyderms, the gentle giants of Africa, can be seen drinking from lodge swimming pools and waterholes. These soft-hearted herbivores thrive in sloshy mudholes and require clean drinking water to replenish themselves. If it looks clean, they will drink it. Chlorine from a swimming pool? That simply doesn’t phase elephants. At the moment, the elephants in this area are on the move in search of pockets of fresh water.

On our first game drive in the Klaserie we ended up in the midst of a large breeding herd of elephants. Elephants live in a fission-fusion society where large groups come together to socialise and rear their young. When a calf is born the matriarchs of the herd will teach their young the skills necessary to survive in the wild. When we were on our game drive we actually ended up in the midst of a large herd of elephants dispersed on either side of the road. There were a number of young elephants which put us in a precarious situation. Elephants work together as a community and any perceived threat to their young would see the older bulls chasing our vehicle. We witnessed the matriarchs surround the young calves as they moved across the road. A cow has a gestation period of 22 months – I am not surprised she wants to instinctively protect her young ! We did encounter the wrath of a sub-adult male who attempted to mock charge the vehicle. Our ranger Matt had it under control and we switched off the vehicle, kept still and watched him charge off in a huff.

We watched a calf running after its parents. It’s an adorable scenario and quite something to witness. A calf has no control of its trunk and its limbs lack direction. Their ears flap and they attempt to scare the vehicle. Watching an elephant calf play tough? Probably one of the highlights of any safari.

We have seen the herds twice now. The second time proved to be nothing short of dramatic. As the sun set golden light bathed the desperately dry bush. Dust from the moving herd created quite the postcard setting. It’s moments like these that I find difficult to describe. The tranquility of nature and being surrounded by wildlife makes you feel completely connected to the earth.The sound of an elephant’s stomach rumbling mingled with the smells of fragrant vegetation is not something you can can describe with words. My suggestion? Get to nThambo Tree Camp.

When we returned to the lodge we spent some time star gazing and noticed a herd approaching the waterhole right in front of the breakfast table. It seems the elephants are quite a common sighting during the winter months. Or should I call it..the elephant months?

Below are a few images of our time spent connecting with elephants. When you’re observing Africa’s giants look into their eyes – you can see emotion.

5 Facts About Elephants:

Elephants live between 50 – 70 years old.
Elephants hug each other by wrapping their trunks affectionately around one another.
Bulls become aggressive during “musth”, which is their mating season. You will know a bull is in musth when you see secretions from its temporal lobe staining the side of his head.
Elephants are creatures of habit and follow a daily routine.
The mud baths? it’s a thermo-regulatory exercise. Putting a layer of dust or mud traps a layer of cool air close to the skin.

Article written by Carolynne Higgins

What is it like to Self-Drive from O.R. Tambo Airport to Kruger?

Chloe Cooper and I were asked to spend time blogging and tracking wildlife in the Klaserie Private Nature Reserve. Having spent time at nThambo Tree Camp, Africa on Foot and nDzuti Safari Camp; we knew what lay in store for us. Needless to say, we were delighted and overcome with glee at the prospect of spending 10 days on a “road trip” together. nDzuti has fantastic food, nThambo has wooden treehouses on stilts and Africa on Foot offers incredible wilderness walking safaris. And, lest I forget, both Chloe and I will get to spend time with legendary wildlife photographer and ranger, Kevin MacLaughlin. Throw Isaac and Enoch (the Shangaan trackers) into the mix and you have the ultimate safari.

I wanted to write about our self-drive experience from O.R Tambo to the Kruger because it is an area often neglected. We give our guests directions to the camps but we have yet to describe the trials and tribulations of the journey. Before I delve into the wonders of the Klaserie, let’s chat about our road trip. You will have to forgive my lack of images – photos of potholes in Lydenburg and factories in Witbank weren’t worth the click of a button.

After disembarking from our flight and feeling overwhelmed with excitement, we managed to eventually settle down and collect our car from Budget Rent a Car. An embarrassingly gawdy gold Toyota was bestowed upon us. We hopped into the vehicle and headed out.

As we left O.R. Tambo airport we took the Boksburg turn-off. A quick 5 minutes later we slipped onto the Witbank/eMahaleni turn off (N4 or N12). From here we drove straight along the innocuous, mind-numblingly boring N4 road for a good few hours. Even an amoeba would get bored with this stretch of road.

The first toll plaza is close to Middleburg. By this stage our caffeine addiction started rearing its ugly head, so we stopped at garage which served Vida coffee.This is the perfect stop for coffee snobs and city slickers who balk at the idea of instant cofffee with UHT Long Life milk. After going through the toll plaza (cost is R47.00) we continued driving the same straight route on the N4. The scenery here begins to get slightly more interesting and this region is considered to be the start of the Panorama route.

Between Belfast and Machadodorp is the incredible “Millys” restaurant. I recommend stopping here for lunch. It is a trout farm with exceptional views and great food. Adjacent to the restaurant is a farm stall boasting an array of African arts, crafts and local delicacies. After Chloe bought a beaded necklace and I tried on all the safari hats, we continued along the same road going past Machadodorp and to the Machado toll gate.

The fantastic Millys restaurant, close to Middleburg.

We took the R36 to Lydenburg/Mashishing and the Schoemanskloof turn-off and headed in the direction of Ohrigstad. We drove through Lydenburg and eventually came across the Ohrigstad/Pilgrims Rest signboard. The board is located at a faded Stop street and you can’t miss it. Well, we missed it. But that’s only because we were talking too much.

The worst part of our journey was driving the Lydenburg and Ohrigstad stretch. Both Chloe and I felt like we were on a badly designed rollercoaster because of the potholes, which are notorious in this area. Drive slowly and carefully – the potholes will ambush you.

After driving for a couple of hours we approached an extensive, hilly pass called the Abel Erasmus pass. With its dramatic views of lichen covered mountains enveloping the road, its cascading waterfalls and breathtaking views; it’s was a welcome reward after a long drive. This pass actually links Limpopo and Mpumalanga and is still on the R36 (between Ohrigstad and Hoedspruit). The pass follows the edge of the Blyde River Canyon and local workers sell their arts and crafts on the side of the road. The roads here are also tricky and certain sections have been washed away from landslides and rockfalls.

After driving through the Strydom Tunnel we took the R527 to Hoedspruit. Now here is where we made a minor error. Just before Hoedspruit there is a sign to Hoedspruit (R40)/Orpen Gate/Klaserie urging you to turn right. Do not take this turn-off ! If you find yourself driving past the silk farm you have taken the wrong route. We drove into Hoedspruit and took a right turn at the traffic lights, then left towards Hoedspruit airport.

We entered through the Timbavati control gate and drove towards the Enkule gate. We were actually meant to drop our car off at Hoedspruit Airport but it closed at 15:00. Our rangers met us and we went with them to camp. The Enkule gate, which leads into the Klaserie Private Nature Reserve, charges a conservation levy of R140 and you will need to pay cash. If you decide to self-drive all the way to your camp then be aware of the speed limits and watch out for animals en route.

Africa on Foot and nThambo Tree Camp are roughly a 20 minute drive from the gate and nDzuti Safari Camp is about an hour. You will need to consult the camps for directions from the Enkule gate. Alternatively, pre-arrange a meet and greet at the gate and follow your ranger to camp.

The journey takes roughly 8 hours but is easy to navigate. Leaving at 8 in the morning is a reasonable time and gives you time to stop for lunch at Millys.

After arriving, Chloe and I tucked into some Kleine Zalze Merlot, chatted to the rangers and retired to our wooden treehouse chalets.

Tomorrow is another day. Lets hope we have a successful day of wildlife viewing ! In the meantime, I recommend the Merlot…

Welcome to nThambo Tree Camp.

Chloe Cooper takes time out to relax and bird watch.

After a long journey, we relax in the lounge at nThambo.

Article written by Carolynne Higgins