Sun Destinations Blog - Page 109 of 119

Open Party at nDzuti Dam. All Wildlife Welcome.

As the sun kissed the morning and peeked through our bedroom curtains like an unwanted peeping Tom; we knew instantly knew what time it was. Game drive time. Chloe and I are now staying nDzuti Safari Camp which is run by Judy and Bruce Meeser – relics of the safari industry. Bruce animatedly claims that the wildlife in his area of the Klaserie are lazy and slow to rise; and that our game drive only needed to start at 8. We were only too happy to hear that our drive started at a reasonable hour. However, 8 in the morning when you’re on safari is still early – if you’ve been on safari you’ll know how often you need to sleep. Stepping out of the city and into the bush always makes me feel like I have been bitten by a Tsetse fly.

We departed at 8 and headed towards a rocky outcrop littered with flecks of Mica. The scenery was phenomenal. Rocky outcrops protrude over a reed covered flowing river with sandy riverbanks. Plains game seemed to be scattered throughout the traverse but not much else was spotted. I guess Bruce was right – nothing was awake. We stopped, had coffee and headed back to camp for breakfast.

A few hours later, Bruce suggested that the wonders of the Klaserie would be awake and we needed to observe the world coming alive. We headed straight to the nDzuti dam and a spectacle unfolded before us.

We observed a spoonbill lapping up water and frolicking on the shore. Then came the bloat of hippos and an endearing moment to follow. Out of the depths of the water arose a hippo calf who desperately clung to its mother’s back. On the opposite side of the dam, 4 giraffe approached. Gingerly they walked towards the water and scoped out the landscapes for predators. Our spoonbill had the courage of a honey-badger and the confidence of a lion. It waded past the hippo, around the dam and stood in front of the towering griaffe. The giraffe decided not to drink and awkwardly stumbled backwards at the mere sight of the spoonbill. This was interesting behaviour. When did one of nature’s towering beasts become so scared of a harmless bird? Who knows – but it did make us laugh. In the midst of giggles (homosapien species) we heard the crunching of leaves and the breaking of twigs. Behind us was a herd of elephants led by three impressive tuskers.

We sat for hours observing the natural behaviour of these incredible creatures. Numerous species of bird flew past us and there we sat – with our bird book, cameras and beers. Hours passed and the activity kept getting better and better. Eventually the herd of elephant came down to drink – much to the disgust of the hippo. A warthog scurried past, hoping to go unnoticed. Giraffe eventually decided to drink after flirting with the idea for quite some time. Giraffe are overly cautious and very indecisive ! Kudu, impala and zebra all decided to join the party.

Eventually we had to leave. We had overstayed our welcome and at some stage, the party had to come to an end.

What I love about nDzuti is their flexibility in terms of guests’ needs and their friendly, welcoming atmosphere. Not once do you ever get that over-commercialized safari camp feel that so many lodges are guilty of doing. nDzuti certainly hasn’t sold its soul to tourism. My suggestion when staying here? Always trust Bruce. He knows best.

The Klaserie River which is within the nDzuti traverse.

Kevin MacLaughlin filming the elephant herds.

Kevin and Chloe observing the wildlife party at the dam.

Giraffe drinking from the waterhole (finally made up its mind and drank).

Hippo calf wants to be on its mom’s back !

Oxpecker relaxing on a hippo..on a hippo !

Can you spot the hippo calf?

The spoonbill and the giraffe. Spoonbill behaved “Like a boss”.

The ever-confident spoonbill staking its claim at the dam.

This giraffe finally decided to drink.

Giraffe decides whether it wants to drink…or not.

One of the elephants decided to investigate the barking sounds coming from the hippo.

Spot the warthog sprinting past the elephant herd !

Beautiful tuskers drinking from the nDzuti dam.

Elephants drinking from the dam. Pretty spectacular !

This happened shortly after the hippo bellowed from the water. Seems like this elephant was pushed into checking out the scene !

Elephants drinking from the dam. Beautiful reflections !

Bruce Meeser, owner of nDzuti Safari Camp, watches elephants with us.

The impala eventually joined the party !

A zebra foal wanting to join the party at nDzuti Dam.

The only way to make game viewing extra exciting. With a traditional South African cider !

Chilling with Mila and Lisa from the Ross Pride of Lions

We arose to yet another cool, crip morning here in the Klaserie just in time for our early morning game drive in our famous open-topped Land Rover called Air Force One. Even though I felt like 40 ice-blocks had slapped my body, I still managed to get up. This morning was one of the coldest days we’ve experienced this week. But it was well-worth it in the end.

As we clambered into our vehicle we heard that Ngala had been spotted at Jason’s dam. Ngala in Shangaan means lion and these local terms for wildlife are often bandied about regularly among rangers. With much excitement and elation we approached Jason’s dam. Two females from the Ross Pride were sitting quite happily on the sand, basking in the sun. The lionesses we spotted were Mila and Lisa from the Ross Pride. Lisa is the older of the two and is clearly aging. It seems both females had just devoured a huge meal. They were relaxed with the vehicles and had Kwashiorkor sized bellies. A few low-growls mingled with gentle purrs could be heard as we fluttered the lenses of our cameras.

When lions find a food source they gorge until they cannot move. They tend to eat and then traverse their way to the nearest waterhole for their “after dinner drinks”. Kevin MacLaughlin managed to capture fantastic video footage of Mila and Lisa, which we will upload shortly. Mila and Lisa were quite happy to have us there. We even managed to capture Matt and his guests enjoying the sighting.

En route to the Jason’s dam we found an elephant herd, giraffe and a plethora of bird species. An exceptional morning of game viewing spent chilling with Mila and Lisa from the Ross Pride.

Article written by Carolynne Higgins

Connecting with the Elephants of the Klaserie

It’s winter here in the Klaserie and the breeding herds of elephants are in abundance. Winter time means that the vegetation is sparse and water sources are scarce. The once lush green thickets have turned into dry, amber colour grasses and wildlife becomes desperate for water. This is the season when our wonderful pachyderms, the gentle giants of Africa, can be seen drinking from lodge swimming pools and waterholes. These soft-hearted herbivores thrive in sloshy mudholes and require clean drinking water to replenish themselves. If it looks clean, they will drink it. Chlorine from a swimming pool? That simply doesn’t phase elephants. At the moment, the elephants in this area are on the move in search of pockets of fresh water.

On our first game drive in the Klaserie we ended up in the midst of a large breeding herd of elephants. Elephants live in a fission-fusion society where large groups come together to socialise and rear their young. When a calf is born the matriarchs of the herd will teach their young the skills necessary to survive in the wild. When we were on our game drive we actually ended up in the midst of a large herd of elephants dispersed on either side of the road. There were a number of young elephants which put us in a precarious situation. Elephants work together as a community and any perceived threat to their young would see the older bulls chasing our vehicle. We witnessed the matriarchs surround the young calves as they moved across the road. A cow has a gestation period of 22 months – I am not surprised she wants to instinctively protect her young ! We did encounter the wrath of a sub-adult male who attempted to mock charge the vehicle. Our ranger Matt had it under control and we switched off the vehicle, kept still and watched him charge off in a huff.

We watched a calf running after its parents. It’s an adorable scenario and quite something to witness. A calf has no control of its trunk and its limbs lack direction. Their ears flap and they attempt to scare the vehicle. Watching an elephant calf play tough? Probably one of the highlights of any safari.

We have seen the herds twice now. The second time proved to be nothing short of dramatic. As the sun set golden light bathed the desperately dry bush. Dust from the moving herd created quite the postcard setting. It’s moments like these that I find difficult to describe. The tranquility of nature and being surrounded by wildlife makes you feel completely connected to the earth.The sound of an elephant’s stomach rumbling mingled with the smells of fragrant vegetation is not something you can can describe with words. My suggestion? Get to nThambo Tree Camp.

When we returned to the lodge we spent some time star gazing and noticed a herd approaching the waterhole right in front of the breakfast table. It seems the elephants are quite a common sighting during the winter months. Or should I call it..the elephant months?

Below are a few images of our time spent connecting with elephants. When you’re observing Africa’s giants look into their eyes – you can see emotion.

5 Facts About Elephants:

Elephants live between 50 – 70 years old.
Elephants hug each other by wrapping their trunks affectionately around one another.
Bulls become aggressive during “musth”, which is their mating season. You will know a bull is in musth when you see secretions from its temporal lobe staining the side of his head.
Elephants are creatures of habit and follow a daily routine.
The mud baths? it’s a thermo-regulatory exercise. Putting a layer of dust or mud traps a layer of cool air close to the skin.

Article written by Carolynne Higgins

What is it like to Self-Drive from O.R. Tambo Airport to Kruger?

Chloe Cooper and I were asked to spend time blogging and tracking wildlife in the Klaserie Private Nature Reserve. Having spent time at nThambo Tree Camp, Africa on Foot and nDzuti Safari Camp; we knew what lay in store for us. Needless to say, we were delighted and overcome with glee at the prospect of spending 10 days on a “road trip” together. nDzuti has fantastic food, nThambo has wooden treehouses on stilts and Africa on Foot offers incredible wilderness walking safaris. And, lest I forget, both Chloe and I will get to spend time with legendary wildlife photographer and ranger, Kevin MacLaughlin. Throw Isaac and Enoch (the Shangaan trackers) into the mix and you have the ultimate safari.

I wanted to write about our self-drive experience from O.R Tambo to the Kruger because it is an area often neglected. We give our guests directions to the camps but we have yet to describe the trials and tribulations of the journey. Before I delve into the wonders of the Klaserie, let’s chat about our road trip. You will have to forgive my lack of images – photos of potholes in Lydenburg and factories in Witbank weren’t worth the click of a button.

After disembarking from our flight and feeling overwhelmed with excitement, we managed to eventually settle down and collect our car from Budget Rent a Car. An embarrassingly gawdy gold Toyota was bestowed upon us. We hopped into the vehicle and headed out.

As we left O.R. Tambo airport we took the Boksburg turn-off. A quick 5 minutes later we slipped onto the Witbank/eMahaleni turn off (N4 or N12). From here we drove straight along the innocuous, mind-numblingly boring N4 road for a good few hours. Even an amoeba would get bored with this stretch of road.

The first toll plaza is close to Middleburg. By this stage our caffeine addiction started rearing its ugly head, so we stopped at garage which served Vida coffee.This is the perfect stop for coffee snobs and city slickers who balk at the idea of instant cofffee with UHT Long Life milk. After going through the toll plaza (cost is R47.00) we continued driving the same straight route on the N4. The scenery here begins to get slightly more interesting and this region is considered to be the start of the Panorama route.

Between Belfast and Machadodorp is the incredible “Millys” restaurant. I recommend stopping here for lunch. It is a trout farm with exceptional views and great food. Adjacent to the restaurant is a farm stall boasting an array of African arts, crafts and local delicacies. After Chloe bought a beaded necklace and I tried on all the safari hats, we continued along the same road going past Machadodorp and to the Machado toll gate.

The fantastic Millys restaurant, close to Middleburg.

We took the R36 to Lydenburg/Mashishing and the Schoemanskloof turn-off and headed in the direction of Ohrigstad. We drove through Lydenburg and eventually came across the Ohrigstad/Pilgrims Rest signboard. The board is located at a faded Stop street and you can’t miss it. Well, we missed it. But that’s only because we were talking too much.

The worst part of our journey was driving the Lydenburg and Ohrigstad stretch. Both Chloe and I felt like we were on a badly designed rollercoaster because of the potholes, which are notorious in this area. Drive slowly and carefully – the potholes will ambush you.

After driving for a couple of hours we approached an extensive, hilly pass called the Abel Erasmus pass. With its dramatic views of lichen covered mountains enveloping the road, its cascading waterfalls and breathtaking views; it’s was a welcome reward after a long drive. This pass actually links Limpopo and Mpumalanga and is still on the R36 (between Ohrigstad and Hoedspruit). The pass follows the edge of the Blyde River Canyon and local workers sell their arts and crafts on the side of the road. The roads here are also tricky and certain sections have been washed away from landslides and rockfalls.

After driving through the Strydom Tunnel we took the R527 to Hoedspruit. Now here is where we made a minor error. Just before Hoedspruit there is a sign to Hoedspruit (R40)/Orpen Gate/Klaserie urging you to turn right. Do not take this turn-off ! If you find yourself driving past the silk farm you have taken the wrong route. We drove into Hoedspruit and took a right turn at the traffic lights, then left towards Hoedspruit airport.

We entered through the Timbavati control gate and drove towards the Enkule gate. We were actually meant to drop our car off at Hoedspruit Airport but it closed at 15:00. Our rangers met us and we went with them to camp. The Enkule gate, which leads into the Klaserie Private Nature Reserve, charges a conservation levy of R140 and you will need to pay cash. If you decide to self-drive all the way to your camp then be aware of the speed limits and watch out for animals en route.

Africa on Foot and nThambo Tree Camp are roughly a 20 minute drive from the gate and nDzuti Safari Camp is about an hour. You will need to consult the camps for directions from the Enkule gate. Alternatively, pre-arrange a meet and greet at the gate and follow your ranger to camp.

The journey takes roughly 8 hours but is easy to navigate. Leaving at 8 in the morning is a reasonable time and gives you time to stop for lunch at Millys.

After arriving, Chloe and I tucked into some Kleine Zalze Merlot, chatted to the rangers and retired to our wooden treehouse chalets.

Tomorrow is another day. Lets hope we have a successful day of wildlife viewing ! In the meantime, I recommend the Merlot…

Welcome to nThambo Tree Camp.

Chloe Cooper takes time out to relax and bird watch.

After a long journey, we relax in the lounge at nThambo.

Article written by Carolynne Higgins

Video of Trilogy Lion Mating with Ross Lioness

Dave Jackson was lucky enough to capture one of the Trilogy males mating with one of the Ross Pride females. In the background we have one of our rangers chatting to us about the mating process with lions.

More importantly, it is now confirmed that the Trilogy of lions are now firmly in control of both the Ross and Giraffe Pride. The Trilogy were found on a buffalo kill yesterday and this morning. Unfortunately, Dave and Kevin could not get footage as the lions were deep in cover on a drainage line.

Last night the Trilogy were spotted with 2 of the Giraffe pride females – one had a collar around its neck. The spotlight fused so, once again, Kev and Dave could not get any footage.

Goodbye to the Good and the Bad – the Trilogy now run your kingdom.

Busted ! Photos of the Lion Trilogy Mating with Ross Females

What has been happening the past few days in the land of the Klaserie lions? Well, for starters, one of the Trilogy males was caught mating with a Ross Pride female. We caught the act on camera. It is now clear that the Trilogy want the Ross Pride for themselves. Kevin MacLaughlin took these images – he is always in the right place at the right time !

The Trilogy have been spotted hanging around a few buffalo herds in the past few days. This morning, Courteney Blunden, let us know that the Trilogy took down a buffalo. We’ll get those photos up as soon as we can.

In the meantime, enjoy these photos of the Lion Trilogy mating with the Ross females.

Keep reading our blog posts – the blogging team will be heading up to Africa on Foot and nThambo Tree Camp in the next few days to capture the action live from camp !

Trilogy Mating - image taken by Kevin MacLaughlin

One fo the Trilogy males mating. Image taken by Kevin MacLaughlin.

Trilogy and Ross female after mating. Image taken by Kevin MacLaughlin

5 Fun Facts About the Flap-Neck Chameleon

A few days ago we shared a video of the flap-neck chameleon on our social media channels. Spotting a chameleon always proves to be a highlight of any night game drive. They are tricky to spot because of their mottled green camouflage which ensures they’re well-hidden. Rangers always seem to have fun trying to see how many of these elusive creatures they can spot on a night game drive. Spotting a chameleon in the pitch dark means you have great tracking skills. Try and count how many you can spot the next time you’re out on a drive.

Here are 5 fun facts about the flap-neck chameleon:

Chameleons rarely ever rest on strong branches. They will deliberately choose weak, hanging branches. The majority of heavy predators cannot balance on narrow, flimsy branches.
Its name comes from the flap at the back of its neck, which helps with it camouflage.
The flap-necked chameleon has a body with mottled greens – similar colours to their habitat in trees.
The chameleon moves with staggered motions to emulate that of the wind blowing through the leaves in the trees.
Chameleon literally means “dwarf lion”. The name is appropriate due to its aggressive, defensive behaviour.

The Flap-neck chameleon found in abundance in the Klaserie. Photo taken by Kevin MacLaughlin

Video of the Lion Trilogy After Charging Vehicle

Mike Lentz, together with Dave Jackson, took this video of the Trilogy of lions. The video was taken shortly after one of the lions charged the nThambo game vehicle. In the video we can hear Mike and Isaac discussing the Trilogy and the pride dynamics.

Fantastic to hear their opinions captured on video with the sounds of the African bush in the background. Takes me right back to being in the Klaserie.

Trilogy and Ross Pride Update: Lion Charges Vehicle in Klaserie

As we suspected, the Trilogy of lions trying to take over the Ross Pride kingdom are a fierce coalition of lions. We have just heard from the team at nThambo Tree Camp that one of the Trilogy charged the game vehicle. One of the males came towards the vehicle and Isaac, our quick-witted tracker with lightning fast reflexes, climbed onto the bonnet for safety.

It is clear the Trilogy will “take no prisoners” in their quest to dominate the Ross Pride’s kingdom. They are trying to establish their place in the Klaserie and appear to be on the offensive. This is possibly because they are also mating with Mila; which makes them more aggressive and protective than ever before. Mila and Lisa are the 2 Ross Pride females who were hanging around the 3 Giraffe males. Lisa is lactacting which indicates the presence of cubs. We believe her cubs are in the Timbavati.

Does this mean that the Trilogy will kill off the Lisa’s cubs (infanticide) to force her back into estrus? Either way, the Trilogy are now showing us just how fierce and determined they are.

We will upload a video of the Trilogy of lions later on today.

The moment of truth. This is when one of the Trilogy charged the vehicle. Photo taken by Erik Kristin

Battle wounds. This is a tough trio. Photo taken by Dave Jackson

The stare down. Why are you on my turf? Photo taken by Dave Jackson

If looks could kill. This male from the Trilogy looks on with interest.

The Trilogy of Lions are Causing Drama for the Ross Pride

A lioness in Klaserie Private Nature Reserve

A lioness walks right past our safari vehicle.

There’s a buzz in the air in the vicinity of nThambo Tree Camp. Daily we are receiving updates about how the “Trilogy” of male lions are slowly creeping their way into the Ross Pride territory. It was subtle at first and now they are being quite bolshy about their intentions. Initially they appeared skittish with the rangers and game vehicles. It seems the Trilogy of lions are now relaxed and comfortable with the presence of outsiders. Do they feel at home in their new environment? Is that why they feel so comfortable?

The legendary leaders, The Good and the Bad, have not been seen in a while. However, the sub-adult males and females from the Ross Pride have been spotted. You can see them strolling around their territory in the videos we uploaded yesterday. Today, we feel the presence and strength of the Trilogy moving into Ross Pride territory. The dynamics of the Ross Pride of lions are literally changing on a day-to-day basis.

Check out our latest two video blogs depicting these interesting scenarios:

Compare the videos we have uploaded and observe the ever increasing confident behaviour from these new boys on the block. The Triology really are causing drama for the Ross Pride.

The Trilogy of lions are causing drama for the Ross Pride. But hey, this is Africa. Kings cannot always remain kings. New bloodlines must be created, warfare happens and only the strong survive. Welcome to the world of lions.