Guest Blog: Mike and Fiona Enjoy Lion Sightings at nThambo Tree Camp

    Guest Blog: Mike and Fiona Enjoy Lion Sightings at nThambo Tree Camp

    nthambo-emgatland

    Mike and Fiona left Umkumbe Safari Lodge and headed for nThambo Tree Camp in the Klaserie Private Nature Reserve. Here is their account of life at the nThambo Tree Camp.

    “Well here we are back at nThambo Tree Camp, it seems like only yesterday we were last here! We have been here 2 days already, and have had magnificent game viewing so far – the “Big 5” plus my favourite, the African Wild Dog.

    We arrived on a cold cloudy afternoon, but our spirits were still high as we went out on our first game drive. Firstly we came across a large bull elephant rubbing himself against a tree to get rid of an awful itch (or maybe just parasites). Then we came across a large herd of buffalo, minding their own business eating their way through the bush. The icing on the cake, however, was an exceptional leopard sighting, well 2 leopards to be exact.

    We saw  Cleo, the resident female leopard, in the dark via the spotlight, relaxing in the distance with a full belly.  Suddenly another leopard appeared by her side, her son, no longer a cub as almost as big as her. He walked straight towards us, very relaxed around he vehicle. We stayed with him for some time whilst we took photos of him, before he vanished back into the bush to join his mother.

    The following morning was just as good. A we left camp we came across a pack of 9 wild dogs, sleeping in the shade, their ears twitching, listening to the sounds of the bush. Suddenly something spooked them and they all scattered into the bush, except the alpha male we stood on sentry duty, listening out for danger. He stood in front of the vehicle for a short time, before he too disappeared. Over the radio came a call that some of the Ross pride of lions had been seen on the other side of he reserve. We sped as fast as we could, but the female and 2 sub-adult males had vanished just before we arrived. A little disheartened we continued on our way, to be greeted by a large breeding herd of elephants, then a ‘dazzle’ of zebra, before we got back to camp.

    Our prize came later in the day, as we came across 2 Ross pride females lionesses, relaxing in the  sun – making up for our disappointment the evening before. We stayed with them while they licked each other, yawned and then doing what all contented cats do best – fell asleep. Leaving them to their afternoon nap in peace we carried on our way, passing another large elephant bull.

    This morning we were eager to spot rhino, the last of the big 5 not seen so far. And how lucky we were to come across 3 together, a bull, a female and her calf moving slowly through the greenery. They too were OK with us being there and posed nicely for a photo shoot. Afterwards we came across another herd of buffalo, still sleeping by the side of the road, as well as some kudu and another lone elephant. Back at the lodge we discussed how lucky we had been to see not just the Big 5, but 6 of the Magnificent 7 – “only the cheetah to go” we told Matt and Enoch, so no pressure for future drives!

    We also saw lots of the nocturnal animals during the 2 night drives so far – porcupine, bushbaby, genet, chameleon and scrub hare, to name a few. It’s so nice to see the small things that most travellers overlook whilst on safari. Matt, our ranger, has also been persuaded by us as a group of keen guests to take us on a few ‘bush walks’ after breakfast. Here we have seen lots of small day-time things like, birds, trees, plants, animal dung and tracks. It was nice to see that a female leopard had walked through camp last night, while we were all asleep, leaving her paw-prints behind as evidence. Although not expecting to see anything larger we have been fortunate to see impala, zebra, warthogs, kudu and today we saw a hippo relaxing in a nearby dam – quite different to see on foot rather than on a vehicle.

    So what will the next few days hold for us – well you’ll just have keep reading and wait and see?”

     

    Buffalo in the Klaserie

    A Lone Cape Buffalo is Spotted in the Klaserie

     

    Cape Buffalo - Klaserie Private Nature Reserve

    Herd of Cape Buffalo in the Klaserie Private Nature Reserve

     

    White Rhino Klaserie

    White Rhino – Our Beautiful Species

     

    Ross Pride Lioness

    One of the Ross Pride Females Enjoying the Sun

     

    Klaserie - Ross Pride - Female

    One of the Ross Pride Females Relaxing in the Sunshine.

     

    Ross Pride Female Relaxing in the Sun

    Why is this Ross Pride Female Licking her Lips?!

     

    Woodland Kingfisher - Birdlife

    A Woodland Kingfisher – The Klaserie is Famous for its spectacular birdlife

     

     

     

    Guest Blog: Mike and Fiona Arrive at Umkumbe Safari Lodge

    Guest Blog: Mike and Fiona Arrive at Umkumbe Safari Lodge

    Mike and Fiona Clark are repeat guests of ours that return annually to the Klaserie Private Nature Reserve. This year, they broke the routine a bit and decided to stay at Umkumbe Safari Lodge in conjunction with their stay in the Klaserie. We encouraged them to explore the Sabi Sand Private Nature Reserve.

    Here’s what they had to say about their time at Umkumbe and their sightings:

    “How time flies, and here we are again back in South Africa. We thought we’d try something a little different to start our holiday, and have decided to spend a night in the World famous Sabi Sand Private Game Reserve just on the border of Kruger National Park.  We arrived at our lodge – Umkumbe Safari Lodge, in late afternoon, to be greeted by 2 old buffalo sleeping in the ‘Sand riverbed’ in front of the lodge. What a great greeting and a lovely outlook whilst sipping cold beer by the pool. After a very hearty ‘light lunch’ (now I know why there is a gym on site – to work off those extra calories!) we set off on our first afternoon/evening game drive.

    We were on the lookout for the Sabi Sand leopards. The weather, unfortunately, was overcast and a little cold and windy, so game viewing was going to be rather hard. However, not long into the drive we came across a large heard of over 300 buffalo, with lots of small calves. This is always a good sign. We stayed with them for a while and then headed on in search of leopards. We passed plenty of general game including zebra, impala and waterbuck. As it got dark we saw the nocturnal animals coming out, including scrub hare and the rarely seen white tailed mongoose. But unfortunately, the leopards were being elusive – but there is always the morning drive.

    The following morning, whilst having early morning coffee, we were told that 2 male leopards had been spotted late in the night in the riverbed just in front of the lodge – the tracking was on!!! We jumped quickly into the vehicle, eager to find the leopards. Leopards are renowned for being very relaxed around the safari vehicles (which is why many people choose to visit Sabi Sand Private Game Reserve). We looked and looked, following tracks, but the leopards were hiding. Whilst looking we found tracks for the endangered African Wild Dog – no sign of them either!!

    Suddenly over the radio we heard that one of the male leopards had been found, slowly walking down the road. We raced over to find him. How beautiful he was, and so relaxed -walking in the road, scent marking, resting and trying to catch lunch (a little scrub hare that ran off into the bush). We spent well over an hour with him. We followed him and he was oblivious to our presence, carrying on with his own thing. He then vanished into he thick bush, so we carried on our way – to be greeted by a large male rhino (or Umkumbe, that the lodge is named after). Then over the radio we heard they found a second male leopard, following in the tracks of the first male leopard. He too was relaxed, walking down the road, so we went to have a look at him.  He was bigger than the first leopard, but still as relaxed, walking close to the vehicles until he too vanished into the bush. What a game drive -totally living up to the brochure and the famous sightings of Sabi Sand Private Game Reserve.

    Back at camp we were relaxing over lunch, reminiscing over the leopard sightings, when a pack of 11 wild dogs were spotted in the distance, crossing over the Sand river. What a fabulous end to a great day and our first visit to the Sabi Sand Private Game Reserve.”

     

    Wild dogs on the Sand River in the Sabi Sand Private Gme Reserve. Photo by Mike and Fiona Clark.

    Wild dogs on the Sand River in the Sabi Sand Private Gme Reserve. Photo by Mike and Fiona Clark.

     

    Umkumbe Safari Lodge sign

    Sign at the Umkumbe Safari Lodge

     

    Swimming pool at Umkumbe

    The view of the Sand River from the Umkumbe Safari Lodge pool.

     

     

    Leopard at Umkumbe Safari Lodge

    Leopards spotted while on a game drive at Umkumbe Safari Lodge. Photos by Mike and Fiona Clark.

     

    Umkumbe Safari Lodge

    Views of the Sand river from the Umkumbe Safari Lodge. Photos taken by Mike& Fiona Clark.

     

    Leopards in the Sabi Sand Private Game Reserve

    Exquisite shot of a leopard in the Sabi Sand Private Game Reserve. Photos by Mike and Fiona Clark.

     

    Game Drive Umkumbe Safari Lodge

    Leopard spotted on a game drive at Umkumbe Safari Lodge. Photo taken by Mike & Fiona Clark

    Ross Pride vs NEW Trilogy of Lions: Next Few Days Could Be Crucial

    Ross Pride vs NEW Trilogy of Lions: Next Few Days Could Be Crucial

     

    When I was in the Klaserie drinking those drams of whisky with the Ross Pride of lions; I felt like there was something missing – and it wasn’t ice in my drink. While watching the pride relaxing in the thicket it became clear what was missing – the two dominant leaders, The Good and the Bad.  These legends have apparently moved further up into northern territories, leaving behind a coalition of sub-adult males seemingly wanting to make their mark as future leaders.  Are they exercising their natural instinct in wanting to rule a pride? Are they the reason the Good and the Bad have migrated north? Only time will tell ! We cannot confirm anything yet but there is plenty of interesting lion activity at Africa on Foot and nThambo. It appears there are other lions wanting the Ross Pride territory. Read on…

    In recent weeks a trilogy of 3 males have been spotted in the Ross territory. They appear to have come over from the Kruger National Park. They have been seen marking their territory and exercising their vocal chords during the dead of the night which means they certainly have no intention of leaving. They want all and sundry to know they have arrived.

    What will happen to the Ross pride? Will they be involved in a showdown? Who are these swashbuckling, sophisticated, golden-haired boys wanting to take over? Kevin Maclaughlin maintains that, although the trio is strong, the Good and the Bad are tough and can hold their own.  Over the weekend there were suspicions that both the Good and the Bad had returned to re-unite with the pride.

    Kevin says,  “We had a herd of buffalo close to the camp and after all the guests went to bed; we heard 2 male lion roaring close to the buffalo. We woke up the guests and took them out around 11:00pm to try find them. We did catch a glimpse of a lion which we believe was the “Good”, and not too far away (unfortunately in another property) we heard another male lion calling out to the male we saw. If the lion we saw was the “Good” then the other lion call must have been from the “Bad”, otherwise there would have been some serious conflict. Another thing which makes us believe it was the Good and Bad is the fact that the Ross Pride started calling out to them from another property. They appeared to be heading closer to their position. If these males weren’t the Good and Bad, then the Ross pride would have kept quiet. This morning we saw the tracks of the Ross pride come through camp but were unable to locate them.”

    Only time will tell if this was the legendary Good and Bad returning to claim their pride. Change for the Ross Pride could be upon us.

    If that’s not enough we have another spanner in the works. There are now 4 lions who have crossed over into the Ross territory. Last night they took refuge at the Africa on Foot camp and hid behind the swimming pool.

    Kevin said, “When we got back from the night drive we walked into these 4 lions. When myself and Faffa arrived, which was before morning coffee ( at about 05:10am),  we found the Ross Pride sub-adult males growling at these two new younger males which were submissive and very nervous.” These 4 lions (2 females and 2 males) understand they are not welcome and want to remain hidden. They are desperate to find their way out of the Ross pride turf.

    The next few days in and around camp is going to be a crucial time. How will these trilogy of imposters fit into the picture? Will these new lions eventually find their way out of the local area?  And, ultimately, will there be a battle between the golden-hair trilogy and the rugged Good and the Bad?

    Comment on this post and let us know what your predictions are for the future of the Ross pride.

    Watch this space – or reserve a place at Africa on Foot and nThambo to watch history in the making.

     

    Male Lions in the Klaserie

    These are two of the new males – part of the trilogy. Very strong and healthy looking; but are they tougher than the Good and the Bad?

     

    Video of the Southern Pride of Lions in the Sabi Sand Private Game Reserve

    Video of the Southern Pride of Lions in the Sabi Sand Private Game Reserve

    When Dave Jackson spent time at Umkumbe Safari Lodge in January this year, in the Sabi Sand Private Game Reserve, he was lucky enough to video the famous southern pride of lions. The mega-pride has grown in size and is currently 28 members strong. Four of the females gave birth to 12 new cubs and the pride is divided into females with cubs and females without. Males are from the Sand River pride and there is also a rather dominant presence from the Kruger Park male. Watch this space as we delve into the history of the southern pride in the next few weeks. In the meantime, enjoy this video of the lions in the Sabi Sand Private Game Reserve.

    Safari 10

    New Lion Cubs Born in the Kalahari

    New Lion Cubs Born in the Kalahari

    A pregnant lioness is seen striving against the harsh semi-arid desert conditions trying to find a potential den site for her unborn cubs. She eventually finds a safe haven in a thicket of vegetation just 4 km outside of the Haina Kalahari Lodge. A few weeks later, she gives birth to 4 lion cubs. Needless to say, the team from Haina were ecstatic that new lion cubs have been born into the Kalahari. The cubs were spotted for the first time a week ago and they are currently 6 – 7 weeks old. Heloise Smit took the below images.

    Lion cubs are notorious for their low survival rate in the wild and, on average, only 1 in 8 cubs reach maturity.  Why does this happen? A lioness normally keeps her cubs in one area, generally in the thicket of bush where predators cannot find them.  When she goes off to hunt the cubs are left alone, making them vulnerable to predators.  If she is killed during a battle the cubs are orphaned – the rest of the pride will not know where the cubs are located. Coupled with this, when the cubs are old enough to be introduced into the pride there are internal pride “politics”.  Often thesub-adult males within prides want to mate with females. They often kill off young cubs within their own pride as this sends the females back into oestrus. There are many threats to lion cubs !

    So, with all this knowledge about the dynamics of lion prides, you can imagine how incredible it was to photograph these cubs. We are hoping these lion cubs born into the Kalahari reach maturity.

    In the meantime, here are a few facts about lions of the Kalahari and how they differ from other lions:

    • The mane of the Kalahari lion is black and/or dark in colour. This has to do with genetic conditions and type of climate.
    • Kalahari lions are larger in size and stature than the other lions of southern Africa.
    • They have a strong resistance to thirst and can go for 2 weeks without water.

    We will keep you updated with news about the lion cubs that are traversing the Haina territory.

     

    Pregnant Lionness

    This heavily pregnant lioness was spotted a couple months ago on the periphery of the Haina Kalahari Lodge.

     

    Kalahari lioness

    Pregnant lioness roaming in the Kalahari – nearly ready to give birth!

     

    Lion cubs at Haina Kalahari Lodge

    One of the cubs born into the pride – photo by Heloise Smit

     

    Lion Cubs Born at Haina Kalahari Lodge

    One of the adorable lion cubs born at Haina Kalahari Lodge – photo by Heloise Smit

     

    Lion Cubs in Kalahari, hiding in the thicket

    The cubs were located roughly 4km from the lodge – photo by Heloise Smit

     

    Lion Cub with Mother

    Mother protecting its new born cub. They are still in the den site.

     

    Lion cubs and mother

    Lion cubs of the Kalahari being protected by their mother – photo by Heloise Smit.

     

    Tired lion cub

    Time for a nap ! Photo by Heloise Smit.

     

    Lion Cub - - Heloise Smit

    Sleeping lion cub takes time out from playing – photo by Heloise Smit.

     

     

     

     

     

     

    Hair-Raising Situation with a Puff Adder in the Kruger

    Hair-Raising Situation with a Puff Adder in the Kruger

    Ranger Kevin Maclaughlin, from nThambo Tree Camp, came face to face with a venomous puff adder. Being an avid photographer and passionate herpetologist, he decided to get up close and personal with this beautiful creature. Dave Jackson captured this hair-raising situation with a puff adder in the Kruger on video. No injuries were sustained during the making of this video – Kevin is an experienced ranger.

    The puff adder is one of Africa’s most venomous snakes that has a deadly concoction of Cytotoxic venom. The venom destroys the tissues around the site of the bite and considerable tissue damage will ensue. However, snakes normally only bite when they are stood on or under threat.

    Here are a few facts about the puff adder:

    • They are relatively dull in colour. Their only distinct markings are dark chevrons on their tan or brown body.
    • The puff adder ambushes its prey. It is slow-moving and cumbersome but has a quick strike rate.
    • It is one of Africa’s most venomous and deadly snakes.
    • It’s name is derived from the fact that the snake puffs up when threatened.

     

    Drinking Glen Grant Whisky with Lions in Africa

    Drinking Glen Grant Whisky with Lions in Africa

    I never drink whisky and when I do, it’s normally mixed with coke. I never hang out with lions and when I do, I don’t normally drink whisky. Especially not Glen Grant single malt Scotch whisky.

    Ok, let me back track a bit and briefly tell you how we ended up drinking whisky with lions in Africa. The past few days my colleague Zeena and I have enjoyed a blissful adventure uncovering the secrets of the Klaserie Private Nature Reserve. You guessed it – we’re on a safari in the Kruger ! Our final stop, after an incredible time at nDzuti, was Africa on Foot and nThambo Tree Camp. Having visited both these camps beforehand we knew what was in store for us. The quick-witted Shangaan trackers Isaac and Enoch made a few dry comments when we arrived and had us in hysterics with their random comments throughout most of our trip.

    Our main aim was to see the Ross Pride of lions. We heard that the two dominant males, the Good and the Bad, had disappeared. While tracking the Ross pride we managed to see zebra, giraffe, warthog, tawny eagle, hippo, elephant calf and a giant eagle-owl. Spotting wildlife roaming free in the reserve is always breathtaking experience.

    Our 3 hour morning walk at Africa on Foot saw us confronting a matriarch elephant and two lone giraffe. When we weren’t spotting game, we were eating and drinking. After 3 hearty meals a day I managed to split my jeans. Luckily this was on the last day. That’s the beauty of going on safari – it’s more than just game viewing. It’s an experience.

    So, back to the whisky and the lions. How did this happen? Well, suffice to say, after much searching we eventually found the Ross Pride of lions. We were not leaving until we found our pride!

    Here’s what went down. On our last night Brett, Zeena, Dave (videographer) and the infectious Kevin (ranger) went on a private game drive in search of the Ross Pride. The two dominant males, the Good and the Bad, appear to have moved up into the northern territories and they have not been sighted around camp.

    The sub-adult males are trying to “lead” the pride. We needed to see this for ourselves.  It was vital that we pack a bottle of Brett’s finest whisky. Finding the Ross Pride is always a memorable occasion – and so is drinking Glen Grant. We held on tightly to the bottle, shimmied into the game vehicle and went on a mission.

    30 mins later we spotted our lions. There they were – 2 females, 2 males and 3 cubs. One of the males, who seemed quite dominant, appeared to be quite anxious and defensive – much like any teenager would be. As the sun set and night fell, the lions became a bit more relaxed.For over an hour we observed the Ross Pride’s behaviour. We sat among them, listened to their breathing, their sighing and their stomachs grumbling.  With bronze stars dotted in the night sky serving as the backdrop to the Ross Pride, it created quite an awe-inspiring moment. Out came the whisky. First one dram, then another and another !

    What a way to end our safari.

    I wonder how many people have drunk Glen Grant whisky with lions in Africa?

     

    Ross Pride of Lions - Kevin, ranger at Africa on Foot

    Organising the drinks for our mission to find the Ross Pride of lions

     

    Africa on Foot

    Departing Africa on Foot for our game drive

     

    Elephant calf

    We spotted this elephant and its mother while searching for the Ross Pride

     

    Game rangers watching the lions

    Kevin and Brett watching the Ross Pride – we finally found them !

     

    Ross Pride Males Hiding

    One of the Ross Pride males watching our vehicle closely !

     

    Glen Grant single malt whisky

    Glen Grant single malt whisky. And, this is me.

     

     

     

     

     

     

    Have you Ever Heard a Hyena Laughing?

    Have you Ever Heard a Hyena Laughing?

    Have you ever heard a hyena laughing? If not, then you need to watch this video. I have played this clip over and over; and I giggle every time.  I have never heard hyena cackle like this while attempting to steal prey.  At night you will hear hyenas making that familiar whooping sound; but to hear them cackling away is quite a rare.

    Why do hyenas make this laughing sound?

    Hyenas have a variety of vocalisations from wailing calls to howling screams and laughter. The high-pitched laughter that is produced is actually a sign of nervous energy and distress. The laughter is often heard at a kill site and produced when they are excited and in a state of conflict. It is produced when arriving and leaving a situation. In this case, they stole a leopard’s kill which left them in a state of flux. There was much excitment about stealing the kill but at the same time it was a daring thing to do ! The whooping sound made by hyenas is a long distance call to locate fellow clan members. Each hyena has a different whoop – kind of like a human’s fingerprint.

    Francois Pienaar, a ranger at Africa on Foot, took this footage while guiding in the Klaserie Private Nature Reserve.

     

    hyena searching for food

    Curious lone hyena in search of food. Image by Chad de Wet

    Enjoy a Bush Breakfast in the Kruger

    Enjoy a Bush Breakfast in the Kruger

    Yesterday was our last day at nDzuti Safari Camp. There is always a sense of sadness that descends upon you when you leave a lodge. The camaraderie around the campfire at night, the lessons learned while on a game drive and the new-found friends are just a few of the things that make you want to stay. After a few days at nDzuti we said goodbye to Bruce, Judy, AK and the team. Being pretty flexible about our schedule, Judy decided to reward us with a bush breakfast on our last day.

    After the morning game drive, AK drove us to a secret spot. Previously a boma area for avid campers, it now serves as bush breakfast/bush dinner spot. The area has a pit for a fire, wooden table and the remnants of a small outdoor jacuzzi size pool. Located high up on a plateau overlooking the river, it’s a spectacular spot. A white tablecloth laden with a feast of fruit, fried eggs, lamb chops, sausage and coffee awaited us.

    This was the first bush breakfast in the Kruger that I have experienced and there is nothing quite like the feeling of eating exquisite food in the middle of the bush.

     

    Ciena nDzuti Staff

    The fantastic Ciena cooking up a storm in the bush

     

    Bush Breakfast Area

    Views of the Klaserie River from the Bush Breakfast Area

     

    Bush Breakfast in Klaserie

    The Land Rover delivering food for our bush breakfast in the Klaserie

     

    Bush breakfast nDzuti

    Bush breakfast area around the table at nDzuti

     

    Photos from Our Game Drive at nDzuti

    Photos from Our Game Drive at nDzuti

    Here are a few snapshots from last night’s game drive at nDzuti. We managed to spot hippo walking out of a dam, giraffe and a rather anxious rhino.  While we were sitting around the campfire after our game drive, we noticed jackal, hyena and honey badgers at the waterhole. The nDzuti waterhole has seen a fair amount of wildlife activity in the past few days ! However, we have yet to spot seen the elusive River Pride of lions which have decided to go into hiding. We’ll just knock back a few gin and tonics in the mean time.

    Enjoy.

    Sunset over the Klaserie

    Sunset over the Klaserie.

     

    White Rhino nDzuti

    This rhino was a bit skittish but we were lucky to spot him.  Great sighting !

     

    Brown-snake Eagle

    Perched on the top of a tree, this Brown-snake Eagle was not going anywhere !

     

    nDzuti Game Drive Night Sky and Sunset

    Another incredible sunset and night sky in the Klaserie !

     

    Giraffe at nDzuti

    Such gentle giants. Spotting giraffe while on a game drive.

     

    Impala

    Plenty of impala during the rutting season. Look closely – there are 3 impala in this pic !

     

    impala in Klaserie

    A lone impala – let’s hope a predator doesn’t see him !

     

    Dave Jackson - videographer

    Dave Jackson – the man behind our fantastic wildlife videos !