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Safari Highlights: 3 Days at Ezulwini

It’s certainly been a whirlwind 3 days at Ezulwini game lodges in the Balule. This unfenced reserve of the Greater Kruger has an unbelievable capacity of game, and guests have just had a string of superb sightings, from an epic lion pride, to elephants rolling in the mud, to a leopard stalking impala, and a precious fleeting moment with a black rhino. Ezulwini Billy’s Lodge and River Lodge explore this highly vegetated reserve home to an abundance of general game, while dodging crocodiles and hippo along the banks of the Olifants River. This is a summary of what has gone down on game drive, giving guests a true wildlife safari experience.

Sightings of the legendary Olifants West lions have occurred on almost every drive! The pride split a few years back when the old leader died a few days after a debilitating fight with his 2 sons and a buffalo hunt gone wrong. Big Boy’s death made way for Duma and his brother to take over, but when Duma’s brother left and took half of the pride lionesses with him, the Olifants West pride became fragmented. Each half is 13 lions strong now, and holding a strong presence in the Balule. The OW Split pride has been hanging around the last couple of days.

The fleeting presence of two very special creatures made the wildlife experience at Ezulwini that much more impressive and memorable. If anyone is wondering where the term ‘leopard crawl’ came from, this is it. A leopard was spotted on the road at night crawling on its haunches, keeping as low to the ground as possible. Guests watched as the leopard stalked impala, but soon after lost vision when it moved into thick bush.

Another astonishing moment was when the critically endangered black rhino crossed the path of the game viewer before disappearing into the bush. Much shier and more aggressive than the white rhino, this elusive creature was a rare treat. With the current status of the plummeting white rhino population due to poaching, it is an honour and a pleasure to enjoy seeing them in their natural environment.

The dead of night was lit by an incredible full moon, which adds such a sense of mystical beauty to a night on safari. Illuminating the sky and blacking out most of the stars, the state of the moon was domineering, and so very photogenic. Genets, jackals, hyenas, and bush babies were spotted in the vehicle’s headlights before scampering into the bush, while a pearl-spotted owlet sat on a branch out in the open and sang its ascending-then-descending whistle into the night.

Day time at Billy’s Lodge can be spent at the viewing platform decked with couches and books about wildlife, while your very own show of mud-bathing elephants takes place at the waterhole before you. There have been some epic sightings at this waterhole over the years that one is almost tempted to camp out at the deck overnight to witness something for themselves… but the story of the epic lion battle that took place there might scare you…

Olifants West Lion Pride Portraits

These protraits of the Olifants West Pride Split have left me speechless. Jochen captured the true comradery and essence of the bond between lions in his photos. The strength and connection of the pride shines through in is photos and evokes quite a few emotions. The more I hear about this pride, the more I like them. They are the true soldiers and there is going to be quite a path ahead for this split pride.

Ezulwini River Lodge is located deep in the Balule and is home to the Olifants West lion pride. The pride was a mega-pride led by “Big Boy” who sadly was killed during battle. What a warrior. After his death, the pride split. The original Olifants West pride has Duma as the dominant male. The split seems to be 13 members strong with 6 sub-adults – quite a young pride. The original Olifants West pride also appears to have 13 members. There is so much potential for both these prides – let’s watch this space.

Below are Jochen’s exceptional portraits of the Olifants West Split. If a picture speaks a thousand words, then these speak a million.

Ezulwini Billy’s Lodge: Wildlife Central at the Waterhole

Located on a seasonal riverbed that attracts a plethora of elephant and buffalo herds, lies Ezulwini Billy’s Lodge. Welcome to the Balule Nature Reserve, where the big five roam freely between the Balule and the Kruger National Park which shares unfenced borders with the reserve. Billy’s Lodge has taken advantage of its position on the riverbed and created a rustic, wooden skywalk that meanders its way from the main lodge to a large, open viewing deck. The viewing deck gives rise to panoramic views of a waterhole in front of the lodge, which is best described as “wildlife central”.

Let’s talk about the thriving waterhole in front of the viewing deck at Billy’s Lodge. The deck is a place that lends itself to hours of lost time while gazing at wildlife in their natural element. What can you expect to see at the waterhole (aka wildlife central)? For starters, there are daily elephant sightings. These gentle pachyderms are often found wallowing in the mud and spraying water everywhere. They are also known for walking under the skywalk when guests are crossing. This seems to be a highlight for guests who delight at the close proximity of the elephants.

The waterhole is also littered with a variety of plains game, such as steenbok, impala, zebra and warthog. Rhino are spotted a few times a week and when buffalo herds come through to drink, you can expect to see herds of 200+. Although the waterhole is predominantly populated by elephant and buffalo, big cats do make an appearance. Lions tend to be seen in the dead of the night drinking at the dam. Guests often hear them roaring when they are trying to sleep. We suspect the lions are the Olifants West pride and the Olifants West split – they are the ones who dominate the area. Leopards are another species of cat seen at the waterhole. The Leadwood female leopard is the cat most commonly seen drinking from the dam. She often contact calls when she approaches the waterhole.

When I asked the lodge owner, Lauren, what the most memorable moment at the waterhole was, she had this to say, “The most memorable moment was when Big Boy, our old dominant male lion, had his last stand against his two sons who were trying to take over the pride. He lost the fight and was killed shortly afterwards trying to hunt buffalo on his own. Big Boy was a Balule legend!”

This is the wild. Just when you think it’s a quiet day at the waterhole, a historical moment happens right in front of the lodge !

The waterhole at Billy’s Lodge is a hub of activity and that viewing deck sounds like a paradise of game viewing. Catch you there!

Male lion roaring on Ezulwini game drive

There are few things more remarkable than the things that occur in nature. The food chain makes the rules, and when it comes to the food chain, lions are pretty much on top. As apex predators, most lion deaths that occur naturally are the result of lion on lion battles, or else, a hunt gone wrong. Buffalo herds turning on a lioness to save their calf from her claws can end in serious injury or death, while a giraffe hoof to the side of the head can end it all. These things are dangers to lions living in the wild, but no animals hunt lions to eat, making them, top of the food chain!

Ezulwini is in the epicentre of lion activity with 4 prides circulating the area, 2 of which belong to the Olifants West pride. Our photographers have spent a few nights at both Billy’s Lodge and River Lodge, and in only a handful of game drives have met all 13 members of the Olifants West Split pride, plus both pride leaders, and a couple of lionesses from the Olifants West pride. What a mouthful! On one occasion, OW pride leader, Duma, lay in the road and roared into the darkness for all to see, hear, and feel. What a magical moment with one of the lions of the Balule.

In the Greater Kruger, we’ve been keeping track of a number of lion prides including a pride with the white lion gene; a trio of battle-scarred males; a pride of lions along the Klaserie River; a duo of lionesses making it on their own; and the return of a pride that vanished a year ago. Now, new to our lion radar are 2 prides formed from one original pride of the Balule Nature Reserve, known as the Olifants West pride. Two brothers went their separate ways after the death of their leader, Big Boy, and the pride of lionesses split to follow them. This is Duma, he remained in old territory and has led the original OW pride since then.

Meet the Olifants West Lions at Ezulwini

When we lay eyes on new lions, an undeniable excitement courses through our veins. Sun Destinations photographer, Jochen van De Perre, locked eyes with the kings and queens of the Balule Nature Reserve recently and we can’t wait to introduce you to them. These are the Olifants West lions – a pride that was divided by the death of their 2 leaders, Big Boy and Mazinyo, and now operate as 2 halves under the dominating presence of Olifants West pride members, Duma and his brother.

Duma emerged as the dominant male of the Olifants West pride in their old territory around Ezulwini Billy’s Lodge, while his brother took off and was followed by a number of the pride lionesses. This half of the pride is now 13 lions strong, including 6 sub-adults, while the lionesses all originate from Big Boy’s inimitable Olifants West pride. Duma stayed with 3 lionesses and 6 cubs – a family born and remaining in the Olifants West lion pride.

The 2 brothers steer clear of each other, even though their prides are akin. Both magnificent males with strong prides, the genes of the original Olifants West pride are carried in both. Duma’s brother and his pride, the Olifants West Split pride (also referred to as Mohlabetsi pride) are seen around Ezulwini River Lodge, which overlooks the Olifants River, while Duma’s clan remains local to Billy’s Lodge.

We bumped into the Olifants West Split pride finishing off a warthog – well, the male had the lion’s share (pun intended) while the pride lay in the shade grooming and greeting each other. A fantastic sighting of this growing family consisting of 6 sub-adult lions. Later that night, the guests bumped into brother, Duma, who put on a remarkable roaring display right next to the vehicle. Then to finish off with a 4th lion sighting in 4 game drives (that’s 100% lion sighting success rate in our books!), guests at Ezulwini Billy’s Lodge saw Duma’s brother with a belly full of warthog on the airstrip.

BeetleCam: Unique Angles of Lions & Wild Dogs

Leading Dutch film director, Herco Van Houdt decided to place a BeetleCam in the wild to capture unique angles of wildlife. The end product was spectacular, with never-before-seen angles of our famous Ross Pride of lions. Herco spent a couple of weeks at two of our camps, nThambo Tree Camp and Africa on Foot in the Klaserie Private Nature Reserve.

When using a standard camera for filming and photographing predators it is difficlt to capture unique angles. A BeetleCam offers quirky footage and interesting vantage points of wildlife. The BeetleCam is a camouflaged, armoured remote-control buggy that houses your camera. You can place the BeetleCam in weird and wonderful areas where humans don’t have access.

Herco captured one of the Ross Pride trying to extract a warthog bone from her tooth. She eventually managed to remove the bone. The Ross Pride are quite skinny and malnourished at the moment – hopefully the warthog bone is an indication that the pride made a kill!

The breakaway females from the Ross Pride were also captured on camera. One of the curious females approached the BeetleCam, inspected it and walked away. A pack of wild dog tentatively approached the BeetleCam but seemed to be more weary of it than our Ross Pride !

Enjoy the videos and images.

Photos & videos taken by Herco Van Houdt

Africa on Foot and the 2016 Safari Awards

We are so pleased to say that Africa on Foot has been nominated for the 2016 Safari Awards alongside a number of superb lodges in South Africa. It is an honour to be recognised as one of the best in a total of 3 categories, all of which we are immensely proud: Best Guiding Team, Best Walking Safari, and Best Vaule Safari Property.

We are determined to keep it real, and to offer the most authentic safari experience around, beginning with the early morning bush walks, to lunchtime siestas by the pool (with the elephants), and ending the day around a crackling camp fire listening to the sounds of the night.

Our team of guides has been trained by the best in their respective guiding schools, and upon arrival at Africa on Foot they fall under the employ of camp co-owner, Courteney Blunden, whose passion for the bush has seen him achieve FGASA Level 3 and SKS Dangerous Game qualifications. The admiration the Africa on Foot guiding team has for the bush, and the professional manner in which they conduct themselves is what makes them some of the best in the business. Impassioned, and knowledgable, these guys have chosen their paths of life in the bush, and their enthusiasm is evident.

Walking safaris are perhaps where Africa on Foot stands out the most (it is even in its name). In a category where only 6 lodges in South Africa have been nominated, this is a true speciality field. Rising with the sun and setting off into on foot just as the bush comes alive is an incomparable experience. This is what sets Africa on Foot apart, and it is what makes guests choose to go to this unassuming safari camp over and over again.

As far as a ‘best value property’ nomination goes, Africa on Foot is one of the most affordable safari camps in the Greater Kruger Park, but the ‘value’ part only really counts when guests are receiving an experience they deem exceptional. Co-owner Cecilia Blunden (also armed with a FGASA qualification) possesses the dedication of this intimate safari camp in offering the best all-rounded adventure in the Klaserie. Africa on Foot is proof that it does not need to come at great cost.

In the categories of Best Guiding Team, Best Walking Safari, and Best Value Safari Property, we’ve been nominated to win, so if you find us worthy in any of the above , please cast your vote!

Umkumbe Safari Lodge: Meet Our Big Cats

Nestled in the heart of the Sabi Sand Wildtuin lies a quiet gem of lodge called the Umkumbe Safari Lodge. Located in one of South Africa’s premier big five reserves, Umkumbe is in the enviable position of being a central area for big cat sightings. In particular, the area offers unrivalled leopard sightings. Leopards are accustomed to vehicles and do not see the entity as a threat. They are territorial cats and have found the perfect habitat in the Sabi Sand.

Lions are also seen on a regular basis around the Umkumbe property and in front of the lodge on the banks of the Sand River. The Sparta and Charleston pride are the prides that dominate the area. Today we are going to introduce you to the cats we see on a regular basis.

This is the start of “Meet the big cats” series where we will bring you updates about the lion pride dynamics of the area, the history of the majestic leopards and keep you up-to-date with what is happening in and around our traversere within the Sabi Sand Wildtuin.

Leopards of the Sabi Sand

When guests at Umkumbe see a leopard, it is generally a young male called Maxabeni. Often spotted on early morning and afternoon game drives, he is easily identifiable by the scar on his upper lip. Guests have also reported seeing Maxabeni when they arrive at the main gate en route to camp. This majestic leopard is the dominant male within the Umkumbe and neighbouring traverse.

How did he get his trademark scar? It’s a battle wound from when he was defending his territory from another male. Although fantastic at defending his territory, his hunting skills are not something to be revered. Rangers have noted many failed attempts at bringing down prey !

We love Maxabeni because of his determination during hunts. He is often seen enjoying his solitary wanderings and, when not alone, we have noticed him with a female called “Little Bush” and her cub.

We believe Maxabeni is the father of the White Dam/Kalabash female’s two cubs. They were seen mating close to the lodge last year October. In April this year, ranger Cameron and his guests witnessed a fantastic sighting of the White Dam female with two healthy cubs. The cubs looked roughly 4 months old and the three leopards were spotted very close to the lodge. White Dam has quite a shy demeanor about her but put on quite display for the guests. This is was one of the first sightings of the cubs. However, there is a twist to the tale.

At one stage, rangers were concerned because White Dam’s tracks were discovered close to tracks of another male leopard called Machlatine; who they’ve not seen in a while. There was speculation that these two were mating, which means the cubs would have died. However, Cameron’s sighting of White Dam and her cubs proved otherwise !

So we have Little Bush, White Dam and two Cubs, Maxabeni and the Notten’s female. And the appearance of Machlatine. What will Maxabeni do if he discovers Machlatine on his territory?

Lions of the Sabi Sand

This year we have seen plenty of activity close to the lodge from the Southern Splits females, the Charleston pride, the Four-ways males and the Sparta pride. The Sparta pride is 7 strong, comprising 3 males and 4 females. Below we have images of the Spartas literally tripping over each other in an attempt to attack a buffalo. When confronted with the herd, they stumbled over each other – it appears this is one of their first hunt without help ! This happened 100 metres from the lodge and it turns out the Charleston pride was also in the area – attempting to do the same thing !

The coalition of males, previously from the Four-ways pride have also been spotted around the Umkumbe traverse. They gave a huge herd of Cape buffalo a run around when they tried to take them down. The buffalo chased the males and the hunt was unsuccessful.

Keep posted for regular lion updates – we’ll give you a concise history over the next few weeks so you can start to identify the big cats of the Sabi Sand.

Wild Dogs Chase a Lone Wildebeest for Fun

A pack of Africa’s second-most endangered predators arrived in the area late last week to the detriment of one poor wildebeest. nThambo Tree Camp guests were on their morning game drive when they pulled up to this unusual sighting and watched the ‘playground bullying’ carry out between a couple of trouble makers and a lone wildebeest.

It is fantastic to see these incredible, painted dogs (also known as Cape hunting dogs) back in the area adding their splash of mottled brown, white and black colour to the drying bushveld. Nimble and quick, these predators are highly successful hunters with an often misunderstood hunting technique. To avoid conflict with big predators in the bush, a pack of wild dogs demolishes its prey within minutes leaving very little scrap meat.

This wildebeest was subject to a little bit of intimidation play by the younger members of the pack, while there was no real intention to attack. The pack of dogs was 10-strong and most of the elder members relaxed in the shade, while the teenagers engaged in a little horse play. They are very interactive animals and are often seen being affectionate towards each other. This time, guests got to watch the unusual sighting play out in the morning sunlight and take away memories of the endangered wild dogs in their natural home.

P.S. Wild dogs follow big herds of antelope and migrate through a large range, but only stay put when they give birth to cubs. From May to July the dogs will ‘den’, so that the pups have the opportunity to develop and gain strength to then move with the pack. Now that we’ve seen the wild dogs in the area, we can hope that perhaps a litter of pups has been born and they will hang around for a couple of months seeing as it is the start of their denning period…

Week in Pictures: Caught in the Act!

It’s not as if we’ve been creeping around in silence, trying to catch them out. We’ve been trundling around in 4×4 Land Rovers with chatty, happy guests, weaving in and out of the beautiful traverse of the Sabi Sand Wildtuin and the Klaserie Private Nature Reserve. But funnily enough we seem to have caught these animals in the middle of their own displays of dominance, courtship, play, and even a bit of nose picking. Perhaps we are all just so comfortable with each other that everyone feels at home. The wildlife surrounding Africa on Foot, nThambo Tree Camp, nDzuti Safari Camp, and Umkumbe Safari Lodge are so accustomed to the addition of of a couple of game viewers during designated game drive time, that they carry on unperturbed.

Enjoy these fantastic snaps taken by guides and photographers at the respective lodges, all of whom caught their subjects just in the middle of whatever it was they were doing.

Mating lions caught on beetle cam by Herco van Houdt

OK so maybe we were creeping around a little bit in this one… Africa on Foot photographers sent in a beetle cam courtesy of Herco van Houdt while these 2 lions were mating!

Rhino and calf caught with their mouths full

Mom and baby white rhino were caught with their mouths full as nThambo Tree Camp guests drove passed. Is that a lilac-breasted roller peering down in the background? Busted.

Southern ground hornbill not quite on the ground

Southern ground hornbill? Caught pretty high up in the tree for a prehistoric looking ground bird…

Elephants caught in mock battle in the Sabi Sand

Well because we are so mature we know these elephants weren’t caught kissing, but still, busted!

Sparta pride caught tripping over one another

The Sparta Pride was seen at Umkumbe chasing buffalo… and then they lost all bravery and ran for the hills when the buffalo put up a fight! This is them tripping over one another in a hasty retreat.

A pair of yellow-billed hornbills silhouetted in the light

Well that didn’t end well… Husband hornbill getting the silent treatment.

We’ve seen a lot of lion teeth lately at Africa on Foot and nThambo Tree Camp, and here again this Trilogy male was caught snacking on the flies buzzing around his head.

When he wasn’t too busy snapping at flies, he gave his girlfriend a real look of love…

Mating pair of lions - Ross lioness and Trilogy male

These 2 just went on and on like this. Passionate exchanges and flirty behaviour were the least of it – we saw everything!

This elephant got caught in the shower…

Hippo splashing about in dominance display

This hippo was having a real tantrum.

Cheetah and cubs caught crossing the road

This might have been the catch of the week! A very rarely seen cheetah mom with 3 cubs in tow caught out in the open as they crossed the road and drank from a puddle.