Heaven on a Houseboat

    Heaven on a Houseboat

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    A water-based safari adds an element of exhilaration, a combination of habitats, and a different experience of the senses. With such generous offerings of these wet wonderlands in Southern Africa, there is a stellar variety of methods by which to experience the wild. Possibly the most decadent of all boating safaris is the houseboat. The vibrant Okavango Delta, endless Zambezi River and the man-made marvel, Lake Kariba, each offer exceptional water-based activities that explore shorelines abundant with the activity of Africa’s greatest mammals, most colourful birds and armoured reptiles. Experience an uninterrupted display of wildlife from sun-drenched decks for as long as one’s eyes can resist sleep.

    Wading elephants, diving kingfishers, basking crocs, grazing buffalo, grunting hippo and water-hunting lions adorn the rivers and their banks; all to be seen throughout the day and heard throughout the night as guests sail smoothly atop their floating homes, comforted by all the luxuries of land. Consider all the time between conventional game drives that is not spent out in the bush. On a houseboat safari, the landscape is ever-changing, and guests’ viewing pleasure is ever-present, as the entire holiday exists upon the flowing waters in these game-rich areas.

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    Ngwesi Houseboat is moored on the river near the village of Shakawe in the Okavango Delta. A double-decked houseboat, it offers comfortable sleeping space for up to 8 people down below and encourages lazy leisure up top with the view of Botswana’s most populated wildlife area. Ngwesi’s private tender boats provide an opportunity for guests to take some time out fishing for the Tiger fish; a fighting critter after which the boat itself is named. Travelling quietly along the waterways of the Delta, one should keep their eyes peeled for the rare Pels fishing owl – a true birder’s delight – whilst making use of the superb photographic opportunities as elephants take to the waters around you.

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    On Safari at nThambo Tree Camp

    On Safari at nThambo Tree Camp

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    You know you’ve hit the safari jackpot when you don’t even have to leave the lodge to see some excellent game. The thing is, we HAD been out on game drive and we had already had our fill for the evening. The fact that we had a honey badger, a herd of elephants, and a spotted hyena visit the lodge after dinner was a bonus!

    nThambo Tree Camp is an unfenced lodge, and we are escorted to bed by rangers with torches, just to be sure that there are no predatory creatures hiding out underneath our stilted chalets, or silent elephants walking their babies to the waterhole just a few metres in front of camp. For the lodge staff, it is not unusual to have late-night visitors, but any informed safari-goer will know one can never predict what will happen, so it was a thrill to experience such up-close and unexpected visitors.

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    Yesterday’s game drive made my personal top 5. Our land rover, driven by guide, Matt, happened upon a ‘shlambi of indlovu’, or, a herd of elephants. There were about 50 individuals, ranging in age and led by one dominant female, the matriarch. She let us know that she was in control of the situation and stood in the road eating for longer than necessary. Her little calf kept well underfoot of her and made it difficult for us to get moving again after a wonderfully long visit with the whole family. We were well and truly stuck in an elephant traffic jam! Matt expertly managed the situation and we moved slowly through the herd. A couple of members objected, and Mrs Matriarch made resounding stomach grumbles, which we felt right to the bone..

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    By the time we were back at the lodge and had tucked into all 3 dinner courses, we were alerted to a violent rustling in the bin area behind the kitchen. Honey badgers! One of beasts’ most fearless members had returned to nThambo Tree Camp and was determined to find some tasty leftovers. We shot up stalked him as far as we could before catching his rear end disappearing into the dark.

    While we were being distracted by the antics of the honey badger, a small herd of 6 or 7 elephants had sidled up to the birdbath right next to our dinner table. A big momma and her baby drank first, as we stood merely 5 metres away, then the others stepped forward to drink. Their low, alto grumbles reverberated through the ground, but they were unfazed by our awe-struck presence. Photographs were difficult because of the poor light, but the experience was unrivalled; an extra special safari treat for the 6 of us guests at nThambo.

    Just as we thought the show must be over, a spotted hyena entered the light surrounding the lodge. Walking on its own, it appeared to be on a mission, but slowed down to give us the once-over before skulking around the perimeter of the boma. We later heard that Matt was on his way to his room at this time and soon realised he was being followed by this lone hyena!

    Needless to say, we went to bed hearing the eerie call of hyenas beginning their night’s hunt. The excited ‘whooooop’ was interrupted only by the distant roaring of those ‘ngala’ we are yet to find. Let’s just say our ears are pricked and our eyes are peeled and we are learning a lot about the paw prints of lions, as Isaac, our Shangaan tracker pays close attention to the evidence on the ground.

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    A safari to write home about with Africa on Foot

    A safari to write home about with Africa on Foot

    My exhilarating stay with Africa on Foot began with a transfer to the lodge with game ranger Enoch. While bobbing around on the back of the safari vehicle I kept my eyes peeled for a chance at spotting wildlife – you never know when something wonderful could pop out from behind a bush!

    In between my mistaking a distant rock for an elephant and a tree stump for an impala, Enoch chatted away, telling me about the lodge’s history, the close bond the staff share and the naughty honey badgers that have been known to raid the lodge, crack open the liquor and pass out on occasion. I couldn’t have been more excited to begin my stay at the lodge and I arrived just in time to head off on a game drive…

    Tracking the big five

    I have no idea what they make Land Rovers out of these days, but boy-oh-boy did that safari vehicle deserve a badge after tackling the high-energy wildlife tracking mission we were on!

    Within the first ten minutes of being on the prowl, Enoch received word that there were lions crossing the reserve, on their way out into the Timbavati. He politely turned around and said in his best English accent “Hold on, tight.” Grinning, I firmly grabbed the bar in front of me, and off we went. Arriving in the nick of time we watched as two lionesses casually slipped their way past our safari vehicle and out of Klaserie Private Nature Reserve. Wow.

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    A lioness walks right past our safari vehicle.

    As we drove away from the sighting, we came across an elephant and her cheeky calf who playfully trumpeted his inexperienced trunk at us. Boom, around the corner and a pair of rhino… and the next corner a herd of buffalo!

    It was as if Africa on Foot were employing these creatures to be at a certain place at a certain time to ensure we finished the game drive in absolute awe. Of course it’s all down to the sheer skill of wildlife tracking, but what a day!

    To add to the already incredible experience in the reserve, we stopped to watch the sunset while we sipped on a brewsky and nibbled on traditional South African snacks of biltong and dried fruit squares. Having seen four of the big five on the game drive already, we were all perfectly content with heading back to the lodge to rehash the excitement of the day’s sightings. Next thing we know, we’re all back in the safari vehicle tracking a leopard. How Enoch managed to navigate his way around massive thorn trees, shine a steady spotlight, and radio in the sighting at the same time is beyond me. With that kind of go-getter spirit we got our leopard sighting… and bragging rights that go with it.

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    Tracking leopard while on an evening game drive.

    The festive chatter around the fire pit that evening sparked a great atmosphere. The only time there was silence was when we all tipped our heads backwards to watch the brilliant stars sparkling overhead.

    A safari on foot

    At Africa on Foot, each day began before sunrise, heading off on a walking safari. On foot you get a far more intimate experience with nature. It’s just you, miles of stretching African landscape, the wild creatures that call this place home, and of course, your game ranger and his rifle.

    During the stroll I learned so much about the wild. I learned how to track wildlife, which footprints belong to which animal, as well as useful survival tricks, like which tree’s leaves Bear Grylls would use for toilet paper if he were ever in the need of soft, safe material. Important stuff.

    Ever heard of a game called Spit the Bokdrol? Enoch drew a line in the sand about 2 metres away, over which we all had to try to spit an antelope dropping. I popped the grass pellet into my mouth and gave it a go. My shot wasn’t the furthest, but I put in a good effort.

    Walk on the African track

    If I wasn’t found tucking into the delightful buffet spread of breakfast, lunch or dinner, I was taking a dip in the pool, reading or heading off on a game drive. As you can see, apart from the morning walking safari there wasn’t much physical exercise happening, so I asked if there was perhaps a safe track or trail where I could work off my second helping of last night’s dessert. I was in luck! There is a dirt road that encircles the lodge, so I grabbed my partner and we ventured off for a few laps, sure to use the knowledge acquired on the morning walking safari to identify various types of plants and wildlife tracks.

    Sleeping in a tree house

    You have the option of trading in a night in your chalet for a night’s sleep in a tree house, a few hundred metres away from the lodge. So my adventurous streak and I decided to give it a go. The tree house is a three storey, rustic structure with no doors or walls, only the most incredible 360 degree views of the surrounding reserve. I spent an utterly amazing night up there, falling asleep to the sound of the call of lions and hyena, and wondering what was happening out there…

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    A rustic tree house with the most beautiful view of Klaserie Private Nature Reserve.

    Africa on Foot delivered in every way. The accommodation was magnificent. The food was worth the hunt for extra exercise. The wildlife sightings were out of this world. The staff were just so friendly, fun and ready to help, and as for Enoch, well any game ranger who can spot a three-inch, camouflaged chameleon in a tree, at night honestly deserves their weight in gold.

    Small things build a great safari at nDzuti

    Small things build a great safari at nDzuti

    On my third day at nDuzti, I sat on the porch watching tree squirrels scurry from trunk to trunk while a hungry hare hoppity-hopped its way across the expansive green lawn in search of nosh. To my left, slow-motion giraffes drank from a waterhole, while their fellow thirst-quenched impala-friends succeeded in restlessly scaring each other into a scatter, like a bunch of nervous guinea fowl. That’s when I realised that even without spotting the big five in the last couple days, my safari experience at nDzuti would’ve been just as spectacular.

    Welcome to nDzuti

    The untarred road leading up to the safari lodge slithered through grassland broken by Acacias, elephants and giraffes. I arrived at nDzuti having just experienced a transfer which doubled as a game drive, and was greeted with a warm welcome by Bruce and Judy who run the lodge.

    The thatched lodge gives off a homely atmosphere with its leather couches, Honesty Bar and feel-good art that hangs on the walls. Although, the enormous showers are nothing like I’d have at home. Seriously, the shower is large enough to comfortably accommodate a post-game-drive scrub-down with you, your significant other and a baby elephant.

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    Welcome to nDzuti Safari Camp!

    Venturing off into the wilderness

    Klaserie Private Nature Reserve shares an unfenced border with Kruger National Park which means you’re in big five territory.

    Each morning our day started at 5:45 am with a cheerful wake-up call through the bedroom door. On the other side of the door, a light breakfast and piping hot cup of coffee awaited… as did the excitement of an early morning game drive. The guides have an incredible amount of knowledge and didn’t miss an opportunity to share quirky stories and fun facts with us as we ventured further into the reserve, spotting wildlife and brilliant bird life along the way.

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    Impala grazing in Klaserie Private Nature Reserve.

    Satisfying more than a taste for the wild

    I don’t know how they found her, but their cook – Mama Sienna – is what I call an African queen of the kitchen. The joy in her smile almost outshone the gratefulness in mine when I thanked her for the most delicious spinach pie I’d ever tasted.

    Breakfast, lunch and dinner had to be the most scrumptious, love-filled feasts you could wrap your tongue around in that part of the world. To top the dining experience off, meals were rolled out on a viewing deck overlooking a well-attended waterhole. It was also the perfect spot for reading, taking a dip in the turquoise pool, or gathering around the fire pit.

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    nDzuti’s pool ready to refresh.

    The fire side banter

    In the evening I gathered around the open-air fire pit with guests from around the world. With my hands wrapped around a frosty Savanna from the Honesty Bar, we all exchanged stories of our travels and previous game drive sighting experiences. We laughed, swapped email addresses and enjoyed the magical atmosphere that the stars overhead and the call of wild dogs lent to the experience.

    With so much to see, photograph, eat and enjoy, the evening could’ve quite possibly been ticking into the wee hours. All I know is that by 9 pm it felt like midnight and it was time for bed.

    As I curled up under the down duvet, I silently thanked past guests for the shining reviews they had left on Trip Advisor, which fuelled my excitement for experiencing nDzuti.

    So when I think about it, seeing the big five on a safari is only a fraction of the enjoyment of the experience as a whole. A safari is about so much more than just tracking wildlife, and I feel nDzuti understands exactly that.

    Feeling like King of the Jungle at nThambo Tree Camp

    Feeling like King of the Jungle at nThambo Tree Camp

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    Handed a welcome drink and smile from fresh-faced Lily at reception, I had a feeling my nThambo Tree Camp experience was going to be bliss.

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    I was right.

    As soon as I stepped inside our tented tree house accommodation I was met with an air of romance. The gently draped mosquito net, the white linen, and even the rolled towels made for a relaxing atmosphere I couldn’t ignore. My better half and I stood outside on the balcony for a while and watched a pair of giraffes eat from a nearby tree, before heading back to the main lodge to grab some lunch of our own.

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    Our romantic tree house accommodation at nThambo Tree Camp.

    Tracking wildlife

    Setting off on a game drive with the nThambo crew was quite a treat. The guides were passionate, well-informed and delivered on their wildlife tracking, leading us to a site where three lions fed on a giraffe. This is big five territory and the experience tracking them was exhilarating.

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    A lion feeds on a giraffe.

    The rangers of nThambo are connected to a radio network which links the game rangers of other nearby lodges together. That way, if there is something incredible happening out there in the wilderness and one ranger stumbles across it, they are able to share the experience and alert others.

    A large part of the appeal of enjoying a safari in Klaserie Private Nature Reserve is the fact that wildlife sightings are far more intimate with no more than two safari vehicles allowed on a site at once.

    While out on the game drive our ranger found us a quiet spot to hop out the vehicle, stretch our legs and enjoy the African sunset while sipping on a beverage of our choice. A spread of snacks were also laid out for us to nibble on – complete with an option of traditional South African biltong for the foreigners to fall in love with.

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    Out in Klaserie Private Nature Reserve on a game drive.

    A scrumptious affair

    Back at the lodge, Lily waited to greet us with warm face-clothes and small glasses of something delicious to help warm us from the inside. We gathered around the fire defrosting before dinner. At nThambo, dinner was always three courses and the wine available at the bar to accompany it was lip-smacking good.

    The magic-cleaner-fairies

    While you’re out on your afternoon game drive, magic-cleaner-fairies swoop in unseen and restore the tented abode to the spick and span form it was in prior to your arrival. They also hang your bed’s mosquito net delicately, place something delicious on your pillow and pop a hot water bottle in your bed for a welcome bedtime surprise.

    Off to bed

    After a top notch dinner and some fireside banter we headed off to bed, personally escorted by one of the game rangers to ensure our safety.

    Belly full and satisfied with the day’s adventure, I felt like King of the Jungle. I hugged my hot water bottle a little tighter and drifted off to sleep to the sound of lions roaring in the distance.

    A seamless safari in Klaserie Private Nature Reserve

    A seamless safari in Klaserie Private Nature Reserve

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    My safari with Sun Destinations was the easiest, most value for money safari I’ve ever booked. The lodges, transfers and outstanding game drives delivered on my dream getaway in the African wilderness.

    A booking breeze

    Nadine from Sun Destinations stitched together my safari itinerary like an absolute pro. I simply sent her a list of the three lodges I wished to include in the seven days I had available for a getaway – the next thing I knew, she’d puzzled together a handsome-looking safari for me. The only thing I had to worry about was getting myself to Johannesburg’s OR Tambo airport in time for my transfer to the first lodge – which Nadine organised too.

    Three lodges, one seamless experience

    For my safari, I’d picked nDzuti Safari Camp, Africa on Foot and nThambo Tree Camp, all found within Klaserie Private Nature Reserve. They are relatively close to one another but each offer a completely different safari experience. The food, the atmosphere, the rooms, and even the way the game rangers conducted their game drives differed from camp to camp.

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    My room at nDzuti Safari Camp. Down duvets for total melt-into-me comfort.

    Top notch, affordable Kruger safari experience

    I couldn’t fault the cleanliness, presentation of the rooms, service, food and game drives I experienced at each lodge. With two game viewing activities included per day I managed to see the big five… and more! The quality (and quantity) of daily breakfasts, lunches and dinners included were most impressive. Throughout my stay I felt that there was a definite attention to detail that ran through each of the lodges I visited. From hot water bottles placed in a turned down bed in the evening, to a thrilling story told around the fire pit by a seasoned game ranger.

    Rhino sighting in Klaserie

    Our game ranger’s tracking skills paid off, getting us this rhino sighting.

    What I’m most chuffed about is the fact that my getaway in Klaserie Private Nature Reserve satisfied my idea of the perfect safari. There were no hooting cars or frustrated drivers to spoil the magic of a sighting, no hordes of tourists gathering around a watering hole waiting for wildlife to arrive, and no other vehicles obstructing my photograph when I saw a lion feeding on a giraffe. That alone was worth every penny spent on the already affordable Kruger safari.

    How to get there

    Option 1 – Transferred from OR Tambo airport

    Arrive at Johannesburg’s OR Tambo airport. Spend a night at a nearby hotel. In the morning catch a transfer from OR Tambo airport to the Klaserie Private Nature Reserve gate (Approximate 8 hour transfer). You’re then met by a lodge representative and are transferred from the gate to the first lodge on your itinerary.

    Option 2 – Transferred from Hoedspruit airport

    Arrive at Hoedspruit airport. Catch a transfer to Klaserie Private Nature Reserve gate (Approximate 30 minute transfer). At the gate you’re met by a lodge representative and are transferred the first lodge on your itinerary.

    Option 3 – Self-drive

    Before you decide to go self-drive, I must say that the transfers that Sun Destinations organise shuttle you between lodges for the duration of your safari. Plus, with each lodge offering two game viewing activities per day, you don’t feel the need to head off on your own to try and snag better wildlife sightings.

    That being said, if you’d still prefer a self-drive holiday, you can hire a 4×4 from OR Tambo or Hoedspruit airport and drive yourself to each lodge. Here are the GPS coordinates of the lodges I stayed at to help you on your way.

    Africa on Foot GPS Co-ordinates: S 24° 16’ 46.8” E 31° 14’ 4.9”

    nThambo Tree Camp GPS Co-ordinates: S 24 degrees 17.438″ E 031 degrees 13.836″

    nDzuti Safari Camp GPS Co-ordinates: South 24° 10.3 67 East 31° 11.931

    Transfer organised by Sun Destinations

    Enjoying the scenic route on a transfer from OR Tambo Airport to nDzuti Safari Camp.

    A happy recommendation

    My time spent in Klaserie Private Nature Reserve offered me a piece of safari bliss. For that, I would recommend a getaway to nDzuti Safari Camp, Africa on Foot and nThambo Tree Camp to everyone.

    Elephants en masse in the Savuti

    Elephants en masse in the Savuti

    This is elephant territory like no other. It is well known that you travel to Chobe National Park to experience elephants in their masses and it is here in the heart of the Savuti that these giant mammals congregate and frolic in the newly replenished channel and surrounding swamps.

    Game drives at Camp Savuti often invite numerous close-encounters with elephants and offer endless photographic opportunities to guests with an eye for African beauty.

    Recently, photographer Kevin MacLaughlin captured these 2 elephant bulls interacting at a mud wallow. Take a look:

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    Introducing Camp Savuti

    Introducing Camp Savuti

    The Savuti Marsh area constitutes the western stretch of the Chobe National Park, and is famed as one of the park’s primary ecosystems, reputed for the sporadically-flowing Savuti Channel.

    In recognition of this unmissable safari destination, Camp Savuti has been added to other camps dotted in areas of Botswana’s finest splendour. This small, intimate camp accommodates 10 guests in canvas comfort, yet retains an air of luxury to reassure the lavish traveller. Meru tents are exclusively positioned on platforms that pour generous views over the mysterious Savuti landscape.

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    Openly spacious interiors encourage safari summers and warm evenings spent on private decks, admiring the glorious marshland winding intermittently before you. A comfortable lounge, bar and dining area await in the separately constructed guest area of this charming camp. This iconic marshland can not go unnoticed with raised guest areas providing those sprawling views of the Savuti Channel and the abounding activity that is attracted to its banks.

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    The rolling grasslands that are so acquainted with the Chobe’s dry season bring the grazing, ambling plains game. Kudu in elegance, impala in abundance and warthog in characteristic comedy intermingle below, as if only for viewing pleasure. Zebra and wildebeest bring their faithful companionship to the sweet grass of the Savuti, while the Chobe giants come in numbers matching their size, to remind those passing through on an ancient migration, that this is permanent elephant territory.

    Watch the video of a Camp Savuti experience:

    Hanging with the lions of the Savuti

    Hanging with the lions of the Savuti

    Recently at Camp Savuti, wildlife photographer Kevin MacLaughlin captured this delightful series of pictures that would make any lion lover jealous. A pride of playful lion cubs gallivanted in the Savuti marshland, not a care in the world for the awed onlookers who were lucky enough to be in the right place at the right time.

    The Savuti is famous for abundant elephant populations, and lions; both of which have been documented extensively on the likes of National Geographic by heavyweight filmmakers, Dereck and Beverly Joubert. The tragic, yet spectacular truth about the lions of the Savuti is their specialised ability to hunt and kill elephants – a feat that required the co-operation of entire prides to take down these huge beasts.

    When the Savuti Channel was bone-dry during a 30-year drought, lion prides were large and they spanned vast territories, dominating this region of Chobe and acquiring a reputation that still stands today. Since the reintroduction of the flowing Savuti Channel, the occurrences of elephant killings have declined and the prides of the Savuti are more segmented; however the most likely place in Africa to witness this natural spectacle is right here in Camp Savuti’s back yard.

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    The Story of the Savuti

    The Story of the Savuti

    There’s a history to the Savuti that tells of the reawakened river channel, once dry and dormant for a spell of nearly three decades, and the specialised lions that gorged themselves on elephant kills. This ecosystem adapted to the dryness of the empty Savuti River bed until 2008 when, as if by magic, the water began to flow. Lion prides as big as 30 individuals had adapted to working together to hunt the biggest prey of all; taking advantage of elephants’ poor night vision and using psychological intimidation techniques, then pouncing in unison and successfully bringing down mammal giants.

    The Savuti was famous for this incredible lion activity and although it’s still likely to occur here more than anywhere else, the arrival of the water in the Savuti channel split these enormous prides and the ecosystem adapted once again. Now, the presence of permanent water means that the Savuti Marsh is a hive of activity during winter when other water sources dry up.

    The return of the floodplains nourished the green growth of vegetation, inviting the plethora of wildlife the Chobe is so well known for. The Savuti Marshland enchants with skeletal remnants of the trees whose growth has been taunted by the erratic channel, depicting a landscape that epitomises this area of Botswana’s first National Park. The sweet grass in the Savuti area attracts grazers and browsers of every description, who in turn, attract their carnivorous counterparts; creating what we know as one of the world’s premier predator viewing areas.

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    Located in the Marsh, right on the Savuti Channel is a little piece of tented heaven. Camp Savuti has only five structured canvas tents, raised on wooden platforms, complete with ensuite bathrooms and showers that open up to the heavens. Guests can relax in simple stylish comfort in their canvas tents. Tents overlook the Savuti Channel and the wooden platforms at the entrance of the tents serve as a fantastic vantage point. And if that’s not enough, simply spend time in the quaint lounge area absorbing the latest wildlife novel with a gin and tonic in hand.

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