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5 Facts About Buffalo in the Balule Nature Reserve

Rangers in the Balule often stumble across huge breeding herds of buffalo that arrive en masse to the waterholes peppered around the Ezulwini Lodges. The herds number up to 400, which makes for remarkable sightings for guests. The lone bulls, often referred to as Dagga Boys, lather themselves in mud and pass their days by soaking on the banks of the river. The buffalo is one of Africa’s big five animals and they’re very much a formidable force within the Balule.

These bovids have a need to drink twice a day due to the course vegetation they digest, which means they need access to readily available water sources. The high concentration of buffalo sightings in the Balule is no surprise due to the fact that Ezulwini River Lodge is located on the banks of the river and Ezulwini Billy’s Lodge overlooks a small waterhole.

Here are five interesting facts about the Cape (African) buffalo:

1. They’re one of the most dangerous animals in Africa

The Cape buffalo gives no warning sign before it stampedes. They have a steely glare and remain statue like before suddenly charging and trampling everything in its wake. Lions will emit a low uncomfortable grumble, elephants will flap their ears and leopards get into pounce mode.

With buffalo they give no indication of their emotional state and they have a memory like no other animal – they don’t forgive!

Interestingly enough, approaching a huge herd of buffalo is probably safer than confronting a group of bulls. In the Balule, there are plenty of lone bulls. With the sheer abundance of water, the waterholes and the river, these bovids thrive here in their natural habitat.

2. Old bulls are kicked out of the herd

Isn’t nature a cruel and heartless world? We’ve mentioned buffalo being a very dangerous species but the ones to avoid are the older, lone bulls. Confronting a herd of buffalo is far safer than coming face-to-face with a group of grouchy buffalo bulls.

When bulls are past their prime they are ousted from their herd. Together with other ousted bulls, Dagga boys generally spend their days wallowing in mud trying to rid their body of parasites. The bulls are defensive – and rightly so – they don’t have the protection of their herd anymore. These buffaloes are known as “Dagga boys” because of their love of mud. Dagga means mud in Zulu!

3. The pathfinders direct the herd

And so the buffalo ask, “Where should we sleep tonight? Where will we drink? Where should we go?”. These questions are all answered by the pathfinder, a buffalo that defines the route for the herd.

With such huge herds on the move, there needs to be some sort of direction and end goal in sight. A pathfinder isn’t always the dominant animal within the herd, but they do have a clearly defined role. The smaller groups within a herd also have their own designated pathfinders.

4. They are very good friends with red-billed oxpeckers

Oxpeckers have a symbiotic relationship with buffalo and other mammals in the bushveld. It is believed that the oxpeckers remove parasites from their host and thrive on a diet of dandruff, scabs and scar tissue.

There are two arguments when it comes to the role of oxpeckers on buffalo. One is that the oxpeckers keep a raw wound clean from infection and another is that they continuously pick the scab, which doesn’t aid the healing process. Thus the red-billed oxpeckers could either be symbiotic or semi-parasitic! The jury’s out on the function they perform on these hoofed bovids.

5. They love water but they’re not called water buffalo

First time safari-goers often spot the herds dwelling around waterholes, mud bathing and swimming. Sometimes we hear guests exclaim “water buffalo”! In fact, the only buffalo found in Africa is the Cape (African) buffalo species.

Buffalo digest vast quantities of coarse vegetation and are bulk grazers. When the herds approach the waterholes, they affair is preceded by a massive storm cloud of dust and followed by a delightful submerging in the water. Buffalo have been known to drink up to 35 litres of water a day.

Hercules Pride Spotted Again & the “Cubs” are Growing!

The notorious Hercules Pride has been spotted again on the Africa on Foot and nThambo Tree Camp traverse, where this elusive and not-so-friendly pride has been seen intermittently for the last 18 months. The last we saw of these lions was 2 months ago when we reported a little drizzle of rain and the unexpected vision of the pride blending into the winter bush. This time, the pride had killed an impala and all members had been feeding well when the guides in the Klaserie found them relaxing in the thicket. We enjoyed the best sighting of the lions when they, one by one, got up and crossed the road between the Africa on Foot and nThambo game viewers, staring daggers at us all along… Of course.

The Hercules Pride is a unit made up of two big lionesses and 4 subadult cubs, which are nearing 2 years old and can hardly be called cubs anymore! Early last year we laid eyes on these lions, and at that stage they were extremely skittish around our vehicles. The lionesses would lead their cubs into the thick vegetation upon sight of us, and this behaviour didn’t really change much over time. Luckily, with the constant presence of our vehicles during game drive hours, the Hercules Pride has gained a little confidence, and each time we saw them we’d get one less snarl, and a minute more viewing time before they disappeared.

We have always admired the Hercules Pride for their fierceness and their success as a pride. All four cubs have survived through the vulnerable years of young life, which is quite the feat in the wild! They had zero tolerance for us when they didn’t know us (and we still get nervous if they hold our gaze a little too long), and they have zero tolerance for neighbouring prides – e.g. the Ross Breakaway females. Our hearts were broken when this pride killed the Ross Breakaway cubs a year ago, but it also reminded us of what is necessary to survive, even as apex predators!

This morning, after we watched the Hercules lions for a while, they resumed their position in the shade to sleep away the day. Perhaps we will see them later on afternoon drive, or perhaps they will disappear into the wilderness for another couple of months. All we can say is we are happy to have caught up with these Klaserie legends again… and lived to tell the tale!

Week in Pictures: All Creatures Great and Small

When it comes to wildlife photography, where can we draw the line? There is wild life in everything, from the trees, to the soil, to the birds and the bees. It’s buffaloes and beasts alike that draw our attention at first glance: the rosetted pelt of a leopard streaking through the bush, the flick of a lion’s tail, or the mud-caked surface of an elephant’s ear. Bigger always seems to be better, but upon closer look, we recognise the beauty in the scales of a snake, or the bark of a tree, and celebrate wildlife photography in all its forms. Nature is all around us, characterised by creatures, great and small.

This week in the bush, we’ve admired pre-summer sunrises, gazed into the eyes of leopard cubs and lions, listened to the wash of dirt over an elephant’s back, and felt the tension in the air as herbivores approach a quiet waterhole. The magnificence of our wild earth is represented in this selection of photographs captured at our camps in the Greater Kruger and Botswana. Enjoy the Week in Pictures!

nThambo Tree Camp, Klaserie Private Nature Reserve, Greater Kruger Park

Tuskers Bush Camp, NG43 Concession, Botswana

Umkumbe Safari Lodge, Sabi Sand Game Reserve, Greater Kruger Park

Africa on Foot, Klaserie Private Nature Reserve, Greater Kruger

Ezulwini Game Lodges, Balule Nature Reserve, Greater Kruger Park

Young Lions from Mohlabetsi Pride on Buffalo Kill

We’ll never tire of hearing about the intricate web of the Balule’s lion pride dynamics. Recently we’ve heard about the young Mohlabetsi male coalition adopting the dominant role within three prides (Mohlabetsi, River and Impalabos prides) and patrolling a wide range within the Balule traverse. These rugged boys have conducted kills, mated with available females and definitely haven’t shied away from conflict.

A few days ago the Ezulwini team spotted 3 Mohlabetsi males dining out on a recent buffalo kill. But this time, it wasn’t three lions from the dominant clique, but rather up and coming youngsters from the Mohlabetsi Pride of lions! It’s going to be interesting to watch these brazen sub-adults progress into adulthood.

It appears that the rest of the pride had already dined out on the kill – they disappeared into the deep thickets of the Balule. The area was littered with tracks and we know that the Mohlabetsi Pride is 13 members strong, without the coalition of males. We believe there are two cubs with the pride, but unfortunately no tracks of cubs were seen. Rangers arrived in time to observe the three sub-adult males tucking into their portion.

There’s always a hierarchy with lions when it comes to the order of eating. Dominant males will eat first, even if the lionesses have conducted the kill. If the coalition of dominant males were around, they would have already had their fill by the time the game viewer arrived at the sighting. Older lionesses will eat after the big males have had their share. Occassionally, lionesses will snack on the kill just as they’ve made it; ensuring they get some form of food before the pride gets involved. Sub-adults and cubs are always last on the list to eat, which is probably why the young boys were left behind. This formalised ritual is believed to be a dominant display of leadership within a pride.

So, now we’ve spotted the pride, where are the dominant coalition? Are they with the River Pride or the Impalabos? Hopefully we’ll see them soon.

Lost in the bare world

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“Believe in yourself! Without a humble but reasonable confidence in your own powers you cannot be successful or happy.”
– Hosea Ballou

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Lightbox Gallery

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Don’t forget to explore these things in Iceland

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Per inceptos himenaeos.

Toulon Pack of Wild Dogs with 10 Puppies

The unmistakeable high-pitched bird-like chitters of the African wild dog could be heard echoing through the traverse around Umkumbe Safari Lodge. Having enjoyed plentiful wild dog sightings recently, rangers and trackers weren’t surprised that the dogs were out and about. The painted dogs, as they’re affectionately known, are one of the world’s most endangered carnivore and their largest threat is habitat destruction and human-wildlife conflict.

These successful carnivores are not only experts in their field of kill tactics but they’re also incredibly family-oriented and highly social. The provide for, and protect their own. Umkumbe’s recent sighting of the Toulon pack of wild dogs was nothing short of astounding.

Here are the series of events leading up to the main show.

In the beginning of August, Umkumbe enjoyed several sightings of wild dogs in one weekend! The pack of dogs were in hot pursuit of a bushbuck that was enjoying its surrounds in the Sand River. When the dogs gave chase, the startled antelope headed straight for the lawns of the lodge to seek refuge. This did not deter the canines.

Wild dogs actually hunt their prey by coursing, which is a rather brazen and brave method of tackling prey. Coursing is when the predator approaches prey directly, with no stalking involved and then chases the prey relentlessly until the intended victim is exhausted. Two of the dogs actually pursued the unlucky recipient into the camp but came back empty handed!

Cue a couple of weeks later and the wild dogs are spotted again. During game drive on Tuesday morning and evening, the pack of wild dogs were seen engaging in a flurry of activity. On Wednesday morning, the show began! An entire clan of African wild dogs, together with their 10 pups (estimate) appeared to have just devoured some sort of kill.The dogs were covered in blood, guts and gore – a dead giveaway! Wild dogs have the ability to annihilate a kill in about 15 minutes. This is to avoid unwanted attention from big cat predators and scavengers that will take the kill for themselves.

Ranger Marius speculates there were about 12 adults at the scene, but is not 100% sure of numbers at this stage. The adult dogs were regurgitating their food for the pups, which added an extra dimension to the already phenomenal sighting. Adults have to do this with the food because the pups are stashed in the den for safekeeping. A few members of the clan will remain behind and safeguard the pups, while a select few will conduct the hunts. Dogs actually take turns in babysitting. The Toulon Pack were showing off with their typical wild dog behaviour, giving guests the full spectrum of behaviours to watch!

The Sabi Sand’s entire Toulon pack clan gave guests quite a memorable game viewing experience. These dogs are critically endangered and with only 6600 wild dogs remaining in the wild, it’s always richly rewarding experience observing healthy wild dog pups thriving in the Sabi Sand.

Why have Umkumbe enjoyed prolific wild dog sightings?

Apart from the trackers and rangers highly attuned skills, there is a plausible explanation for all the recent wild dog sightings. Notoriously nomadic wild dogs spend much of their time covering a wide range, except during their denning period which is timed with the end of the impala rutting season during May. Impala rams are exhausted and make for easy prey.

When the dogs give birth to pups, they find a suitable den area and remain there for about 3 months. During these months the pups will be fed, babysat and looked after by the entire clan. This would explain why the entire pack was congregating in one area. A few breakaways were seen out hunting, but that’s to bring meat back to the pack. During these 3 months the dogs are sedentary but once the pups are old enough, their nomadic ways will resume.

Week in Pics: Spring has Sprung !

This week in pictures we intend to introduce you to the wonders of spring and the flurry of activity that goes hand-in-hand with the change of seasons. The spring weather is beginning to argue with winter and force it’s sunny disposition onto the arid lands. The Kruger is dry at the moment, but we’re hoping for pitter patter of rains to replenish the thirsty landscapes that lay before us. Let’s hope that spring will deliver a bit of respite for the stern winter controlling the landscapes around our Kruger and Botswana camps.

Despite the weather and imminent change of season ahead, our wildlife have certainly provided us with a spate of rare sightings – especially the wild dogs and big cats. For this “week in pictures” we’ve decided to inject a bit of colour into the gallery by sharing a combination of images of predators and smaller things.

We hope you have a “blooming” marvellous start to spring and that your weekend ahead is filled with the happiness that is synonymous with the season.

Umkumbe Safari Lodge

The approach of spring signifies the end of the African wild dog denning period, which normally starts in May. The dogs denning period begins at the end of the impala rutting season. This period of time is when the wild dogs remain sedentary in order to raise their pups. When pups reach 2.5 – 3 months they begin to move with the pack and their nomadic lifestyle resumes.

Guests and rangers have enjoyed prolific sightings of the rare dogs, the highlight being on Tues/Wed when the Toulon pack were spotted with what appeared to be over 10 pups!

Another highlight at Umkumbe has been the leopard sightings, which is not unusual but always a highlight. This week there have been sightings of the White Dam leopardess and (wait for it) an unknown beauty of a leopardess! For a few days there was curiosity surrounding this unknown leopardess. She has just recently been Id’d has “Tsakani”, a visitor from the northern Sabi Sand. On the big cat front, the Southern Pride/Charleston lion union were seen with two 6-week old cubs feasting on a buffalo kill.

All in all, a real bumper week for the Sabi Sand. It appears with spring, there has been plenty of births and interesting behaviour from all wildlife.

Ezulwini Billy’s Lodge and Ezulwini River Lodge

The breeding herds of elephants are out in full force in the Balule. Massive groups are seen smothering themselves in mud on the banks of the river and waterholes. They’re also coming up to the grounds around the lodges, which always delights guests. Spring certainly has brought with it a splattering of joyous behaviour from the animal kingdom.

We’ve had what appears to be the start of rather amorous behaviour from the Van Wijk’s leopardess and the Chavaluthu male. They were enjoying each other’s company. No mating ceremony was witnessed, but watch this space. Time will tell!

The herds of buffalo are in abundance in the Balule and wowed everyone with a presence of over 400 bovids, just relaxing under the tree. Quite a picture!

The scenes in the Balule Nature Reserve are spectacular at the moment, signifying a definite change in season and possible weather patterns.

Africa on Foot and nThambo Tree Camp

This spring, we’ve begun with a wealth of lion sightings in the Klaserie. The big cats clearly think that spring is their season to shine! There is such a diverse species of wildlife within the reserve, but the lions are a constant drawcard for guests.

Two nights ago, the Ross Pride Breakaway lionesses were seen with a rather massive buffalo kill close to Africa on Foot camp. The Mapoza males, who’ve clearly made their mark on old Trilogy turf, weren’t present for the feast. These males have both been in the spotlight recently. It’s normally the confident male with the golden mane that is seen in the open. But not this time! His partner in crime finally decided to giv the Klaserie guests a full viewing.

Our top big five sighting for the week is the presence of the Mapoza male lions and elephant hanging out together on the grounds of Africa on Foot. What a moment! Last night during game drive, Africa on Foot spotted an unknown leopard as well as the Ross Dam female. While Africa on Foot was reveling in the leopard sightings, nThambo Tree Camp had a huge breeding herd of elephants come to drink at their swimming pool.

On the subject of leopards, guide Rey had a rather close encounter with Cleo, the resident leopardess. She casually strolled right past his game viewer. What a heart-stopping moment for nThambo Tree Camp guests! However, this was not the only leopard sighting. They spotted yet another leopardess, Marula Mafasi, looking relaxed in the fork of a Marula tree.

Guests witnessed a rare sparring two buffalo bulls trying to assert their dominance. Another unique big five sighting for the reserve.

It’s spring – time to celebrate the presence of predators and the array of species in the Klaserie!

Tuskers Bush Camp and Xobega Island Camp

The Okavango Delta always provides the ideal destination for a water safari. With spring on its way, we’re sure to see a flood of new blooms and interesting colours along the papyrus lined channels.

Tuskers Bush Camp has a small waterhole in front of camp, which attracts plenty of pachyderms and big cats – in particular, leopard. The leopards have been weaving between the tents and tracks in the immediate vicinity have been seen.

But the highlight of the week has been the lion sightings in and around camp. Two males, two females and one large male have been seen on the secret camera footage and “in the flesh”.

The small bird bath in the boma area at Tuskers is a constant source of delight. It attracts plenty of small species!

Another Day, Another Feast for Klaserie Lions

With the tough drought conditions that have plagued the Kruger Park this year, it’s no surprise that the grazing animals are weaker than they would be if they had fed on the green grass of summer. In the Klaserie, we’ve seen the buffaloes falling victim to hungry lions regularly, meaning that the king predators are getting well fed. This is the circle of life, and as much suffering as drought causes, it is a natural process, and it is a time when predators such as lions might benefit from the population of weakened prey. Last night, rangers at Africa on Foot were alerted to a commotion in the darkness…

Guests were already tucked in to bed when the sound of stampeding hooves and panicked bellowing echoed into the night, but Kevin and Mike were not going to miss the action, so they took the vehicle out in the direction of the noise – pleasantly surprised by White Rock the leopardess, minding her own business in the bush near the rangers’ block! This was, however, not the cause of the noise, and the guys carried on in search of the buffalo, but alas, were unlucky. Back at camp, the unmistakable sound of lions and hyenas at battle rang out into the night, and we knew we were in for a treat come the morning…

As the sun rose, both Africa on Foot and nThambo Tree Camp guides took their guests in the direction of the action from the night before. Sure enough, on the property right next door to Africa on Foot, both the Ross Breakaway lionesses were busy tucking into a freshly killed buffalo! Naturally, guides started checking for signs of the Mapoza males, but other than one or two clear tracks, the boys were nowhere to be found. The lionesses were bloodied and beaming over their reward without the bullying of the two male lions who would have dominated the carcass.

Both lodges had a fantastic view of the females before nThambo moved on to continue with their game drive, and Africa on Foot headed back to camp to embark on their scheduled walking safari! What a fantastic way to start another day in this special location, surrounded by the wilderness.

Rare Photos of Both Mapoza Male Lions

The two Mapoza male lions who strutted onto the property a few months ago have increased their their confidence tenfold. The pair came, saw, and appear to have conquered, this part of the Klaserie. We questioned whether these males could would be a match for the Trilogy, but it seems the Trilogy males were the ones to lay low when the new boys rocked up. Just goes to show that we know precious little about lion dynamics and should never assume to know how things are going to play out!

The Mapozas (meaning ‘to chase’) were very shy and behaved aggressively towards vehicles in their early days. One of the males – the older one – was more confident than the younger one, and we have seen a little more of him in the past, while the younger male would retreat to the bush as soon as a vehicle would arrive at a sighting. Now, the lions seem to have become habituated to the vehicles, and for the first time ever we have managed to photograph both males relaxing in the sunlight with one of the Ross Breakaway lionesses.

The Mapozas have certainly made their mark at Africa on Foot and nThambo Tree Camp where they have feasted on many a buffalo, and been heard calling all around camp at night. Last week, they fed on nThambo’s access road, and since then they were spotted in another area close by, which is where we were delighted to find both males.

Tuskers Bush Camp: Meet Our Lions

A lone male lion with endless golden locks and a powerful beast of a body was seen patrolling the arid landscape around Tuskers Bush Camp. He was swaggering his way along the road en route to the pan – probably to replenish his thirst. We know this because the camera trap photographed him in the dead of night. Jessica sheds some light on the events subsequent to this grand moment.

Last week, the big reveal was the photo of the statuesque male caught on camera. We had hoped that things would escalate and we’d hear reports of other lions in the area. When Jessica sent us the photos, we were very eager to determine “who’s who in the zoo”. Our hopes became not just a pipe dream but cemented in reality. Jessica was actually en route to set up another camera trap in a similar area and, together with Pamela and Christiaan, they came face to face with a small, loosely formed pride of lions. She sent in the below report and is determined to uncover the mystery of the Tuskers Bush Camp lions!

We now have confirmation that there are four lions in the immediate area and one large male. Two males and two females were seen over the weekend in the vicinity of the partially filled pan. One lioness appears to be quite a bit older than the rest – at least 4/5 years old and there’s speculation that she is the mother of at least two lions.

Could the proud looking male from the camera trap have sired the cubs with this female?

This older lioness was accompanied by a sub-adult male, at least 18 – 20 months old. Pamela, Christiaan and Jessica worked tirelessly to try identify the age of the lions. Biologically, what we do know is that when lions reach the age of three, they are ousted from the pride and expected to fend for themselves. They often form coalitions with other young males and keep a low profile until the age of five when they reach sexual maturity.

After the age of five, young male lions seek out females and prides to take over. Females tend to stay in their maternal pride for life, unless the pride splinters or they split off. If this happens, they aren’t accepted by a pride that’s not related to them. The world of lions is ruthless, cliquey and family-orientated!

It is clear that this young male on the Tuskers Bush Camp traverse was still tied to the “apron strings” – so to speak; indicating that he’s not quite three yet. This sub-adult appears confident and curious. He sauntered out from his hiding place in the thickets and lay on the road, observing us.

His belly appeared full from a recent kill, which would make sense as to why the pride was close to the pan – to replenish their thirst after a big feast.

Jessica says, “Before we came upon the lions, we spotted a wake of vultures littered in the trees close to the road. We went to investigate and found an adult kudu kill, about 3 days old. We saw both lappet face and white-backed vultures. We heard lions roar on Wednesday so we assume it was them, especially with the male having a large belly.”

We’re getting closer to piecing together the puzzle of the Tuskers Bush Camp lions! Stay tuned, this was just the trailor. The full movie, with all the details, will unfold shortly…