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From Lizards to Lions and Everything in Between

The thing about Marakapula Reserve is that it pretty much has it all. On the doorstep of the Kruger National Park with exclusive guided tours or self-drive adventures on the menu; a luxury lodge with private riverfront views and creature comforts you can’t live without; and its own Big 5 property that is home to all sorts of wonderful members of the wild!

On a recent trip to the reserve, we spotted a leopard slinking through the night, a baby waterbuck that seemed to have lost its mother, one rather large bull elephant, and a pair of enormous lions!

The landscape is varied with everything from leafy mopane woodlands to boulder koppies and baobab trees. Game drives are luxuriously long with dedicated coffee breaks that take you on a walk up a hill to a viewing platform that overlooks the reserve and its rivers. Herds of zebra and wildebeest, pairs of bushbuck, and giraffe can be seen from above, grazing and browsing on the trees’ abundant offerings.

Birds and butterflies catch the eye with their magnificent colours and calls, while creatures lower to the ground scuttle across your path with speed and agility. Chromatic skinks and their larger relatives, the monitor lizards, can be seen basking in the sun to regulate their body temperatures.

At night, the soft hooting of the southern white-faced owl can be heard, and its large amber eyes can be seen staring unblinkingly from the branches of a tree. The shy habit of the leopard brought this cat out at night, while the arrogance of the reserve’s lions meant that we got them in full sunlit display.

Up close and personal at Africa on Foot

Our guests enjoyed an unforgettable elephant sighting the other day when their morning walk turned into one very close encounter with Africa’s largest land mammal. A herd of elephants was spotted about 300m away, and under ranger Greg’s expert leadership, they managed to sit down and enjoy watching the elephants drink and play at the waterhole…getting as close as 3m!

A wide-eyed ‘wooow’ was the general response to seeing these incredible photos taken of Africa on Foot guests at an unforgettable elephant sighting. The excited remarks and breathless story telling of that morning’s walking safari was all the talk at the breakfast table; but we (the unlucky ones) only really felt the impact of such a wonderful safari moment when we got to see Luan’s photos, taken from the nThambo Tree Camp game viewer.

Greg, Africa on Foot’s Zimbabwean ranger, is passionate about leopards, camera traps, safari slang, and bush walks. Every morning (weather depending) our rangers take guests out on a Big 5 walking safari, which lasts 2-3 hours, and aims to introduce guests to the finer details of the Lowveld bush, although there is the chance of meeting the bigger members of the wild. On this particular occasion, the group met the biggest members of the wild and enjoyed this unbeatable safari moment.

Read what Greg had to say about the experience, and how to expertly handle this kind of close encounter.

Not 15 minutes into the walk one of the members of the group spotted the elephants about 300m off the road. After a quick briefing with the group, I checked the wind direction and came up with an approach plan. We entered the bush to get a closer look. We managed to get maybe 60m from them and watched them feeding. They are such magnificent creatures! I realised they were heading in the direction of a small dam. We left the sighting where they were and walked about 1.5 km around them to get to the dam, positioned ourselves on a high point with little risk of anything happening and waited for the magic to happen.

When the elephants arrived at the dam they did seem to notice us as they stopped for a second, but by no means were they bothered by our presence, which was fantastic! Obviously the point of viewing animals is not to disturb them in any way and they allowed us to view them happily.

As you can see in the pictures there is a very steep bank between the elephants and us, which is impossible for an elephant to climb. They could have come along the wall, but they were as I said, not bothered by the group. I chose this position because of the wind, which was coming straight from the elephants towards us. All these factors made our position the best possible.

The youngster that came right up to the wall was just inspecting, he could see us sitting there but couldn’t smell us so was trying to decide whether we were a threat or not. He ended up being probably 3m from us.

The guests were very relaxed. Believe me, when a guest is uncomfortable they let you know! This is also a point I make with them, that if at any point they feel uncomfortable they must let me know so that I can get them out of there safely. This is very important, as you never know how one might react to a particular situation especially when frightened.

I was fortunate enough to have a small group, which allows us to be able to have these encounters with animals because we look less intimidating towards the animals. Before we set out on each walking safari we have strict rules, which are laid out with our guests and it’s vitally important that everyone understands each point. Before the elephants arrived I emphasised those points, and made sure everyone understood. Sit still, be quiet, and enjoy what the bush has offered us.

It was a very humbling and exciting encounter. Once they had finished drinking, the youngsters all started playing, rolling around in the sand, and jumping on each other. It was fantastic! Amazing!

The beauty of the bush is that you wake up everyday with absolutely no idea what the day will bring, you can find nothing, you can find plenty, or you can have the most incredible encounter with a group of ele’s. One thing is for sure though; we will never forget this experience.

Wild Dogs Hunt And Drink At The Savuti Channel

Wild dogs are possibly the most entertaining animals to watch… when you are lucky enough to spot them on game drive! Firstly, they are incredible predators, they have beautifully patterned pelts, they are never alone, and they are always interacting with each other in a playful and noisy fashion. Lions, on the other hand, enjoy the astoundingly boring activity of sleeping for 20 hours at a time (although we would never pass up an opportunity to watch a lion sleep – how lucky we are). When wild dogs are active, they are very active, and can take chase at a moment’s notice.

On safari with Camp Savuti in the incomparable Savute Marsh, we followed tracks leading a large pack of dozing dogs. Their large ears stuck up through the tall, summer grass as we pulled up, and one or 2 of them went as far as to stand up, much to the delight of us onlookers. Then, without much warning at all, 5, 6, 7, 8 dogs stood up, tails erect, noses pointed in one direction. In a matter of seconds, the dogs began to trot towards some thick bush, the look of alertness evident in all of them. We counted 14 dogs in total that rose from the grass and followed their pack leaders into the wooded area, clearly following a scent, a sound.

We were determined not to lose the sighting, and desperate to see an epic wild dog kill in action, so we sped off on the roads we hoped to take us in the right direction. On a hunt, these dogs move quickly, and they use their endurance and stamina to tire their prey out. A brutal blood bath commences once a number of the dogs have landed their strong jaws on the target, and the unfortunate victim suffers a rather delayed death as the predators take bites wherever they can. The episode can be over within a minute, especially when the pack is large, and what remains is a scattered number of inedible bones. We caught up with our Savuti pack a few minutes after their disappearance; they had emerged on the banks of the Savuti Channel, bloodied and thirsty.

What started out as 4 or 5 sleeping wild dogs, almost invisible in the long grass, ended up being one of the most magnificent sightings imaginable. This area of Botswana is world renowned as a wildlife destination, and ever since the Savuti Channel has begun to flow again, more and more game flocks to the region and the most picturesque photographic opportunities present themselves. Here we were with a pack of over a dozen endangered African wild dogs, quenching their thirst in this enigmatic channel of water.

We were completely alone, bar one other vehicle, and we could enjoy watching these relaxed predators in the golden morning light before they hid in the shade to digest their meal. Before the sighting was over, a pair of dagha boys (buffalo bulls) tentatively entered the water a little further upstream and drank as we, and the wild dogs, looked on. Savuti magic!

Meet Maxabeni, Umkumbe’s Dominant Male Leopard

The dominant male leopard on our traverse is called Maxabeni. He is quite solid in his size and stature; and is often spotted protecting his territory. Leopards are nocturnal creatures who spend their daytime hours resting to conserve their much needed energy for kills; which is why Maxabeni sightings happen mainly in the dead of night. During the day you will find leopards draped over large branches in trees and on rocky outcrops. If you’re out on safari during the day – LOOK UP ! You may just see Maxabeni !

Night time is when Maxabeni can be seen defending his territory and stalking prey. The rangers at Umkumbe Safari Lodge realise the rarity and importance of spotting the elusive leopard, so when Maxabeni was spotted guests were lucky enough to spend over 2 hours observing his every move.

Rangers heard the leopard call and made a decision to cut the sundowner short. Maxabeni made it quite easy for rangers and guests to spot him. Time was spent following him as he patrolled his turf. At times, rangers predicted his path and took short cuts to get ahead of him so that guests could see his face. At one stage Maxabeni decided to stalk a herd of impala but was spotted and decided to give up.

This sleek and incredible creature ended up at the pan right next to our lodge ! Head to Umkumbe Safari Lodge to meet Maxabeni, the legendary leopard.

Week In Pictures: Leopard Kill In Botswana And Big Five Kruger Sightings

This week appeared to be dominated by predator and big five sightings, in both the Kruger and Botswana. This week presented us with a showdown between a baboon and a leopard at Camp Linyanti. Needless to say, the leopard won the battle and took home his prize. This young male showed no signs of backing down and walked away with a hearty meal in his mouth. Yet another exceptional leopard kill sighting in the Chobe National Park.

Our favourite lionesses (ex-Ross pride) were spotted traversing the Africa on Foot and nThambo Tree camp territory. We suspect they were in search of the Trilogy boys (coalition of 3 male lions). Again, we have spotted an abundance of breeding herds of elephant and buffalo in the vicinity.

Let us not forget the smaller, yet significant, wildlife that made an appearance for the camera. We have a buffalo scratching his rump – much to the amusement of our photographer, monkeys fooling around and rhinos grazing peacefully in the area.

This week Kevlo sent us images from Camp Linyanti (Chobe National Park), Camp Savuti (Chobe National Park) and Afrika Ecco Safaris (Okavango Delta). Jochen provide us images from Africa on Foot and nThambo Tree Camp (Klaserie Private Nature Reserve); and Umkumbe Safari Lodge (Sab Sand Wildtuin).

Enjoy your friday !

Umkumbe Safari Lodge

nThambo Tree Camp

Camp Savuti

Afrika Ecco Safaris

In Photos: A Virtual Tour Of Marakapula’s Makubu Lodge

Makubu Lodge pool area. Image by Em Gatland

From the high, thatched ceilings, to the wide open glass doors and windows, and vibrantly coloured décor, Makubu Lodge invites the outside beauty right indoors. With the wooden and stone integration, fireplaces, riverside balconies, and poolside loungers, once can’t ignore the sense of luxury of this Kruger-based lodge. Located only 20 mins from the National Park and inits own private Big 5 reserve, Makubu offers a quiet retreat for lovers of natural solitude.

Take a look at the lodge through this series of pictures:

The main lodge is located under giant fig trees offering vast amounts of shade over the various relaxation areas, whether on the spacious deck, the rolling lawn, or around the fireplace in the evenings.

View of Makubu Lodge from the river. Image by Jochen Van de Perre.

Lodge location on the banks of the Selati River in the Big 5 Marakapula Reserve. Image by Jochen Van de Perre.

Shady deck under the trees. Image by Jochen Van de Perre.

The swimming pool is situated overlooking the Selati River, along which the lodge and the chalets are built. A dip in the refreshing water provides much needed relief during summer, while the ‘infinity’ design of the pool makes the swimmer feel at one with the river!

Poolside relaxation. Image by Jochen Van de Perre.

Views onto the river. Image by Jochen Van de Perre.

Infinity pool overlooking the Selati River. Image by Em Gatland.

Inside the elegantly African lodge, there’s no hiding from the gorgeous outdoors with the large windows and sliding doors leading onto the patio and pool deck. Comfortable couches, a fireplace (wonderful in winter), and animal art decorating the surfaces, the indoors are stylish and welcoming, while the scents coming from the dining room at dinner time make you feel right at home.

Spacious interiors of Makubu Lodge. Image by Jochen Van de Perre.

Lounge overlooking the patio and the Selati River. Image by Jochen Van de Perre.

Cozy lounge with a small library collection and a fireplace ideal for winter. Image by Jochen Van de Perre.

Colourfully decorated dining room. Image by Jochen Van de Perre.

To either side of the lodge, also facing the river, are the 7 individual luxury chalets. A walk through the lusciously vegetated garden and over a bridge reminiscent of the Secret Garden, the rich, red chalets reveal themselves in private locations along the Selati riverbank. Private balconies offer exclusive views of the animal activity at the river, while interiors are airy and cool in summer (fans and air-con) and warm and toasty in winter (individual fireplaces). Ensuite bathrooms lead off the bedrooms in an open-plan manner giving the room an intimate feel, however, the stunning shower and loo are tucked behind doors for privacy.

Chalet exterior as seen from the river. Image by Jochen Van de Perre.

Bedroom interior with double bed feature. Image by Jochen Van de Perre.

Room overview from the bathroom. Space to add a bed for a child of a family travelling together. Image by Jochen Van de Perre.

View of bedroom from the fireplace. Ensuite bathroom in the far corner. Image by Jochen Van de Perre.

A mini-lounge and fireplace, ideal for some afternoon reading or night caps by the fire.

Open-plan bathroom leading off the bedroom with views of the river from the stone bath tub. Image by Jochen Van de Perre.

Aerial view of the bath, vanity, and the door leading to the shower. Image by Jochen Van de Perre.

How To Support World Wildlife Day

In December 2013, the 68th session of the United Nations General Assembly proclaimed 3 March as World Wildlife Day. The relevant organisations within the UN system facilitated the implementation of World Wildlife Day in recognition of the fact that wildlife plays an integral part of our daily living. This year we celebrate wildlife, but also focus on combatting the illegal trade of animals; which sustains criminal networks.

The preservation of wildlife has become a UN top level priority. And we should all follow suit. Each small change you weave into your lifestyle will have an impact. So, this begs the question. What can you do to help? There is plenty you can do. Below is an informative list of suggestions and useful resources about how you can support World Wildlife Day.

Here is an endangered species list – protect them and don’t support the exploitation of wildlife.
Read facts and figures about wildlife. We have more tigers in captivity than in the wild but we still have circuses that use tigers for entertainment. Avoid this type of entertainment.There may even be restaurants in your local areas serving fish and seafood which has been overfished. Avoid ordering these dishes.
Do not support beauty products tested of animals. Here, PETA has furnished us with a list of cruelty-free cosmetic products.
Understand HOW wild animals are used for financial gain. Often we are not aware of the dire consequences of our seemingly innocent and well-meaning interactions with wild animals. Did you know that some of those lion cubs that you are petting end up being sold for canned hunting purposes? Chloe Cooper wrote a well-researched piece about the controversial topic of interacting with lion cubs.
Reduce your carbon footprint. Recycle and live sustainably. Reduce the energy you consume and take the burden off of our natural resources.
Donate to the big cat initiative in a personal capacity, or get your business to donate a portion of their turnover to this cause.
Development can often result in habitat destruction and loss of species. Do not support development in areas where there are protected species of fauna and flora.
Educate communities and think about implementing realisitic programs that encourage sustainability. The lion guardian initiative is one of the most incredible organisations that encourages communities to coexist with wildlife.
National Geographic wrote an excellent post celebrating the ways in which 9 of the world’s explorers have made a difference to saving our planet.Learn from the leaders.

Let us all find ways to coexist in a sustainable manner that respects the values of communities and the preservation of wildlife. Feel free to use the posters below as a cover for your Facebook page.

Video: The Flight Of The Hornbill – Baby Bird Leaves The Nest

Amongst the big cats, wild dogs, and dagha-boys are the smaller details of safari that you can count yourself lucky to see. Made famous by the character Zazu in the Lion King, hornbills are some of the most frequently seen birds in the Kruger Park, but their fascinating breeding behaviour is something to be impressed by! In this rare footage, watch as a baby hornbill fledges its nest after a period of time sealed up in the hole of a tree. Even more intriguingly, both red and yellow-billed hornbills are on the scene at this nest at Africa on Foot camp…

Red-billed, yellow-billed, and grey hornbills are seasonal monogamous pairs that spend a dedicated amount of time in courtship displays and tests of trust. The male will bring his female copious amounts of insects, berries, small rodents, or lizards to prove his worthiness as a mate. Once a pair has ‘married’, the female crawls into a carefully selected hole in a carefully selected tree, and is sealed inside by her mate using mud and dung.

Yellow-billed hornbill. Image by Em Gatland.

Red-billed hornbill. Image by Em Gatland.

Grey hornbill.

A Bradfield’s hornbill in flight in the Savute, Botswana. Image by Kevin MacLaughlin.

A small slit is left open, through which the male passes food to his female, while she begins to moult her feathers to line her nest. The male will continue to bring tasty treats to his contained mate while she lays and incubates her eggs. Once the chicks hatch, the female gets broken out of the nest (with a new set of feathers) and together she and her mate reseal the opening to contain the chicks while they continue to develop.

Eventually the chicks break out of the nest and fly free, joining their parents and living as a family for the first 3 weeks of their lives outside the nest. After this period, the young hornbills become independent and live on to find their own mate and begin the search for their own specially-qualified tree-hole.

Yellow-billed hornbill outside the nest at Africa on Foot.

Witnessing A Leopard Kill At Camp Linyanti

The rainy summer season in Botswana has left the Linyanti in a state of lush, green chaos. Right in the north of Chobe National Park on the border of the Caprivi Strip, Camp Linyanti is a haven for elephants, hippos, birds of all sorts, and the secretive habits of the leopard.

A visit to this undiscovered paradise in October last year brought the excitement of a lion sighting right on the banks of the swamp (2 big males that promptly ran for their lives when an elephant made a beeline for them!), and this time we could not have hoped for the treat we were in for…

One morning, game drive came to a standstill when a young male leopard shot across our path and disappeared into the bush after a troupe of baboons. The first thought was that we had missed our opportunity to photograph this beautiful cat. What followed was the noisy panic and angry protests by a family of baboons under attack! With breathless anticipation we peered into the roadside shrubbery in search of the lightning-fast leopard while the upset primates barked and shrieked from the treetops.

There he was, only a couple of metres in, hidden by the overgrown foliage, revealing only a hint of his gold and black pelt, while his shoulder blades rose and fell with heavy breaths. In his mouth, the throat of an unfortunate baboon that had become this leopard’s lunch in a matter of seconds.

Luckily for us, we watched as the triumphant cat emerged from his hiding place and crossed the road in front of us, pausing to reposition his grip. The baboon showed signs of having fought back with its teeth still embedded in the leopard’s shoulder, but the signs of life were fading as its eyelids drooped and finally, closed.

A white-tipped tail disappeared into the thick undergrowth as the leopard slinked away to eat in peace, and no amount of driving around the area was going to relocate him. So, we reluctantly gave up and set our sights on what was in store for the rest of our game drive through the Linyanti forest, grateful for the unpredictability of the bush.

Week In Pictures: Lions Of The Savuti And Birds Of The Kruger

This week Kevlo have returned from Camp Savuti, located in the Savuti marsh in Chobe National Park. Kevin managed to capture an incredible shot of a male lion quenching his thirst in one of the channels. The Savuti is alive with predator activity and the area is renown for being home to lions that kill elephants. It is believed the Savuti lions have adapted and modified their hunting skills over time to kill prey much larger than their counterparts in the Kruger. Chloe and Kevin actually witnessed a ferocious lion charge in the Savute kingdom, which you can read about on their blog post.

Birding has been fantastic this week in both the Kruger and Botswana. Jochen captured a few action shots of a Southern yellow-billed hornbill and Kevin captured a beautiful image of a spur-winged goose in its natural habitat. Hippos have been in abundance and according to Kevlo, Camp Savuti has been alive with activity.

At Africa on Foot and nThambo Tree Camp there have been plenty of bird sightings and even a black-backed jackal made an appearance.

Hope you enjoy the pictures – let’s see what next week has in store for us !