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This Halloween: The Dark Side of Going on Safari

We are not going to beat around the bush here, or rather the bushveld, but this article is not really about anything sinister or sensationalist. We’re actually using Halloween as an opportunity to celebrate a trio of nocturnal species shrouded in superstition. They’re the protagonists in ancient folklore and even witchcraft! Hyenas, lions and owls are our chosen souls for this Halloween…

Nighttime is a misunderstood time of day straddling between the gentle evening and sharp morning light. A time that holds many secrets and tales of predator activity, often only physically evident in the morning light. There is a mysterious magic that happens under the starlit canopy of darkness hanging over the Kruger veld. For what lies beneath this expanse of black? Oh there’s plenty, but our weak human eyes fail to see the antics of the wild.

If twigs could talk and marula trees converse, they’d have plenty to tell us mortal souls about the wild. While we can’t see much, we certainly hear a sliver of what happens in the dead of night. When night falls, the wind drops which means sound carries further. We hear the cacophony of whooping sounds from hyenas, the desperate contact calling from lions and the delightful sounds of owls breaking the critical silence. All a bit scary and perfectly fitting for Halloween!

It is rumoured that Halloween has evolved from a Celtic festival where all and sundry would light bonfires to ward off roaming ghosts. In the eighth century, Pope Gregory III designated the start of November as the time to honor saints. Nov 1st thus became known as All Saints’ Day and it draws many parallels with the Celtic festival. The night before was referred to as All Hallows’ Eve and thus with a combination of Celtic and Christian traditions, Halloween was born. It has now become a much celebrated, mass marketed and fun event taking on many quirks and traditions throughout the years.

So, in sticking with the theme of the misunderstood, let’s find out the various superstitions surrounding three key species to spot while on safari in the Kruger.

Hyena : Famous literary genius, Ernest Hemingway, detested hyenas and didn’t do much to encourage their worthiness. In ancient African legend, the hyena has heavy connotations with witchcraft. In Tanzania, it is believed that these creatures were actually considered to be a mode of transport.

During the Middle Ages, various groups believed that hyenas used to dig up and consume human corpses! Let’s dispel the myth a bit – hyenas are vital to a reserve roaming with predators. They clean up debris, remove rotting carcasses and thus prevent the spread of a potential disease. They’re beautiful, mysterious and fascinating!

Lions: Lions are powerful beasts and a much respected predator. With a roar that reverberates through the land, it’s hard not to pay attention to these cats. The white lion in particular carries with it many forms of superstition. Believed to be a sacred entity, it is thought to bring good luck to those that see it in the wild.

There are rumours abound that white lions can see the future and are agents of light. Truth be told, these lions are actually not a rare entity but merely a product of biology. They are leucistic, which means they lack pigmentation in certain areas of their body.

Owls : This night time raptor is certainly not short of superstitions and is dripping in lore. In some cultures it is believed that the owl symbolizes death, but other cultures believe it is a spirit watching over a warrior of the bushveld. Whatever you choose to believe, the fact is there are many species of owl within the Kruger. They’re quite common birds and are by no means eerie in their demeanour.

So, while you’re cocooned in your percale linen and guided by the soft light of the fading lanterns outside, you can be rest assured that there is no need to be spooked by the nocturnal life surrounding your chalet. Enjoy Africa as the night protects you while you sleep!

The Gorgeous Ground Hornbills of Klaserie

Some might consider it a face only a mother would love, but if you look a little more closely at the Southern ground hornbill, you’ll notice its luscious long eyelashes, mesmerising blue eyes, and the vibrancy of the bulging red skin on its face. This dinosaur-like bird is a relative of the yellow- and red-billed hornbill we see all over the reserve, so what makes this hornbill so different? Well, it’s listed as Vulnerable on the IUCN’s red list, and for good reason. There are only an estimated 3000 of these birds left in the wild, and they have a very slow reproductive cycle, making their future seem rather threatened. The Klaserie Private Nature Reserve, where Africa on Foot and nThambo Tree Camp are located is the home of a ground hornbill conservation project, where the Fitztitute’s Southern Ground-Hornbill Research Programme works hard to study the social aspect of these birds’ lives, and assist the wild birds with breeding effectively, so that they can maintain numbers.

The programme has been at work for 16 years, building many artificial nests to help give these large cooperative breeders suitable places to nest. Even though these are ground hornbills, they nest in the cavities of large trees, and are sometimes seen flying up into the safety of high branches. Such large birds with glossy black feathers, tipped with white feathers, which are exposed in flight, the ground hornbills really are a spectacular sight. Africa on Foot guests got a fantastic look at a family of these birds recently as a couple of them flew up into the branches of a green marula tree!

In the Klaserie, where assisted nesting takes place by the conservation-minded team of the ground hornbill project, we see more ground hornbills than, perhaps, elsewhere. South Africa is the home to about half of the total population of these birds in southern Africa – an honour and a responsibility. In aiding these birds’ nesting practices, the programme workers have studied the environment which enables the successful breeding of ground hornbills and replicated that in the form of artificial nests. What happens often in the wild is the breeding pair might produce two eggs, but only one chick survives, so under the strict conditions of the conservation project, researchers have managed to produce two chicks out of two eggs, and therefore doubling the reproductive rate of the breeding pair.

Being cooperative breeders, not every male and female bird will pair up and mate. In fact, there is only one breeding pair, and the rest of the birds in the group tend to be young males, which have stuck around since birth. The breeding female in the group only lays 1-2 eggs every 9 years during breeding season, making the successful birth and rearing of the chicks most imperative to the survival of the species. Unfortunately, as environments change over long periods of time, there might not be the same amount of large, thick-trunk trees around, offering suitable nesting spaces for these birds. They have not been known to adapt easily to the changing surroundings in finding a ‘replacement’ nesting spot, so the chances of breeding successfully become slim.

These fascinating ground birds are strict carnivores, and are frequently seen eating snakes (even the venomous ones!). When we come across ground hornbills on safari, we find them foraging on the ground where they use their large beaks to attack reptiles like snakes and lizards, or perhaps mice, birds, or tortoises. In Xitsonga, the local language in this area of Limpopo, a ground hornbill is called ‘nghututu’, which refers to the deep repetitive bass beat of its call. It is an all-round fascinating bird, and we are honoured to be able to show our guests this prehistoric-looking creature to add to their safari experience!

Stay at Ezulwini and Tantalize the Tastebuds

It’s an exhausting affair sitting in an open-topped Land Rover traversing the rough bushveld of the Balule Nature Reserve; which is why Ezulwini Game Lodges feel the overwhelming desire to ensure you’re looked after…And that includes your stomach!

Seeing a herd of elephants crunching through the thickets and devouring fresh vegetation makes your heart ache for crisp salad. Observing the River Pride of lions tucking into the rib-cage of a buffalo calf makes your stomach grumble for a delicious steak prepared on an open fire. Seeing the plains game quench their thirst at available waterholes is certain to stir a longing for something fresh and sparkling to drink.

With an abundance of food and water available for our wildlife, chefs at Ezulwini decided it would only be fitting for the human element to enjoy the same supply. Of course, it goes without saying that chefs don’t require guests to work for their food. As a matter of fact, you can sit back on one of the viewing decks and a drink of your choice will be delivered to your quivering hand.

Here’s the lowdown of what to expect in terms of food and drinks at Ezulwini Game Lodges:

The Food at Ezulwini Game Lodges:

Depending on the occasion and which lodge you’re staying at, Ezulwini has many idyllic little spots that are set-up for your dining pleasure. At Ezulwini River Lodge guests can expect a traditional evening of dancing accompanied by a braai. A braai is, arguably, the preferred method of cooking for many South Africans. A braai is when your meat and vegetables are cooked over hot coals made from a wood fire. Chefs may even whip up a potjie, which is similar to a stew but made in a cast iron pot.

The Ezulwini chefs ensure you are sufficiently full and focus on providing a combination of westernised home-cooked food with a flair of African cuisine.

Breakfast is a standard English breakfast and seasonal fruits are served beforehand. Lunch is normally a light affair with small pastries and salad. Tea is an assortment of cakes and sweet things.

Then of course, during your game drive guests can expect a few nibbly snacks. Now is your chance to try biltong, local cheeses and rusks.

The Drinks at Ezulwini Game Lodges:

It goes without saying that while on safari, you need to indulge in the local selection of beverages. Whatever your taste, whether it’s non-alcoholic or alcoholic, Ezulwini is bound to have a range of drinks to tantalize your taste buds. South African soft drinks differ somewhat to the rest of the world, so there’s plenty to try there. Of course, firm favourites like Coke are readily available.

In terms of local brews, we suggest a South African beer such as Castle. There are plenty of wines available and there’s nothing better than a glass of red while sitting on the balcony of your suite. Then there’s Amarula, a creamy liqueur drink served best with blocks. This drink is made from the fruit of the marula tree and is synonymous with Africa.

International brands and spirits are available. The safari drink of choice is actually a gin and tonic – the tonic is believed to ward of mosquitoes. The most celebrated hour on safari is the golden hour when the sun begins to set. Rangers may take you to a few special sundowner spots to make the most of the brazen African sky.

Wine Tasting at Ezulwini Game Lodges:

The cobble stoned stairs at Ezulwini Billy’s Lodge lead from the pathway down to a heavy wooden door, that gives no indication of what mysteries lie beyond its exterior. The secret is, there is a wine cellar enclosed in a cave. Ancient bushmen artefacts adorn the crooks and crevices; while fine wines line the shelves. Sit a while and Laurence will educate you about the history of the Balule Nature Reserve as you enjoying a wine tasting. What can be better than sampling wine and listening to tales from a bygone era?

A Goodnight Kiss from a Leopard – Tuskers Bush Camp

The north of Botswana is a vast, interconnected wilderness of protected lands. While lodges and camps dot the Moremi and Chobe, in the neighbouring private concession, you are completely alone. Tuskers Bush Camp is the only place to stay in the entire 365,000 square hectare wilderness area, offering a boutique luxury experience with only six tented camps hosting a maximum of eight people.

Falling asleep on a fluffy pillow, under the canvas of your tent and the silence of the stars, it is easy to restfully dream the night away. In the morning, staff prepare a steaming wood fired shower, and as the sun peeks over the mopane trees, it is easy to imagine that all remained quiet throughout the night.

However, a quick look at the nocturnal pictures from the camp traps will show you the lions, porcupines and hyenas that were mulling around, sometimes right on your doorstep. On my second night at Tuskers Bush Camp I awoke with the sun to see my guide, Chief, walking towards my tent with his eyes on the ground. It looked like he was in deep concentration, but he met me with a grin. “Do you know what these are”, he inquired pointing to the white sands.

I was surprised to see wildlife tracks running around in all directions. I guess it had not been as quiet as I thought the night before. He was pointing directly at one that was unmistakably a large cat paw print. I peered intently at it. It was too small to be a lion, and then he announced, “leopard”.

He had followed the tracks from the kitchen to my tent, and he jokingly retraced its steps with his. Strutting like a leopard down the path towards my tent, he turned and followed them right to the mesh tent door. Chief widened his grin even more. “The leopard was watching you sleep”, he explained.

Our eyes met, and we laughed. Even though we both knew I was perfectly safe in the tent, it is always nerve racking to have such a large predator watching you sleep. After all, I am sure the leopard just wanted to give me a goodnight kiss. At Tuskers Bush Camp there might not be any other humans around for miles, but be assured that in this bush, you will certainly not be alone!

End of an Era for Trilogy as Mapoza Lions Takes Over

As we know, male lions spend their lives fighting for territory and dominance of prides, but we can’t help but feel some sense of disbelief when we see it happen in front of our eyes. What’s happened in our neck of the woods in the Klaserie over the weekend has left us confident that we have bid farewell to the reign of the Trilogy male lions. These 3 males arrived as nomads from the Kruger National Park 2.5 years ago and swiftly chased the Good and the Bad, as well as the rest of the Ross Pride, off their turf. We have covered their every move on our blog, Facebook page, and YouTube channel, as our guests have enjoyed superb experiences with them, and now it looks like we’re seeing the end of an era for the coalition as the Mapoza males send a message, loud an clear.

This weekend, both Mapoza male lions were seen mating with the Ross Breakaway lionesses (not the first time), but there was something brazen about their most recent performance. With the last remaining Trilogy male having been seen briefly last week fleeing towards a property known as Bateleur’s Nest, it looks like the Mapozas took the opportunity to proclaim a victory by mating with the Breakaway females and roaring loudly to finish the deed. It was an unforgettable sighting for Africa on Foot and nThambo Tree Camp guests, who were viewing from close proximity in the game viewers. Over a couple of days both camps got to see these king cats in action, as lions spend a good few days mating continuously. The bonus sighting was when the younger Mapoza male ended the deed with a good roar, mere metres from Enoch, who was sitting on the Africa on Foot tracker seat!

Over the last months we have seen less and less of the Trilogy, as they have spent a good portion of time in the Timbavati after the Mapoza moved in and proclaimed their intention to stick around. One of the Trilogy males died earlier this year, leaving the duo to defend the turf. The two remaining Trilogy spent more and more time away from their old stomping ground, and we saw them intermittently when they crossed back over in pursuit of buffalo. About a month ago, it was reported that the one Trilogy male was seen alone, calling for two days straight. This was after his brother was seen in very poor condition after not recovering from wounds. Things were not looking promising for him. Then, last week, one Trilogy male was seen crossing through the property, moving quickly and without any intention to show his presence. Only days later, the Mapoza males were discovered, as shown in our video and photos, mating with the Breakaway lionesses.

Is this the end of the Trilogy? With only one male left, he has no leg to stand on against an up and coming coalition like the Mapozas, and would be wise to move off. What lies ahead for this male is a possible nomadic lifestyle, or attempting to take over a pride where there is no existing dominant male. He might fight for territory, and this might kill him, but he might succeed and take over – we can only theorise what could lie ahead, but it is unlikely we will see this male on his old territory again. What will our future hold with the two Mapoza males in charge? We’re excited for the future of the Klaserie lions!

Week in Pictures: A Little Slice of Heaven

We’ve spent the week cruising through the waterways of the Delta, bumbling over the rocky terrain of the Balule Nature Reserve, accelerated through the thick sand of Botswana, and sailed across the plains of the Sabi Sand and the sandy riverbeds in the Klaserie. We’ve seen the beginnings of rain add touches of green to the tree tops, and the brightly coloured blossom of the wild pomegranate transform the drought-stricken landscape. The week’s wildlife sightings have, once again, impressed the judges and we find ourselves celebrating a Friday afternoon with the weekly recap of the photographic winners! Highlights from the camps include the following:

Tuskers Bush Camp: Dining under a 1000 year old baobab, illuminated in the spotlight of the full moon.

Ezulwini Game Lodges: Romance is in the air!

Africa on Foot & nThambo Tree Camp: Hyena and lion interaction at a buffalo kill in Klaserie.

Umkumbe Safari Lodge: Catching up with Mxabene, leopard legend of the southern Sabi Sand.

Now take a look at the best of them all with the Week in Pictures: A Little Slice of Heaven!

nThambo Tree Camp, Klaserie Private Nature Reserve, Greater Kruger Park

Africa on Foot, Klaserie Private Nature Reserve, Greater Kruger Park

Umkumbe Safari Lodge, Sabi Sand Wildtuin, Greater Kruger Park

Ezulwini Game Lodges, Balule Nature Reserve, Greater Kruger Park

Wildside Africa: Tuskers Bush Camp & Xobega Island Camp, Botswana

Hyena Cub Joins Clan’s Feeding Frenzy

Hyena certainly have a bad reputation in the wild for being nothing but an anxiety ridden scavenger that waits in the wings to steal predator kills. These notorious creatures are a rather complex species and bear remarkable similarities to both cats and dogs. Often mistaken for being a derivative of some sort of canine species, they hyena is more closely related to a cat than a dog.

Despite their misleading image, hyenas are one of the most incredible and powerful species in the animal kingdom. Kevin McLaughlin managed to film a hyena clan scent marking the surrounding shrubbery and an adorable cub joining the feeding frenzy.

Let’s explore the wonderful world of hyenas and find out more about the safari world’s most misunderstood animal.

Hyenas are possibly the most successful carnivores and cleaners in the bushveld. While you might balk at their brazen theft of food, hyenas do manage to steal from powerful lion prides. They also clean-up scraps of rotting meat, which may prevent the spread of disease.

In this video we notice the clan trying to displace the lioness from her recent kill. Find the lions, find the hyenas! It looks like she was pretty much done, judging by her gorged belly. You can hear the hyena’s vocalisations in the video – spotted hyena actually have 14 calls which extend from loud whooping sounds to nervous laughter. It appears that the rest of the clan may have been contact calling. Each call indicates a different emotion and form of clan contact.

We mostly see hyenas scavenging and running away with stolen morsels. But let’s not forget their bolshy hunting skills that have a relatively high success rate. They hunt by means of coursing. They head straight into a herd, eye out the weakest link and charge their prey until it is exhausted – they even disembowel them as they catch up to their prey.

Hyenas also spend time scent marking areas and emitting vocal displays of territories. Our videographer managed to watch the clan scent marking the shrubbery. They do this by wiping a secretion from their anal gland onto an area – this is actually called pasting.

Hyenas are the most misunderstood and remarkable of creatures. Here are a further five facts about hyenas that you probably didn’t know :

It’s tricky to sex a hyena. The female has a large penis-like external genital that is actually the opening to the birth canal. The female hyena contains higher levels of testosterone.

Females hold the cards within a clan. The lowest ranking females are dominant over male hyenas.

The faeces of a hyena turns white after a while. This is from the high calcium content from all the bones that have been digested.

Hyenas are born with their eyes open and an aggressive attitude !

When female cubs are born they automatically assume the rank of their mother. Large and dominant females are top in the hierarchy of a clan.

Mxabene’s Battle with Kaxane Male Leopard

We caught up with Umkumbe Safari Lodge field guide, Mauritz Senekal, and discovered some enchanting images of Mxabene male leopard from a couple of months back when he was seen patrolling his territory that crosses over our traverse. His classic, unmistakable face and domineering presence in this region of the Sabi Sand make him a familiar character in these parts. More recently, Umkumbe guests saw Mxabene the morning after a fight with another male leopard known as Kaxane/Kashane. According to history, this is not the first battle between these legendary males. This time, it looks like Mxabene won, as Kaxane was reported to be hanging way down south in the Sabi Sand.

We took a look back on the life of Mxabene, beginning at his birthplace on Londolozi…

Back in October 2008, Mxabene was born as one of two twin males to the Mxabene female – a well known and revered leopardess in the area. Her territory ran along the Mxabene riverbed, hence her name. She was incredibly relaxed around the presence of game viewers, and her two male cubs started life ‘in the spotlight’, so to speak. At that time, Mxabene was only know as the ‘pink nose juvenile’, while his brother was named the Tu Tones male, and developed quite the following as he lived his epic life on the Londolozi property. Eventually, when the brother leopards literally outgrew their mother, the trio split, and Tu Tones’ brother, who we know today as the legendary Mxabene, moved south and entered the property Umkumbe traverses, and is now a dominant presence.

No one was surprised when Mxabene (known as Makhotini back at his birthplace on Londolozi), continued to thrive. His father was a famous male known as Camp Pan, his mother was a female leopard that had raised many successful cubs, and his brother Tu Tones was making waves as a magnificent leopard in his territory. Mxabene has followed in his family footsteps and become a firm favourite at Umkumbe. He is 8 years old now, and looking more impressive than ever. Sadly, his brother Tu Tones was killed by baboons last year, bringing his life to an early end. The brothers’ father, Camp Pan, died last year at the ripe old age of 15.

Last month, the Kaxane male leopard, whose territory traverses Singita, was seen right down south in our neck of the woods and on Mxabene’s territory. Umkumbe guide Mauritz had the following to say:

“We saw Mxabene the morning after his fight with the Kaxane male. Kaxane was operating on Singita and most likely got pushed out, heading south where he unfortunately bumped into Mxabene. Max won and drove Kaxane even further south, to where he has now been seen in the southern parts of the of Sabi Sabi concession.”

Mxabene showed some swelling in his face and has a couple of new scars to add to his facial collection. Still, he continues to dominate, and we are honoured to see him living up to his legendary name.

How I quit job?

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“Believe in yourself! Without a humble but reasonable confidence in your own powers you cannot be successful or happy.”
– Hosea Ballou

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Duis sed odio sit amet nibh vulputate cursus a sit amet mauris. Morbi accumsan ipsum velit. Nam nec tellus a odio tincidunt auctor a ornare odio. Sed non mauris vitae erat consequat auctor eu in elit. Class aptent taciti sociosqu ad litora torquent per conubia nostra, per inceptos himenaeos. Nullam ac urna eu felis dapibus condimentum sit amet a augue. Sed non neque elit. Sed ut imperdiet nisi. Sed non mauris vitae erat consequat auctor eu in elit. Class aptent taciti sociosqu ad litora torquent per conubia nostra, per inceptos himenaeos.

Don’t forget to explore these things in Iceland

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Healthy beetroot smoothie

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Duis sed odio sit amet nibh vulputate cursus a sit amet mauris. Morbi accumsan ipsum velit. Nam nec tellus a odio tincidunt auctor a ornare odio. Sed non mauris vitae erat consequat auctor eu in elit. Class aptent taciti sociosqu ad litora torquent per conubia nostra, per inceptos himenaeos. Mauris in erat justo. Nullam ac urna eu felis dapibus condimentum sit amet a augue. Sed non neque elit. Sed ut imperdiet nisi.

Aenean sollicitudin, nec sagittis sem nibh id elit. Duis sed odio sit amet nibh vulputate cursus a sit amet mauris. Morbi accumsan ipsum velit. Nam nec tellus a odio tincidunt auctor a ornare odio. Sed non mauris vitae erat consequat auctor eu in elit. Class aptent taciti sociosqu ad litora torquent per conubia nostra, per inceptos himenaeos. Mauris in erat justo. Nullam ac urna eu felis dapibus condimentum sit amet a augue. Sed non neque elit. Sed ut imperdiet nisi. Proin condimentum fermentum nunc. Etiam pharetra, erat sed fermentum feugiat, velit mauris egestas quam, ut aliquam massa nisl quis neque. Suspendisse in orci enim.

“Believe in yourself! Without a humble but reasonable confidence in your own powers you cannot be successful or happy.”
– Hosea Ballou

Duis sed odio sit amet nibh vulputate cursus a sit amet mauris. Morbi accumsan ipsum velit. Nam nec tellus a odio tincidunt auctor a ornare odio. Sed non mauris vitae erat consequat auctor eu in elit. Class aptent taciti sociosqu ad litora torquent per conubia nostra, per inceptos himenaeos. P.C. Marlyn Monro Mauris in erat justo. Nullam ac urna eu felis dapibus condimentum sit amet a augue. Sed non neque elit. Sed ut imperdiet nisi.

Lightbox Gallery

Duis sed odio sit amet nibh vulputate cursus a sit amet mauris. Morbi accumsan ipsum velit. Nam nec tellus a odio tincidunt auctor a ornare odio. Sed non mauris vitae erat consequat auctor eu in elit. Class aptent taciti sociosqu ad litora torquent per conubia nostra, per inceptos himenaeos. Nullam ac urna eu felis dapibus condimentum sit amet a augue. Sed non neque elit. Sed ut imperdiet nisi. Sed non mauris vitae erat consequat auctor eu in elit. Class aptent taciti sociosqu ad litora torquent per conubia nostra, per inceptos himenaeos.

Don’t forget to explore these things in Iceland

Sed non mauris vitae erat consequat auctor.
Class aptent taciti sociosqu ad litora.
Torquent per conubia nostra
Per inceptos himenaeos.