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Week in Pictures: Wild at Heart

Fridays mean a lot of things to a lot of people, and to us it means it’s time to reflect on the top wildlife sightings to come out of our Kruger and Botswana camps during the week! As per Friday tradition, we like to ease into the afternoon with a collection of images captured in the right place at the right time. From the birds and the bees, to the beastliest beasts, we’ve received the best of what nature has to offer. The seasons are changing and summer is soon upon us. The mornings are getting lighter earlier and the days, hotter. The arrival of migrant birds is setting Twitchers astir, and the binoculars are being kept at close hand. Spring has brought about the flowering of trees that have stood bare for the winter months, and now we’re seeing splashes of yellow, red and purple adding vibrant colour to the bush.

Take a look at our most recent collection of safari photography, fresh from the Kruger and Botswana bush in this edition of the Week in Pictures: Wild at Heart!

Africa on Foot, Klaserie Private Nature Reserve, Greater Kruger Park

nThambo Tree Camp, Klaserie Private Nature Reserve, Greater Kruger Park

Umkumbe Safari Lodge, Sabi Sand Wildtuin, Greater Kruger Park

Ezulwini Game Lodges, Balule Nature Reserve, Greater Kruger Park

Tuskers Bush Camp, Moremi East Wilderness Area, Botswana

World Rhino Day 2016: Our Modern Day Dinosaurs

Today – World Rhino Day – brings global awareness to the battle against rhino poaching, and the reality of a future without the iconic animals that have existed on this earth for millions of years. Tragically, these rhinos, which have adapted to the dramatically changing planet over their many, many generations of life, are now facing the possibility of extinction due to poaching. Today, we want to celebrate the life of rhinos, roaming the wild where they belong, with a compilation of our favourite rhino photos captured on safari. It is an increasing privilege to see rhinos living freely, and every moment we’ve shared in their presence is cherished. Enjoy this album dedication to our rhinos this #WorldRhinoDay!

Carnivore Feast in the Sabi Sand

While out on game drive, guests from Umkumbe Safari Lodge enjoyed two different sightings of carnivores feasting on recent kills. A clan of hyenas bathed in bloodied, matted fur were fully submerged inside the cavity of a dead buffalo. There was plenty of high-pitched cackles and excitement surrounding the availability of meat from their very own kill. The rather large Mhangeni Pride of lions have become proficient hunters and have definitely wowed the Sabi Sand with their accurate targetting of prey. This time round, they weren’t on a buffalo kill but chose a zebra as their meal of the day!

That’s two carnivore feasts being enjoyed on the Umkumbe Safari Lodge traverse. Clearly this reserve delivers incredible meat platters to our wildlife and should be labelled the “land of fine dining and exotic cuisine” for predators.

Hyena Clan on Buffalo Kill

Hyena are talented hunters and scavengers; but given the opportunity they will scavenge. They have no fear and will attempt to dislodge lions and leopards from freshly made kills. Let’s face it, stealing food is a lot less effort than finding it yourself. Hyena have a large skull and bone-crushing jaw that they’re not afraid to use!

It’s not often we share images of hyenas with their very own kill – it’s normally of them scavenging the remnants of a cat kill – but in this case, they conducted their own kill. So, just how does this species conduct a hunt? Hyena hunt by coursing. They don’t stalk or ambush, but instead, simply approach their next victim, directly and boldly.

They’ll chase their prey until it slows down and then begin to disembowel them. Yes, you read correctly. They eat their prey alive! It’s not as bad as it sounds – death approaches quite quickly after being disemboweled. They begin to eat immediately because of the competition for food in the wild.

Mhangeni Pride on Zebra Kill

The Mhangeni Pride is renown for their buffalo killing antics, but this time they felt like ordering something different from the menu. The lionesses from the pride are excellent mothers. In 2013 they gave birth to 9 cubs and they’re all alive ! A near impossible feat. They have just recently birthed another 12. It’s no surprise that this pride is constantly in search of meals-on-wheels. It’s a huge pride to feed!

Lions hunt by stalking and ambushing their prey from all angles. Unfortunately, they weren’t given the speed of a cheetah and thus will only charge when about 30m from prey. A lion’s hunting tactic relies on technique and strength. They have designated roles within a formation and confine themselves to roles similar to that of field sports – left, centre and right wing positions. Each hunt is executed with a rough plan in mind. One lion stares directly at the prey and the rest of the “team” see this as a clear form of communication to commence the attack.

Hercules Pride Lions Hunting Buffalo

The Hercules Pride has made a name for itself as a ferocious family of lions, determined to remain wild, and intolerant of neighbouring prides. Their usual territory is on a private property neighbouring Africa on Foot, but with the lack of fences in the Klaserie, the lions move freely and lately we’ve been seeing them more and more on our traverse. Living private lives and spending very little time around game viewers, they’ve retained a very cautious and skeptical attitude towards us. Slowly, the Hercules lionesses and their 4 subadult cubs have settled down, and over the weekend we were lucky enough to catch them hunting buffalo!

The pride was found along one of the cutlines tucking in to a buffalo kill on Sunday, filling up nicely, and giving us the beady eyeball once in a while, but generally behaving in a rewardingly relaxed manner. Thinking the lions would have been satisfied from their meal, we were pleasantly surprised to find them again yesterday morning tailing a herd of buffalo once again! Lions are opportunistic feeders, meaning they will generally eat whenever the opportunity presents itself, whether their stomachs are full or not. When a herd of buffalo was spotted in range, the younger lions made half an effort to hunt again, and the Africa on Foot and nThambo vehicles were there to witness the action.

The pride was on top form, giving us a show of social interaction, grooming, and playfulness, which was fantastic for our guides and guests. The rangers from both camps have been so patient with this pride over the last 18 months, watching, waiting, and giving them a lot of space to familiarise themselves with us. When they could show their guests these 6 beautiful lions actively chasing buffalo and enjoying one another, it was very well received!

Mike reported following the Hercules Pride as they gave chase on the herd of buffalo, and guests watched from the game viewer as the young males weaved in and out of the thicket behind the herd. There wasn’t a real effort put into the chase and the lions seemed only to be testing their skills, eyeing out the herd for scragglers, young buffalo and weak members of the herd. This is classic behaviour and very interesting to watch, especially when we’re talking about the Hercules Pride! Aside from the odd snarl, the lions seem to be much more at ease with our presence, and we hope for more sightings like these!

BREAKING: 3 New Lion Cubs for Ross Breakaway Lionesses!

What could be more exciting than a fresh batch of lion cubs? Not very much! The top discovery of the weekend has to be the breaking news of the new Ross Breakaway cubs. With all the superb lion action taking place in the Klaserie, from the Hercules Pride, to the Mapozas, we’ve had enough to keep our appetites for lion drama suppressed, but now we’re starving for more! The news – brought to us by safari guide, Brett Horley – is that 3 tiny balls of fur have been born and were spotted near Nyala Dam in the Klaserie. As per reserve protocol, the area will be referred to as a ‘negative loc’, which means no one will be allowed to approach for the next two weeks in order to give the lioness and her newborns privacy and safety for the first few weeks of life.

The cubs have been born to the younger of the two Ross Breakaway lionesses, which is the same female that bore the last litter of cubs a year ago. Those two cubs made it to 9 weeks old before being tragically killed by the Hercules Pride, which is considered natural behaviour in the wild. These three cubs can’t be more than a few days old now after we saw the lioness with a nicely swollen belly on a couple of occasions recently. The last few times we’ve seen the Ross Breakaway lionesses they’ve been nice and plump from a recent meal, so it has been difficult to tell how far along she was, but now we will wonder no more!

This lioness has always been weary of the Mapoza males, particularly after they fought over a couple of meals, and tends to keep her distance from them. She was spotted mating with the Mabande male on a few occasions a couple of months back, so he is most likely the one to have sired the cubs.

Mabande has since moved away from the territory, as the Mapozas stepped in with force, which of course brings about the issue of the cubs’ safety. It is widely known that male lions tend to eliminate the offspring of competing males in order to mate and bring their own cubs into the pride, strengthening and increasing their gene pool. Maybe the Mapozas will tolerate the cubs because one of them was seen mating with the other Ross Breakaway lioness around the same time, and perhaps these cubs will be adopted as their own.

This lioness is most easily recognised these days by her lack of top canines. She appeared to have lost first one, and now both, her upper canines, most likely through hunting or fighting. This doesn’t seem to interfere with her feeding, as she uses her molers to shear and chew meat, but it might impair her ability to make successful kills on her own, so her close knit relationship with her sister lioness is important.

Week in Pics: Celebrating the Wild on World Ozone Day

Today is World Ozone Day, a day intended to spread awareness about the depletion of the Ozone layer and how we can work together to preserve it. September 16 was designated by the United Nations General Assembly as the International Day for the Preservation of the Ozone Layer. Whether it be in a personal or commercial capacity, every effort made towards becoming “green” helps save our planet. Recycling, harnessing the sun’s energy for solar power or reducing the use of CFCs that directly impact the Ozone layer all have their place for the greater good of Mother earth.

Today’s week in pictures we’re going to celebrate the raw wild of the Kruger. Here, our wildlife roams free on pristine landscapes, taking in breaths of pure clean air and thriving in a preserved environment unmarred by human interference. Lodges respect their environment and reduce their impact on the surrounds wherever possible.

The sunsets, smell of the bushveld, crystal clear blue skies and cascading unfiltered night skies are testament to the naturalness of the area.

Ezulwini Game Lodges in the Balule Nature Reserve

Things are certainly heating up with the lion prides in the Balule Nature Reserve. A number of the younger sub-adult males are “coming of age” which means there’ll plenty of play for power in the near future. At the realm of the web of lion confusion and shifting dynamics are the four Mohlabetsi males. Ruling over the Mohlabetsi Pride, the Impalabos and the River Pride, these boys always make a statement in their kingdom. Just recently, one of the burgeoning youngsters from the River Pride has been spotted together with another female from the River Pride.

Apart from the interesting observations regarding Ezulwini Game Lodges’ lions, there have also been regular leopard sightings. On Wednesday an unknown female was hunting a duiker and the Van Wijk’s leopardess has been spotted patrolling her turf. If the big cat sightings weren’t enough, this week the Balule rangers rewarded us with rather rare hippo and crocodile sightings.

Umkumbe Safari Lodge in the Sabi Sand

This week, two leopards were spotted in one night! The Bicycle Crossing male was seen within the first twenty minutes of the evening game drive with Umkumbe, utilising his favourite pathway that winds its way across the Sand River. Later on that evening, the graceful Kigelia was seen quite close to Bicycle’s turf.

In terms of carnivores, the Charleston male lions were spotted. The “one with the tooth” is still fighting strong and has adapted his way of life to suit his small deformity. The wild dog sightings are dwindling somewhat, but that’s because the pups are old enough to start a nomadic lifestyle that is typical to African wild dogs. They’re normally only sedentary during the denning period which is May – August.

Interestingly enough, due to the arid bushveld at the moment, the plains game seem to be flocking to the lawns of the lodge for succulent grasses. While guests have been sitting on the deck overlooking the Sand River watching elephants and buffalo cross the banks; the nyala and bushbuck have been relaxing on the lawns behind them. The lodge has been literally cocooned by wildlife!

There also seem to be plenty of aquatic creatures at the moment in the Sabi Sand. Hippos have been spotted quite regularly guarding their territory. Rangers have also spotted hippos at night, which is when they emerge from the waters to forage.

Africa on Foot and nThambo Tree Camp in the Klaserie Private Nature Reserve

There’s been plenty of activity at Africa on Foot and nThambo Tree Camp, with both wildlife and lodge lifestyle. The elephant herds have regularly been enjoying drinking from both camp’s swimming pools, which has become a local watering hole for these pachyderms. The Klaserie is very dry at the moment, so water is scarce. Elephants will only drink pristine, clear and healthy water – which clearly the pools provides! In sticking with the local drinking hole theme, lodge managers from nThambo Tree Camp and Africa on Foot decided to host a wine pairing evening under African skies. A very pleasant surprise for guests.

What about the big cats? White Rock leopardess also spotted lately, offering us even more leopard excellence, and a baboon on the lookout also provided us with some great photo opportunities. Ross Dam’s two 9 month old cubs often appear in the same area, time and time again. Hopefully they’ll stay in this area in the future; but leopards are notoriously elusive so we can’t actually tell!

Despite the clear lack of water and the ever-changing landscapes, the one thing that remains constant is the presence of lions. The Trilogy haven’t been seen in ages and that’s because the new boys, the Mapoza males, have a heavy presence on old Trilogy turf. They’re often seen together with the Ross Pride Breakaway lionesses.

The rough, tough, ruthless and sneaky lion pride called the Hercules have made themselves more visible over recent weeks. But they never hang around long enough for any conflict between the Mapoza’s and their males. Yet again, this week the Mapoza’s and the Hercules Pride were seen.

But that’s not all, there’s plenty of colour at the moment. In between the elephant and big cats sightings, rangers almost always stumble across buffalo herds bathing, birds twittering, dwarf mongooses darting between termite mounds, plains game littering the reserve and birds of prey displaying their beauty in the skies that watch over the Klaserie.

Happy World Ozone Day everyone, come to the bushveld to get back in touch with a place that’s unmarred by over commercialism, toxins and civilisation.

Wine Tasting in the Kruger Wilderness

The combination of wine tasting and safari could possibly be the match made in heaven we’ve all been dreaming about. Packing a cooler box with your refreshment of choice is game drive protocol, but a wine tasting event on safari is nThambo Tree Camp and Africa on Foot’s idea of how to watch the sunset!

You know you’re on safari when that tangerine skyline is interrupted by the spiky outline of thorny acacias, and the warm evening air is thick with the sound of crickets and nightjars. The scorching afternoon sun has melted your sunscreen, and your memory card is choc-a-block with images of Africa and a clip of that baby elephant with attitude. As the light softens and warms to a shade of apricot, attention is turned to the cooler box, clinking away in the back of the game viewer…

On this particular occasion in the Kruger’s wild Klaserie Nature Reserve, nThambo Tree Camp and Africa on Foot arranged for a special sunset event: wine tasting on safari! Out in the sticks, where wildlife roams free, a table awaits, laden with ice buckets full of wine and platters full of salty snacks.

A representative from Hoedspruit’s local wine shop, Safari Wines, joined the camp managers in welcoming the guests to their exclusive wine tasting. After a friendly greeting, the various wines were introduced, while alternative refreshments were on offer for those with a taste for lager, as opposed to Chardonnay! Bottles of bubbly, smooth blends, and South Africa’s unique Pinotage did the rounds, as guests swilled the warming liquid in their glasses and sniffed the fragrant bouquets, all the while surrounded by the bushveld.

Sunset is a significant time of day in Africa, celebrated by many South Africans with a glass full of something cold, and a good buddy or two. In the world of safari, sundowners are treated with the utmost respect, and when that sun begins to set, there is nothing else to do but disembark the vehicle and toast the end of another day in the bush.

Lions of the Moremi: Brothers in Arms

On our return trip after two glorious nights at Xobega Island Camp earlier this week, a group of visitors and myself were fortunate enough to witness an extraordinary scene involving two big cats.

It all began with a nice sighting of a young male lion, sprawled full length alongside a termite mound in the shade of an acacia, where he was dozing peacefully out of the mid morning sun.

He was in good condition and we were all very pleased to see him. Cameras clicked away and he paid us not the slightest bit of attention as we marvelled at him. The shaggy locks of his golden man had not fully developed, but he made for an impressive sight nonetheless. He was big, strong and healthy. In a year or two he’d be a force to be reckoned with.

An instant later, though, his whole demeanor changed. He got to his feet and turned, ignoring us all the while. He sniffed and pricked up his ears. Something had got his attention alright.

Just then he began to call. There was something different about the sound he made though. It was timid and anxious. There was an unmistakable note of desperation. This was far from the brute territorial roar emitted by a mature male surveying his realm; this was something else entirely.

If he received a response we did not hear it, but he suddenly began to move. He took off at a trot, emitting his peculiar plaintive calls every so often in mid-stride as he went. We could not help but follow. We had to see how this drama played out and he certainly didn’t seem to mind our presence behind him.

He made his way across a grassy plain with our vehicle in pursuit along the path behind him. He moved gracefully and with unmistakable purpose, eyes fixed intently ahead of him. Was it a female he was after? An intruder on his turf? We were perplexed and absolutely engrossed in the dramatic scene.

At last a shape materialised in the long grass ahead of him. It was another lion, also alone. Obscured as it was we could not tell it’s sex, but it was calling to our male as he approached. As he drew closer the second lion emerged from the long tufts of grass that screened him from our vision and revealed himself to be another young male.

The older of the two slowed as he approached, and they made some yowling sounds and bared their teeth in the prelude to what was an extremely affectionate greeting. They rubbed up against one another and seemed to check on each other’s well-being before the younger of the two collapsed on the ground and the elder stood protectively over him.

These two lions were nomadic males, brothers, interlopers in and across other established territories. They had likely been split up during some incident or altercation, and we’d been lucky enough to witness their joyful reunion on the grassy flats of Moremi.

Male lions are typically expelled from the pride around their third year, and from then on they’re on their own until, one day, they claim a territory of their own. Survival rates are low because making it alone in the wild is tough even for a creature as fearsome as this.

They’re called nomadic because they typically rove around, never spending too long in one spot lest they draw the attention of a resident male. Finding food is difficult too, and nomadic males must often make do with scavenged leftovers and opportunism.

The world is a dangerous place for a lion like this, and for this reason they often team up with others in a similar position, at a similar age and stage. These alliances are often built upon blood-ties, and the bonds formed during these difficult early years often last a lifetime. They can be the basis for coalitions strong enough to rule large prides and command large swathes of territory.

Bonds like this are not only useful for short term survival, in other words, but can be determining factors in the future success or failure of male lions. For this reason the bonds of loyalty and affection that bind these animals are strong, and the visitors and I were granted a rare insight into this relatively obscure aspect of the lives of lions in the form of two separated brothers finding each other in the midst of a harsh and hostile environment.

It was a rare privilege, and one I will not soon forget.

Balule Lion Catch-up : The Boys, the Prides, the Drama

We recently reported the wild card antics from the power hungry Mohlabetsi boys enforcing their dominance over the prides within the Balule. But now it’s time to focus on two other prominent prides on the Ezulwini Traverse – Duma’s Pride and the River Pride.

Before we tell you about our recent sightings from the past five days, here’s a brief background and quick catch-up from the past 10 days:

The Mohlabetsi males are a coalition of 4 lions, with Duma’s brother at the forefront of the group.

The coalition appears to rule over the Impalabos Pride, River Pride and the Mohlabetsi Pride.

The River Pride is often seen in various sub-groups and split offs. It’s a pride of 13, so we’re not surprised.

Duma’s Pride seems to avoid the coalition of four.

It is speculated that Duma fled to the neighbouring Klaserie Private Nature Reserve, but has recently returned. Duma’s brother appeared to have a scuffle a few days ago and rangers are wondering if it wasn’t perhaps a showdown between him and his brother.

A couple of days ago a lone female was seen casually cruising on a pathway leading from the waterhole back into the thickets. With a full belly and fur looking bedraggled from devouring a meal, it was clear she was going to return to the kill site. The game viewer followed the lioness from a safe distance as she headed west.

The lioness from the River Pride eventually led everyone to an open area where a young male was waiting close to a recent giraffe kill. The two lions relaxed together close to the kill. The young male lion is rumoured to be about 5 years old and is one of the youngsters from the River Pride.

Thus far, the Mohlabetsi crew have not sought any type of showdown or fight with this male and have let him stay within the pride.

However, he is at the age where he is reaching sexual maturity and will seek to dominate. Jochen questions the situation wondering why these two lions were without the pride.

Questions are:

Have the coalition decided that the male is now a huge threat and kicked him out?
Did the lone lioness follow this male in his quest for a new life?
Was it the lionesses in the pride that ouster him in order for him to seek his own pride and territory?
Because of the drought conditions, has the weather had an adverse effect on the pride functioning together? Have they split off?

Within the next year, as the youngsters grow, the dynamics will shift. Young males are always challenging the status quo!

So, that’s the update about the River Pride of lions.

After indulging in a few sundowner drinks during a spectacular golden hour in the Balule, guide Jochen decided to return to the area where the lioness and lone male were fraternizing. In the area, a further three sub-adult males from the River Pride were spotted hovering in the wings. They seemed quite timid and wary of approaching the immediate area because of the presence of the older male. The three young boys were probably wanting some form of a meal but had to get past the two lion guards first!

The following morning Duma’s Pride was spotted on the move but they were strolling around looking for an area to sleep. Lions sleep for up to 20 hours a day to conserve their energy for patrolling and hunting during the night.

The pride eventually lay down and sprawled out everywhere. In total, there were 3 lionesses and 6 sub-adults dotted among the shrubbery! There was no sign of the dominant king, Duma, because they were deep in the heart of the Mohlabetsi pride territory.

That’s all for the Balule Lion Catch-up . Catch us next week more lion stories from Ezulwini in the Balule Nature Reserve!

A Honeymoon Dinner with Africa’s Gentle Giants

What’s on your honeymoon wishlist? A destination unknown, perhaps? Maybe your honeymoon is your first trip to the African bush, where iconic animals roam free under night skies scattered with stars, planets, and galaxies visible to the naked eye. There is a certain romance in the warm evening air, the shrill call of cicadas unseen, and the aromas released by the wild sage bush. When elephants unexpectedly join your table set for two and drink peacefully from the swimming pool at your feet, you know you’ve reached African honeymoon royalty!

Honeymoon travellers receive special attention at Africa on Foot, the home of South African walking safaris; from a warm welcome at reception, to a romantic turn down in their bush bedrooms, and a private dinner arranged in a scenic location at the lodge. The swimming pool, raised on wooden decking and surrounded by the unfenced wilderness, is a secluded and tranquil setting for private dining, and it just so happens that the wild elephants of Kruger have adopted it as their ever-abundant watering hole.

A night out under the lanterns’ glow, embraced by the sounds of wildlife, and only your newly wed’s eyes to gaze into; this is already a night to remember! Just as starters are laid on your table and you raise your glass in a toast to the good life, a rustle in the bush and an exhale of breath break the silence and bring your attention to your unexpected dinner guests. Elephants, big and small, gracefully approach the dimly lit swimming pool and habitually dip their leathery trunks into the still water, sending ripples across the surface to meet you.

What began as a special honeymoon dinner in Africa, has become a series of moments you’ll never forget. To sip champagne in silence, mere metres from a herd of elephants, and to hold the hand of your loved one across a table made for two, is to create memories of an African honeymoon you can cherish for a lifetime.