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Kwatale Conservancy Lion Update : Invasion of the Picnic Pan Triad

Tranquillity reigned at Picnic Pan on the Kwatale Conservancy this week as some guests and I sat enjoying the sunset, but all that was shattered when the quiet evening air erupted into a cacophony of rapidly approaching roars.

A young male lion came galloping out of the last fading light of the day. He moved with poise, power, and determination – something was up. The knob-billed ducks we’d been watching as they paddled placidly on the pan scattered, took flight, and were gone. The evening was about to take on rather a different tone.

He was in good condition, a male with the scraggly beginnings of a mane on the verge of adulthood. He was claws and teeth and tightly coiled muscle moving briskly through a patch of stunted mopane trees towards us. We sat and watched, enrapt.

As he moved purposefully past us, without paying us the slightest attention, we realized that he wasn’t alone – more guttural vocalizations emanated from the bush behind him. In the world of big cats, this means politics.

Just then another appeared, a larger male this time. His mane was fuller and he was altogether more fearsome. He too trotted forward resolutely – he was not running from anything, he was running towards something.

Was this a fight of some kind? A territorial dispute? The continuing bellows of the two lions, and another set coming from the bush they’d come out of, made it clear that this was serious.

The two new arrivals skirted round the edge of the pan, furiously marking every bush in sight and roaring their lungs out. Soon they were joined by a third; roughly the same size and condition as the first. He joined them in their patrol of the circumference of the pan, marking and calling along with the others.

These were no enemies. They were allies. They were a triad, previously unseen in the area. And they were invading. There was no mistaking it: these three young males were intent on one thing and one thing only – they meant to claim a territory of their own. This territory.

They prowled and marked and called out their challenge to the world: “come and get us if you dare, we’re right here.” At one point there were answering calls from the East. One of the Kwatale Conservancy’s resident lions was on the line. Whoever it was, they did not see fit to put in an appearance – discretion is the better part of valour after all.

The three males made their way over to the opposite bank, alert all the while. They drank and lay down together on a slight rise in the ground, watching still and roaring intermittently. Their demeanour seemed to indicate that their challenge would not be met on this particular evening.

We watched them until the final afterglow of sunset faded to black, curious as much about these three interlopers themselves as we were about the consequences of their arrival. What would this mean for the resident lions? Would there be war? Would further areas change hands or would these three upstarts content themselves with a life of the margins? One thing was certain: these three were a force to be reckoned with. If they could hold on to their gains, they might make a very fine and a very fearsome coalition one day.

A Kaleidoscope of Colourful Skies While on Safari

It doesn’t matter what time of day it is in southern Africa, one thing’s for certain – above your head lies a blanket of hues and striking rays of colour. Renown for its sunsets, crisp blue skies and crystal clear night skies; Africa has more to offer than just exceptional game viewing! While we bring you stories of ruthless lion prides in the wild, industrious honey badgers and adoring leopard mothers, there’s another side to going on safari.

This is the side that pleases astronomers, geographers and romantics. For when that ball of fire lights up the surrounding sky, there’s nothing more breathtaking than watching the warm glow force the sky to slip into a different spectrum of colours. When the black canvas approaches and diamond pinpricks stab the dark sky above, it’s mesmerising. During the day the blinding blue of the sky is only broken by the texture of wispy clouds. The various phases of the sky during a 24 hour time-span makes for a kaleidoscope of colourful skies.

Sky in the day :

Day time skies in Botswana seem endless and are almost claustrophobic because of their ability to swallow the landscape below. The Okavango Delta reflects the sky above which is always hypnotic. As a country, Botswana is largely flat which means the sky is not interrupted by any raised areas.

In Kruger, the sky is slightly more broken by hills and the presence of the majestic Drakensberg mountains. The less moisture there is in the air, the less cloud cover. We all know that both the Kruger and Botswana have a lengthy dry period, which means skies aren’t cluttered with clouds, making it seem vast and rich in blue colours.

Sky in the evening :

The lack of pollution and humidity in the air creates mind-blowing colours when golden hour is upon us. The small particles combined with molecules in the atmosphere change direction of the light rays which causes them to scatter. This creates picturesque sunsets and the gentle hues of the evening sky. Clean and unpolluted air is the main ingredient common to brightly coloured sunrises and sunsets.

Sky at night :

The black night seems darker than ever and without the intrusion of street lights, stars shines brighter and life above is crystal clear.

The unpolluted sky is home to the southern cross, a famous and recognised asterism within the southern hemisphere. Five stars form the shape of a cross, making it the most distinct feature of the Cruz constellation. There are two noticeable bright stars which form part of the cross and these are rumoured to point the way to the Southern Celestial Pole.

Life on safari is ideal for stargazers and budding astronomers.

The Last Trilogy Male Lion Returns to Klaserie!

The unpredictable world of the wild strikes again and has taken us all by surprise with the unexpected and astonishing return of a lion king we thought long passed: The last remaining Trilogy male! The reign of the Trilogy – a coalition of 3 amber and black maned lions – was over almost a year ago when the Mapoza males and the Mabande male arrived in the area and chased the two living Trilogy males out of their domain. We could not have imagined we would see the last Trilogy standing in this territory again, but on Friday, there he was – 7 months since disappearing – and joined by none other than the young male we recognise from the unknown pride we saw a couple of weeks ago.

What a moment to see this unmistakable lion again. His ferociously scarred muzzle, worn teeth, and a swollen elbow joint, which has clearly not slowed him down, were dead giveaways of his identity. He looked as tough as ever, and he now has a younger, large male at his side. What’s more is that there are 3 lionesses linked to this young male, which were not seen at the time, but were heard calling from a neighbouring property; a direction in which the two male lions were headed. We don’t know for a fact that the lions calling were the 3 lionesses we know to be affiliated with the younger male, but it is a possibility.

A glance back at our last sighting of this Trilogy male:

After the death of the first of the 3 Trilogy males about a year ago, the famous trio had narrowed down to 2. One of remaining duo was not in good condition after a buffalo hunt went bad, while the other (always the most dominant of the 3) was seemingly strong; but 1 male could not stand up to the force of the young and powerful Mapoza pair, and when it became obvious that the weaker Trilogy male had died, the last one standing was seen slinking through the area and disappearing into the thicket, quickly and quietly, avoiding confrontation. That memorable sighting was 7 months ago, and we did not think we would see that iconic, battle-scarred male again on this turf again, especially since the Mapoza males were such a strong presence.

This sighting just goes to show that we can never assume to have seen the last of a lion king unless we know he has died. When we witnessed the last Trilogy male slinking off into the bush all that time ago, we couldn’t have known he would return, but we did entertain the idea that he might one day return with a new partner in crime if he made it for long enough on his own. And here we are, seeing the return of this Trilogy male!

What next? Will these two stick together and fight for their place in old Trilogy territory? Will this pride become a force in the Klaserie? Or will the Mapoza males, or the young Sumatra males fight the newcomers off? Only time will tell, and time is what we have!

Lions and Hyenas on a Giraffe Kill

It was one of those times we caught the lions at the peak of their post-meal nap time, and it was a serious food coma after feasting on an enormous giraffe carcass, so we got more visual of the sneaky hyenas than the lions themselves, but what an amazing sighting it was! Golden afternoon light spilled through the drying bush and turned this sighting into a moody and magnificent meeting of the predators. There were two lions, young males, whose identity we do not yet know, and they were indulging in a serious snooze, while the snooping hyenas sniffed around the area.

Fellow rangers had reported seeing a limping giraffe in the east block of the Klaserie a few days ago, and yesterday afternoon it was confirmed that a giraffe (presumably the injured one) had been taken down by lions. Africa on Foot guests cruised through the bushveld in their game viewer and arrived at the scene of the sleeping male lions. The pair of golden boys had eaten their fill and were lying flat with engorged bellies rising and falling with heavy breaths. We have considered that the two males might be the two young Sumatra males we saw not long ago, but that is not confirmed. For one brief moment, one of the lions rose and we got half a look at him before he flopped down once again. A brief but magnificent sighting of these epic predators under a setting sun!

Week in Pictures: Nature’s Inspiration

Our human desire to seek inspiration is neverending. We find inspiration in people, in hobbies, in smells, sights, sounds, and tastes, and we certainly find inspiration in nature. The great outdoors hold some of the greatest and most natural beauty of this earth, and when it is left to its own devices, it comes across as even more magnetic and inspiring. We watch the world of wildlife exist, acting on instinct, and living and dying according to the law of survival of the fittest. Whenever we want to feel rejuvenated, refreshed, centred, calm, positive, inspired, we look to nature, and we are never disappointed. We are so enthralled by the natural world that we try to capture moments in time, freeze-framing them in photos, or duplicating them on film. Then, we share those captures with the world, and deliver our recycled source of inspiration, artistically reworked, injected with our own energy. Here is our weekly supply of nature’s best – the photographic representations of the top moments of the week on safari… This is the Week in Pictures: Nature’s Inspiration.

nThambo Tree Camp, Klaserie Private Nature Reserve, Greater Kruger

Africa on Foot, Klaserie Private Nature Reserve, Greater Kruger

Ezulwini Game Lodges, Balule Nature Reserve, Greater Kruger

Tuskers Bush Camp, Kwatale Conservancy, Northern Botswana

Umkumbe Safari Lodge, Sabi Sand Wildtuin, Greater Kruger Park

Xobega Island Camp : Delights of the Delta

Gentle jumbos push their way through the crystal clear waters of the Okavango Delta while bloats of hippo guard their channels with an alarming sense of aggression. Waders, passerines, kingfishers and birds of prey feed off the abundance of life arising from the waterways of one of the world’s largest inland water systems. Rare swamp dwelling antelopes curiously eye out their onlookers through tall, symmetrical reeds. The Okavango Delta is the land where wildlife roams free, a domain that is theirs to protect and patrol. As we glide by on our traditional mekoros and motorboats, we admire the sheer abundance of game in Africa’s paradise.

In the midst of the world dominated by wildlife lies the remote Xobega Island Camp, which forms part of our Botswana Trails route. Paired with the desolate Tuskers Bush Camp in the Kwatale Conservancy, Xobega adds a more water based experience to your safari. Getting there is half the fun. You’ll enjoy a day game drive through the Moremi Game Reserve, stopping en route to track wildlife and observe life at the many pans dotted throughout this pristine part of the world.

Upon arrive at Mboma boat station, you will have the option of enjoying a brief and gentle meander through the channels on a traditional mekoro (you’ll need to arrange this beforehand). Once your brief adventure activity is complete you’ll clamber onboard the motorboat that will deliver you to our very own slice of paradise.

The gentle hum of the engine purrs its way through the Delta while territorial hippos and sleazy crocs analyse the presence of humans in their turf. There is so much life in the Okavango Delta that you don’t even need to try find it. After an hour or so, an island shrouded in mystery appears out of nowhere. On the banks, where the water laps gently at the shores of the island, you’ll see warm smiles from our staff ready and eager to welcome you to Xobega Island.

The camp houses 10 Meru style tents interlinked by lush walkways and individual tents are rustic, yet comfortable. Ideal for the explorer and adventure lover, Xobega combines the best of a water-based safari and “glamping” experience. Your stay will include exquisite jaunts around the periphery of the island on a private boat while watching the sun fall into the palm-fringed horizon.

Xobega Island Camp is unknown Africa. A place where civilisation is a far cry from the wild wonders of this region of Botswana.

Week in Pictures: Picture This…

These are the moments of the week that deserved a second glance, and now deserve to be celebrated as everlasting images of an African afternoon, a dewy morning in the bush, or a breathless moment under the beating sun. The invention of photography has certainly changed our world. Being able to show and demonstrate something beautiful, surreal, indescribable, has become a possibility through the lens. Would you have been able to picture the curved tusks of a wild, 2-tonne, river-dweller, and how would you differentiate hippo tusks from those of an elephant – long and slender, yet cracked and broken? The camera has become an educational tool in schools, a life-saving piece of equipment in hospitals, and an evidence-collector in the life of the wild. For who would believe the beauty Africa holds, based only on a spoken description? This week, in celebration of the camera, we bring you the best wildlife photography of the week – enjoy this little slice of safari…

Tuskers Bush Camp, Kwatale Conservancy, Northern Botswana

Africa on Foot, Klaserie Private Nature Reserve, Greater Kruger

nThambo Tree Camp, Klaserie Private Nature Reserve, Greater Kruger Park

Umkumbe Safari Lodge, Sabi Sand Game Reserve, Greater Kruger Park

Ezulwini Game Lodges, Balule Nature Reserve, Greater Kruger Park

Umkumbe Lion Update : Two Nomadic Males and the Mhangeni Lionesses

We’re inundated with reports of leopard sightings on the Umkumbe traverse, which is no surprise given that the Sabi Sand is a world-renown hotspot for leopards. Leopards are drawn to the area because of the easy access to water, availability of prey and numerous drainage lines. Bordering on the Kruger National Park also means lone leopards wander across in search of potentially new territories. Given the abundance of leopards, you’d assume there’s less of a lion presence. But in the midst of the rosette patterned mayhem, the lions dwell. During the course of the week, the lions of the Sabi Sand graced us with their powerful presence.

We’re still reeling in shock from the death of one of the Sparta females and having bore witness to the showdown of the year (well, thus far), so we were quite content to observe the lions going about their textbook behaviour; which includes anything from sleeping to making kills, mating and patrolling aggressively. And, as luck would have it, this is just what we observed during the course of the week – average lion behaviour! The lion dynamics are by no means boring and have provided rather volatile dynamics as of recently.

During our #livebushfeed session on Wednesday evening, lodge owner Herman fed through a sighting of two unknown male lions relaxing in a dry part of the riverbed. Nomadic males often cross over into new territories in search of females to mate with and prides to take-over. Naturally, a male lion would want their own bloodline and genetics to be continued. The urge to mate is strong and testosterone fuelled males may even engage in infanticide, which sends females back into oestrus and destroys the bloodline of other males.

These two weren’t skittish or fearful of other forces at work, which leads us to believe they might be the offspring or related to other dominant males in the area. Could they be the offspring of the Charleston males? Time will tell.

If spotting the rather king-like lions wasn’t enough, Kyle went on to find the Mhangeni Breakaways (Kambula Pride) just enjoying their surrounds. This sisterhood of lionesses comprises 6 beauties. Don’t be mistaken by their graceful ways, these protective and forceful killers are muscling in on a variety of territories. Ranger Kyle managed to capture a few rare moments with these females while they were own the move.

All in all, a rather peaceful and pleasant lion sighting experience. We’re ready for more drama now though…

Bovids, Pachyderms and the Beauty of the Bushveld

The endless striking hues of the bushveld creates a palette of colour that leaves you yearning for more of the safari lifestyle. Languid days are spent exploring the sometimes arid and occasionally lush bushveld, while nights are spent huddled around campfires under star spangled skies. Angles, texture, reflections, depth and moods can all be captured in a single moment in the wild. Giant pachyderms, sleek predators and overly anxious plains game enjoy the bounty of delights on offer in the thickets. The bushveld holds a torrent of emotion – from the heart-wrenching to heartbreaking, it all unfolds in the ‘veld.

Our videographer creatively captured the beauty of the Klaserie bushveld on camera to showcase the magic that unfolds before you while exploring the safari lifestyle at the nThambo Tree Camp and Africa on Foot traverse. A mix of pachyderms and giant bovids seem to take centre stage in our scenery videos, so we’ve decided to give them the shared starring role they deserve and chat about their differences and similarities.

1. As the golden light of sunset literally drowns the landscape with its shards of yellow, you’ll notice how eagerly the buffalo graze and move around. During the heat of the day, they tend to find respite in shady areas and remain sedentary. When the becomes cooler, they will move around and graze. There is normally a pathfinder that leads the herd to perfect grazing grounds and waterholes. Elephants are similarly active at day and night, but are also more sedentary during the heat of the day. This is the time when you will find them seeking water sources. Both these giant herbivores need daily access to water due to the excessive amount of dry vegetation they ingest on a daily basis.

2. Buffalo are bulk grazers and will mow through an abundance of tall, sweet grasses and shrubs. They clear and open an area for other, more selective herbivores to graze. Elephants have a more selective diet comprising a combination of roots, bark, grasses and fruit. Because of the bulk amount of dry vegetation digested daily by these massive herbivores, they need to drink fairly often. An elephant is estimated to eat up to 136 kg of food per day and only processes half of what it digests!

3. Mud baths are important to both buffalo and elephant. They both have hides that are sparsely populated with hair and thus sensitive to the harsh rays of the sun. The mud pack acts asa natural sun screen, regulates body temperature and repels parasites. When the mud dries on an elephant they will rub against their favourite rubbing post (normally a trunk of a tree) to remove the mud, which in turn removes parasites.

4. Elephants and buffalo have strong bonds between females in their herd. Elephants live in a matriarchal society where all the females help to raise the calves – theirs is a very rigid and structured social fabric. Bulls form loose associations with one another and will rejoin the herds if a female is on heat. With buffalo, there are many cows and sub-adults of varying ages. Males also tend to form bachelor herds that return for breeding season. The past-your-prime buffalo bulls are completely disassociated from the herd and they’re referred to as “Dagga Boys” because they spend their time wallowing in mud holes (Dagga means mud).

5. The major difference between elephants and buffalo is that the latter is one of the most dangerous of the big five. While elephants outwardly display their displeasure, a buffalo will never show you its emotions. You have time to retreat and are aware of the situation when confronted with an elephant, but a buffalo will give zero warning sign before charging!

Bundu Bashing: Leopard on the prowl!

Bundu the young male leopard has made a real show of himself in the Klaserie and has soared into position of crowd favourite after his latest antics saw him chasing birds in in a marula tree. Over the last couple of days, this entertaining and confident leopard has offered up some unforgettable game drive sightings at Africa on Foot and nThambo Tree Camp, and yesterday evening our latest encounter involved the strikingly handsome cat prowling through the foliage in perfect golden light. These are what safari memories are made of – what a privilege!

On the weekend, Bundu – who is Ross Dam’s male cub of +-18 months – was seen on a kill with his sister, Saffron. She is a much more timid cat and has kept to the shadows while her brother has never shied away from the public eye. They have always stayed in close proximity to one another and their mother, which is the norm for leopard cubs for the first 2 years of their lives. It is quite astonishing to think that our individual sightings of Saffron can be counted on our fingers, while our sightings of brother, Bundu, have far exceeded our conscious counting!

This past weekend was a real treat, as both leopards were seen on an impala kill, followed by a sighting of Bundu by himself. The relaxed, young male was spotted reclining very comfortably in the natural cradle of a termite mound. Old termite mounds prove to be very useful in the bush, doubling as warthog and aardvark burrows, wild dog dens, snake holes, cheetah outlook posts, and leopard resting spots. It was an absolute treat to watch Bundu emerge from the surrounding thicket, stretch, and flop down into a comfortable curve of the termite mound where he lay and yawned widely, showing us his impressive teeth.

Once again, yesterday afternoon’s game drive produced with another astonishing sighting of Bundu. This young tom was spotted near his location of the previous day – clearly not having had enough of the spotlight! As usual, he was unfazed by us and went about his business with a vehicle-full of amazed and excited Klaserie guests.

The golden light painted Bundu in the most beautiful warmth, and he walked, slinkily, right passed the vehicle, offering up some spectacular photographic opportunities. Just when we thought we couldn’t be any more spoilt, Bundu put on one memorable performance of his (now famous) bird chasing! What a way to end off the afternoon with a remarkable, wild leopard before heading off to sundowners in the bush and embarking on the nocturnal part of the game drive.