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Safari to the Khwai Riverfront from Tuskers Bush Camp

Khwai is a dusty little town on the north-eastern edge of Moremi Game Reserve, set among the winding waterways, floodplains and swamps of the river of the same name. It is a little slice of rural Botswana, full of all the usual trappings: dogs and chickens and small children going to and from school, old men waiting out the heat of the day in the shade of massive trees. Khwai and the areas around it are far from typical.

The really special thing about this area is that water flows here all year round, and so it is a great place to encounter wildlife – particularly in the dry season, which lasts roughly from August until December. Most importantly, though, Khwai is very close to Tuskers Bush Camp. Khwai is an excellent place for a day trip, and a great spot to keep in mind as you plan your onward journey.

Wildlife concentrations in this part of Botswana are absolutely incredible, particularly along the area’s perennial waterways, swamps, wetlands and pools. Huge herds of elephant graze and drink alongside the many hippo pods, innumerable red lechwe, waterbuck, reedbuck, impala and a host of other bird and wildlife species.

These green fingers extending out into the parched landscape of North-western Botswana during the dry season provide an exquisitely beautiful natural setting for the wildlife that abounds here. On the ground they appear as a network of open, grassy floodplains around channels, diligently kept open by the activities of hippo and elephant, lined at the margins with riverine forest, acacia woodland, and mopane forest. They are the region’s life blood, and during the hot dry part of the year their vital importance becomes very obvious.

With little good grazing to be found inland and even less water, ungulates are drawn magnetically to the waters that spill out of the Okavango Delta at Khwai, and where there is an abundance of prey species, predators are sure to follow. In this respect, Khwai does not disappoint.

The area offers up regular leopard sightings, and while I was there recently, the group I was with saw three of them. We also came upon an active hyena den with at least seven very young pups, and spotted two young male lion peering at us from their perch on a termite mound in the early morning gloom on the day of our departure.

Needless to say, the area offers up some excellent birding opportunities too. It is home to breeding populations of wattled crane, and the spectacular yellow-billed and saddle-billed storks. It is bursting with water birds of all descriptions. It is also home to a diverse population of raptor species, and perhaps unsurprisingly, to a strong vulture population too.

This landscape throbs with exciting potential. Constantly surrounded by wildlife, one never knows what one might encounter around the next corner. Khwai offers almost incomparable game-viewing opportunities and, because it is outside Moremi Game Reserve, also offers the option of night drives and even walking safaris for the more adventurous among us.

Of course it is also close enough to Moremi that day trips from Khwai into the heart of the Okavango Delta are a great option if yours will be an extended visit. It is also within an easy half-day drive of Savute, and even closer to Linyanti. The Mababe Depression – another area renowned for incredible wildlife sightings – is about an hour away. This makes Khwai an absolute must as a day trip, and a convenient stopover for self-drive visitors too, especially if you want to ensure that your trip takes in the very best that Botswana has to offer.

Buffalo and Hippo Share Waterhole at Umkumbe

The large aquatic beasts and formidable bovids decided to enjoy a civil drink together at a waterhole close to the Umkumbe property. Renown for their big cat sightings and unique predator activity; the Sabi Sand is a premier reserve classified as a hotspot for wildlife.

Today, we’ve pushed the big cats to the background and have allowed our beautiful buffalo and hippo to take their place in the spotlight. While you may balk at the size of a lion’s jaw and the razor sharp claws of a leopard, you should take a step back when it comes to hippo and buffalo. In these photos we actually have two of the safari world’s most dangerous animals!

Hippos are notoriously territorial creatures and together with crocs and buffalo, have killed more people in Africa than any other animal. They’re moody, aggressive and quick to react. One must never be fooled by their bloated and rather cumbersome appearance – they move quickly and unexpectedly.

Look at how this hippo protects its dam while the buffalo bend down to drink. It seems to sidle up closer to the action! A cacophony of honking sounds would most certainly have taken place if this amphibious creature felt under threat. Another iconic territorial sign is the wide-mouthed display, designed to show onlookers the size of its teeth.

At night, hippos silently emerge from the water to indulge in a bit of foraging. They utilise well-worn pathways and if under threat, they’ll rapidly retreat back to their aquatic domain.

Buffalo are, of course, land dwelling bovids and form part of the big five animals. They have a temperament similar to that of the hippo and are very unpredictable. The old bulls are the ones to watch out for as they have been ousted from their herd and no longer have protection of their kin. They can often be found in bachelor groups at waterholes, spending their days wallowing in mud.

But it’s not only the old bulls that enjoy the mudholes and water. All buffalo need to drink at least once a day because of the copious quantities of dry vegetation they digest throughout the day. They’re bulk grazers and will even digest less palatable grasses and shoots.

The large herds make their way down to waterholes by following one single buffalo called a pathfinder which are those individuals that lead the herd. They’re not always the dominant one in the herd but certainly are responsible for determining the movements of the herd.

Yet another successful day while out on game drive with Umkumbe Safari Lodge. Moments caught on camera by ranger Marius Zeilinga are always memorable.

Learning to Track Wildlife in Botswana at Tuskers Bush Camp

Just after dawn, in the soft morning light, the white sands around Tuskers Bush Camp are firm from the cool night air. It makes the wildlife tracks distinctive, and a walking safari through the bush both exciting and educational.

While walking safaris are limited in the major National Parks in Botswana, in the Moremi East Wilderness Area you are able to get into the bush with a trained tracker. Without the loud rumble of a safari vehicle, you are able to have a much more intimate experience. It enables you to see the land from the perspective of the animals that live in it.

The first observation to make is the direction of the wind, as walking upwind gives you a better chance of finding wildlife before it senses you, and maybe more importantly, does not allow predators to smell you before you see them.

Tracks are everywhere, and going every which way. Just at the watering hole in front of camp we found bat eared fox, African wildcat, lion, giraffe, kudu and elephant tracks, as well as a cobra skin hanging in the brush. However, your tracking guide is able to derive a story of what happened the night before from all the chaos.

Big cats like leopards and lions can retract their claws, whereas hyenas and cheetah cannot, so claw mark impressions can help you distinguish between species. Bird prints hop around everywhere, but you will be able to distinguish the kori bustard by its large size, and the talon imprint which drags on in front of the print. Hoof marks are also common, but you will know you are tracking a zebra, if the front of the print is closed, and you can see two triangle shapes in the back of the print which other hoofed animals do not have.

However, species identification is just stage one. Beyond that, a good tracker can tell the size of the animal from the depth of the print in the sand, and length between the strides. Further, some species like elephants, buffalo and impala males are often solitary, so the presence of a single set of tracks might also help tell the gender of the animal.

Finally, probably the hardest sign to read is the age of the track. It is important to know if the animal just passed by, or was there a while ago. A good tracker can sometimes tell you within hours of when the track was made. This is more of an art based on knowledge passed down through generations of trackers, who then spend a lifetime in the bush.

Many factors can help a tracker make this determination. It is important for the tracker to understand the wind and humidity in the air. This can help them examine even the smallest displacement of granules of sand and make a judgement about how much time it would take them to shift in that way.

Overall, it is a fascinating experience, and while you cannot expect to become a tracker overnight, a couple lessons from a master tracker at Tuskers Bush Camp will certainly take your safari knowledge to the next level.

Rocking for Rhinos Festival

There are over 2000 delegates from around the world currently attending the CITES (CoP17) conference in Sandton, Johannesburg. CITES stands for “Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora” and its aim is to ensure that international trade in wildlife and plants does not bring them to the brink of extinction! It is an international agreement/treaty supported by numerous countries from around the world. The conference runs from 24th September to 5th October and they’re in the process of wrapping everything up.

So, what does this mean for our rhinos? After attending a talk by wildlife expert Colin Bell, it was clear that we needed to put a halt on Swaziland’s proposal to trade rhino horn. We can confirm that Swaziland’s proposal was rejected at CITES CoP17 with quite staggering numbers NOT in favour of the trade. This is the news we’d hoped for, considering that legal trade could never cover the current excessive demand for rhino horn.

Over the past 10 years, we’ve had a recorded a loss of over 6000 rhinos. Lauren Saad, together with Ezulwini Game Lodges, continue to contribute to saving Africa’s rhinos. Being fully aware of the rapid decline of the species, Lauren and her team founded Rocking for Rhinos.

What is Rocking for Rhinos? It is a huge two day festival taking place 7th – 8th October, complete with music, exhibitions, food and beverage areas and accommodation (camping and chalets). It is set to take place on the outskirts of Hoedspruit at the Swadini Forever Resort.

Imagine a mini-Woodstock with 15 – 20 bands and DJ’s performing over a two day period to help raise funds to protect rhinos! Click here to buy tickets: Computicket Rocking for Rhinos

So, as with many NGO’s and wildlife conservation organisations, you need to know where your financial contributions end up. Rocking for Rhinos have been fully transparent in this regard and 100% of the profits raised will be used to assist the following organizations and projects: Rhino Task Team ( NPO Number 164-507), Bongi’s Quest children’s book, Black Mambas APU, social upliftment on behalf of Transfrontier Africa, The Bushbabies Environmental Education Awareness Program, Rhino conservation and research in the Balule Nature Reserve and the Rhino Revolution Rhino Orphanage and Hospital.

Follow Rocking for Rhinos on Facebook to find out more about these organisations

We chatted to Lauren from Ezulwini Game Lodges about Rocking for Rhinos. She is the director, event manager and in charge of finance and conservation.

1. When did Rocking for Rhinos first start?

Rocking for Rhinos was formed in January 2012 with extremely motivated, passionate and dedicated people, united by one fundamental issue; the now critical plight of our disappearing Rhino population and the war that must be waged against the poachers and ring leaders that are the direct cause of the demise of this gentle creature.

2. How is Ezulwini Game Lodges involved in the festival?

Ezulwini has been a sponsor of Rocking For Rhinos from the start.

3. What can one expect at Rocking for Rhinos?

Fusing conservation and entertainment, Rocking for Rhinos is a music festival with 100% of the profits of ticket sales going directly back into conservation.

4. How can people contribute, even if not attending to festival?

They can buy tickets even if not attending, or donate directly from our Facebook page.

5. How do we know Rocking for Rhinos is a legitimate organisation?

Rocking for Rhinos is a registered Non-Profit Organisation (NPO number 137-976) working towards not only the abolishment of rhino poaching, but also the protection and management of the remaining rhino population.

We are audited and all our beneficiaries, Protrack Rhino Task Team, Black Mamba Anti-poaching unit and Bongi’s Quest, can be contacted to validate our legitimacy from our start in 2012.

Week in Pics: A Different Perspective on the Wild

There’s been a gentle patter of rain falling onto the thirsty grounds of the Kruger. Although not enough to make a major dent in the arid bushveld, some rain is better than nothing. And it appears that a wealth of wildlife have emerged from the thickets to display a set of unique behaviours. This week we’ve seen interesting events unfolding, some tragic and some heartwarming.

Of course, our Botswana camps are also in dire need of rains – apart from our Okavango Delta camps which thrive on the banks of the Delta’s channel.

Our photos this week are a collection of different perspectives on the wild – we do hope you have a fantastic weekend, wherever you are!

nThambo Tree Camp and Africa on Foot in Klaserie Private Nature Reserve

With the sudden passing of the Ross Pride Breakaway’s cub, there was a rather gloomy atmosphere at the Klaserie camps. But, the wild being the wild, is a tough and unforgivable place. To compensate for the rather heartbreaking news, nature has rewarded rangers with a handful of unique and exceptional sightings!

Ross Dam the leopardess and her cubs were seen, the lionesses feasting on a kill were spotted, a clan of 15 wild dogs were observed engaging in a noisy ceremonious greeting and the Hercules Pride returned to their new kingdom. The Mapoza males were spotted enjoying a buffalo kill, close to the camps. One of the Ross females has a personality clash with one of the Mapoza’s, so it’s always interesting to watch.

Rhulani, one of the dominant female leopards of the area has been lying low since November last year. Lo and behold, she graced us with her presence two nights ago.

Oh, and last night a pack of very noisy hyenas decided to steal parts of a carcass from the notorious Hercules Pride. Their high-pitched cackles and endless vocalisations had guests in fits of laughter!

Umkumbe Safari Lodge in Sabi Sand

A second unidentified leopard was found on the Umkumbe traverse and this time it was a male. While it’s always great to see territories expanding and the influx of newcomers, we wonder about the history of these felines.

The unidentified male was seen with a recent reedbuck kill, dragging it into an area for safekeeping. When the hyenas arrived, we’re sure that he would have dragged it up a tree somewhere, out of reach. Another leopard in the limelight this week is White Dam – her presence is always welcome. What a pretty looking leopardess!

The Charleston males were seen, yet again. They seemed to be enjoying their own company under the shade of tree indulging in a bit of daytime lethargy. They eventually got up to join the southern lioness for a quick drink at a neighbouring waterhole.

The birds are about in full force and the plains game are enjoying feeding on the Umkumbe lawns. With the dry vegetation, the lawns are providing the much needed succulent grasses.

Ezulwini River Lodge and Ezulwini Billy’s Lodge

The most exciting event of the week was the thunder, lightning and hint of rain to descend upon the Balule Nature Reserve. Rangers and animals rejoiced, but the rains weren’t around for long! The lion activity in the Balule Nature Reserve is heating up. There are new cubs stashed somewhere close to River Lodge. This week saw sightings of the River Pride lionesses, Duma’s Pride and of course, the Mohlabetsi males who no doubt sired the cubs. Ezulwini certainly haven’t been shy with their lion sightings.

Chavaluthu, the male leopard, was spotted aggressively patrolling and scent marking his turf after the rains washed away his territorial markings.

The birds of prey most are circulating the skies above and rangers managed to spot a proud and powerful martial eagle just the other day.

Elephants have been frequenting the grounds at the lodge and are enjoying drinking from the lodge’s swimming pools.

Botswana : Xobega Island Camp

En route to Xobega Island Camp you’ll enjoy a day trip through the Moremi Game Reserve, which boasts a high concentration of game. Warwick, one of our bloggers, managed to see leopard, lion and a hyena cub.

Balule Lion Catch Up: Intertwining of Prides

The splintered prides, the coalitions and the lone rangers of the lion world all lead colourfully intertwined lives. Whether it be a showdown between testosterone fuelled sub-adults fighting for dominance or the consistent mating with females from various prides; one thing is for certain, the lion sightings and dynamics in the Balule are never dull.

About two weeks we updated you about the lions of the Balule, a big cat report with the central focus being the burgeoning Mohlabetsi Coalition of four males. While they’re still seen as a central force on the Ezulwini turf, we’ve enjoyed much more of a variety of lion sightings than we did two weeks ago. Duma’s Pride and the River Pride have “crawled out of the woodwork” and it appears there might be cubs stashed away somewhere or safekeeping.

Of course, the Mohlabetsi males sprinkle themselves across all of our lion sightings – especially the older male who is definitely sewing his wild oats. He more than likely sired the cubs – which haven’t been seen yet. Lodge manager Jochen Van de Perre spends much of his time observing and photographing the antics of Ezulwini Game Lodges’ lion prides. With his feedback, documentation and passion for lions we’re able to share our stories with you. Here is Jochen’s update from the past few days. Without further ado, let’s play Balule lion catch-up!

Mohlabetsi coalition of four males and River Pride lionesses

The evening game drive started off with a twist! Rangers found two females on a buffalo kill early in the early part of the evening – one of the females was definitely one of the pride elders from the River Pride. Her distinct torn ear and bad eye made her instantly recognizable.

She was clearly lactating which can mean one thing only – there are cubs stashed in the thickets somewhere! Tracks around littered around the area indicated plenty of adults in the vicinity but in between their prints were the smallest little paw prints we’ve seen to date! The next few weeks are certainly going to be an eye opener.

Rangers also found the dominant coalition of four males enjoying their own buffalo kill. They spent most of the time sleeping deep within the vegetation, but the younger of the boys wandered into the open. One of these males is responsible for the Balule’s new cubs.

River Pride lionesses close to the back of Ezulwini River Lodge

The two lionesses were seen at the back of River Lodge at night. The lactating lionesses very hurriedly scurried off into the bush. Rangers are wondering if she’s stashed her cubs in a drainage line closeby to the lodge! The other lioness roared consistently in an effort to contact the rest of the pride. Depending on the age of the cubs, rangers will keep a safe distance from the area where to cubs are stashed, so as not to put pressure on the lioness.

Duma’s Pride lioness mating with older Mohlabetsi coalition male

The older male from the coalition, the one of the long blond locks is clearly sewing his wild oats. As the evening game drive drew to a close, this male was seen mating with a lioness from Duma’s Pride!

Duma’s Pride of lions

Duma’s Pride appear to be a lot more relaxed than usual. 5 lionesses were seen just relaxing in the shade and conserving their energy for their nocturnal activities. There were 2 older and 3 younger lionesses. One of the older ones was missing, but then again she was seen mating the night before!

Bellies Full of Buffalo for Mapoza and Breakaway Lions

This morning’s game drive at nThambo Tree Camp was a spectacular affair of wildlife, and we reckon the highlight of the safari was seeing the Mapoza male lions with the Ross Breakaway lionesses feeding on a fresh buffalo kill! These well known females were on the social media news most recently when they lost a newborn cub to a buffalo stampede – an unfortunate part of nature – and the Mapoza males have featured regularly on the blog over the last several months as they continue to dominate this area of the Klaserie.

Today, we found the Breakaways and the Mapozas arguing over a buffalo kill, which must have been made in the early hours of the morning. It is well known that these two pairs of lions don’t get along all the time. In the past, we’ve seen brutal fights break out between the males and the females, particularly at the location of a kill. One of the Breakaway females really doesn’t like the males and she makes sure she keeps her distance when they are around. The second Breakaway lioness is quite comfortable in the Mapozas’ presence, and we got to watch her feasting away on the kill while both Mapozas lay in separate patches of shade nearby.

Photographer, Em Gatland, is back at nThambo and Africa on Foot, getting her fix of safari, and providing us with some epic wildlife shots. This morning, Em got a close up of the lioness feeding on the carcass, while one of the Mapozas lay just to the right of our position. Em snapped away, capturing some breath-taking shots while she described why she likes following the stories of these lions on social media.

Soon, the female left the carcass and started moving towards shade, while the handsome Mapoza male got up and followed her. The pair of them settled down nicely, while the male marked the territory around them. He then proceeded to show us all his teeth as he performed the Flehmen Grimace. Fantastic morning on safari, spent with these famous lions!

Cheetah Casually Strolls into nThambo Tree Camp

The cheetah is a slender diurnal cat with a placid nature that enjoys a lifestyle of lone wandering. Possessing the gracefulness of a gazelle and accurate weapon like kill tactics, this big cat sprints at the speed the light; which makes it one of the most sought after cats to see while on safari.

They hunt during the cooler hours of the day while it’s still light and spend the blazing hot hours of the day conserving their energy. Cheetah can often be found sleeping on elevated areas – this gives them the best vantage point of their surrounds. Due to their mottled colouring that closely resembles the tan and brown hues of the bushveld, they can be tricky to spot. If you were a guest at nThambo Tree Camp over the past couple of days, you needn’t have even bothered searching for this majestic cat.

Why on earth would we say that? Well…A lone cheetah, who we suspect is female, came sauntering through the camp. A big cat sighting inside camp!

This youngster weaved her way through the stilts of the wooden chalet treehouses and then settled down to have a bit of a rest. Nadia, the camp manager, was the first to spot this youngster who appeared to casually approach nThambo Tree Camp’s deck and swimming pool area. This close-up sighting of a cheetah in camp left guests with a lifetime of memories. When will you ever get to sit on a deck with a drink in hand and observe a cheetah?!

With all the commotion surrounding this sighting, the Africa on Foot guests were summoned with immediate effect. At least nThambo’s sister camp managed to witness yet another big cat sighting!

This isn’t the first time a cheetah has visited camp. The area surrounding the wooden chalets clearly has plenty of shade and elevated mounds for this cat. And by the way, the stairs leading up into your treehouse accommodation on stilts have a gate, which safeguards against any curious predators.

Did you know? Cheetah don’t possess the mammoth strength of lions and are not agile powerhouses like leopards. Thus, these cats are constantly surveying their surroundings for potential danger. A cheetah’s strength is its speed – it can reach up to 110 km per hour. Its long tail acts as a rudder and helps to balance the body when groundbreaking speeds are reached. Cheetah will hunt when other cats generally don’t. They cannot afford the competition for food and are weak when it comes to defending themselves against stronger predators.

So, we’ve noted that nThambo Tree Camp has plenty of pachyderms drinking from their swimming pool and now they have cheetahs strolling through their camp. Even if you choose to enjoy a lazy morning in the lounge at camp, you’re bound to enjoy a wealth of wildlife sightings!

The Hunting Elite: African Wild Dogs 4 Kills in 1 Morning

Things have been undoubtedly exciting in the Klaserie over the last 24 hours; sightings that have set our souls on fire, including leopard and cubs, lionesses, a cheetah, and a pack of 15 wild dogs! Not only were these dogs viewed on foot by guests on a walking safari at Africa on Foot, but they were hunting, and what’s more is that they proceeded to make 4 kills during the morning activities, one of which was witnessed by guests.

These lean, mean, hunting machines are excellent predators, and when they begin to chase an animal down, they have an 80% chance of succeeding in making the kill. Lions have not even a 20% success rate when hunting, showing us just how elite these painted wolves are. This morning’s sighting began with a walking safari that left Africa on Foot, and a game drive departing from nThambo Tree Camp, located only 2km away. Greg and Enoch walked their guests passed the camp treehouse and soon spotted the characteristic white-tipped tail of the wild dogs. The dogs were initially relaxed, and soon became alert, engaging in their classic pre-hunting ritual. They twittered and chattered with one another before starting to pick up the pace and begin moving through the bush.

Guides led their guests after the pack for about 100m, keeping +-60m distance behind them. All of a sudden, a duiker (small, solitary antelope) emerges from the bush and catches the attention of the pack. They make chase and the Africa on Foot group picks up the pace to try and keep visual, and soon, the unmistakable sound of a duiker losing the fight rings through the bush. The wild dogs have made their kill!

Greg and Enoch approach slowly and position themselves carefully to watch the dogs in their feasting frenzy – a once-in-a-lifetime moment for guests visiting the South African wild. The group sat in silence and watched the 15 dogs (including 5 pups) feed on the duiker. Then, the sound of warthogs clashing their tusks together alerts the dogs and they – full of energy – dart through the bush in the direction of the sound. Thinking this is another opportunity to witness a wild dog kill in action, Greg and Enoch lead their guests carefully through the bush, but alas, the dogs returned to the duiker kill without making an attempt at the warthogs.

After this unbeatable start to the day, the group continued with their walking safari and discovered the wonders of the wild, including a fantastic sighting of elephants on top of a termite mound. During the walk, the wild dogs could be heard making another 2 kills, and a final total of 4 was recorded for the morning. Before the end of the walk, the news came through on the radio that a cheetah was chilling out at nThambo Tree Camp’s swimming pool! What a morning out in the Klaserie at the home of South Africa’s walking safaris!

Portraits of the Charleston Male Lions at Umkumbe

There is no denying it, these two male lions have a breathtaking effect on their admirers. Two magnificent lions with an incredible bond, handsome dark manes, and a growing family with the Southern Pride females, with whom they have a number of cubs. Little mention needs to be made of one of the males’ dangling canines: this has been a highlight of the Sabi Sand lions’ fan club for almost a year now! Recently we’ve been lucky enough to admire these bushveld warriors as they relaxed on the Umkumbe Safari Lodge traverse before moving off to meet up with the the Southern Pride.

The story behind the one Charleston’s tooth began nearly a year ago when he was kicked in the jaw by a giraffe during a hunt (bound to do some serious damage), and a subsequent fight with other lions caused the tooth to become completely dislodged. It looks (and probably was) very uncomfortable, but we have assured concerned followers that he is clearly not showing signs of suffering. In fact, it has been said that he looks stronger and in better condition than his coalition partner! The general thinking is that the tooth will finally become detached during feeding or fighting, but so far it has hung in there. He is instantly recognisable and has become a real sensation since the incident, and many people have been of the opinion that this awkward looking injury and the lack of a fourth canine would hinder his ability to thrive as a dominant male lion in his territory, but as always, nature has proved just how adaptable it is!

Enjoy this gallery of the Umkumbe rangers’ most recent captures of the Charleston males seen during game drive: Portraits of these Sabi Sand lion kings, in all their wild glory!