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Chapter 1 : The Discovery of Margaret’s Den and the Hyena Cubs

While Rogan and Gem were out on their routine morning drive in the Klaserie exploring the thickets for felines, they came across an active hyena den. Stumbling heavyset cubs came tumbling out of the den, rewarding “Rogem” with a glimpse into the world of hyenas. A somewhat excited Rogan (he’s naturally an excitable fella) sent news our way about this thriving den site, ensuring that it’s on our radar. The den is known as “Margaret’s Den”. There is clearly an alpha female of the clan, who is also the bearer of beautiful cubs. The community den, which is a large termite mound, appears to be home for a number of cubs born from a few females. In the next few days we’ll share a series of videos created by Rogan, which journey from the first sighting of a juvenile through to the sneak peek of a baby and beyond.

Interestingly enough, the strong and dominant name Margaret is derived from the ancient Saint Margaret, the patron of expectant mothers. It appears that this communal khaya is the place to see hyena cubs of varying ages engaging in play and aggressive behaviour synonymous with these bone-crushing youngsters.

Rogan and Gem’s initial drive led to a sighting of a few youngsters, and the days following their initial sighting they were rewarded with sightings of even younger cubs! Over the coming months we’ll deliver a host of updates about Margaret’s den site and the dynamics in play beneath the intricately built termite mound serving as the cubs’ home for the time-being. There are bound to be a number of stories to emerge from the den area. Our Africa on Foot and nThambo Tree Camp guides will furnish us with information as the weeks pass – keep watching and we’ll keep posting!

Rogan says, “So there was one massive termite mound with what appeared to be 3 entrances. We spotted what seemed to be 4 different moms with cubs of varying ages, some were nursing with their mother and others were older”.

Staking out Margaret’s khaya gives the team an opportunity to observe textbook behaviour of hyenas in action.

Hyenas are intelligent and resourceful, displaying a high level proficiency when it comes to both hunting and scavenging. They’re basically all round successful carnivores. To maintain such a level of skill in such an unforgiving environment, a high level of bravado, aggression and industriousness is needed. Hyena cubs are born with these personality traits in tact and are aggressive from the moment they enter this world. Complete with canines in tact and an eagerness to fight for dominance, cubs are most certainly “born ready”. Despite their readiness for the wild, cubs will remain in the den area for quite sometime and are actually only weaned at about 14 months. The older females are generally spotted outside of the den area, on guard and ready to ward of predators. If you hang around long enough the cubs will eventually emerge.

So that’s chapter 1, Discovering Margaret’s Den and the Hyena Cubs. Stay tuned for Chapter 2 where even more shall be revealed, along with the videos released.

And the upcoming story? We don’t have one just yet – the wild will take care of the narrative.

Week in Pictures : The Wild of Winter

The thing about winter in the Kruger is that it really is prime game viewing time. The sparse bushveld makes it easy to spot game and the lack of rains means that wildlife congregates at waterholes. We know (generally) where to find game – and the bushveld is far easier to scan for signs of life during this drier season. Over the past two weeks we’ve spotted a variety of happenings in the bush, with no particular dominant theme. We trust you’ll enjoy our general catch-up and images from our recent Week in Pictures.

Africa on Foot and nThambo Tree Camp

The past two weeks we’ve enjoyed the occasional sighting of Nyeleti. She’s been somewhat elusive, but this has created space for other leopards to creep out from the bushveld – most notably an unknown male and another young leopardess. The male leopard’s tracks were seen side-by-side with a female’s tracks, which led to plenty of speculation about their origin. There is a theory that the male is Nyeleti’s suitor ! As for the unknown skittish young leopardess, there’s even more conjuncture that it’s the Sunset Dam cub.

Our very own tree-climbing lioness was spotted again, in the same area where she likes to climb trees. Guide JC says that she is a lone lioness that appears to be doing quite well on her own. She’s actually the same cat that was filmed growling at a clan of hyena a few weeks back. The Mbiri boys were also spotted, just relaxing on the dam wall at the waterhole. But in true Mbiri style, the lions wandered off into the thickets.

In other cat news, both a male and female cheetah were seen in the Klaserie in separate sightings. The cheetah sighting really elevated the big cat sightings of the Klaserie !

The latest development is an exciting one and we’ll be sure to share the story during the course of next week. Videographer Rogan has spent a bit of time observing a local hyena den site belonging to none other than Margaret the matriarch; an alpha female hyena known in the area. Rogan even managed to catch a glimpse of a young cub that cheekily came out of hiding. The hyena den is definitely one that we’re going to keep you posted about.

A full cat and scavenger week for the Klaserie !

Ezulwini Game Lodges

The guides at Ezulwini tracked and spotted 20 lions on their traverse. Needless to say, the lions were a combination of the Machaton kings, the protective Kudyelas and their entire brood. The cubs are now healthy juveniles, and Angele is often afforded opportunities to photograph this mega-pride and its offspring. But you know what she hasn’t managed to photograph just yet? The new litter of little lion cubs ! When they’re ready to be introduced to the wild, we’re pretty sure Angele will stumble across a moment or two to snap a few images of the latest cubs.

The lions weren’t the only predators to dominate the sightings log. In an interesting turn of events, the team noticed a pack of wild dogs darting and dashing about. We’re in the midst of the dog’s denning period, which potentially means an increase in sightings.

On the scavenger front, the standard bone-crushing hefty hyenas seem to be in abundance. A clan was spotted feasting on the remnants of a giraffe leg. No doubt a stolen meal!

Hippos, elephants and buffalo are still found in high concentrations on the traverse.

Leopards remain somewhat elusive these past 2 weeks, but the team did enjoy a sighting of a skittish unknown leopard.

Umkumbe Safari Lodge

This week, Umkumbe reinforces its reputation as being “leopard central” with its reports of N’weti sightings. Nweti has come out of the shadows during recent game drives, providing guests with prolific sightings. Couple with the leopard sightings there have been sightings of serval, civet and even an unknown leopard eating a civet!

About a week ago the entire Kambula Pride strutted past the lodge – a fantastic sighting that left guests with a few memorable safari moments.

Chacma Bush Camp

The highlight over the past two weeks for Chacma Bush Camp has, without a doubt, been the rare sighting of a wild dog swimming after its prey. A young kudu met its untimely fate at the hands of a pack of wild dogs. A noteworthy sighting for the books! The leopard sightings within the Maseke are on the increase, and recent Wilderness Trails guests enjoyed two sightings of a leopard within the area. Other than that the normal beasts, bovids and birds continue to provide exceptional sightings.

Game Drives at Umkumbe : A Visual Journey with Our Safari Guides

Our highly-qualified guides at Umkumbe Safari Lodge spend months observing the natural behaviour of wildlife in the Sabi Sand, a haven for predators. The khaki-clad crew spend days eagerly tracking lion prides, attempting to predict their next move. Their arsenal of knowledge about the wild is eagerly shared with guests that arrive at the lodge thinking they’re just here to view game. Truth is, guests walk away with so much more just a game viewing experience. With Umkumbe, it’s not only about photographing and looking at general game, birds and predators; but it’s also of paramount importance to educate guests about the gentle harmony within the wild and how everything is intertwined; from the heart-wrenching to the heartbreaking. The ‘veld is a place where you learn, feel, experience and absorb.

Umkumbe guests walk away from their safari experience having learnt unique facts about the wild. My first safari experience at Umkumbe – many years back – I learnt why a hyena’s faeces eventually turns white after time. I learnt about herbivore middens and how to determine if the herds were close. I even learnt that a leopard’s scent marks smells a little bit like popcorn (apparently). The team taught me that the vegetation blanketing the earth beneath my feet could be used for various medicinal purposes. I learnt how there are quiet, unspoken messages between trees that “talk”, in particular acacia that release tannins to warn neighbouring trees that the giraffe are approaching. This tannins create an unpalatable dining experience for the giraffe and they eventually move off in search of other trees to conquer. These are things I would never have Googled prior to embarking on a safari and most certainly wouldn’t have looked up in a textbook.

How lucky that these adventurous experiences form part of the daily lives of the team at Umkumbe Safari Lodge? A team so passionate about their place in the Umkumbe family and the wild surrounds. Guides and trackers have relocated black mambas, chased leopard out of the lodge grounds and have plenty of stories to regale about the this part of the Greater Kruger. The pool deck is a firm favourite with guests, who love to chill on the deck chairs, take a dip in the spalsh pool and watch the life unfold on the banks of perennial Sand River. An Umkumbe guide and tracker always has an update to keep us informed and entertained!

While we’re on the topic of Umkumbe guides, we’d like to welcome a new guide to the tight-knit group of wildlife enthusiasts working at the lodge. Waldo started off his new job with a bang, with ample sightings of N’weti the leopard. It’s evident that he has a creative eye for photography and after only being there for a few weeks, he has already sent through a collection of leopard images. It’s crystal clear that he’s found his place in the wild, and we hope to see many more of his images thrown into already awesome images we receive from the team currently guiding at Umkumbe. Today we’re sharing a few of Waldo’s images of N’weti together some of Shaun Atkinson’s images, one of our other talented photographers at Umkumbe Safari Lodge.

Form the primitive to the pretty, Umkumbe offers that authentic and real-life lodge safari experience where the focus is on game viewing and the simple bushveld life.

Wild Dog at Chacma Swims to Catch Prey

May – Sep is the most common time of year to spot rare African wild dogs trotting through Greater Kruger. These nomadic wanderers cover a wide range and rarely remain sedentary in an area, unless its their denning period. Their denning period is generally between May – Sep, a period of time that delivers numerous sightings of wild dogs engaging in behaviour typical of their species. The pack is governed by the alpha male and female, a breeding pair that demands help from the pack to guard and raise their young. This is called co-operative breeding. It is during this time of year that guides and guests report fairly consistent sightings of wild dogs. From ceremonious greeting rituals, to take downs of epic proportions and observing cantering through the wild; the African wild dog sightings certainly vary.

The team at Chacma Bush Camp have been rewarded with quite a few sightings of a pack of wild dogs, but sightings have dwindled over the past few months. The most recent sighting, however, completely astounding both guests and guides. Dogs favour diurnal hunting methods and often seek out potential prey in the mornings and evenings when its cooler. They hunt using a method called coarsing, which means they identify, target and chase prey until the point of exhaustion. Mild trots turn into canters – they truly are the marathon runners of the wild ! It’s not uncommon to see this textbook behaviour in action, but what is uncommon is to see a WILD DOG SWIMMING AFTER ITS PREY.

Here is Cherie Bredenkamp’s account of the events, complete with video and images.

This sighting had many events leading up to it. If we’d taken a different route we would not have been able to witness this amazing hunt.

We were standing next to a tower of giraffe when we heard some baboons alarm calling in the distance. So we automatically thought it could be a lion, leopard or any other predator.

But we also had the choice of a buffalo sighting which was much closer. Therefore we had a decision to make.

We decided on the buffalo first as it was closer and then we would follow up on the alarm calls.

As we were enjoying the buffalo sighting there was another strange sound in the background not too far away from the vehicle. One of the guests quickly asked Ad what that could be. And with no hesitation Ad said “something is dying”.

We left the buffalo and drove off. About 50m away a guest yelled “Wild dogs!” First I thought it was impossible, as we have not seen any wild dogs for a couple of months. But luckily for us it was a pack of three wild dogs busy hunting a young female kudu.

This is a new pack to the area. We have never seen them before.

The kudu launched into the small dam while the wild dogs kept circling her. At last a brave wild dog dove into the dam and started swimming towards the kudu, pushing it into the direction of the other two.

These sightings are quite rare and magnificent to experience but at the same time it can be cruel and insensitive. Therefore our guide Ad asked all the guests if they are willing to stay and witness what was about to happen.
All the guests were quite keen as they understood the upcoming events.

Once the wild dogs got a hold of the kudu it was all down hill from there for the kudu. The wild dogs dragged her out to the side and started feasting.

There was also a small fight amongst the three wild dogs to establish a pecking order.

Guide JC Spots a Tree-climbing Lion in the Klaserie. That’s Right.

One of the major drawcards of Queen Elizabeth National Park in Uganda, Lake Manyara National Park in Tanzania and the famous Serengeti, is the presence of rare tree-climbing lions. Spotting a stocky and powerfully built lion clumsily clambering up a tree, is indeed a unique wildlife sighting. Leopards are our textbook tree-climbers, but lions – not so much. There’s no denying that some lions within prides do climb trees, but overall it’s considered a sighting for the books and certainly one worthy of documentation. The tree-climbing individuals within prides are only seen in less than 5% of documented lion pride observations (stats ref : Discover Wildlife BBC).

There’s no definitive blanket answer as to why lions climb trees. Lions climb small trees for a number of reasons. Clawing your way up a tree might just provide the shade needed from the blistering heat of the plains of East Africa. That’s one reason. Another reason is that lions may also desire an elevated view to scan the landscape for potential prey. Another common school of thought is that a lone lion might retreat upwards if they feel overpowered from a violent skirmish at ground level.

So what do these tree-climbing lions of East Africa have to do with the Greater Kruger? A love for tree-tops ! We noticed a similar behaviour with the lions of East Africa and a lioness within the Kruger. We cast our minds from the open plains of East Africa and travel back to Africa on Foot’s traverse in the Klaserie Private Nature Reserve, where the tree-climbing lioness was spotted by guide JC.

It was the efficient and much loved guide, JC, who broke the news to us about the tree hugging lioness. JC is always in the thick of the action, with his camera poised. Here is his account of the event :

A few mornings ago I returned to an area where an unknown, shy male leopard had secured an impala kill in a knobthorn tree the previous day. Upon arriving, there were five hyenas pacing underneath it. The leopard was nervously adjusting its kill in the tree when it unfortunately dropped it on the ground.

The hyenas cackled with delight while the leopard took the opportunity to leave the area. As we watched the hyenas fight over the remains, I heard impalas alarm calling in the distance. Thinking that we’d get another chance to see the leopard, I followed the sound only to find a lone lioness approaching. She cleverly assessed the situation and quickly climbed a marula tree before the hyenas had a chance to attack. Ultimately, the hyenas lost interest and the lioness descended the tree unharmed.

As it stands, the unknown pride of 6 were actually seen on Friday night, and a few of the Sun Destinations team jumped in the vehicle this morning to track the pride. We’ll let you know the outcome when the on-the-ground ‘veld loving team gets connected.

The Week in Pics : All Creatures Great and Small

Winter is in full swing in the Greater Kruger, and predator sightings have steadily increased. The big cats are always there, but with the thinning out of the bushveld they’ve become easier to locate. Giant water-loving herbivores, graceful general game, powerful lions, sleek leopards and adorable critters have provided plenty of sightings for our guests this week. We trust you’ll enjoy our photographer’s take on the wild.

Umkumbe Safari Lodge had an interesting week, with a highlight being the relocation of a deadly black mamba. A leopard also wandered into the grounds of the lodge which meant guides had to find a way to encourage the leopard to retreat. Never a dull moment in the Sabi Sand !

Africa on Foot and nThambo Tree Camp never disappoint with their somewhat consistent sightings of Nyeleti the leopardess. This week she managed to drag a gigantic impala kill up into a tree. The pride of 6 unknown lions were spotted on three occasions, and the Mbiri males were also spotted. It certainly seems to be a leopard and lion week in the Klaserie !

Chacma Bush Camp wallowed in a sighting of 3 wild dogs killing a kudu calf at a small dam on the traverse. Guests saw the trot, the chase, the coarsing and the take down. Witnessing wild dogs making a kill from start to finish was certainly an unforgettable moment in the wild.

Ezulwini Game Lodges have noticed an increase in elephant herd sightings, and have – yet again – enjoyed sightings of the Kudyela females and cubs.

#GuestSafariReview Mike and Fiona Return to nThambo Tree Camp

Yesterday we shared Mike and Fiona Calrk’s review about Ezulwini Game Lodges in the Balule Nature Reserve. Today we’re sharing Mike and Fiona’s review of nThambo Tree Camp, one of their favourite camps in the Greater Kruger. They’re repeat guests that have become regulars at nThambo, having visited since the camp’s inception.

Here is their #GuestSafariReview

Great to get a quick visit at nThambo on our recent visit to South Africa. We started visiting nThambo when it was first built and try to get back as much as possible, the only trouble now is its so popular, its really difficult to get a booking unless you book in advance. A glowing reference in itself.

However we were lucky enough to squeeze in a 1 night stay into out itinerary. And what a great day it was. In the 1 night we were there we were lucky to see the big 5. A couple arriving had been lucky to see Nyleti, the resident female Leopard just outside camp as they drove in, so we set out looking for her as our sole aim for the drive. Unfortunately she had decided to become elusive!!

So Issac decided we should go looking for lions – the Mbiri males had been seen earlier in the day. To our surprise on our way to relocate the lions we stumbled upon a young female Leopard. She was quite shy to begin with, hiding in the bushes, just giving us that typical shot of an eye and a few spots to photograph. But patience paid off – she became very relaxed and got up in front of us, scent marked a tree and then strolled around for a while. A great sighting.

After she had disappeared back into the bush we continued on to see if we could find the lions – and we did. The 2 majestic Mbiri males walking along the road. They were both a bit battle scarred, fighting to protect their territory and the cubs that they have fathered – both looking in good health. We spent some time with them, as they relaxed on the road, then set of on a mission to find some prey for their evening meal. By that time is was time for our meal too, so we set off back to camp.

Another great visit to nThambo – what more can we say.

#GuestSafariReview Mike and Fiona Find Lions at Ezulwini Game Lodges

Mike and Fiona certainly aren’t strangers to the Greater Kruger. They’ve visited a plethora of camps and lodges within the Lowveld, and always manage to see an array of predators and big game while on safari. These “repeat” guests chose to stay at Ezulwini Game Lodges in the Balule Nature Reserve this time around. It wasn’t their first time and Ezulwini, and the couple are most certainly aware of the recent lion sightings to emerge from the lodge. Did they get a glimpse of the famous Machaton males and their adorable cubs? You’ll have to read their safari review below to find out more!

Here is Mike and Fiona’s guest safari review about Ezulwini Game Lodges :

We visited South Africa in March this year, it was the second time that we had stayed at Ezulwini River Lodge. On our previous visit we treated to some amazing sightings but unfortunately we didn’t get to see any lions – we missed them by one day! This time around, once again we had some amazing sightings, including four different leopards, herds of elephants, hyena and an abundance of other general game.

The highlights this time however were the lions. On our first drive we found one of the Machaton males just lazing on a termite mound, grooming and dozing without a care in the world. The following day we caught up with two of his brothers along with most of the Kudyela pride.

They are the local pride consisting of cubs of varying ages and numerous females. They were drinking from one of the dams right in front of us, before relaxing in the long grass making it impossible to count them all. On our final afternoon drive a call came in that the entire pride were on the move – how exciting. Being the closest vehicle to their location, we were first to arrive and picked just the right spot to watch them move along the road and pass us by – one by one. We counted four adult females, eleven cubs and two of the Machaton males.

Once they had all passed us, we were eager to keep up with them all. It was great to follow them through the bush, watching the adults and cubs interact with each other before they stopped to drink from puddles of water on a rocky outcrop. After quenching their thirst, they all carried on walking away together, eventually disappearing off into the bush where we could no longer follow. We must say, it has to be up there as one of our favourite lion sighting ever (and we have had many over the years). So thanks again to all the team at Ezulwini for the unforgettable experience.

Sent from my iPhone

The Week in Pictures : Youth Day

June 16th in South Africa is Youth Day (and this year it coincides with Father’s Day). Youth Day is a day set aside to think about the brutal events that occurred during the Soweto uprising. The 16th is the day when over 20 000 students took to the streets in protest of inequality and oppression caused by the Apartheid government. There were a number of casualties during the riots, and Youth Day was set aside in remembrance of the lives lost. Youth Day is also a day to empower our youth and encourage independence.

This week our “Week in Pictures” is dedicated to the “youth” of the wild. The young ones that have their freedom and independence ahead of them. The ones that will fight for their place in their wild, and empower themselves with the necessary skills to outlive their competition.

Chacma Bush Camp

The Chacma team enjoyed a sighting of the Maseke Pride ! There were 11 lions in total, comprising 7 cubs and 4 females. Certainly a sighting dominated by the upcoming youth of the Maseke Game Reserve. Cherie Bredenkamp was on hand with her camera to capture the rare moments.

Ezulwini Game Lodges

Ezulwini always surprises us with their unique sightings. And we’re always lucky that Angele is on hand with her camera to capture these rare moments. On one single game drive there appeared to be a massive water party happening in the Balule Nature Reserve. Young elephant calves, a tiny hippo calf and a crocodile all seemed to be enjoying their aquatic environment. When the team left the banks of the waterhole and headed back to the lodge, Angele spotted a hyena and an African wild dog. Overall, the hippo and elephant calves really reinforced our youth theme for today.

Africa on Foot and nThambo Tree Camp

The Klaserie team have recently stumbled across an unknown pride of lions, numbering 5 males and 1 female. This is not the first time the pride have been spotted, and in time we hope to ID them fully. At the moment, the lion dynamics within the Klaserie are complex and guides continuously try to figure out the origins of prides and individuals. The Mbiri boys also seem to be on the Klaserie turf, which clearly means there’s room for a male coalition. There have been plenty of nomadic males exploring areas, and leaving as quickly as they arrive. Apart from lion sightings, Nyeleti the leopardess has also been seen. Then of course, the rest of the wild is making the most of the last of the greenery and enjoying the various water sources within the reserve.

Umkumbe Safari Lodge

Umkumbe have delighted us with their lion sightings, which makes a difference from the standard leopard sightings. The Kambula lionesses were seen with their cubs, right in front of the lodge. Then the Othawa male was spotted with 5 females and 1 cub. Another week of big cat sightings for Umkumbe Safari Lodge !

Lion Pride with Cubs Chase Buffalo in Front of Lodge

The rough knuckle-rap on the door of your safari suite before sunrise elicits mixed emotions. On the one hand you’re excited to uncover the secrets of the Sabi Sand, and stumble across a few Lion Kings at first light. On the other hand, it’s way to early to be civilised and the bed is just too comfortable to bolt upright from your slumber session. Afternoon and evening game drives are way less of a shock to the senses. By 15:30 – 16:00 you’re fully compos mentis and eager to find out what lurks in the depths of the savannah after dark. Let’s face it – evening game drives are far easier on the body! There are times when the predator magic happens right in front of the lodge, and the mountain comes to Mohammed (so to speak). Some of the most noteworthy sightings at Umkumbe Safari Lodge have happened on the banks of the Sand River, the (usually) perennial river that Umkumbe overlooks.

One such noteworthy sighting happened a few days on the sandbank of the river in front of Umkumbe. Guests didn’t have to travel far to see the entire Kambula Pride of lions together with their cubs. The pride were just chilling out, sprawling their bodies in the soft luxurious sand when they were interrupted by a herd of burly bovines.

The cubs are still young and need plenty of protection from the elements. It’s not uncommon for lion cubs to get trampled to death by heavy-hoofed buffalo and lumbering elephants. Not to mention the threat of predators and scavengers. In this instance, the buffalo were hovering and bulk grazing in the area. The pride appeared to fear for the cubs’ safety, so a scuffle ensued. Hurricanes of sand and aggressive behaviour followed after the buffalo approached. The older members of the pride attempted to take down one of the buffalo – a brave move. Not only was there an attempt to frighten off the mafia-looking buffalo with a few scare tactics, but there was also a quick attempt at a take down. Ultimate opportunists !

So, just who are this pride? This is the Kambula Pride. A pride originally consisting of the six Mhangeni breakaway lionesses born in 2013. There are currently 4 adult lionesses; and 9 cubs sired by the Birmingham males. A powerful bloodline. This is not the first time the team have spotted the lionesses. Just a few weeks back the entire pride was seen with the Birmingham leaders.

This entire scene unfolded right in front of the lodge. Can you imagine watching lions, little cubs, and a scuffle with a buffalo herd RIGHT in front of the lodge while you sit with your feet up and a drink in hand?