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#GuestSafariReview : Miriam’s Wildlife Dreams Come True at Umkumbe Safari Lodge

Umkumbe Safari Lodge is one of the most affordable safari lodges in the premier Sabi Sand Game Reserve. It’s a lodge that focuses on game viewing, rather than the frills and spills of high-end safari living. Accommodation is authentic, simple and offers all of the creature comforts from home. Umkumbe is ideally located on the banks of the seasonal Sand River, and enjoys ample sightings of leopards and elephants in front of camp. As a matter of fact, guests often relax in the splash pool and view game from the comfort of the deck. This is Miriam’s second visit to Umkumbe, and we definitely think it won’t be her last. Our Instagram guru, Gemma, reached out to Miriam in an effort to get her feedback.

Here is her #GuestSafariReview of Umkumbe Safari Lodge :

Hello Gemma,

It was actually my second stay at Umkumbe – so in love with this place!

Of course you can use some of the pictures with giving credit. I have had several favourite sightings during my two stays at Umkumbe. Of course the leopards were magnificent. But on the last stay the first night we had an encounter with a HUGE herd of elephants, from tiny babies to a group of bulls following the herd.

It’s been my 4th time in South Africa and I would always come back for the nature, people, game encounters etc.

Let me know if you need any more information.

Best,

Miriam

TIA: This is Africa (on foot)

For a world-class experience in the wilds of the Klaserie, and to view the big five from the vantage of both a game viewer and on foot, head to Sun Destinations’ delightful and aptly named camp, Africa on Foot.

On assignment for a travel publication, this is my first time at Africa on Foot in the Klaserie Private Game Reserve, which shares open borders with the Kruger National Park. On arrival it is immediately clear that the lodge is no different to any other Sun Destinations offering that I’ve been lucky enough to visit. Meaning the camp is immaculate, the earthy architecture blends seamlessly into its lowveld surroundings, the staff are attentive and permanently smiling, and the rooms are just the right level of luxurious.

I have just enough time to drop my bags in one of the five chalets at Africa on Foot, before we head off on an afternoon drive, with charismatic guide JC behind the wheel. ‘What would you guys like to see today?’ he inquires in an American accent. On the game viewer are two Londoners, two kiwis, two Australians, and me. ‘Leopard!’ sounds the chorus in various accents. ‘We saw our resident young leopardess, Nyeleti, just yesterday,’ JC informs us, ‘so hopefully she’s still around. We’ll keep an eye out for tracks.’

As we set off in the cruiser, I sit nearest JC and ask how an American came to be a guide in the South African bush. ‘I worked in finance in Chicago for seventeen years, when one day I decided to make a life change,’ he says. ‘I had never set foot in Africa, but I had always been an outdoorsman in the States, and so the decision was made to come to the other side of the world and do a course in guiding. And after two years, here I am,’ he says with the satisfied grin of a man who clearly loves his job.

The radio suddenly crackles and one of the guides from a neighbouring lodge discloses that they had seen two ndlovu at Jason’s Dam, if we were interested to come have a look. JC confirms, and proceeds to drive a bit faster. Of course, none of the foreigners know what the Zulu message meant, but I get excited at the prospect of seeing elephant.

As we round a thick cluster of mopane, the dam slowly heaves into view, but no elephant. Eagle-eyed JC points to the left: ‘It seems we have a couple of snorkellers,’ he says. I squint, and true enough, just visible above the surface are the tips of two elephant trunks, sticking out of the water like a pair of wrinkled periscopes. Seconds later, one young bull’s head emerges, and then the other. In a playful mood, the first bull stands up out of the water and then falls over with a thunderous splash, while the second bull slaps the surface with his trunk, clearly enjoying himself. We watch the frolicsome spectacle, hardly believing our luck at the sighting. To top it off, the sun starts sinking behind the bushveld horizon in a dramatic show of pinks, providing a truly breathtaking backdrop to the playful scene in the dam. What a welcome to the Klaserie…

With bath time over, and dusk descending, we continue on our way and JC switches on his spotlight. The radio crackles into life again. ‘Ngala’ is the only word I manage to decipher this time, but JC seems to have caught the gist of the location, proceeds to make a U-turn and, once again, accelerates ever so slightly. Again, the foreigners are none the wiser, but I understood just enough to know that we might see some lions – ngala being the Shangaan word for the biggest of the African cats.

Moments later, JC shuts off the engine and points. Someone in the back of the vehicle gasps. Slowly, a tawny figure emerges from the long grass, and then another, not 20 metres from our viewer. Two adolescent brothers are stalking through the yellow grass, and covering ground rather quickly, likely on their way to a hunt. We follow the two lions for a short while, until we lose them in the undergrowth.

On the way back to camp, we see two rhino bulls, a massive Verreaux’s eagle-owl, a black-backed jackal and several hyena. ‘Are game drives always this fruitful around here?’ I ask JC, still astonished at what the bush had served up in a matter of two hours. ‘Not always. We got pretty lucky tonight,’ he says.

Later, back at camp, we sit down to a delicious dinner expertly prepared by the Africa on Foot cooks, before swapping a few stories around a roaring fire in the boma area after dinner. I retire early, and drift off listening to the last sputterings of the fire and the far-off calls of jackal.

The next morning at dawn, a few of us set off into the bush on a walking safari led by JC, who is armed with a high-calibre rifle and a surprising wealth of veld knowledge. Informative and entertaining, he schools our small walking group on various game spoors, trees, birds and more. We don’t see any big game, but just to be on foot in big five territory is exhilarating.

The rest of my time at Africa on Foot was spent much the same way. Eating like a king, swimming and lounging around the brand-new pool and deck (to which elephants frequently come for a drink, I’m informed), being whisked on game drives and breathing in fresh, gamey air on bush walks every morning. I never did get to see Nyeleti, the young leopardess, but that’s all the more reason to return to the Klaserie before long.

The Week in Pictures : Bovids and Pachyderms Share the Limelight

The ‘veld is gradually losing its lush and velvet green appearance, and the duller hues of the winter season seem to be seeping into the carpets of emerald. This week, it’s not the tawny and mottled predators in the spotlight, but rather the bovids and pachyderms. The colossal elephants and buffalo have put on quite a show in all of our reserves, demanding their turn in our “Week in Pictures”. We’re talking massive concentrations of breeding herds jostling in waterholes, stampeding buffalo rolling around in the mud pits and plenty of displays of dominance within herds. The twist in sightings has been remarkable, and a clear indication that a change of season is upon us. With each seasonal change we see a shift in wildlife behaviour. Species that were hiding in the background have suddenly been thrust into the limelight.

Chacma Bush Camp

Maseke Game Reserve’s landscape is hilly and dotted with rocky outcrops. There are plenty of elevated areas giving rise to exceptional views of the low-lying shrubbery punctuated by a variety of trees synonymous with the Lowveld. When the seasons begin their transition, the vegetation changes; and the Maseke terrain becomes a masterpiece. Apart from the obvious beauty of the surrounding landscape, Chacma has enjoyed a wealth of incredible wildlife sightings. The lion prides have come out to play, and seem to be hovering around a few local waterholes. And yes – the elephant herd sightings seemed to have multiplied!

Umkumbe Safari Lodge

The “leopard of the week” award goes to Nweti, a virile and agile young leopard. Coupled with the leopard sightings, the intrepid Sabi Sand team came across the Styx Pride of lions during game drive. The sighting of the hyena and hippo squaring off against each other was also another “sighting win” for Umkumbe.

Africa on Foot and nThambo Tree Camp

The Klaserie is an absolute hotspot for bovids and pachyderms at the moment. High concentrations of elephant and buffalo are stampeding there way through the bushveld while engaging in typical species behaviour. The dams and waterholes are quite full at the moment, which is ideal for these water-loving herbivores. Two days ago the herds were seen at the dam, enjoying plenty of interaction. The lions have been contact calling in the dead of night, but refuse to show their faces. Last night the lions were practically outside the Africa on Foot camp, advertising their presence. It is speculated that the lions are the elusive Mbiri boys but confirmation is still needed. We’re hoping that the team will locate the lions tonight on drive.

Ezulwini Game Lodges

The herbivorous giants are certainly demanding their turn in the spotlight. It’s obviously their time to shine. The Balule Nature Reserve is a neighbouring reserve to the Klaserie Private Nature Reserve, and is also enjoying prolific sightings of elephants and buffalo. And the lions? They’re still there, occasionally gracing the team with their presence! The Kudyelas and cubs were spotted during the course of this week. But they weren’t the only cats spotted while on drive – the leopards cruised out from the shadows, putting on a display for guests and guides.

Dinner Under a Blanket of Stars at Tuskers Bush Camp

As the sun melts into the sky, shades of persimmon fill the quintessential African horizon. There is nothing more hypnotic than the sunset in Botswana, a country home to some of the world’s most spectacular striking scenes of remarkable beauty. Enviably located across 365 000 hectares of rugged wilderness laden with mopane trees, and sandy Kalahari savannah, is the sprawling Kwatale Conservancy. In the heart of this wild terrain is the rustic Tuskers Bush Camp , a classic and true wilderness camp with enough touches of luxury to make guests feel cocooned in comfort. Sunset is a revered time of day, and it’s always taken seriously at Tuskers. The on-the-ground team always makes sure that guests are given the opportunity to make the most of their surrounds. To enhance the true safari experience, eager safari-goers are whisked away into a clearing to indulge in an unforgettable al fresco dining session that takes place under a blanket of stars.

The standard safari activities are a given at Tuskers, but the makeshift bar, safari-style banquet table and roaring campfire in the middle of nowhere offers a different type of activity and unique way of experiencing the wild. Guests will head out on their standard game drive bumble through the bush in search of wildlife. When the temperature drops alongside the sun, you’ll find yourself in a clearing confronted by a small wooden bar. It almost looks like an extension of the gnarled tree, but upon closer inspection you’ll notice it’s very much man-made. Natural enough not to intrude on the environment.

While Teagan was exploring Tuskers and surrounds, she was treated to a delightful bush bar and dinner session. Lanterns clung to the trees and provided the right-type of ambience for sundowners. Bottles of wine, whisky and spirits lined the bar counter, just begging to be opened. While chitter chatter fills the air, the efficient Tuskers team ensures the campfire is crackling away and that obligatory semi-circle of safari chairs is neatly placed around the fire. There’s something primal and back-to-basics about being out in the wild, and it certainly encourages us to connect with nature on a deeper level – drink in hand of course!

The bushveld dinner at Tuskers is designed to make the most of the natural elements. Say goodbye to stuffy enclosed restaurants, and hello to dining under a blanket of stars. The table is set-up under the scintillating night sky, and in true bushveld style, Khaki covered bush chairs surround the table. Meals can be anything from locally braai’ed meat to traditional fare mixed with modern cuisine.

While you’re out dining in the wild, listen out for the grumbling of lions in the distance, the hyenas whooping in the wild and the wise old owls watching out over the bushveld below.

You haven’t enjoyed the full safari experience until you’ve had a taste of what Tuskers has to offer!

Teagan Tracks the Famously Savage Lions of Savuti

A mega-pride of 30 lions in the Savuti region of Chobe National Park were forced to adapt and survive when the Savuti channel dried up and caused mayhem in one of the wildest regions of Africa. The lack of water and succulent abundant greens led to a rapid decline in ungulate population numbers, which drastically affected the supply of food for predators. Combined with the lack of water, was the double-blow of the harsh and unforgiving winters of the Savuti. This mega-pride of lions knew that they had to survive against all odds, so they targeted a species in abundance in Botswana : elephants. And so the elephant killing lions of the Savuti were born out of necessity for survival.

The Savuti is a place of mystery and intrigue; and is known for its fascinating geography. Tectonic plate movement causes erratic flow of water to the Savute Marsh and dried up for some 28 – 30 years causing herbivores great distress, and predators angling for opportunities to feed on whatever prey was readily available. These conditions certainly carved the path for a new type of prey to target – elephants. These grey giants certainly provide enough meat to feed a massive pride of lions, which can sustain them until the next take down.

The Marsh Pride of lions successfully took down an estimated 74 elephants during a 3 year period. A learned behaviour that is woven into the genetics of their offspring, and still observed during the Chobe’s biting and unforgiving winter season. The elephants that were targeted were the young or the weak within the herd. Desperation for food meant that the lions had to evolve, and gain necessary skills to take down prey. The behaviour went against what textbooks teach us about the type of prey that lions hunt. There’s also a massive risk of injury when a lion takes down take down a tusker. There are, of course, isolated cases of lions targeting prey such as hippo, rhino and elephants; but it’s not commonplace.

This is the reason why so many wildlife enthusiasts and filmmakers flock to the Savuti region to observe and document the unique lion behaviour. Two conservationists, Dereck and Beverly Joubert, are leading experts when it comes to the significance of the lions of the Savuti. A history that can be uncovered in their book, Hunting With the Moon: The Lions of Savuti. The lions of Savuti have also appeared in landmark series such as BBC Earth’s ‘Dynasties’ and Animal Planet’s ‘ Big Cat Tales’.

When tumultuous times arise and the easy prey sources are scarce, the offshoots of the Marsh Pride know full well that they are capable of hunting elephants. It’s in their DNA. While Teagan was on assignment at Camp Savuti, she spotted a massive burly male patrolling and advertising his territory. This king was part of the famous Marsh Pride and seemed to be in search of his brother, and older male with a greying mane. It appeared like the ruthless duo were patrolling an area home to a lioness and her cub. The lioness was probably keeping her cub stashed away in a safe area, until it’s ready to be revealed to the rest of the pride. There was even a Natural History vehicle filming the area – proof that the lions of the Savuti are still revered.

The Savuti remains the best place to view this incredible, yet horrifying interaction between two of the big five. It’s gruesome and savage, but entirely necessary for the survival of a top predator. Around Camp Savuti sightings of the bloodline of the Marsh Pride are seen, and it’s fascinating knowing that you’re face-to-face with the infamous brutish lions of the Savuti!

In 2014 when there was flow again, the landscape drew in more herbivores and life as we know it was replenished. The pride spilt up and is now mainly divided into the Northern Pride and the Marsh Pride. Teagan was certainly lucky enough to see these famous lions.

Camp Savuti is a Rare Find in Botswana

Tucked away in a pocket of game viewing paradise in the uncrowded Savuti sector of Chobe National Park, lies the authentic Camp Savuti. Renown for its sightings of big game and predators, in particular wild dog, lions and leopard, Camp Savuti is certainly a place that deserves to be pinned onto your safari travel map. In an effort to reconnect with the Savuti region, we sent the talented Teagan Cunniffe on a trip to the intriguing Savuti region to uncover its wild treasures, and we weren’t disappointed with what both Teagan and the Savuti delivered! Camp Savuti in Botswana really is a rare find.

Larger than life elephants came bumbling past her rustic hideaway of a room, the famous ferocious and indomitable lion prides of the Savuti were seen while out on game drive, and there was prolific birdlife mixed in with a wealth of other sightings.

Teagan says, “my favourite thing about Camp Savuti was the wildlife that came into camp. Animals came right up to tents! The cat experience was also really enjoyable, and we managed to see lions and cheetah. The cats have known territories, so there’s a high chance of seeing cats. The terrain became familiar after a while, which is always comforting”

We’re not surprised at the prolific sightings enjoyed by Teagan. After all, the Savuti is a unique section of the Chobe National Park with a fascinating geography that has led to the region becoming a significant area for game viewing. The Chobe National Park itself has the highest concentration of species of all time, and is actually the third largest park in Botswana. The Savuti area makes up one of the 4 biologically diverse sectors of the park, and is an area of great mystery that has attracted filmmakers for many years. National Geographic filmed “Savage Kingdom” here, and Beverly and Dereck Joubert wrote “Hunting with the Moon : The Lions of Savuti”.

Why does the Savuti channel and Savute Marsh prompt such interest from wildlife enthusiasts? Because it is the home of lions that hunt elephants (the notorious Marsh Pride), and it’s also a region where predators have had to adapt and survive because of unpredictable tectonic plate movements disrupting the flow of the Savuti channel. Let’s unpack this a bit…

The Savute Marsh, an area covering 10,878 km2 in its entirety, had its natural water supply cut due to tectonic plate movement. It’s main water now comes from the erratic Savuti channel which drains from the Linyanti swamps. This is also affected by tectonic movements, and the last time the channel flowed was from 2010 – 2014. Prior to 2010 the channel was dried for almost 28 years.

The Savuti channel dries up for decades and then erratically begins to flow again. At the moment the channel and marsh are completely dry, with the only supply of water coming from the seasonal rains. Savute Marsh is basically now a relic of a large inland lake. When the Savute Marsh dried up decades ago, animal patterns were forced to changed. No longer did lions have abundant herds if antelope to feast on, the herbivores could not survive the lack of greenery. Lions adapted and become fascinating killers, taking down elephants when they could.

Now you know why Teagan was so eager to visit an area that has great importance in many books and documentaries. An opportunity to immerse herself in one of the “greats” of Chobe.

Surrounded by savannah and grasslands, means that Camp Savuti is home to dynamic wildlife. There’s no denying that game drives and bush walks always lead to some kind of spectacular sighting. And when not in hot pursuit of predators, Life at camp offers up absolute tranquility in a peaceful setting.

Camp Savuti is a simple, affordable option within the Chobe National Park, and offers accommodation in 5 individual Meru-style tents built on raised wooden platforms. Each tent has sweeping views of the wild, and comes with its own quaint balcony. Nothing better than relaxing on an elevated area that gives rise to unique vantage points of the wilderness beyond. The bathroom is separated from the main bedroom interior by a dividing canvas curtain that can be fastened back or pulled closed for privacy. There is also a flush toilet and indoor bath. Each unit is such a perfect safari hideaway!

Camp Savuti really is a rare find in Botswana.

The Mother of Week in Pictures

She’s your beacon of strength, best friend, confident, example-setter, counsellor, feeder, and she occasionally likes to lecture you (only occasionally). Who is “she”? She is the woman who plays a pivotal role in your life, be it your mother, your grandmother, a female guardian or caregiver. In South Africa, Sunday the 12th May is Mother’s Day. A day set aside to celebrate the presence of the lionesses of the human world ! This week we’re sharing images of the excellent wildlife mothers out there in the Lowveld and will share a bit of info about our favourite moms of the wild. This blog post is dedicated to all the woman out there who take on a positive parenting role for the younger generation – HAPPY MOTHER’S DAY !

In the wild there are many female species that can be categorised as being excellent mothers. Those that haven’t given birth to their own offspring often play a collective role in the rearing and nurturing of the young. A few of our favourite moms commonly spotted in the wild include :

Leopards : leopard moms take care of their young for roughly 12 – 18 months. She will teach them how to hunt and ensure their skills are up to scratch. Leopards are solitary creatures and eventually the offspring will leave its mother’s side. When this happens, the mother will tolerate the youngster on the periphery of her territory and occasionally share meals.
Elephants : The matriarch of the herd is mighty protective and young calves are protected, nurtured and schooled by all females within the herd. The sub-adult females will teach the younger ones how navigate obstacles and learn how to rear the young within a herd. Females stay within the herd forever and their role is to take care of one another. Herds comprise females, sub-adults (male and females) and calves.
Lionesses : A lioness stashes her litter in a safe and secure den site, far from the prying eyes of predators. She keeps her young away from the pride until they are old enough to bumble out their safe haven and meet their siblings and pride members. Lionesses within the pride often give birth at the same time and engage in communal care. They all care for, protect and feed one another’s young. Lionesses will take care of their young until they are 2 – 3 years old and face plenty of enemies in the wild. Many cubs don’t survive in the wild – they have a high mortality rate.

In 1914 the US declared Mother’s Day as an official holiday, but it began in the US in 1868 when the second Sunday in May was put aside to rejoin families that had been spilt apart during the Civil War. However, the celebration of motherhood can be traced all the way back to the ancient Greeks and Romans who held festivals in honour of mother goddesses. The United Kingdom’s Mother’s Day has a history that dates back to the early Christian festival known as the “Mother Sunday”, which saw Christians in the United Kingdom visiting their “mother church” 4 weeks after Lent. This is why UK celebrates Mother’s Day during March. This day is commonly referred to as Mother’s Day during more modern times, but the original term “Mother’s Day” has its roots entrenched in the US secular holiday. It is now a commercial holiday that is celebrated around the world.

Visual Update from the Karoo’s Roam Private Game Reserve

From meerkat observations to bush dinners, and fitting GPS collars on female cheetah; Roam is certainly making strides in terms of the safari experience and conservation initiatives. We’ve decided to furnish you with a few updates, both written and visual.

The recent introduction of a female cheetah into Roam’s expansive semi-desert landscape, proved to be a highlight within the 5000 hectare reserve. About a year ago, two male cheetah were relocated into terrain where they thrived and roamed free centuries ago. The goal was to introduce a female cheetah as soon as the males became established and comfortable in their new home. Cue the emergence of a feisty feline !

On May 1st the female’s GPS collar was fitted and the boma gate left open for to explore her new domain. The cheetah conservation efforts at Roam are proving to be rather successful. In terms of timelines, everything is going according to plan. The eager team at Roam are hoping to see cubs in the near future!

The meerkat observation requires plenty of patience from onlookers. Hawk-eyes are required to spot the camouflaged sentinels that bolt-up briefly and disappear in a micro second. It’s tricky to photograph the gangs because of their almost neurotic methods of scurrying around. With time and with the team keeping track of their whereabouts, the meerkats will become far easier to see in the wild. Over the past few months sightings have certainly increased and photographer Teagan managed to snap a few photos of the meerkats.

Bird ringing, buffalo observation and general game viewing remain a constant source of entertainment within our reserve. Springbok and giraffe continue to provide consistent sightings. Springbok are synonymous with the Great Karoo and area actually quite a historically significant species. Don will be sure to tell you about the sheer abundance of our national animal and how the herds used to cover the landscape – these migrating antelope were called “trekbokke” . A history lesson best left told by Don around the crackling campfire!

Teagan, Gem and Rogan have all recently been on assignment at Roam Private Game Reserve. During their stay it became abundantly clear that Roam is not only conscious safari experience, but offers all the fun, frills and added extras that one would expect from a Kruger safari experience. There was a bush dinner set-up while Teagan was there, walks in the wilderness, game drives, campfires, sundowner stops, stargazing sessions at the pool and crack-of-dawn coffee sessions.

The folders of images from Roam reinforce the fact that Roam is not your average safari or conservation expedition – it’s an EXPERIENCE. An experience that marries luxury wilderness holidays with the opportunity to give-back. Even the category of “sports” has been covered at Roam – it’s become a unique destination for mountain bikers around the world. Mountain biking, safari and conservation – only at Roam !

The Week in Pictures : Lions in the Limelight

We’ve enjoyed a couple weeks of unique sightings and big cat behaviour across our Kruger camps. The central theme this week is – simply put – lions. There is a marked increase in lion sightings across the board, and guides within certain reserves are trying very hard to pinpoint the origins of splinter prides and small groups of unidentified lions. Of course, the leopards and big game haven’t gone unnoticed; it’s just that they’re not in the spotlight this week. The burly maned beasts have swaggered their way into the limelight ! We haven’t always managed to photograph lions, so today’s “Week in Pictures” is more of an update coupled with the exceptional photos taken while out on drive. Happy weekend !

Ezulwini Game Lodges

We spoke to Angele who furnished us with a quick update from our favourite camp in the Balule Nature Reserve. It appears that guests and guides are still enjoying ample sightings of the Machaton male lions, clearly STILL a dominant force on the Ezulwini traverse. The cubs and their mothers – the Kudyelas – are also seen regularly. Leopards are also cruising around the traverse, making their presence known. The two leopards commonly spotted are Thuli and Faka Nchovela. Angele says, “It is said that Faka has cubs but the den site is still hidden – hopefully we will see them soon”.

The elephant and buffalo herds are back in the area, which has certainly added “bulk” to sightings. Hippos are loving the river waters in front of River Lodge, and can be heard honking and calling while guests relax at the lodge. Impala rams are making quite a racket at the moment – it’s rutting season ! Other than that, there are ample sightings of the smaller creatures such as chameleons, owls, genets and even an African wild cat with kittens.

Umkumbe Safari Lodge

Umkumbe experienced the loss of one of their own – one of their legendary trackers tragically passed away, causing much heartache within the Umkumbe family. Walter will forever be remembered, and will be pleased to know that the team have enjoyed prolific sightings in the week following his death. A gift from Walter from beyond?!

Not only have Umkumbe enjoyed their usual high number of leopard sightings, but the lion sightings have also increased. The Southern Pride were seen during evening drive, and the Styx Pride were also spotted. The Styx Pride appeared to be clambering about on a fallen tree, which provided guests with unique sightings of lions in trees! A stray from the usual lion sightings of lions flopping about in the spears and twists of savannah grasses.

The big cats weren’t the only sightings enjoyed by our khaki-clad Sabi Sand team. Lo and behold, the painted African wild dogs made an appearance. This is the wild dog’s denning period, which should last for roughly 3 months. A period of time when the pack’s are somewhat more sedentary. Hopefully this sighting is an indication that Umkumbe will enjoy further wild dog sightings !

A sighting that deserves mention is that of the southern ground-hornbill. These giant turkey-looking birds with their striking crimson wattle are facing decline in the wild and are currently listed as “vulnerable” by the IUCN.

Africa on Foot and nThambo Tree Camp

The Klaserie camps continue to enjoy a spate of lion sightings, with plenty of discussions and speculations about the various breakaway prides from the River Pride. There are small coalitions, mini-prides and the “normal” River Pride that provide guides with a fun-filled adventure in establishing the origins of the smaller groups. It is believed that these smaller groups all originate from the mega-pride that was once 26 members strong ! Either way, the River Pride are most certainly the dominant pride within the Klaserie.

The highlight to emerge from the week was yet another for the books. A large male leopard with a kudu kill was in the tree enjoying his feast, and 10 minutes later a pride of 7 lions approached the area, circled the tree and were trying to flush out the leopard. Two species of cat in one sighting!

It has to be mentioned that the 3 night mobile walking safari forming part of the Africa on Foot Wilderness Trails experienced a once in a lifetime sighting during the course of last week. Lions walked into camp and were spotted sleeping between tents!

Chacma Bush Camp

The team at Chacma is experiencing plenty of sightings of general game and giant herbivores. There are herds of elephants numbering 60 – 80 individuals, seen almost everyday on game drive. But that’s not all.

We spoke to guide AD for a quick update and he said, “we have around 20 different lion cubs on the reserve, and actually found a new group of cubs just yesterday! There is also another group of lions that we believe had cubs just 2 weeks ago, so they’re still in hiding. We also found male lions mating with females, so hopefully there will be even more cubs soon! There’s also a leopard cub in the reserve which has provided us with sightings.”

#TheSafariLifestyle : The Essence of Ezulwini

Our media team spent time at Ezulwini Game Lodges in the big five Balule Nature Reserve, and decided to capture the essence of the safari lifestyle. The Ezulwini traverse offers abundant sightings of big game and predators, and we’re always quick to spill these once-in-a-lifetime sightings across social media platforms. But there’s another side to Ezulwini that is often neglected in favour of sharing wildlife images (there’s just so much to see!), and that is the atmosphere and personality of the lodge. A safari is an all round experience of the wild and in Swahili actually means “journey”. A journey into the bushveld lifestyle and heart of Africa! We’re talking boma braais with traditional dancing, sundowners, storytelling around campfires, the camaraderie and sampling traditional fare.

Gemma went behind the scenes to photograph a few memorable moments and capture the essence of Ezulwini as part of our #TheSafariLifestyle series. We’ve broken down each occasion into sections to provide you with a visual journey into forgotten aspects of the bushveld lifestyle.

Cuisine at Ezulwini Game Lodges

The food at Ezulwini is simple home cooked fare that caters for a wide variety of dietary requirements. Expect salads, wraps, English breakfasts and game drive snacks. Dinner is a “thing” on safari and is often a protracted affair comprising a traditional braai (barbecue) with sides served outdoors. These boma dinners normally end with a bit of a dance – guests are encouraged to jump up and join in the ceremonious display of dance moves.

Making Friends and Connecting with Guides

You arrive as strangers and leave as friends. There is nothing better than forming tight-knit friendships with people on the same wavelength – you go on game drives with them, share dinners and stories around the campfire. Your guides and trackers are your guardians and educators for the duration of your stay, so it’s natural that you’d form a special bond with the khaki-clad crew.

Quality Time Together

Ezulwini means “Place of Paradise” – and with good reason. There is ample opportunity for couples and friends to spend quality time together and for the die-hard romantics to indulge their endearing side. There are 4 superior suites, which have large wooden decks, plunge pools, and views of the river. One of these superior suites is a honeymoon suite, and the other a family room (Spelati). Grab a bottle of champagne and relax in the plunge pool or on the balcony. There are so many different ways of spending quality time together, and the Ezulwini team can certainly tailor-make a romantic session for their guests.

Meet the Ezulwini Team

We thought we’d share a few smiling faces that are part of the Ezulwini team. Guides, trackers, chefs, and managers – they’re all one big happy family at Ezulwini.