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The Week in Pictures : Catching Up with the Untamed Ones

We’ve experienced a bit of a lull in the Week in Pictures, but certainly not a lull in game viewing. Across the board its been a continuous cycle of predator sightings, unpredicted take downs and rare moments shared with the residents of the Lowveld. Our guides have been busy in the field, leading guests into life-changing sightings, while our photographers have been hiding behind their lenses, capturing exquisite stills from the bushveld. We finally had a rest period between drives, and found the time to collate a bumper album of images combined with a quick catch-up.

Africa on Foot and nThambo Tree Camp enjoyed 24 hours of noteworthy sightings, the fragments of which we’re still enjoying. Friday things were ticking along nicely, and come Monday a flood of insane wildlife reports littered the airwaves. In a space of 24 hours guides at camp spotted 3 cheetah relaxing after a recent kill (their matted bloodied fur was a “dead” giveaway), 6 bloated lions tucking into a massive meaty giraffe, and 15 wild dog puppies huddling together on the road. And these were just the highlights!

Ezulwini Game Lodges is always at the front of the queue when it comes to lion sightings. Just when you become familiar with Ezulwini’s consistent sightings of the Kudyela pride and the Machaton males, things shift. It now appears that the River Pride females have been hanging around River Lodge’s area of the traverse for roughly 2 weeks. The Kudyelas seem to be moving around quite a bit, but they’re still spotted while out on game drive. In other cat news, the Matimba male leopard was also spotted – the leopards certainly didn’t want the lions hogging the limelight.

Chacma Bush Camp really impressed their recent guests with their game drives and personalised service. When one of the guests arrived, the efficient staff knew that it was her birthday and baked a cake for her. They also ensured the welcome area was decorated prior to her arrival. But it wasn’t the cake that stole the show. Herds of elephants jostled down to the waterhole in front of camp, putting on a show for the Rhoda family. And there was a close-up lion sighting of the Maseke pride that came rambling past the vehicle.

Umkumbe Safari Lodge hit the jackpot a few weeks ago when they came across young Ntsumi with her newborn cub. Then – lo and behold – Jade and the team spotted Ntsumi with two little cubs ! Apart from the leopard cub sightings, guests at Umkumbe have been relishing in sundowner set-ups, and just generally loving the unforgettable Umkumbe lifestyle.

Klaserie Lions on a Giraffe Kill : A Portfolio of Images from Em Gatland

We recently wrote a blog post about the prolific predator sightings in the Klaserie over a 24 hour period. If you recall, there was a sighting of 6 unknown lions eagerly tucking into a giraffe kill, 15 wild dog puppies huddling together on the road, and 3 cheetah relaxing after a recent kill.

The lions have been in the area for quite some time, nursing their massive meal. Photographer Em Gatland was quick to arrive on the scene, and spent ages photographing these beasts in various positions around the “dinner table”. The lions have been moving between the waterhole and the carcass, and spent days feasting on the meat – even when the carcass began to rot. Em’s unbelievable images showcase a number of common occurrences at a predator feeding site. There are stills of bones being crunched, flesh being ripped apart, full-bellied lions, close-up portraits of crimson fur in the indigo colour night, and action-packed photos of cats chasing scavengers.

Without further ado, here is Em Gatland’s portfolio of lion images fresh from a giraffe kill.

#GuestSafariReview : nThambo Connected Us to Nature

Our Sun Destinations Instagram queen, Gemma, conducted her usual research on the social media platform to source nThambo Tree Camp images from guests. She came across Zambesie Van den Broeks photos of the Klaserie, which needed sharing. When Gem reached out to Zambesie, she very kindly let us use her images to showcase the wild from a guest’s point of view. She also furnished us with a quick #GuestSafariReview of nThambo Tree Camp. Well done team nThambo !

Hi Gemma!

What a lovely message with all those compliments – so nice reading that! You can use my photos, with pleasure . If you do need others, I still have loads of them.

I decided to visit South Africa as I recently graduated and wanted to make a big trip before starting work life. Of course a safari stay I couldn’t miss during that trip.

nThambo Tree Camp was our favorite because it’s like a small family living together. Besides that, it is the open space (no fence), so you feel more connected with the nature . Waking up and see some giraffes passing by while on the terrace is amazing!

Another highlight for me was seeing a Leopard, so calm and at peace. She was just walking around, so we we’re able to see the Leopard from close-by. But all the other animals are also truly amazing to see. Every game drive is different.

And Ooh, I can’t forget the sunrises and sundowners. They’re so unique. Can’t get enough of them !

24 Hours of Predator Madness in the Klaserie with JC, Rogan, Gem and Jo

The weekend in the Klaserie Private Nature Reserve was a weekend of absolute wildlife mayhem. The team at Africa on Foot and nThambo Tree Camp went from experiencing a steady stream of sightings to an absolute influx of awe-inspiring sightings. The carnivores came out to play, and the team experienced 24 hours of predator sightings. From sightings of 3 cheetah to wild dog puppies and a pride of 6 lions on a kill; the Klaserie is certainly pumping out the sightings. JC and Joanna took videographer Rogan and photographer Gem out on drive and what transpired was something David Attenborough would be proud of.

Unknown Pride of 6 Lions on a Giraffe Kill

This unknown pride of 6 lions have made an appearance on the property before, but this time they decided to REALLY make their presence known by executing a giraffe kill just outside camp. The pride comprises 5 males and 1 female. Initially 3 of the lions (2 males and 1 female) were spotted shredding the giant giraffe, and appeared to have made their way through kilograms of carcass by the time the avid khaki crew spotted the cats. The cats are roughly 2 – 3 years old and guide Joanna speculates that the kill was made a couple days prior to the team discovering the site.

Gem says that by the time they arrived at the feeding zone, the hyenas were already encroaching on the area, and kettles of vultures were circling the skies. The putrid smell of entrails and fast decaying meat appeared to be bringing in a crowd. The notorious clean-up crew didn’t have a reservation at the lion’s restaurant, so they had to wait in the wings until a spot became available; which wasn’t going to be anytime soon. The trio of lions were going to ensure their feasting session continued for a good few more days and spent a considerable amount of time snarling and chasing away the hyenas.

The following morning guide Luke said that the remaining 3 males from the pride joined the trio for a bite to eat. As the carcass began to rot even more, the hyena clans became more prominent. The clans were loping around the base of the trees where the kill was made, still circling and waiting their turn for scraps.

At this stage, guests and the Klaserie crew were treated to sightings of the pride wandering back-and-forth between the waterhole and the carcass to guard their meal from scavengers. The 6 lions were spotted in dribs and drabs, enjoying the last meaty section of the giraffe’s neck. With all the big cat action happening, Rogan had the foresight to put up a camera trap to capture the action. The last time he put up a camera trap, the hyenas crunched it to death, so let’s hope this one remains in tact. Trouble is…he can’t retrieve it just yet ! When the commotion has calmed down and the area is clear, we’ll be sure to deliver a few sneaky pictures of the lions in one of our #CameraTrapTales blog posts.

Photographer Em Gatland got the scoop, and swooped in on the scene faster than a cheetah at full speed (exaggeration). Over the next few days we’ll be sure to deliver a series of mind blowing images from her collection. In the meantime, here are Rogan and Gem’s stills. In the next few days, we’ll also release Rogan’s video for a visual take on the events, alongside Em’s images.

15 African Wild Dog Pups Trotting Down the Road

It’s coming to the end of the wild dog denning period, which means the fluffy pups are ready to leave their den and begin their nomadic lifestyle. They’ll enjoy life with the pack and will be closely watched by the adults. The Klaserie team spotted 15 pups jostling, playing and resting on the Timbavati tarred road. The weather has been quite cold, so the dogs chose the warm tar huddle together and warm up their bodies. Most of the adults in this pack were off hunting – they left an adult behind to “babysit” the young pups, which is typical of these cooperative breeders.

3 Cheetah Spotted After A Recent Kill

Yet another highlight in the world of predators, was the sighting of the 3 cheetah. These 3 cheetah aren’t the same ones that have been seen previously, which makes the sighting that much more intriguing. As a matter of fact, there are abundant cheetah in the reserve at the moment. It appears that this slender group of 3 had just enjoyed a fresh kill. Unfortunately, the team didn’t see the kill in action, but spotting 3 cheetah is reward enough. The vultures were hovering around the area in search of the kill.

#GuestSafariReview : Wild Dogs and Lions at Ezulwini !

The Balule Nature Reserve is tucked away in the Greater Kruger, and is an absolute hotspot for game viewing. The traverse around Ezulwini Game Lodges pulsates with lion pride sightings, with a few dominant kings regularly making an appearance. There’s a constant stream of Kudyela lion cub sightings while out on drive, which certainly delight guests ! Leopards, wild dogs and big game always make an appearance, ensuring eager guests are never disappointed with their Ezulwini safari experience.

Recent guests, Caterina and Hugh, enjoyed an incredible safari experience in the Balule Nature Reserve and managed to take a handful of exceptional wildlife photos. They very kindly let the on-the-ground team share their holiday safari images. During the course of their stay last week at River Lodge, Caterina and Hugh observed wild dogs trotting through the bushveld, with the excited dogs ending off their bush explorations with a well-deserved swimming session.

The matted crimson fur on the dogs’ jowls was a dead giveaway that a recent kill was enjoyed. We are now coming to the end of the wild dog denning period which means the dogs and pups are emerging from the den site to resume their nomadic lifestyle. We’re seeing the dogs scattered around the Lowveld – it really is a fantastic time to be in the Greater Kruger.

The African wild dog isn’t the only carnivore spotted in the Balule Nature Reserve. Guests came face to face with the local lions of Ezulwini, another popular apex predator to spot while on safari.

While casually cruising through the ‘veld in search of the iconic species, the Ezulwini guides and trackers ensured a few moments with elephants and other species.

#GuestSafariReview : Honeymoon at nThambo Tree Camp

While our social media guru was scouring Instagram for posts, she came across images from a guest who recently visited nThambo Tree Camp. The lovely couple visited South Africa for their honeymoon, and clearly enjoyed their romantic safari experience in the Klaserie Private Nature Reserve. They’re so romantic that they even made hearts in the sand from fresh dung. Nothing says “I love you” like a dung heart…

Here is the #GuestSafariReview from the loved up couple, along with their images.

Dear Gem,

We came to South Africa for our honeymoon and had the most wonderful time! The best sighting at Nthambo was when we stood in the middle of a herd of elephants and could actually see their eyelashes and smell them. Being woken up by a roaring lion in at 2:30 in the morning was also quite an experience.

We came to Africa because it is my second home and I just love the atmosphere there! My proposal also took place in South Africa last year.

Many regards from Germany
Laura

The Week in Pictures : Friday Feels and Furry Things !

The Week in Pictures has been in hibernation for the past two weeks, but now it’s time to emerge. The past couple of weeks we’ve enjoyed sightings of a few of Africa’s iconic species, with the lions and leopards in the spotlight yet again. Today we’re going to kick-back, relax and enjoy a few of our favourite images from our creative photographers. The cats bring plenty of fluff and fur to our images, and the water-loving beasts bring plenty of dewy textures to our images. We trust you’ll enjoy this batch of images designed to bring on a few of those Friday feels!

First off, we’d like to give you a brief recap before you scroll down to the stream of images. Our Klaserie Camps enjoyed a few consecutive days of cheetah sightings, and a once off sighting of the lone “tree-climbing” lioness.

Umkumbe spotted the heavyset Nweti leopard just relaxing and enjoying his turf, and enjoyed a unique sighting of a genet tucking into a rodent. There were also a few sightings of the Ntsumi female leopard and newborn cub.

Chacma Bush Camp have enjoyed an influx of elephant sightings and at one stage the herds interrupted a sundowner stop.

The Kudyela cubs continue to provide the emotive and expressive “ahhhh” moments from visitors to Ezulwini Game Lodges.

Umkumbe Safari Lodge

Africa on Foot and nThambo Tree Camp

Chacma Bush Camp

Ezulwini Game Lodges

Everything you need to know about Chimpanzee Trekking in Uganda

Pegged by Lonely Planet as “one of the world’s greatest wildlife experiences” and ranked by Responsible Tourism UK as “one of the most underrated things to do in Uganda” chimpanzee tracking remains one of East Africa’s unsung activities.

Often outshined by gorilla trekking, seeking our closest relative through Uganda’s enchanting swathe of thick equatorial rainforest is just as thrilling an experience. Plus, it costs a fraction of the permit price.

Where can I find Uganda’s chimpanzees?

WWF identifies chimpanzees as a priority species – one of the most ecologically, economically and/or culturally important species on our planet. Uganda is home to the Eastern Chimpanzee (it can also be found in the Central African Republic and DR Congo, Burundi, Rwanda and western Tanzania) and the world population is estimated at anything between 181000 to 256000.

They are the most abundant and widespread of the great apes, but chimps are still classified as ‘Endangered’ on IUCN’s Red List due to the threat of poaching, infectious diseases and habitat loss.

Kibale Forest National Park in Uganda (roughly 300km away from the capital, Kampala) is one of the best and easiest places to see chimpanzees in their natural habitat. Originally gazetted as a forest reserve in 1932, Kibale was upgraded to national park status, and extended southward to form a continuous corridor with the Queen Elizabeth National Park in 1993.

Today, the forest provides protection for over ten primate species (a total of 14 if you take into account us humans) including some 1500 chimps. Boasting such impressive numbers, the highest diversity and density of primates on the entire continent, Kibale easily claims the title as the primate capital of the world.

Just as in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest National Park, at Kibale (pronounced chibale) Forest National Park visitors can join daily tracking walks with experienced Uganda Wildlife Authority Guides. There are two chimpanzee excursions to choose from: a half-day trek, which departs twice a day (at 8am and 2pm) or a full day habituation experience, where you’ll follow a chimp community that is currently undergoing the two-year habituation process.

As a whole, chimpanzee tracking is not as challenging as gorilla tracking because the bush is not as thick, but still be prepared for some brisk marching. Although many beautiful photographs depict chimps lazing about in trees, they sure are speedy on the ground too. Unlike gorillas, who tend to sit and feed, chimps are social creatures that race about the tree tops. Their haunting quarrels, screeches and whooping are sure to stay with you long after the hour in their company is up.

While searching the canopies and forest floors for chimps, ensure you keep an eye out for other precious primates too, such as the red colobus, black-and-white colobus, olive baboons and rare L’Hoest’s monkeys.

Kibale is also host to plenty of other forest wildlife and 70 mammal species in total. Elephants, bush pigs and antelope roam between the 350 recorded tree species. Birders will also delight in the 375 recorded bird species, with specials such as the African grey parrot. It’s also possible to book a birding-specific nature trail with guides at Kibale Forest National Park.

Best time to visit Kibale National Park?

The dry season is generally deemed the best time of year for visiting Uganda. There are two: generally from November to February, and again between June and August. Crater Safari Lodge enjoys a temperature that varies from cool to cold. Climate is mild and temperatures are fairly consistent. On average, day temperatures reach 25°C and at night it drops to 10°C.

What to pack for chimpanzee trekking

Wear your trusty, worn in (and preferably waterproof) hiking kit. The gear you need for tracking chimps is similar to that required for gorilla trekking.

Also read: Our foolproof, tried-and-tested list to use while packing for gorilla trekking.

Wear walking shoes with good grip, suitable for muddy slopes and don’t forget rain gear. Weather in the forests is highly unpredictable. Bring enough drinking water (chimps move quickly and you’ll soon be sweating trying to keep up) and snacks. Carry a pair of binoculars. Chimps like to forage in the highest canopies and binocs will certainly amplify your first glimpses of these fascinating creatures. Also pack insect repellent and long socks to keep the smaller critters at bay.

Where to stay for chimpanzee trekking

Crater Safari Lodge is within close proximity to the acclaimed chimp trekking destination of Kibale National Park in a gorgeous setting. The lodge boasts incredible views of a crater lake and is surrounded by abundant coffee and tea plantations.

Also read: Learning the craft of coffee in Uganda’s scenic Crater Lake district

Chimp trekking, outdoor activities, such as canoeing or hiking, plus numerous cultural activities can be booked during your stay.

Gorilla conservation: beyond the boundaries of Bwindi Impenetrable National Park

Mountain gorillas are one of the world’s rarest wildlife species. According to the World Wildlife Fund, there are as few as 1000 individuals left on planet Earth.

The world’s population of mountain gorillas is split into two. Just over half live in the Virunga Mountains (a range of extinct volcanoes bordering the Democratic Republic of Congo, Rwanda and Uganda). The balance can be found in the Bwindi Impenetrable National Park in Uganda. This mountain gorilla subspecies was first recognised in 1902 and since then, these animals have survived hunting, war, habitat destruction and disease.

Also read: Gorilla Portraits from Trekking in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest

Mountain gorillas do not survive in captivity. Braving the thick forests and misty mountains along the Uganda-Congo-Rwanda border is the only way to see these endangered animals.

How visiting gorillas contributes to conservation

When you visit mountain gorillas in the wild, you are contributing to their survival as creatures of the forest. In the 1970s, there were just 400 mountain gorillas in the whole world. Thanks to escalated interest in the conservation of gorillas in the 80s and 90s, there’s a direct correlation between tourism and protection.

Also read: Our foolproof, tried-and-tested list to use while packing for gorilla trekking.

In fact, in November last year, the Switzerland-based International Union for Conservation of Nature updated mountain gorillas’ status from “critically endangered” to “endangered” when population estimates reached 1000. However, these precious primates are not out of the woods yet.

To ensure sustainability and the full protection of these great apes, there are ways to help promote gorilla conservation after your trek.

Gorilla conservation and community

Conservation goes beyond the boundaries of a national park. For conservation to be effective, everyone (tourists and locals alike) needs to see value in having a thriving ecosystem.

Part of the revenue collected from your gorilla permit is used as salary payment for game and park rangers, guards and tour guides. Many of whom were poachers and hunters in a previous life, making a living from the land. By providing an alternative income, locals are deterred from engaging in anti-conservation activities.

Ecotourism provides environmentally-sensitive employment and promotes community development. Tourists mean money, jobs and a better standard of living for many in Uganda. Gorillas as such have become a vital resource with monetary value worth protecting. According to the WWF, local communities in Uganda earn about US$678000 each year from tourists who come to see mountain gorillas and their annual value to the Ugandan economy is US$1 million per gorilla.

A gorilla tracking trip benefits both wildlife and local communities. Every visitor can support the local economy. Stay in local lodges, hire local operators, participate in local activities, support souvenir-sellers and eat in local establishments. All of these elements better create healthy communities surrounding the national parks.

Hire a porter

It’s not part of the gorilla permit fee, but the porter system supplies extra employment to the surrounding Bwindi community. It works on a rotation system (it’s good and fair) but unemployment is rife, so often the porters only get to work once a month. It costs just $15 to hire a porter. Keep in mind, however, that this amount can sometimes be a porter’s full salary. Tip kindly if they have done a good job.

Drink coffee

Gorilla Conservation Coffee is a social enterprise, which pays a premium price to help coffee farmers who live beside the gorillas of the Bwindi Impenetrable National Park. Supporting the local farmers helps to defend the critically endangered gorillas and their fragile forest habitat. Currently, the Gorilla Conservation Coffee supports 500 farmers through training in sustainable coffee farming and processing. $1.50 per kilo of coffee purchased is donated to help save mountain gorillas. Read more about mountain gorilla conservation on the Conservation Through Public Health website.

Honour the Batwa Tribe

In conjunction with your gorilla trekking safari to Uganda, get to know the story of the Batwa and contribute where you can. The Batwa are Uganda’s most marginalised community and were evicted from their forest home over two decades ago when Bwindi became a national park. Seek out an ethical tour that avoids exploitation of the Batwa. Try the Uganda Wildlife Authority’s Batwa Forest Experience, which was launched in Bwindi in April 2019.

There is express government support for this activity and if you want to undertake the Batwa Forest Experience on the day before or after the gorilla trek, park entry fees for tourists are waived. The trail takes place in the forest and includes demonstrations of various aspects of the Batwa culture, for example, honey collecting.

Also read: The History of Uganda’s Batwa Pygmy Tribe in Bwindi Region

Spread the word

After gorilla tracking, share the experience. Over the past 20 years, tourism has been the most successful tool for protecting gorillas in Uganda, Rwanda and DRC. Tourism has created jobs and generates direct revenue from the sale of goods or provision of services such as guiding, transportation, and more. Spreading the word about gorilla tourism will help to attract tourists and generating further conservation funds.

Where to stay when gorilla trekking in Uganda

Gorilla Safari Lodge has 18 luxurious cottages set in lush, colourful gardens overlooking the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, which is a five-minute stroll away. Memorable touches include complimentary shoe-washing service (you’ll be grateful after all the mud!) and hot water bottles at turn down. Some units (all of them are named after gorilla families or individuals) have a bath and cosy indoor fireplace – ideal after a long day on foot.

Fantastico Sundowner Session at Walkers Bush Villa

The past few days at Walkers Bush Villa in the Timbavati have been a merry-go-round of safari activities, languid luncheons and sublime moments in wild settings. Safari in Swahili – loosely translated – means “journey”. From the culinary to the wildlife, the atmosphere and the service; there are many aspects that ensure an idyllic all round safari experience. In essence, it’s a journey on many levels. The experienced and passionate team at Walkers ensured that the safari experience at the villa lived up to its namesake. Shirell organised and set up everything, Charles was at the helm of the game drives explaining lion pride dynamics, and Christina made sure growling bellies were satisfied. Walkers is ideal for discerning guests, and certainly delivers on its promise of exclusivity and personalised service. Recently, two Italian families descended upon the Villa and most certainly had a fantastico time here in heart of safari kingdom.

A highlight of the stay was the rather enigmatic sundowner set-up. Walkers always brings a touch of elegance and class to their sundowner sessions ! Canvas chairs are neatly placed on the banks of the shimmering dam, perfectly set-up for entertaining waterhole viewing. A table laden with scrumptious snacks tailor-made to guests’ specific dietary requirements rest neatly upon crisp white linen. Bottles of wine, bubbly and drinks-of-choice accompany the snacks. Not much is needed in terms of decor because the wilderness beyond provides the perfect natural beauty. However, the team at Walkers is fond of stepping it up a notch and made sure that touches of luxury shone through with table decor. While the Italians were tucking into sliders and spring rolls, a territorial hippo put on quite a display in the waters of Sunset Dam. Food, drinks and entertainment – Africa style!

While we’re on the topic of food, let’s unpack the culinary delights courtesy of private chef and caterer, Christina Blunden. Food was a dance of modern flavours, with hints of traditional South African cuisine coupled with a few Italian touches. Christina says that she has one motto, which is : “One of my main priorities while on safari is to ensure that my guests leave an extra 5kgs heavier than when they arrived.” A few highlights included the homemade focaccia, chocolate ganache with blueberries, chocolate muffins for morning safari and crunchy spring rolls as part of the sundowner snacks. Buono !

Charles certainly proved his skill as a guide. En route to the spectacular sundowner set-up guests spotted ALL of the big five. Filling the gaps between the big five sightings, there were sightings of general game and a fluttering of bold birdlife. Leading up to this particular sighting, the Italian guests saw a leopard on a kill and a pride of lions on a kill. The hefty Black Dam male made an appearance for guests – it’s always nice to see one of the dominant lions of the area!

Yet another successful, private safari at Walkers Bush Villa!